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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 26, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Can anyone here tell me about "Herbie's Horror," done by Herb Conn in about 1942, reported to be a 5.9, in Maryland (?) or maybe at Carter Rock (?). I'm guessing it was a top-rope, but if he led it, certainly it would be one of the earlier 5.9 routes, a significant achievement.
Pat
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 26, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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Interesting:
Pat I have (had) never heard of that route, however certainly I have heard of the Conn's.
A long standing 'Cannon classic' in New Hampshire, is the route
Conn course III 5.7/5.8 Herb/jan conn 08/45
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15825820
On a recent morning, Sharma tackles Herbie's Horror, a 25-foot rock wall of gray schist in Carderock. It's named for Herb Conn, who first climbed it in 1942. At the time, it required some of the trickiest climbing moves in the United States.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 26, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Pat
It's been a long time since I've been back there--
There might have been one, he did spend time there--
it's actually called Carderock. It's just
off the C & O canal in the Potomac River gorge.
You might check on google for some old guides maybe?
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Jan 26, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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I doubt it was lead, the rock at Carderock is a mica schist that is really poor at taking pro. Deuce lead some route on Crack n Ups etc way back when. I've seen Friends blow out. There are maybe 10 old bolt casings (self drives) in the entire area and very few pin scars. TRing off trees has always been the norm.
I have climbed there since 1980 (never knew that route, looks to be over on the left side).
Herb and Jan Conn were from the D.C. area and climbed everywhere (even Tucson in the 1940's) finally settling on South Dakota.
find the "mayor" of Carderock John Gregory and ask about the routes. Routes always tended to be severely sandbagged and grease from years or climbing has changed many o routes difficulty (see Merv's Nerve) or were simply hard to begin with (Green Bucket).
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Jan 26, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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from Gill's page:
-Silver Spot (5.10) by Mike Banks
speaking of sandbags (or broken holds)
it was 5.13- through the 1980's until down rated to 5.12/+ with new shoes.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 26, 2008 - 06:20pm PT
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jstan may have the answer - he lived in Washington D.C. for some time, and climbed at Carderock. He hasn't posted much lately, though.
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Jan 26, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Hello Oli,
Herbie's Horror is about 12 miles from my house.
Carderock is on the Maryland side of the river, near Great Falls. A pretty place, especially when the crowds aren't there. It is definitely a toprope area, although the bouldering is fun too. It isn't a big area but there is lots of easy soloing to be had. Most stuff is between 30-60 ft.
Herbie's Horror is next to a big chimney, and is indeed pretty tricky. Good footwork wins the day.
I have trouble reckoning the grades with what I grew up with out west. It is definitely a sandbag area if you're from the west. 5.9 out here would be mid 5.10 most places in the west if not a twitch more! The locals have things wired so of course they can make this stuff "look" like it's easy......
Bruce
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TripleS_in_EBs
Trad climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Pat,
In the 80's I used to climb at Carderock (Maryland) every other day. Like rick d and survival say, it's really a toprope area. I've seen people lead there maybe three times, ever. Many climbs have no means for placing any kind of pro that would be of any use and fixed gear is the big no-no. And I also have to ditto that the ratings, at least in the older guidebooks to the area, are beyond stiff and typically can't be compared to anywhere else.
Regarding Herbie's Horror, my old guidebook published by John Forrest Grergory in 1980. says:
"Herbie's Horror 5.7. Named for Herb Conn, of Herb and Jan Conn, who seem to have a climb named for themselves at every area in the East (Conn's East and West at Seneca, Concourse on Cannon and Jan's Face also at Carderock). The climb is on the left wall of the chimney-like area, left of the long wall of Jan's Face. The start is an awkward balance on nubbins to the curved ledge. Step right and continue upward on small nubbins. Small flakes form the last holds at the top."
Be assured it ain't like 5.7 anywhere else.
John Harlin's guidebook East Coast Rock Climbs when discussing Carderock and Great Falls states that "At least one 5.9 route was top roped as early as 1936." But he does not cite the route, nor does he include Herbie's Horror in his Carderock route highlights. He does, however, list a mailing address for John Forrest Gregory.
Hope that helps. If you need more first hand info about the route (height, steepness, character, etc.) let me know, I might be able to help.
Side note: interestingly, my Bill Webster Seneca Rocks guidebook credits the first ascents of Conn's East and Conn's West to persons other than the Conns. I always assumed they did the first ascents of these two namesake routes, but apparently not.
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