o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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That's some sick shakin' at Ours ß Î Ø T Ç H
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dave
climber
Earth
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It seems like the surfing world is finally setting their ego aside, just a little, when it comes to surfing big scary life threatning waves now. I made a comment on a surfline forum after Sion Milosky (?) died about how it was strange that when in those types of conditions that they didn't really watch each others backs, they mostly just hoped for the best that no one would get hurt, or that there was enough guys in the water that they could watch out for each other. Total bullshit! They need a guy or 2 on a ski watching everyone, or at least a real buddy system, a surfer and a would be rescuer.In most cases sure, but not at macking Mavs, or Jaws or Todos or Cortez Bank or Ghost Trees etc....they need a surfer and a person who watches their every move in order to be as close to safe as possible. The forum deleted my comment about their reckless and hopeful approach to a good outcome. Granted their have been few deaths comparable to the #'s of guys surfing these huge waves, it would be interesting to know (which is impossible to know) if Foos' death could have been prevented or Sions, we will never know.
Now I guess Greg Long got hammered at Cortez Bank last week had to get picked up by a helicopter and flown back to the main land and finally all those guys are waking up and facing how serious a task they are undertaking when in those conditions, and making commetns about how they need a buddy system and they are all changing their approach.
Retards, though I'm glad they realize the dangers finally.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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o-man, Departure Delayed is more than worthy. Thanks for the clip. So cool to see these once groms forcing the evolution of the sport. Where will it go from here?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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I've posted from a day to day view on this but if I think of the content of the OP and try to answer "complimentary"?
The home break where I grew up has changed greatly but the rock I still love to climb has not. There are definite parallels to both pursuits and the one constant is more physical but mentally, now, entirely different.
What once was a sparsely populated stretch of coast when I first started surfing at age 8 with the same characters and pecking orders is now overrun with the aged (trying not to be too judge-mental) trying to fit their corporate lifestyles (because that's what it takes to be able to afford the lifestyle in California now) into what I grew up with. My home brake is now scathing with forty year old beginners changing the rules of the road and my mental status with it. I haven't been able to adapt.
And this is the fundamental difference for me. The mental aspect of it. And though both rock climbing and surfing both share many characteristics (Surf spots have names and so do climbing routes) the rock is still perfect and uncrowded. Where as my home break, which is only occasionally good, is now always crowded, even when windblown and sloppy, I can always drive to the base of Stateley, swim the lake, put my shoes and chalk bag on and climb a perfect piece of rock, on any given day when the suns out,uncrowded on one of my favorite routes, just like when I first started out.
The rock, to me, is almost always perfect and the permanence is what is so different.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Peter I have to politely & with all do respect disagree. In surfing the ride is the crux. The minute I hit the water I'm climbing, usually for my life. I've been beaten badly and not even made it passed the break. I had several days last winter & this spring that I managed to get out, but was so beat I barely new where I was.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Here's another image that I took from the cliff above Peahi on NYE 20012
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Hell Yeah !
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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clean
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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wstmrnclmr-
the permanence is what is so different.
Yes.
Any wave you get, and especially a good one or a barrel, is the essence of impermanence. A rolling band of energy traveling perhaps thousands of miles, and you were there at the right moment to experience it.
It may be the best wave, or the finest experience of your life or just the day, and when you kick out or reach the beach...it is gone. It remains only in your memory, your heartbeat, or the smile on your face.
This is one reason why surfing is so difficult to learn or get good at.
I always think about how it would be to have to drive up to the boulders just to see if they were there at all.
always there
re:johnjohn (classic stinkeye/cracked smile pic)
I think what we're seeing in guys like him is the same progression we're seeing in climbing with the new genereation.
He grew up with not only modern heavy wave chargers as his mentors and idols but with airs and progressive surfing as the norm. He was learning how to get pitted and bust airs at a very early age. Location, of course had much to do with that, as well as freakish natural talent.
Young climbers these days learn, or at least start climbing on stuff that was pro level not to long ago, with modern hard climbers as their idols.
The whole continuum thing, as well as the history of progression in both pursuits, is something I love thinking about.
Surfing and climbing....the best life.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Greg Noll is the sh#t. Read his Biography a while back, really enjoyed reading it. Have you had a chance to check it out.
Another great book is by Mike Doyle called " Morning Glass"
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