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Social climber
Feb 14, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
hey there say, ferralfae....

as to this part of your quote:

Anyway, it's a good story of two highly independent climbers/artists/writers/anarchists meeting and ending up married.

a perfect valentine post, for the two of you, and your life adventure, as a team, while being: two, but 'one' in union... :)


Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 15, 2012 - 12:18am PT
I heard many good stories while living in Alaska about various men of the mountains. Doug was one of them. Godspeed Mr. Buchanan.

Boulder climber
Feb 15, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
19 May, 2012 at Mushers Hall in Fairbanks, Alaska
Dear Friends,
The pleasure of your company is requested

For a celebration of the adventures of
Doug Buchanan
magnificent individual and extraordinary spirit.

Mushers Hall
Fairbanks, Alaska
19th and 20th of May 2012

The big party will be the evening of the 19th, which is a Saturday evening.

Potluck, as is presently planned and be sure to bring your very best bottle of wine. Bring your videos, slide shows, photos, and memories. The more Doug stories, the better.

I have reserved the Hall for two days. That way, people who are tenting will have time to gather stuff up, we will have time on Sunday to clean the hall, visit, chat, talk with everyone, and all will be well.

Climb on

Trad climber
Over there
Feb 20, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Man, just came across this today. Had no clue he was ill. RIP Doug and condolences to your friends and family. There is a bit less color now on the Taco Stand.


Social climber
Feb 20, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
hey there say, fletcher... we can hopefully bump this up, around may, too... as a reminder...


Boulder climber
Feb 21, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
Oh, no, your poor wife! One of those "watch this!" guys! :)
You would have loved to see Doug run the ice ridges! :)

Where are you?
There are celebrations in other places, on other dates!
Some are posted over in the guest book on Caring Bridge

I know there is one in Yakima on Memorial Day, North Carolina on May 19, not sure yet of when and where on others.

Climb on!



Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 21, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Definitely a unique poster. God bless him, may he rest in peace now.

I lift my glass and salute him.

Social climber
Feb 21, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
I enjoyed his posts and was sorry to hear of his passing. Let's hope St. Pete didn't try to collect an admission fee.

Maybe that was our February thunderstorm.


Boulder climber
Apr 3, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
This is just a draft announcement, but there won't be many changes.

Have Entirely Too Much Fun!

Join with us to celebrate the life of

Doug Buchanan,

individual extraordinary.

Come celebrate together May 19, 2012-May 20, 2012. Mushers Hall, Fairbanks, Alaska.

Main party event begins at 6:00 PM on the 19th, with toasts, tributes, trip stories, and terrifically outrageous tales.

Climbing videos narrated by Doug. Hoping we can do the Waterman Slide Show, too. In any event, there will be slide shows, videos, and other Doug-related activities around the perimeter of Mushers Hall, inside and outside, depending on the weather, the whim of the individuals, and the celebratory tone of the party. Music is rumored to be planned. Fine wines will flow. Delicious foods will be served.

Bring your favorite stories, slides, photos, videos, tall tales, and memories of outrageous adventures. Bring fine wines, delicious foods, music, and memories.

There is space for tents, room to roam, and lots of activities planned to contribute to everyone having entirely too much fun.

Hang out with us on Sunday at Mushers Hall as well.
Send a PM if you need more info on how to find us, what to bring, etceteras, etceteras (as Doug would type).
Looking forward to seeing any one who can make it.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 27, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Credit: Mighty Hiker
photo not found
Missing photo ID#246091
(A marvellous photo.)

Mountain climber
San Diego
Apr 27, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
I'm sorry I missed the original posting in February.

I enjoyed reading your Alaska view on things.

RIP Doug

Boulder climber
May 4, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
Thank you MIghty HIker.
Thank you for liking one of my favorite photos I took of Doug.
There are going to be slide shows, special videos, for which this event is the premier. This will be the first Founder's Day gathering of the Alaskan Alpine Club, you see. We will be running the Famous Waterman solo of Mount Hunter slide show, too.

I hope you can make it up to Fairbanks for a day or two of the event.

I hope to see many of you there. It is going to be a glorious celebration!

Climb on,

May 6, 2012 - 05:20am PT

Steve Gruhn, the Elizabeth Hawley of Alaska, trolled this article for SCREE recently, for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska newsletter, finally got drunk enough on a Saturday night to post it here, why not, it's really about Doug, he loomed over the whole phase:

Trip Report: 1991 Waterman Grant

Fairbanks. Doug Buchanan, Treasurer of the Alaskan Alpine Club, presided over the interrogation. The officers had to decide whether our party of three merited bestowal of the 1991 Waterman Grant for a "significant winter climb in Alaska." Randy, Paul, and I must have presented a disappointment to Doug: we were more interested in mountaineering than mountaineering freedoms. However, the Waterman Grant seemed also to come with the stipulation that the mountain be given every possible advantage by ensuring that the faculties of the climbers be significantly impaired, and on this latter count, our qualifications were robust. Following various rituals, in which an air of unreality hung over the proceedings like schizophrenia, and in which we were required to sign up for the Club's brainchild, the Mountain Rescue Expense Fund, we were duly awarded the Waterman Grant, supplied with copious tools for impairment (in order to give the mountain every possible advantage), and sent home to begin late-January preparations for the Southwest Rib of Kimball in the style of Johnny.

A week later. Harvey Wheeler, elder of the legendary Wheeler Boys, crop-duster of the Delta Ag. fields, and glacier pilot for eastern Alaska Range mountaineers, was about to crash his Cessna 180 into an icefall. The aircraft was bounding like a snow-machine down the North Fork of the Chistochina Glacier, and Harvey was choosing at the last minute to gun it in a do-or-die effort to lift free from mashed potatoes. Hours earlier, he had been able to land us directly at our basecamp near 6,000 ft., but the plane sagged in the unexpectedly warm snow. Harvey's horror at the prospect of spending the night on the glacier with climbers prompted us to dig him out. Now the plane was gaining power as it taxied lower into oxygen-rich elevations. We saw Harvey's 180 bounce off a hummock, skim the top of some seracs, dip below the icefall… and reappear! Harvey was headed home to Saw Mill Creek, probably swearing off climbers for good this time.

Kimball. We had given the mountain every advantage by obliterating our faculties, including that of memory. The only image that penetrates this sieve of forgetfulness is that of the "coffins," our individual snow-caves at the bivouac the first night, when the moon had turned the mountain into bright Milky Way bars. Turecki's coffin was particularly artistic: dollops of sculpted snow pasted onto the mountainside with arcs of anchor rope threaded through portholes. The next day, Paul led a hard mixed pitch up high. Randy tunneled through the summit cornice on KImball's distinctive summit tower. Descent took us long into the night, in and out of moonlight. We were grateful to wriggle back in to our coffins.

White Noise. After Kimball, we climbed an 8,000 ft. peak on the west side of the cirque, just above basecamp. I remember snow slopes, and a spectacular but easy summit ridge. We made our snow cave halfway up the route an immense chamber to make up for the recent horror of the coffins.
Much later that year, long after the Kimball expedition was over, long after the trip had profoundly changed each one of us due to "Mountain-Caused Refraction of Life-Vector Force Syndrome," I asked Turecki to supply a name for this second mountain we had climbed. But Turecki by then was dazed. It was Spring. He had just come from the warm lake on Mt. Spurr, skiing up there even as it was getting ready to erupt. He reached into his mind for some remembrance of the peak we had climbed back in February. Nothing but snow, static. We had all lost our girlfriends. "White noise," mumbled Turecki.

Skiing to the Richardson Highway via Yeti Pass. The moment of maximum danger undoubtedly came the night we skied down off the snout of the Chistochina Glacier to the gravel flats below. That same morning we had suffered such huge impairment with the tools borrowed from Waterman's file that the psychological flux of the landscape was completely out of control. The crevasses raced perpendicularly under our skis, the rope was a tendril of ectoplasm connecting our thoughts, the one-to-one correspondence between map and territory had become depolarized, rendering speech impossible. We had surrendered every possible advantage to the mountains, and were now at their mercy.
In the descending icefall, Turecki became separated from Randy and me. At the foot of the glacier rested a pocket of super-cooled air; my nostrils informed me the temperature had dropped past forty-five below. Clothes and gear were frozen solid, crammed into packs after a five-day storm at basecamp. We had banked everything upon reaching the miner's cabin at Slate Creek, but now Turecki's light wandered randomly above us across the two-dimensional screen of echoing blackness. By the time he emerged at the cabin into the third dimension, Randy and I had a roaring fire going. (Thank you, whoever suffered our intrusion.)
"Yeti Pass" denotes the corridor between the aligned glaciers, the Canwell and Gakona. Doug once told me that a "heterodyne" exists somewhere in this area and is responsible for some of the spooky phenomena attributed to the Delta/Tok/Glen Allen triangle. I pressed him at length, but he would not reveal what type of signal was involved, only that my suspicions that we had been subtly changed, Randy, Paul, and I, over the course of the expedition, were not unfounded.
A more significant account of Kimball's Southwest Rib would be Benowitz's untold story about his and Bethan's second ascent of the route in the two-thousands, the "blind date" climb. I have evidence to believe a similar life-warping effect like the one experienced during our 1991 Waterman climb had its effect upon them as well.


Social climber
May 6, 2012 - 05:36am PT
hey there, say, feralfae... have been thinking of you...

and of the supertopo and how we meet all manner of folks, in the greatoutdoors, and learn and hear of what they do...

i enjoyed seeing the picture of doug, too--to put the newer face on his name, here.. (had seen one older article that i THINK? had a picture of him, but can't rightly remember--someone shared it here? by a link, years back, though perhaps doug's pic was not in it?...

well-- may all go well for your gathering... will be praying for all the folks...

and as an extra note of support to you:
to you, and all wives, too, that have lost their beloved life-partner, you are not forgotten...

i had a small something, that i may get to in the future, for you... not sure yet, when, though...
god bless...

Boulder climber
May 8, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Thank you for all the kind thoughts, prayers, and comforting words.
I hope you will all share the announcement of the Celebration around with others, too.

Now, I am packing the car for the long drive north, from Montana to Fairbanks. I will be cleaning out our closets and packing things for future Alaskan Alpine Club auctions, for the musuem, for the archives, and some stuff will be coming back to Montana with me.

I hope to see some you you there, and will post a report and links to photos and videos when I get back to Montana in June.
Thank you all.
Climb on,


Social climber
May 21, 2012 - 09:26am PT
hey there say, feralfae....

how did the doug-day, go...

how are you? hope you are well...
sometimes it is hard when the quiet times come, after the
remembrances... was just thinking about you...

god bless...

for others here on supertopo, i just found these, you may have seen them already:

this one is very in-depth:

ALSO, SAY.... these are of doug, right??
did all you all know about these???
thought the climbers and their many adventures would thus
find something in these--

i have not read them,
just posted them now:

well, i will email you and see if you are okay...
wives losing husbands, need hugs, i think...
god bless...

oh yes, i just found out, these ARE doug's stories, at the link above...
(it was also mentioned in the obituaries)...

Social climber
Jun 17, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
hey there all, say...

was trying to email doug's wife...

not sure is she got it, or is not home yet...

does anyone have an email where they have contacted her?
thanks so very much...

god bless...


Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Jun 18, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Sad to hear he passed away, talked to him via email on several occasions ( I was thinking of moving up to fairbanks for school at one point) seemed like a nice guy...

Boulder climber
Jul 2, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
(A beautiful small portrait of Doug has arrived here in Montana. I am only a few days back from Fairbanks and the Celebration, (more on that soon), starting south via the AlCan, being stranded in the Yukon, meeting some great other stranded people, and best of all a climber or two who had rescued themselves by hauling mud over the Campbell Highway, which was, I am fairly certain, actually Closed at the time. Great chaps! Directed them to the Club Web Site, along with Doug's other sites, since one of them will be in Fairbanks for a while soon.)

(I'm updating the link to Doug's stuff since some of his sites have been messed with since his spirit jumped.)

So, anyway, below is a note to a very special person. {{{hugs}}}

"Dear, dear Neebeez,
How very, very kind, caring and talented of you! How delightful to see Doug in one of my favorite photos, with the outdoors he loved around him!

If words were grains of sand, there are not enough in all the oceans and deserts to express my gratitude. How very, very loving of you! Thank you very, very much.

May we post this over on topo? I am sure others would like to see your loving expression honoring Doug. If you do not mind, I would like to hang this in the Headquarters of the Alaskan Alpine Club. Doug is its Founder, and this is the first portrait we will have of him. Thank you more than I can express.


Kýrie, eléison.

ps. Oh, hey! This is neat—one of my best friends lives in your exact same Zip Code. If you are a libertarian, or an anarchist, you should get to know her.

cc: SuperTopo thread

Social climber
Jul 2, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
hey there say, feralfea!!! i am so happy you got it and it was not broken!
wished i could do it in oil, but i wanted it to 'hug' you, after all the immediate comfort of friends passes by, and life resumes onward, after your celebration (so i did it in fast-dry acrylic)...


yes, you may share, you never know when someone may need a free gift of their own, too, someday...

i did not know that they did not have a picture of doug there, :)
it seems the good lord knew it was needed, and ol' doug
needs to 'look out over the place' like he used to, :)

oh my, as being on the same trail as your friend as to worldly things, nope i am just me... :))

simple, down to earth, lover of the good lord, and family and critter life, :))

good to know you got home safe--many folks have many hard chores to take
care of when their beloved family or partners die:
traveling safe, should be a gift to them, and returning back home, as well...

god bless...

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