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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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From the Rapid City Journal:
CUSTER - Herbert William Conn, 91, died Wednesday, Feb. 1, 2012.
Survivors include his wife, Jan Conn, Custer.
McColley's Chapels of the Hills in Custer is in charge of arrangements.
At his request, there will be no services.
An online guestbook is available at http://www.mccolleyschapels.com.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Rest in Peace to Herb , from what I have read of him , he had a long and enviable life , and a loving wife ... what more can you ask for .
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Impacted a number of generations of climbers. RIP.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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R.I.P
A legend passes :(
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Always wanted to talk to him about Zion in the '30s.
RIP
Condolences to Jan and any family.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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such a remarkable couple.
thanks for letting us know, i hadnt heard the news.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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Herb on Mt. Rushmore
Herb and Jan in 2004
Herb and Jan in 2008
Herb and Jan in 1959
Harnesses---pshaw! Jan showing the younger generation how things were done BITD
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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The Conns were real pioneers in climbing and caving, truly legendary. Sorry to learn of his passing.
The classic Conn guide to the Needles -- on the left.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aw, rest in Peace Herb! thanks for all of it, you had an enviable run!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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With much respect.
His deeds are immortal.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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A real pioneer. Thanks, Herb.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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RIP, A true legend.
A life well lived!!!
Here is to 100,000 summits on the other side!!!!
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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left his mark and will be remembered in part through so many classic routes...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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RIP Herb. A life well lived! We would all be happy to have done so well.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Wasn't being a climbing bum THEIR invention?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Herb and Jan were true minimalists, living life in a sustainable fashion. I began chatting with them in the early seventies, about climbing, although they were then caving. Sometime in the early 2000's I did my last hike with the Conns to visit a rare plant Jan was the first to find in the Black Hills. Their trail to this place even had a 3rd class section of rock climbing.
On the surface almost everything Herb did Jan deserves equal credit. However in one major way they were very different. Herb was a true recluse and Jan was quite gregarious doing music gigs at weddings with Hollis and other climbing pals. I was never sure if Herb was ever at any of the performances. He presence was sort of a Quantum Indeterminate Situation--You had to take a measurement to collapse the uncertainty. I must say He and Jan are my most revered friends of the Needles (and a minimalist life style). To me it seems no line in time will mark his death as he always had sort of an omni-presence--listening fully and quitely to what I said. Then his reply--never condemning.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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legendary!
Truly inspired me.
Learning about the Conns caving and climbing fun in the Needles kept me stoked on that whole area.
I've clambered around in that whole in the ground of theirs, called Jewel Cave. wonderful place.
Wish I could have met Herb in person.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all...
thank you for sharing all about herb's life, or i'd not know this...
wonderful history he left to us...
my concolences to his family and lovd ones, at this sad time...
god bless...
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Clyde
Mountain climber
Boulder
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The Conn's left their mark at Seneca before most of the graybeards here were a glint in their parent's eyes. Great folks!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Met them in 1957, I think. Visited them in the "ConnCave", where herb was doing some sort of electrical engineering experiment on a shelf of rock. I wouldn't call them climbing bums - that to me denotes a life essentially wasted on everything except climbing. They worked for the NPS, mapping more than 60 miles of Jewel Cave, kept the images on Mt Rushmore more or less intact, did other work in the area, and Herb kept up on his electrical engineering interests. Jan is quite a musician. They initially purchased about 15 acres in the forest near Custer and constructed their ConnCave, then later moved into a NFS trailor. At least that's the way I remember them at that time. If my memory is in error, please correct!
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Wow. Herb is absolutely synonymous with climbing in the Needles. RIP Herb.
Curt
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Awww.........what an incredible couple. HOpefully he's at the bar with Jack and the rest of the gang!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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:(
The Jewel Cave Adventure was one of my favorite reads growing up. Herb and Jan are true legends of the sport.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Congrats to both Herb & Jan for living memorable lives.
Best wishes to all.
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Sagebrusher
Sport climber
Iowa
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From the Feb 1st, 2012 NPS Morning Report
Jewel Cave National Monument (SD)
Park Volunteers Inducted Into South Dakota Hall Of Fame
Two longtime Jewel Cave volunteers, Herb and Jan Conn, were recently inducted into the South Dakota Hall of Fame in recognition of their pioneering effort to explore and discover over 60 miles of cave passages at Jewel Cave National Monument.
In addition to their diligent work of mapping a bewildering complexity of cave passages, they have inspired a second and even third generation to follow their example. Herb and Jan were the first to show that Jewel Cave to be a world class cave - today, it is recognized as one of the longest in the world.
The Conns were lured to South Dakota in the mid 1950s by the climbing possibilities presented by the granite spires known as the Needles. But, upon their first visit to Jewel Cave in 1959, they fell so completely in love with the notion of cave exploration that they all but gave up their previous passion for climbing. For over 20 years. they devoted all their energy toward the exploration, discovery, and mapping of a vast, three-dimensional maze of previously unknown cave passages.
Beginning in their late 30s, they each volunteered more than 6,000 hours over the next 22 years. Their dedication ultimately showed everyone that Jewel Cave was not the small cave it was once thought to be. Indeed, the 60 miles they discovered made it one of the longest caves on earth. Now, at over 155 miles, it is the second longest cave in the world, with no end in sight. Herb's pioneering 1965 study of the relationship between the cave's barometric wind and its volume has demonstrated that its current length is just a few percent of what remains to be discovered. Today Jewel Cave is internationally known as world-class natural treasure.
The Conn's discoveries led directly to a 1965 boundary adjustment and the development of the modern scenic tour route. First opened to the public in 1972, it accommodates up to 80,000 visitors each year and attracts visitors from across the globe.
The Conn's never viewed their work at Jewel Cave as a conquest of "man versus nature." Rather, it was a fun and friendly -- albeit challenging -- place to be. They freely shared their experiences with all who wished to accompany them and, before retiring from active caving, found and mentored enthusiastic young cavers to keep the spirit of exploration alive. Even today, the Conns enjoy their role as "arm-chair cavers," encouraging others from the sidelines. Thanks to their continued involvement, two successive generations of explorers have discovered 90 miles more than their original discoveries.
Though eschewing the limelight, the Conns have nonetheless enriched the historical record of the Black Hills by sharing their experiences via photos, song, storytelling, and the written word. They are respected throughout the world -- not because of any self-promotion, but because they found something wonderful in Jewel Cave, and couldn't help but share that sense of wonder with anyone they met. They inspire everyone to live their lives with an extra sense of adventure.
The Conns are an important and inspiring part of South Dakota history, and were inducted into the South Dakota Hall of Fame on September 17, 2011. In lieu of a formal acceptance speech, Jan played the guitar and sang one her own compositions, "The Yodeling Caver," which brought the house down as she performed the closing refrain by yodeling into a bowl of water. Then, wiping her mouth on her sleeve, and revealing a mischievous grin, she imparted words of wisdom to the audience of over 400.
"You have just learned a very important lesson," she said, "it is possible to grow older -- without ever needing to grow up!"
[Submitted by Mike Wiles, Chief of Resource Management]
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Herb's survey maps of the Needles appeared first in his guidebook, then in Bob Kamps' Guidebook, and then in Paul Piana's Guidebook. But the maps he made of Jewel Cave, depicting all the layers of interconnected rooms, were simultaneously a marvel of classical surveying and mapmaking art.
I met the Conns in the mid-sixties. They were still living in the Conn Cave, an overhanging boulder they had walled in, which accommodated their diminutive frames but required most people to bend over. Hobbits! It was amusing to notice that they had built a garage for their VW van, which consequently had more modern digs than they did.
The Conn's followed their passions, and then, with open hearts, threw open the gates of their discoveries for others to continue and enjoy. Those of us who had the privilege of following, or trying to follow, their footsteps in the Needles owe them a debt that can never be repaid. The generations of cavers they mentored, and then cheered on as the Conn's 60 miles of Jewel Cave explorations were doubled in extent, must surely feel the same way.
Rest easy, Herb. You left the world quietly, as you lived in it, but left it much enriched. And peace to you Jan in this hour of sadness.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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"They are respected throughout the world -- not because of any self-promotion, but because they found something wonderful in Jewel Cave, and couldn't help but share that sense of wonder with anyone they met. They inspire everyone to live their lives with an extra sense of adventure."
A life well lived. May we honor him and Jan too with our own humility and generous sharing of the best in life with others.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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SavantFandangle
Trad climber
DC Region
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I climbed many of his routes throughout the US. He was a particular legend in the DC metro area and Seneca Rocks, where he and his wife put up many routes. Many, many stories . . . He was an anchor of the local history here. He will no doubt be missed and best wishes to his wife.
Keep on climbing . . . .
RJB
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Dennis Hoffman
Trad climber
Sac
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Have climbed many a Conn route in the Black Hills. Herb will be missed.Condolences to Jan.
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Broken
climber
Texas
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I always admired their achievements and their relationship. A unique couple. Tough to imagine what it's like for Jan now.
I heard a few lovely stories about them from their grand-nephew, Seth Walker (an excellent musician who we hired to play our wedding).
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Amy Skinner Underwood
climber
Mancos, CO
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Herb and Jan are such heroes of ours! Love and affection to Jan - we are thinking of you!
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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“Don and the two of us climbed the south peak on a gorgeous moonlit evening, carrying sleeping bags, and spent the night on the narrow summit ridge. Don woke up in the night to see the lower half of Jan’s bag flapping over the edge. But Jan was safely curled up in the top half, still anchored to a piton in the rock.”. (PATC newsletter)
Definately an integral part of Seneca's history - what an amazing couple.
Godspeed....
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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RIP. A life well lived.
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pleasantOs
Trad climber
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a living legend passes. i still get a little spooked by the east face at seneca. to imagine them climbing back then and to look at all they have done and shown us. a courageous and ground-breaking couple in many "arenas". he was such a remarkable climbing pioneer and true inspiration. i didn't even expect them to still be living until i read that climbing article from '08. what the heck does a west coast kid know showing up to an east coast crag? a lot more now! may the legend of the climbing conn couple (triple C) live forever in climbing lore!
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Hilt
Social climber
Utah
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I'll be missing him. He was a great person to talk to full of wisdom and charm.
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Bob Culp
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Ah damn! Where's everybody going?
Herb was something else. I loved chatting with him and Jan. Did a new route with Paul Muehl once and the Conns came to watch. Herb thought maybe he might just give it a try. Jan said "You're too old for that." So he didn't. R.I.P pal.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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RIP Herb. I met them once or twice over the years but mainly know them for the their climbs which are unbelievably spectacular. My wife texted me the news as I was on my way to Cody. They led the way for many of us.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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One time in the late 70's, while I was a caver but knott yet a climber, I watched my caving mentor Chas Yonge solo Conns' East on Seneca Rocks in West Virginia - in his running shoes. He said it felt pretty hard. I was totally gripped watching him. [Having my mentor ending up dead would not have been good]
We later found the guidebook, and it was rated 5.6. "It seemed a bit 'arder," said Chas.
Years later, the sandbag rating was up-rated - to 5.8.
RIP Herb.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Not to take anything away from the Conn's, but the route as they did it is 5.6. A direct start at 5.8 was added later.
But 5.6 at Seneca ain't no joke. The rock is steep and unforgiving if you start futzing around. Here's a modern leader on the route, carrying, wearing, and using all kinds of gear the Conn's couldn't even have imagined.
They had a few Army pitons, (nothing that would go where that blue Camalot is) probably scavenged from Seneca since the Mountain Troops used it as a practice area, sneakers, and an 80 foot length of Goldline tied around their waists with a bowline. I don't know the exact year but it would have been before 1947, when they headed West.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Very sorry to hear this. RIP Herb. Condolences to Jan and their loved ones. I'm sure that John is correct that the Conns weren't "climbing bums" but they were some of the the first, at least in this country, to devote themselves to an incredibly simple lifestyle (long before that word was in use)with an emphasis on climbing, caving and love of the outdoors. (though John Muir surely paved the way, as did Norman Clyde a generation earlier).In addition to the climbs on Seneca and in the Black Hills (and elsewhere) mentioned earlier, their on-sight first ascent of Conncourse--probably 5.8 in it's original form--on Cannon Mountain, NH in 1945 (I think)was an incredible tour-de-force climbed in tennis sneakers, surely the hardest route in the region for more than a decade. Not only was the route climbed on-sight, but they had never even seen the mountain before and had no idea of the location of any of the (few) existing routes. Unfortunately the original route has long since been destroyed by rockfall, though some sections have been incorporated into the modern classic Moby Grape. They definitely got around and made their mark on a number of climbing areas during an era when this was much harder to do than it is today.Truly an extraordinary couple.
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Hollis M
Trad climber
Laramie
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Another Conn story -- the Conns as pteridologists (fern enthusiasts). For a more detailed account, with photos of the Conns in action, see:
http://plantsandrocks.blogspot.com/2012/02/plants-rocks-ferns-and-granite-and.html
When I got to know the Conns in the mid 1990s, they had retired from caving and were back into rock climbing (Herb was 76, Jan a few years younger). They told me about an interesting fern they sometimes saw in cracks while climbing. They hoped I could tell them what it was, so we headed out for a look and found the maidenhair spleenwort, the forked spleenwort and a Mystery Fern which I couldn't identify. I sent it to the New York Botanical Garden, where it was identified it as the alternate-leaved spleenwort, at that time known from only three locations in the US, all on the East Coast. The Conns and I ended up publishing our findings in the American Fern Journal!
It was always sooo much fun to go botanizing with Herb and Jan. We would hike, scramble and even rope up at times in our search for ferns.
One of Jan’s many talents is rubber stamp art. Here is a story about the Conn’s fern adventures. Stamps by Jan, script by Hollis.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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Thanks for that, Hollis. I've taken the liberty of adding the link to your blog article to the post at the beginning where I listed various sources of information about the Conn's.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice, Hollis!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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What an inspiration!
To live one's dreams and still make it to age 91.
I am glad Jan was the sociable one so that she will have friends
and support during this difficult time.
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Hollis M
Trad climber
Laramie
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rgold -- absolutely! thanks for adding the link. And hi jaybro!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A hearty welcome to The Last Pioneer Woman assuming that you are the same Hollis?!?
Thanks for the share!
Is anyone looking after Jan right now?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
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A classic Herb and Jan article from the early days of Summit magazine November 1957.
Sharing The Credo of the Craggin' Road Warriors right from the start!
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Hollis M
Trad climber
Laramie
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Feb 10, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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Hi Steve, thanks for posting the article with the wonderful photos -- I had not seen those before. And note to all: Daryl S of the local guide service in Custer posted a very nice tribute to his friends the Conns, maybe Rich will add it to the list:
http://sylvanrocks.com/_blog/SR_Climbing_School_Blog/post/Herb_Conn_dies_at_91/
Friends report that Jan is doing well -- still living in the Conncave, still independent, still smiling.
LPW
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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Done, Hollis.
And Steve, thanks for a fantastic bit of history.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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Bump for the Conncave!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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Here are two more bits of Conn memorabilia, thanks to Bonnie Kamps.
One of the many ways the Conn's supported themselves was with leather work. Here is a Conn hammer holster that belonged to Bob Kamps.
Before he surpassed himself with his survey maps of Jewel Cave, Herb Conn's masterpiece was a surveyed map of the Cathedral Spires. The Conn's used this map as the basis for the following clay model of the Cathedral Spires:
For more examples of Conn leatherwork, see Steve Grossman's post http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1243312&msg=1371988#msg1371988
Something that doesn't appear there that I remember is their Devil's Tower Canteen Holders.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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That clay model is too cool!
Thanks Bonnie and Rich!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Over there
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Feb 11, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Wow, what a life! RIP. Just read the obit and will have to take some time to better peruse this thead when I have more time.
Eric
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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More classic Herb from Summit July 1957.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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The spirit, humor and wisdom in the cartoons, articles, pictures and remembrances here are quite amazing. Sure seems like Herb and Jan found an essential truth about climbing: keep it simple, take in all the wonders of nature as you go, enjoy to the max, be generous and find your own true rules by which to live.
Just wondering: any way to send Jan something she might appreciate as a tribute to Herb and her?
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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The Conns found and explored some really amazing places and were the first to write consistently about pure rock climbing in virtually the only climbing magazine around.
The first article about the Needles from Summit October 1956.
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gandalf the gray wanderer
Trad climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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As though he were here before me, I see Herb’s infectious smile, hear his wit sneaking up on a tale unfolding, passed back and forth between he and Jan in the telling, and hear his quiet laugh at the end. Since the mid 80’s a trip to the “hills” wasn’t complete without a visit to the Conn’s. While the trip were usually climbing trips their visits to our camp near their home, our visits to the Knothole, and the time together outdoors, were always the cherished highlight. They never outright gave me any virgin rock, but to go on a hike with them, or follow up on a request to replace a summit register they could no longer get to, and being able to see what they were showing me led to many unclimbed routes and summits.
And they showed more than routes. They managed to work no more than they had to. After telling any story of when Herb did face jobs at Rushmore they would end with the best part of the jobs was…(pause, look at each other, and laughing together…”it was temporary.” They showed how to live. Much of what Herb did (and Jan as well) for employment they had fun doing. It wasn’t that they only did things that were fun, it was a matter of finding joy in what ever they were doing. The music, the writing, the drawing, the leather work, climbing, caving, cartography, discovering rare ferns, maintaining an off the grid home, they had fun. Yes, they worked hard and played hard, but I never knew any two people that so thoroughly enjoyed each other and life. Literally knowing each other since childhood (Jan once said that as a preschooler say told a friend “Herb is the boy I’m going to marry“) they were soul mates and the closest of partners. While I grieve for our loss at Herb’s passing, I take joy from his life. Thank you Herb and Jan.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Very touching post gandalf.
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Burr
climber
UT
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Feb 23, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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anyone have a photos of a conn penny?
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Amazing people. I love it when I stumble on a Conn Classic.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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The full version of Jam- Crack Joe thanks to Herb and Summit magazine July/August 1958.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Here is Herb Conn's superb map (based, of course, on his own surveying) of the Cathedral Spires and Picket Fence. In this form, the map was first produced for Bob Kamps' Needles guide. We took Herb's map from his mimeographed Needles pamphlet and trace-enlarged it by hand with a pantograph. Kay Arnott did most of the drafting work. The fine print is readable if you click on the photo to get the enlarged view.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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Rgold, are the other maps in the Piana guide also drawn by Herb? I assume they were. Those maps are amazing and had to be unbelievably hard to make as accurate as they are. I have spent the last two decades using them to try to climb as many of the old routes I feel I have the guts to do. There really has been no substitute to those maps even to this day.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 26, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
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Conn route on the left of this spire.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Feb 27, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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An inspiring couple. Much sympathy to Jan -- may her heart find peace and comfort.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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More Conncraft...
On Stone...
From Summit November 1956.
On Leather...
From Summit November 1957.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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Haha, hilarious from the modern perspective to see runners (tied from one-inch tubular nylon yet) proposed as a new and useful piece of gear in 1956. (Of course, the Brits new about these---and named them---many years before that, and their use in the Elbsandsteingebirge probably predated the 20th century.
I started climbing in 1957 and remember using runners made of 1/4" Goldline, so I don't think the idea was totally novel.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I thought it was funny too.
As Needles climbers I suspect that the runner was king very early on!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Save yourself some aggravation and racking carabiners and do it the Conn way!
From Summit February 1959. And it's musical too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Crafty bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 14, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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Do it yourself bump...
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pneame
Trad climber
Tampa, FL
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Jul 14, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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Thanks for bumping. I'd always admired the Conns from afar. sad news. But what a life!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Aug 23, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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Bump for the one of the originas....
Wonder what kind of blotter they were doing back then?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 23, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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Desktop variety...I suspect. LOL
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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I can't edit the page on which I tried to collect references to Herb and Jan, so here separately is a video, Up Not Down, by Josh Galt. It's about about climbing generally, and aimed at a general audience, not climbers. Much of it is in the Needles, and it pays a lot of attention to Herb and Jan and how they thought about climbing.
http://vimeo.com/30503336#
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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This almost instantly dropped out of sight. I'll bump it once for those who might be interested and who missed the first few seconds it was visible.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Great find Rich!
Thanks for posting it up.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Thanks for finding that. Will take a look when I have a bit of time.
Eric
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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The video is great. It has some interesting footage of contemporary climbing, but the stuff on the Conns is awesome. What amazing people.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for 2013!
I hope to visit with Jan sometime this summer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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Conn Bump...
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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I just ordered the Jewel Cave book: wish I had done it while he was alive. When I was a teenager, I read more caving than climbing literature, but caving lit sure isn't as common.
dar
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Joel Hagan has posted a 1955 Appalachia article by Herb about ascents of the South Tower of Spire 4 and the Conn Route on the Outer Outlet. I've linked to Joel's scans below.
The consensus grade (among five climbers who contributed) for the South Tower route on Mountain Project is 5.9. Only one climber called it 5.8 and no one gave it the 5.7 it used to be back in the day. I've done it several times, usually in combination with the Conn's best achievement, the East Face of the East Gruesome, which is a bit more than a grade harder than the South Tower route (we called the East Gruesome route 5.8+). If the South Tower is really 5.9 (which, sorry to say, I doubt, although I wish it was true) then the East Gruesome would be 5.10 and a really fantastic achievement for the Conn's.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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I think a friend and I did the second ascent of the South Tower in perhaps 1957, after reading this stimulating article. Wonderful days. And,yes, I wore a loose fitting pair of Cortinas and it felt like 5.9!
;>)
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Jimmer
Trad climber
Orland Park, IL
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Mar 27, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Actually, the first articles about the Needles were earlier in Appalachia magazine:
The Conns were amazing people and climbing pioneers. They blazed a trail for the rest of us!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Bump for Herb and Jan...
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Thanks for bumping this.
Incredible climbers, explorers, and just a wonderful history, and love story. Great to see couples so in love and staying together their entire lives and doing all the adventure together. That's the dream isn't it?
Inspirational.
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DWB
climber
Madison
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Jun 23, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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Is Jan Conn still alive?
Thanks for the thread. Every time I'm out in the black hills I try to tick off one more Conn FA route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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Rich and Michael- Thanks for posting those reprints from Appalachia!
Jan is very much alive and going strong despite losing her beloved Herbie.
I got her life story recorded just last year with Paul Piana sitting in to help with the route details. It was a delightful interview and she is an amazing climber.
Fred and Heidi Knapp gave me a copy of Lindsay Stephens' excellent guide to their Needles routes.
Please support Sharp End and Lindsay and buy a copy of this wonderful book.
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