Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
jlnclimbs
climber
Apple Valley CA
|
|
I recently took a trip to alabama hills.In my mind the place is over bolted.I think there is a safe medium of sport style climbs and runout handdrilled backcountry climbs.They take more time as you get tired placing extra bolts for climbers below the ability level of the lead bolting climbers. I bolted a five bolt slab rope solo after my trip to alabama hills.
Before my trip the same route might have ended up with three bolts.
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
Having climbed at OM several times, the bolts are well spaced and plentiful. All my best to a speedy recovery.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
I agree with the Outer Mongolia bolting, it is bolted on lead from stances. There is definitely a possibility to take bigger falls away from cruxes but any move near the grade limit has a bolt at your waist or better. The last pitch of Dos Chi Chi's comes to mind, Well protected but still enough commitment to give a climb character.
When I think of bolting, I kind of think of zones. Sport climbing, Safe but traditionally bolted and the routes that you climb a few grades below your usual onsight limit. To me, each style is fun, each style is engaging and has use.
Todd, I need some hand drawn topos... I'm on a face climbing binge.
|
|
The Real Mad Dog
Gym climber
Napa, CA
|
|
Maybe there should be a rule. If you don't wear a helmet while lead climbing, you will not be rescued. These rescues can cost over $10,000 just to save an individual climbing irresponsibly.
Mad Dog
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
^^^^
Seriously.... please.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
This seems excessive and ridiculous .
Sure as hell wouldn't seem excessive if you or a loved one took a 50 footer.
Maybe there should be a rule. If you don't wear a helmet while lead climbing, you will not be rescued. These rescues can cost over $10,000 just to save an individual climbing irresponsibly.
Really?
*(sigh)*
I'm pro helmets BTW, but a helmet won't prevent injuries to the other 90% of your body bouncing down a slab.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
What in the world does bolt spacing or helmets have to do with anything when a fixed pin pulled?
Never have understood why these guys still bang a $15 pin in and leave it as an eventual time bomb when a bolt + hanger costs about 1/3 as much.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
|
|
ks
climber
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2012 - 04:45am PT
|
Heard through the grapevine he got a few staples in head and walked out of hospital that night. Apparently clipped the pin then climbed right past the first bold, when trying to reach down to clip it he got in a really awkward position and fell. Luckily someone nearby had medical training and an alert system. Lucky day for everyone.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2012 - 02:33am PT
|
The missing fixed pin has been replaced by a bolt.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!