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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 20, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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G_Gnome is talking about that September 1975 swell. THe famed New Zealand Swell that combined with a hurricane that swung out from Baja into So CAL window, giving us some of the best surf ever and lasting for over a week. Even Dohoney was punchy and totally shortboardable ...and this was single fin Parrish style shortboards. As to the 20 foot backs at Malibu, that sounds a little overstated to me. Hey, but I wasn't there. THe largest stuff I saw in SC or LB was a little over 20 ft faces; solid triple overhead for me.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 20, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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The movie 'Big Wednesday' was filmed at Ollie's Point in Nic and Costa. The big wave scenes were filmed in Hawaii with George Greenough doing most of the water work.
Actually, Cojo and La Libertad.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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When you come from AZ, this might as well be Indonesia.
Rib high, glassy, one guy out.
It picked up and turned into a mysto afternoon session.
My ribs hurt.
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bob
climber
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Jefe!!!!!!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jefe, Those are the BEST days!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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I can't remember if it was 73 or 75 but I do remember watching the waves topping the pier & boards being torn off.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Surfed early A.M. hard to see what's in front of you!
later in the morning i took the camera out..
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Scored dreamy surf last week.
Planning a trip months ahead and lucking into these conditions is the stuff of dreams.
That's my session right there.
It had to be taken away in a hearse.
Yep, that's how hard I killed it. ;-)
The swell continued to build, as did the crowds.
This was my best day. F*#king perfect.
Six years removed from my life at the beach, I feel lucky that I still have friends and a spot in the lineup, like I must have done something right.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Barrel @ Zuma
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:11am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 10, 2014 - 10:00am PT
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So how was it?!
You got the same S Hemi down there as I got in so cal, I think.
(That backside hack is sick)
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Oct 10, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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great trip , lots of waves, cool people ( except punta roca ) unfortunatley ended a few days early when i ruptured my bicep tendon while duck- diving a large set wave. sucks to get old. backside hack by local ripper samuel , i'm the old f*#k dropping in. out of the water and off the crag for a couple of months uuuuugggg!!!!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Oct 10, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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unfortunatley ended a few days early when i ruptured my bicep tendon while duck- diving a large set wave. sucks to get old.
Uggg. So sorry to hear this, Eastside... I hope you heal up soon.
Funny story about our trip to Sano last week:
I watched Jefe surf for hours, he waving to me from the line up, me waving back from the edge of the sea,excitedly. Super helpful in figuring out which one of those wetsuits is the guy you want to watch.
Watched Jefe catch and surf some great waves, he and I "keeping in touch" from afar. I was able to figure out WHICH one he was, mainly based on how he paddled, duck-dived, and sat on his board, for long stretches at a time. I was excited for him, out there in the vast openness, respecting the power of the waves and making the most of that power. I had a great f*#king time.
Still standing on the shoreline, staring intensely at the line up, I waved my arms up in the air, waiting for Jefe to wave back, positive I had the right surfer. And as I'm waving, standing in the ocean, I hear off to my right, "Babes?", Jefe carrying his board, walking towards me, smiling.
I couldn't be more of a dork if I tried.
:)
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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Oct 10, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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solid snap above, so stoked on surfing right now as the papa buoy is blowing up.
wish everyone a safe, bountiful harvest of waves this winter. paddle with intension, deep into the bowl, and smile at the crew to share the stoke.
My son asked what my favorite toy is and I said "son, a surfboard is the best toy ever"
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 10, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Sick little wave there with you in the hook. Rad bottom turn too.
Sucks about your shoulder ESU.
Heal up soon y'hear?
Missing my friend tonight.
RIP
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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Biggest swells I can remember growing up surfing in the South Bay were the winters of 82-3 and 86. I think it was 82-3 that damaged the Hermosa and Manhattan piers, and blew out windows at the Charthouse in front of the RB Breakwall.
And sadly, saw a guy drown at the PV Cove in 86 while watching from up on the cliff.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 11, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
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18ft GW caught in the squid boat net. oct8th2014 county line
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Oct 11, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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Solid swell hitting Santa Cruz tomorrow morning! Super stoked!!!!
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