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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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Somebody should tell those guys about all of the great roosting spots and the fat, easy to catch, pigeons in Manhatten.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Hi all,
Apparently several parties were climbing at Arch Rock this weekend, seemingly unaware of the peregrine closure there (the closure is signed at the beginning of the access trail). At least one party stated that they had checked Supertopo and hadn't seen anything, so here is a bump.
As in previous years, all closure areas will be monitored closely by NPS biologists. The Arch Rock closures will likely be reduced in extent once the peregrines have selected a nest site; if they don't choose to nest at Arch Rock at all, then the closure there will be lifted entirely.
Thanks for respecting Yosemite's amazing falcons during their nesting season.
Starting March 1st the following areas are closed to climbing and slacklining:
•Arch Rock Area - Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
•B.O.L.T. Wall - Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T. Wall. Note: All routes on the Fifi Buttress remain open.
•El Capitan, Southeast Face - Closure includes all big wall routes between and including "South Seas/Pacific Ocean Wall" to the west and "Native Son" to the east. At the base, the first 4 pitches of all routes within this area remain open.
•Glacier Point, east side - East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.
•Half Dome, South Face - Overlooking Little Yosemite Valley. Closure includes all routes from "Autobahn" east to and including "South Face Route."
•Hetch Hetchy - Closed area includes Kolana Rock and Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
•Rhombus Wall - Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of "Super Slide" to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
•The Rostrum - Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Thanks Greg
Also thanks Coz
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Andy Fielding, there is a huge amount of absolutely classic short crack climbing routes that is unaffected, so your pilgrimage will not be much impaired. Arch Rock is a particularly stout little area for a first Yosemite visit, you would be better advised to start at the Cookie, Reed's, or base of El Cap, giving you time to check whether the Arch closure is lifted or reduced, then head down there and get thoroughly trashed by the slippery but world-class cracks.
I for one commend the closely monitored closure approach in Yosemite. There is not an unlimited selection of choice nest areas, even with the miles of rock that occur. Some raptors are fine with some level of disturbance occurring lower than or well to the side of the nest site if this was ongoing at the time of initiating nesting, but I suppose (experts might weigh in) peregrines are not in that category. Anyway, cool bird.
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cleo
Social climber
the canyon below the Ditch!!!!
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Apr 13, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1799122/Yosemite-Seasonal-Closures
Updates from Ben Doyle:
To protect Peregrine Falcons, the following areas are closed to climbing:
Arch Rock-All routes from Anticipation to Grokin and on the upper tear from Cross Country Crack to Juliette's Flake.
The Rostrum-Super Nova Wall and all routes on the Rostrum are closed.
Middle Cathedral-North Buttress, Direct North Buttress, Ho Chi Minh Trail, and the Kat Walk above these routes are closed. At the base, the first 5 pitches of these routes remain open.
Yosemite Point-All routes between and including Yosemite Point Buttress, Southwest Face, and Min-Ne-Ah. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Bolt Wall-All routes closed. Fifi Buttres and The Leaning Tower remain open.
Hetch Hetchy-Wapama Cliff is closed. Kolana Rock is reopened.
Half Dome, South Face-All routes from Autobahn to South Face Route.
These closures will remain in effect until August 1, 2012, or until the chicks fledge and disperse from the area. The avian wildlife biologists recommending these closures are sensitive to climber interests. They work hard to ensure the reproductive success of the falcons, while minimizing the disruption to climbing.
Thanks to the climbing community for cooperation in protecting this magnificent bird!
Ben Doyle, National Park Service, Climbing Management Office.
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cleo
Social climber
the canyon below the Ditch!!!!
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Apr 13, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Note that some areas have also been OPENED since the initial post!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 13, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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I notice that among the 4 Turkey climbs that remain open, there is "Turkey Shoot" and "Turkey Pie"
These birds obviously get no respect, but I guess they aren't endangered as just outside the park I've seen 50 in a pack.
But the turkey's are vegetarians. I think if the mouse population had a voice, they'd say, "Climb up and make Peregrine Falcon Omelets you dirtbags!"
Personally, I think the NPS does a fair and thoughtful job managing the Falcon population.
Much more reasonable in fact that the proposed fence around El Cap meadow
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1798750/Fence-to-built-around-El-Cap-Meadow-Merced-River-Plan
Affirmative action for birds still has a place even though they aren't endangered officially
Peace
Karl
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 13, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Ask the grasshoppers just how "vegetarian" turkeys are.
I wouldn't speculate on sh#t I know nothing about.
As you people say, Just saying.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Apr 14, 2012 - 12:23am PT
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Cheers and good climbing to you Mitchyboy.
Greg
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mitchyboy
Trad climber
escondido california
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Apr 14, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Thanks and good climbing to you. After scaring the chickens away, the least you coulda done was have a decent omlete.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 14, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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Ask the grasshoppers just how "vegetarian" turkeys are.
I wouldn't speculate on sh#t I know nothing about.
As you people say, Just saying.
I stand corrected and humbly apologize
Hoppers get a bad rap and are poorly represented in the route list.
Which begs the question. Is "Hoppy's favorite" closed or not?
Peace
Karl
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Teo
Social climber
CA
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Gstock thx for the posted list, makes it easy to know if we're good to go on a particular route :) for those who find that list useless, there's this crazy feature on your computer, try it: command-F (or control-F)
Was high on salathe a few weeks ago and the falcons bombing around were *so* awesome.
Happy climbing.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jul 16, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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FYI - from today's Yosemite Daily Report:
Modified Opening Date for Climbing Closures in Yosemite
The opening date for low-elevation climbing areas has been modified from August 01, to July 15 based on robust monitoring and analysis of Peregrine Falcon nesting chronologies in Yosemite NP over a 32-year period (1981-2012).
Effective as of July 15, all Peregrine closures EXCEPT MEDLICOTT DOME are lifted, including Arch Rock Area, B.O.L.T. Wall, El Capitan Southwest Face, El Capitan Southeast Face, Glacier Point east side, Half Dome South Face, Kolana Rock, Middle Cathedral Rock, Rhombus Wall, The Rostrum, Wapama Cliff, and Yosemite Point.
Medlicott Dome in Tuolumne is the highest elevation Peregrine nest in the state of California! Whereas young have already successfully fledged from 11 lower elevation sites in Yosemite this year, this Tuolumne nest is about 5 weeks behind the rest. We are monitoring this nest closely and will promptly lift the closure as soon as the juveniles have fledged and left the cliff area.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 16, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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Excellent news!!
Been waiting for the Rostrum to open since spring! Yeah buddy!! Woo HOO!!!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Bump for the yearly closure list.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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What i have noticed thru the years is that now the peregrines are back in the Columbia River Gorge literally by the hundreds, that around Beacon Rock and other crags, is that the woodpeckers and other birds that used to be frequently seen, are not around anymore. Sometimes i will see their remnants left by the peregrines. Why do i get the feeling peregrines have rebounded amazingly, but its now at the expense of the other bird specis?
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Did we ever see a trip report from Jesse?
I like the comments from Coz on this issue. Thanks for posting up!
And the bump....
Erik
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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QITNL- No list at that link. Anyone have a Current list?
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jesse is currently out of the park, so in his absence please note that Yosemite’s seasonal climbing closures to protect nesting peregrines goes into effect, starting today (March 1). The following areas are closed to climbing and slacklining:
Arch Rock Area – Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exceptions: routes west of and including “Later” and northeast of and including “Juliette’s Flake” remain open.
B.O.L.T. Wall – Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T. Wall.
El Capitan, Southeast Face – Closure includes all big wall routes between and including “South Seas/Pacific Ocean Wall” to the west and “Native Son” to the east. At the base, the first 4 pitches of all routes within this area remain open.
El Capitan, Southwest Face – Closure includes all routes between and including “Peter Pan” east to the “Dihedral Wall”.
Hetch Hetchy – Closed area includes Kolana Rock and Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
Medlicott Dome – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including “Shambles” to “Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine”.
Middle Cathedral Rock – Closure includes “North Buttress”, “Direct North Buttress”, “Ho Chi Minh Trail”, and the Kat Walk. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Rhombus Wall – Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of “Super Slide” to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
The Rostrum – Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes “Super Nova” and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The “Jungle Gym” area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
Yosemite Point – Closure includes all routes between and including “Yosemite Point Buttress” and Yosemite Point Southwest Face, “Min-Ne-Ah”. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.
Here’s some additional information on Yosemite’s climbing closures:
1) The Peregrine Falcon is a fully protected species in California and a special status species in Yosemite due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season.
2) Nest sites will be monitored closely by a full-time park service biologist in order to lift closures promptly (last year several closures were lifted by April 9).
3) The initial list of closures apply only to nesting sites that meet at least one of the following criteria: (1) active at least 2 out of the last 4 years; (2) active last year (2012); (3) active 1 out of the last 3 years.
4) The NPS website will be updated throughout the peregrine nesting season (March 1 – July 15) with the most current list of closures: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
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SuperTopo on the Web
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SE Face of El Cap [note that there is a pair on SW Face near Wings of Steel, so there may be some closures nearby]
Let us know!