Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

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Messages 741 - 760 of total 1474 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 24, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
Kuau beach and launch site north shore Maui <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Kuau beach and launch site north shore Maui
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
After surfing windless and often large waves every day this past week the wind came back two days ago and delivered one of the most delightful wave sailing seshs of the season.
It was one of those seshes that put a big smile on every face on our beach.
I’m not talking epic in any way other than steady perfection 4.7m wind and plenty of head to logo high waves. There were a few nearly mast high waves later in the day. Most of the waves that day had good size and shape but very little power in them. Other than the late day makers that came through that is.
Yesterday’s sesh proved to be a different ball game. Most of the sets were producing waves in the mast high and better range. I must admit that I took my time launching in that I enjoy the later seshes after most of the sailors have tried out. Many of our core group sail at that time as well.
I chose a 4.7m sail with a 78ltr wave board instead of a 5.0m sail. The 4.7m sail worked well but was on the low end of the power range.
The wind had backed off the shore and I had to swim with my rig all the way out the channel and I had difficult time water starting in the turbulent area we fondly call the toilet bowl due to the mixed up hydraulics caused by conflicting currents and a very shallow reef.
The 4.7m sail worked well but it was on the low end of the power range. It actually delivered plenty of power for me to place myself in a perfect position to catch an uncountable number of juicy mast high waves with very little penalty.
I did get worked pretty good a couple of times but that is to be expected when wave sailing in those conditions.
The weather was far less stable than the day before. The passing rain squalls often nearly shut the wind down completely. These pesky squalls also produced some of the most brilliant rainbows. I wish my and ME limited powers of description would allow me to describe this dynamic setting to the level it deserves.
At one point I was a fair ways off shore on my way back in. I had very little wind in my sail and I was just barely planning when two 7’-8’ dolphins decided to cruise along with me for a while.
The dolphins, rainbows, warm and clear water, just enough wind, magnificent waves, a dynamic Maui landscape, and some good friends to share it with! What a blessing!
The sub planning conditions made up wind progress difficult. Every time I gained a little ground another nice wave would present its self and I would have to take it. This kept me down wind of the narrow channel that I had to navigate in order to make it back to the rocky launch site.
I made one attempt at coming in and made it through the impact zone but when I did the wind shut off and I fell in the same area that I described earlier. I had No wind in very confusing currents. All the while I was drifting away from any chance making my destination.
At this point I was still in a position to possibly swim in, but, it would be very close. I didn’t like the odds so I decided to try to water start and sail back through the impact zone. I hoped to gain a better angle on the approach to the narrow channel. Luckily I made it out through the waves during a pause in the sets.
This time I worked my way up wind to a point that I felt that I could make another run at it.
I was hoping for another lull in the wave action long enough to slip inside the impact zone without taking one of the giant waves from behind and losing my balance falling in and not being able to water start.
Well, Lady Luck was not with me! When I entered the impact zone a large wave came up on me from behind. It plowed over me from behind. I was violently swept up and I plunged free falling over the falls with my gear!
This must have been very entertaining to the peanut gallery that was assembled on the beach.
Before I recovered from the beating that the last wave dealt me, I had to take the next two equally sized waves of the set on the head!
After catching my breath I swam over and retrieved gear. I was once again out of position for the channel.
This is not the first time that I have been in this situation and course of action was clear.
I had to drift with current around the rock point and then swim with my stuff to the extreme back of the bay,
Once the point had been cleared it gets peaceful and there was time to reflect on the day, the rainbows, the dolphins, and BEER. I knew that I was going to a friendly place and I made good progress up until I about 150 meters from my chosen destination. With an outgoing tide the undertow was at this point inhibiting my progress to land. This can be very frustrating and extremely exhausting.
My friend Dean had been watching my progress from over on the point with binoculars and saw that I was in the grips of the strong rip current. Dean waked 300meters of jagged rocky shore barefoot to where I was trying to get in. The next thing I knew he was putting on his fins and started swimming out to me. He made it to me in no time at all. With his help the two of us were able to break the lock that the current had on me.
The rocky landing was sketchy but all went well with no injury to body or gear.
I wasn’t the only sailor that had a bit of an epic getting back to the beach last night.
All in all that’s the game we play at Kuau.
We have no winners only survivors!


o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 25, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Credit: o-man

About a decade ago I was hired by a Brazilian movie production company to help with the filming of the “Tow-In World Cup” a surfing competition being held at Peahi "Jaws".
My initial assignment was establishing two separate camera stations on the sheer cliff above “Jaws”. In addition to the camera platforms, a trail system with safety rails also needed to be constructed in order to safely transport the equipment and protect the crew that were positioned on these steep and awkward perches.

The film was to be shot with 35mm movie cameras.
This required a person constantly running freshly loaded film canisters from a production vehicle on top down the cliff down to the camera station below and transporting canisters of exposed film back to the production center for processing and reloading.
While I was working on my camera station and trail project, there was a lot going on out on the ocean.
In addition to the usual surfing activity at Jaws, another production crew was at work.
Laird Hamilton, Derrick Doener, and Dave Kalama, were towing in to waves in the 30’ range. They were wearing camouflage print wetsuits, firing weapons at each other with all three of them surfing the same wave. This was an action stunt for an upcoming James Bond movie.

After the trail construction was completed the swell on the north shore dropped drastically causing the contest to be postponed.

Two weeks went by before I received the call telling me that the contest was on and we were going back to work.

The majority of the contestants and film crew had left the island and gone back to their homes.
They were now on the first flights back to Maui!

Also on its way to Maui was a giant swell!

With all the logistics of a live film shoot, something had to go wrong, and things did!

One of the rented 35mm movie cameras went down at another very important camera spot.
Mercer Richards our assistant camera man was moved to that station to continue the shooting using his personal movie camera equipment.

Cameraman Greg Huglin received a radio call from the producer (Mike Slattery) asking which of the backup camera men he wanted to fill in as his assistant. His response was, "I already have a man, Olaf is taking care of things quite well and all we need is a film runner to take his place"
This resulted in my a*#isting Greg Huglin while he filmed “Jaws” at over50’ with the best big wave "tow–in” surfers in the world competing for a $70,000 first place prize!
Credit: o-man
The footage that was shot that day was later turned into the feature film “ Billabong Odyssey”


(Greg Huglin wrote this about that shot.)
"Hey Olaf,
Yup this amazing shot keeps on popping up and I think it's the most widely watched shot online.
It was shot by Pete Fuzard in Super18 from the helo.
I was shooting from the spot you built me and ran thru twenty 400' film mags (80 minutes) that day, the most I ever shot in one day, ever.
I begged Pete to let me do the helo shooting since I had already done almost 200 hours in the past but he was the director and it was his call.
It was Pete's very first time of using the Tyler Mount in a helo and he friggin nailed it!
The shot of Parsons is jaw dropping and will live as one of the best ever.
That was an amazing day we all had courtesy of the Brazilians.
I just ran into Ricardo Fonseca, the Brazilian producer of that event here in Santa Barbara.
He was visiting a rich Brazilian surfer who is a mutual acquaintance and Ricardo came over to my house and visited.
He still has a surfing TV show in Brazil.
How’s the Maui life for you?
Cheers,
Greg




o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 26, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
Photo: Bob Carmichael
Photo: Bob Carmichael
Credit: o-man
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 26, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
I'm o-man and I approve of this message!
I'm o-man and I approve of this message!
Credit: o-man
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 26, 2012 - 08:37pm PT

Probably a repost but I don't care.
I like this shot because it reminds me of countless evenings spent here.

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 26, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
[quote it reminds me of countless evenings spent here.
[/quote]

That's what I'm talkin' about Cozen

!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:57am PT

I was going through Kickstart to support Ed Padula's El Cap film restoration project, and I noticed that there is a film about Rick Griffin in the works.



His imagery influenced me tremendously as I grew up in the Bay Area in the 60s and 70s.

Here is a snip of the outline at http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/49615095/griffin-the-film?ref=thanks.

The Film: “Griffin” is a feature-length documentary that explores the art, life and eccentric spark of one of the world’s least known and most influential 20th Century surrealists. Over the time-warped span of the 1960's, one-time teen cartoonist Rick Griffin created defining icons for three pillars of west coast counterculture: surfing, psychedelic rock and underground comix.
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:13am PT
Credit: east side underground
fnally got back in the water last week at Jalama. Fun sholder to head high with clean conditions. Felt so good to get some waves after long lay-off due to injury and work. RIP to Fran Solorio who was taken by Whitey at surf beach. (one of the spookiest spots I've surfed, not a good idea during Oct. it seems}
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=189516514489213
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 28, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
jalama burger!
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Oct 28, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
A little surf variety. Sure are a lot of vids out there.




o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Following message is from Tracey Harrap regarding the recent Tsunami Warning in Maui -

Tracey Harrap
hi paul.... yeah some drama once again!
i got texted while leaving mana food with dinner supplies BUGGER there goes dinner plans...
These warning effect me as to where i live... as with many others. its very stressfull to deal with if this concerns you. First thing is text messages and phone calls of warning... they often drop out and not received due to overload on ph systems.. its still not officall on whats happening. I dont have a T.V so its hard to keep updated.. though local radio is very good.
Next thing is it REALLY going to hit you? Then the sirens start going off... thats a scary sound.... and its the first warning that is serious, and that evacuations are happening and reccomened... this follows by more sirens and airplanes flying over the effected coast areas... with flashing lights and also sounding a siren ... then the cops start driving up your street using a recorded message telling you to leave.
Neighbours group together questions of "Are you going? Are you staying? Are we on high enough ground? "How many times have we all packed and nothing happened? (this i belive is my 4th time) You think... "BUT is this diferent than other times?" Which direction is it coming from... straight on this time... yet the hight warnings are less then the Japan warnings, which left only a small amount of damage.
But like i said this is coming straight to you.. The Ocean is a mystery on what she could, or could not brew up, regardless of last time!!! Thoughts of the memorys of Japan cant help run through your mind again.
So you pack... what do you take? What dont you take. Yourself and family are at the top of the list, along with your furry friends
Its intresting in what do people hold of most value..... As the chance of watching your home disapear or damanaged is in warning.... and then wishing you had grabed something.. seeming you had time. Or do you just bail with a basic few back up clothes, passport laptop and credit cards.
For me its these basics i take and my bike... perhaps roads are damaged, and a bike could serve quite handy. Of course theres my dog. Its a strange feeling knowing everything else may or may not be there in less than an hour from now. Its an errie feeling hearing the sirens start up again.. after every so many minutes (I think was about every 15mins or so) The sirens rings increase as the countdown is getting closer. I bail its not worth it... its my choice... some neighbours stay.. thats their choice. Getting in a car driving to high ground is better than taking that 50/50 chance.
You go to a mates place and demand a cocktail and you crash on their floor or sofa... PJ party oh yeah!!!! hopefully they have T.V to stay updated. tomorrow is going to be new day... but it sure can have a new story!
So that basically what happens, yes im tired today, yes, I was allowed to go home this morning, and yes you can see the surge levels on the beachs.. not sure of any damage yet, planes and helicoptors are flying low around the coast levels...
Yes its a new day... and yes it could have been a different story.
You are welcome to share this on the N.Z.W.A page if you like.... just wanted to share my views as living here on Maui for 16 years. and you wanted news.
I also still think of all those people in the south island with all what they have gone through the last few years. EVERYONE stay safe and enjoy each day.. one never knows!
Mahalo Tracey Harrap N.Z.L -17

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 29, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
We are in the middle of another an epic period here on the north shore of Maui.
We have had three separate shark events two of which I posted about up thread and another that we an actual bite.
http://mauinews.com/page/content.detail/id/566411/Beaches-closed-after-shark-attack.html?nav=10
The ocean has been in a unique mood.
Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have gotten. I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them. He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and it was getting bigger and bigger. After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours of the session the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs. We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place. This set was one of the biggest so far and mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up. Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch. I was contemplating a second session but when I got to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle out into.
The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big. No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower. So I thought.
Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing. I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke! I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.
RIP "Aggro Tank" <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
RIP "Aggro Tank"
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out. By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s the were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted. After three of those a major set rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
I spent the rest of the day watching the pros compete in the AWT wave sailing competition that was being held at Hookipa Beach Park right down the beach from my house.
There was soo much carnage and broken gear it was amazing. The best wave sailors in the world were getting creamed and washed on the rocks. What a show!
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man

Quite a few of our gang gathered at my friend Tom’s beach house for a while that evening until the tsunami warning sirens went off and the police came around telling us that we had to evacuate the north shore and get to high ground.
We all went our separate ways I went home and grilled some dinner and then drove up country to the old abandoned Maui High School where most of my neighbors were hanging out. It was just like a big block party. Everyone had brought a cooler full of refreshments and the festivities went on into the a.m.
I was very tired the next morning so I had a leisurely morning and then went wave sailing with good wind and mast high waves till nearly dark.
Today the waves are still here although they seem to be a bit smaller and the wind is blowing so it’s, GAME ON!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
This surf thread is so epic, due mainly to Olafs fantastic efforts! So I will refrain from boring you about my snow infested expedition to climb The Line at Lover's Leap on Friday and instead talk about surf. Fun day at Carmel, waist to shoulder, clean, sunny, rode leash less, friendly vibe in the water, not at all like the fuk-heads in zBrowns vid... and meandering around the interwebs today I found the following article and suddenly I want to go to Angola:

http://www.surfermag.com/features/punto-desnudo/

Here is the video that comes with it:


I also came across this wipeout, Olaf, know anything about this session?
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/greatest-wipeouts/greatest-wipeouts-matt-meola_77996

Thats all for now, when I get some pics loaded from Friday I will let you know!

Charles
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Charles, thanks for the Kind words Dude!
I saw that video and I think that Mat was being very modest in his description of that massive can of woop ass he was dealt at Jaws! Mat Meola is my neighbor and I hang out with his dad Gary nearly every day.

Here's a couple more of my neighbors the Walsh twins DK and Shaun at Jaws.
DK and Shaun Walsh
DK and Shaun Walsh
Credit: o-man
Shaun Walsh at Jaws <br/>
Photo: Erik Aeder
Shaun Walsh at Jaws
Photo: Erik Aeder
Credit: o-man
DK Walsh at Jaws <br/>
DK Walsh at Jaws

Credit: o-man
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 31, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Credit: pyro
The Alpine

climber
Oct 31, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Sandy gave us the goods for days. One for the record books.

o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 1, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
Nice video Alpine!
Eddie Would Go!
Eddie Would Go!
Credit: o-man
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:35am PT
Speaking of Eddie Aikau I watched "Busting Down The Door" again yesterday while I was in the Dentist office.
I was living on the north shore of Oahu up on Puppakia Road above Waimea Bay while the violent part of this drama was taking place. So it has a special feeling for me.

During the winter of 1975 in Hawaii, surfing was shaken to its core. A group of young surfers from Australia and South Africa sacrificed everything and put it all on the line to create a sport, a culture, and an industry that is today worth billions of dollars and has captured the imagination of the world. With a radical new approach and a brash colonial attitude, these surfers crashed headlong into a culture that was not ready for revolution.

Surfing was never to be the same again.
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