Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

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Messages 1301 - 1320 of total 1640 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bob

climber
Dec 10, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
The shark thing in Hawaii is scarey. My girlfriend is close to a family on The Big Island and one of their sons was munched recently at his home break. He's a big kid and beat the shark off and was aided by another surfer who swam back out to help.

Olaf, do you know or know of Ulu Boy Napeahi? Glad he made it!

Bob J.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2013 - 05:48pm PT

O-man; thanks for posting your own photos. Likewise all of you that post your own photos (pyro, drljefe). Esparza, was that beautiful photo from the Mentawais your own? Awesome.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 11, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
The great and legendary surfer from the Sixties and early Seventies, Wayne Lynch, has an online video about rescuing a friend in Australia while a very large GW shark was spy-hopping and circling around the two men as they slowly returned to shore on one board. Really worth digging up online. Probably the worse tale I have heard/read/seen regarding a GW shark incident where no one actually was attacked!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 11, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
Credit: Studly
Tiger shark visitation while out surfing Pakaukaulo's. Be safe O-man!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:03pm PT

Kai Lenney at the opening ceremony of 'The Eddie'
Kai Lenney at the opening ceremony of 'The Eddie'
Credit: o-man
Rumor on the beach is we have a GIANT swell heading our way and should hit our beaches on Saturday.
If this forecast is correct 'The Eddie' big wave contest at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu will probably go off this year.
I am proud of my neighbor Kai Lenny for being chosen as an alternate in this prestigious event

I wrote this in a journal while back and thought I would share it.

The ocean has been in a unique mood.

Friday morning I addressed work things for a while and then I did my morning surf check and found glassy well over head waves in my back yard. When I paddled out at about 8:00 am there were a few standup guys already out but it wasn’t crowded. There was one dude that stood in the same line as me and just paddled for every wave. He was tall and very fit looking but he just kept missing waves that I could have caught.
I finally had to tell him that if he was going to paddle for waves he should make a point of getting them.
He was so close to my line that if I got a wave that he had already initiated and we both got it, I felt that we would be too close for safety.
I was still getting some great waves and the swell getting bigger and bigger.
After about an hour I was joined by my buddy Mark.
After two hours the waves were in the solid double overhead range and all the stand up guys had gone in except my buddy Mickey Eskimo.
With just the three of us out we cloud be selective and avoid the real bombs.
We had our pick of the sweet head and a half nuggets.
After three hours we had scored a bunch of waves and the sets were starting to get erratic and the frequency and size were impossible to calculate.
On one set, Mark took off on the first wave and I took the second. His held up all the way to the right channel while mine closed out after I made the drop and got one turn resulting in me being in a very bad place.
This set was one of the biggest of the session.
Mark got to see me take the next eight waves square on the head. All I could do is just take a breath and dive for the bottom and hope that my board made it.
We both agreed that we should paddle in soon but things settled down some and we kept getting waves and the wind was only just starting to pick up.
Most of the waves were silky smooth after the first wave of the set came through.
We paddled in after four solid hours and we were STOKED!
I walked back home and took an hour break and had lunch.
I was contemplating a second session but when I walked back over to the beach the waves had gotten a lot bigger and the sets were even more erratic. I’m talking ten foot Hawaiian that’s twenty foot plus faces and that just too big for me to paddle into.

The next day I checked the surf at my local break and it was just too big.
No one was out and except one team that was towing in at Noriega’s, my local break.
I loaded my board in the back of my truck and drove to Kanaha Beach Park where the scene was much mellower.
So I thought.

Kanaha breaks about a quarter mile off shore so it can be hard to judge the size from the beach even with binoculars.
I did notice that the left channel was occasionally closing out and that told me to use caution.
When I arrived at the line up every one had a sober look about them. I went about the business of surfing.
I wasn’t having much luck.
Then I saw this set out on the horizon and I started paddling out as fast and far as I could but it just wasn’t far enough. I made it over the first wave but the second was bigger I was paddling up a gigantic dead vertical wall water and as I got to the lip it broke!
I went over the falls and the force drove me straight to the reef. When I made it back to the surface by board was snapped but was still held together by the glass in top.
I took two more waves on the head and the pounding subsided. With razor sharp fiber glass still holding the two pieces together I made the long paddle back in.

I drove back home and got another board and drove back to Kanaha and paddled back out.
By the time I got back to the line up there were only three other surfers out and they were being very cautious.
I caught some really sweet left hander’s that were in the double over head size and realistically that was the limit of my comfort zone. The only problem was that in order to get those I had to sit a bit deeper than I wanted.
Three of those a major sets rolled through and pounded the living s..t out of me.
I didn’t feel like snapping another board that day so I paddled in and called it a day.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Pipe has come up from around 3 ft to something more than ten in just the last hour and a half. Well worth watching right now as darkness slowly grows out there.

It's 6:45 pm PT. Friday evening.

The Billabong Pipe Masters will resume tomorrow there and it will be quite a bit different than it was for Rd 5 a few days ago….

http://www.vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2013


socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Congrats Mick Fanning!

charles
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
John John v. Kelly...

Charles
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 14, 2013 - 08:28pm PT



If you're bored out there:

http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2013/live
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Dec 14, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
slater ....... oh yea!
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 15, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
A quote from my friend Giampollo Cammarota
"Kelly Slater alluding to the clearly overscored wave of Mick Fanning: "that pissed me off just enough to keep me going next year"...

Well, thank god for that! 'Cause god knows how much more fun is to watch you surfing than anybody else in the world!!!!

If Fanning didn't get that nice Christmas present from the very shaky judges, I would be probably commentating about Kelly's retirement...
Uff, I feel like we all scored big time yesterday at Pipe!"

Kelly Skater 12-14-13 Pipeline <br/>
Photo captured from internet, credit?
Kelly Skater 12-14-13 Pipeline
Photo captured from internet, credit?
Credit: o-man

I must admit that I didn't watch this contest live.

I checked the the ocean out yesterday morning and it was big, but not real big.
It was big enough that (to me) it was clear that I wasn't going surfing so I chilled at home and had breakfast and did chores.

I drove out to Jaws later in the morning.
The paddle in action started early.
I missed most of it because the wind was already on it and those guys had mostly all gone in.
I did catch some tow and kite guys.
Jaws 12-14-13 <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Jaws 12-14-13
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
Jaws 12-14-13 <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Jaws 12-14-13
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man

After Jaws I stopped off at Hookipa.
There were only four guys out at Middles and they were killing it!
Hookipa 12-14-13 <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Hookipa 12-14-13
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man

After Hookipa, I moved down to Lanes and caught some of that action also.
Lanes 12-14-13 <br/>
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Lanes 12-14-13
Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man

Today was still to big in my back yard.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 15, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
you were busy Oman, as well you should be. You can always watch the contest online later after you've had your waves.

I was scandalized too by Mick's crucial wave score. It just wasn't there. Fanning is a great surfer though and a very good man from what I can tell so far removed. Friend to thousands, for sure. But he is not the astounding genius of all time that KS and JJF are, not by a long shot. Those contests and the judging of them better keep their noses clean or I should say cleaner, as we go forward. I have seen 'gimme points' for quite some time now. We see them in Dressage too, ice skating etc. It gets ridiculous and so transparent. Thank God Kelly is willing to point his finger (The Emperor Has No Clothes, would be the tale to cite here, except KS is not a child but a aging master like no other). It does nothing but help the sport and art to confront this kind of discouraging corruption, especially as surfing enters its new phase next year of approaching the general public.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 16, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Kelly gets overscored all the time.
I think because of all the hype and buildup for the title race ending at Pipe, there was extra scrutiny.
Mick's waves were sick. Was he overscored, maybe.
I was rooting for Kelly for sure but the way Mick's waves came in the dying moments of his heats, the fact that they were macking and absolutely perfect, and he rode them perfectly- he deserved those heat wins.
If the title weren't at stake and slates in the running, no one would be questioning those calls but CJ and Yadin and their mates.

The final was weird- no waves for 20 minutes. Kelly's airdrop was f*#king mental and was a contest winner, but then JJF's Backdoor tube in the final minute...talk about underscored!

Oh well. What was cool was that everyone won. Mick gets the title, JJF gets the Triple Crown, and Slates gets his 7th Pipe Masters! He got all misty and even cried a little afterward saying it was one of the best days of his life and a dream come true to surf with John John in the finals at Pipe.
Awesome.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 16, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
Do yourself a favor and put this one on full screen and turn the volume UP!
The scene with the helicopter is Kai Lenny getting air lifted out with a bad gash in his foot.
My buddy Jake Miller shot the stuff from the cliff.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 16, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits?

Yea.


Thanks O-man, you're killing me with this thread.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 16, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Thanks Wade Icey!
This thread is a group effort and I am just proud to get to contribute on the surfing side of it. I don't get to do much rock climbing these days.
I have only done three routes in the last year.
I do live in a place that I can walk to great waves so surfing is all I have to contribute these days.
After I posted that Jaws video this morning, I went and checked out the waves my back yard.
The waves had dropped down to head to head/head and a half with occasional sets approaching close to double over head.
There was absolutely no wind so it perfectly glassy.
The water was the clearest that I can remember. Not only could you vividly see the reef but whole schools of fish as well. It was almost spooky it was so clear.
I shared these conditions with three guys on SUP's. They were veteran surfers and the vibe was as good as it gets.
I got some great right's and left's with only getting worked by one set.
I had to go in after two and a half hours of paddling due to my right arm issue.
I'm icing it now and I am sure that I will feel it tomorrow but it was soo worth it!
BTW:I heard from Kai and it sounds like that cut he got at Jaws might not be as bad as we feared.
Game On!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 16, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
What is this, the surfing thread???

Credit: drljefe

O man
I really appreciate your island contributions.
Can't wait to get back and you better believe if I make it to Maui I'll be looking you up.

No betta
No betta
Credit: drljefe
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Dec 16, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
drljefe, Make that happen dude!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#335591
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 16, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Some people do both, most don't....the skill set is different, the setting more so. The psychological motivations are maybe closer. Complimentary is probably not the right term but they are not mutually exclusive.
bixquite

Social climber
humboldt nation
Dec 16, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
After paddling all winter I feel like climbing opens up my muscles and stretches out my
Back and hips. In that way when I do both they compliment each other. And with shreded
Tips and mental fatigue paddling out and staring at the horizon for a lump of pure joy sure
Is peaceful.
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