Stonemaster Stories, Part 8; More Tales from the Crypt

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rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
This here is the continuing saga of Old Dads trying to stave-off impending symptoms of Alzheimer's disease. (Memory is such a tragic thing, I think.)


The original Stonemaster Stories thread by John (Largo) Long started here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850&f=0&b=0 (208)

JL: Anyone out there with old (before, say, 1975) Stonemaster stories, I'd love to hear them as I'm slowly trying to put something together. Hearing other perspectives might help trigger some long lost memories. The Stonemasters were always as much a frame of mind as anything else, but what folks remember--especially in terms of anecdotes, or what they thought the Stonemasters actually were, or stood for--might help give some little shape to what feels like a very amorphous subject.



Stonemaster Stories (Part II) can be retraced here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0 (171)



Stonemaster Stories Part III can be retraced here (Many nice photos in this part):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=155821&f=0&b=0 (129)



It was requested to continue onward here from Part III. It was getting
too long again (very rapidly actually). Stonemaster Stories Part IV:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157408&f=0&b=0 (125)



We continue onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part V):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=161148&f=0&b=0 (150)



We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 6):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782&f=0&b=0 (126)



We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 7):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=169730&f=0&b=0 (119)



Dave Evans (a.k.a., de eee) last posted three or four black and white photos from back in the day, and said,
Here are a couple more for identification! Sorry about the fuzziness on the last one, I'm borrowing a scanner soon.


and later:

One more since Jim Wilson called me last night and reminded me of the time he led The Trough (at Bigrock) without hands and we all followed in the same style!!

And I'd still like to know who's in that shot of the Green Arch, or when it was taken... de eee?
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
And while we're talking about de eee, here's a color image of the Legend shamelessly stolen from the pages of Mountain 83--one of the first full articles about climbing at JT. Dated, Jan/Feb 1982.



Caption: Dave Evans leading on the first ascent of Swept Away (5.11a). Evans is getting prepared to drill a protection bolt on the second pitch. Photo: Vogel collection.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 29, 2006 - 01:14pm PT
Dave Evans:
That Proud effort on Swept Away and the Acid Traverse out on the Super Dome; you got some cool Josh Plums!
Those are two of my Faves.

Nice B&W's in the prior thread too-
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 29, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
Note the matching bandana and pants.....very stylish!
Keep the pic's rolling.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
The face says it all. Not only was the stance marginal, but I was using both hands to focus and shoot the picture while supposedly hip belaying at the hanging belay. DE sucked it up and drilled the bolt; a truely great effort.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:15pm PT
'Nice!
That's a "Core" Anecdote Rokjox...

L. Sketch: Thats' for sure, you look at that shot on 'Swept and think/visualize all of what you just said...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:42pm PT
we did that route in the sun on a fairly warm day, and as i recall just clippin' that bolt felt sporty!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
That's always been one of my favorite climbing photos.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 29, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
Rokjox,
By core I mean seminal or archetypal representaion.

That's a vivid image of Dale's fanatacism and draws a great picture of the shared enthusiasm of the times.
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Mar 29, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
Interestingly, the exact word that popped into my head while viewing the image of Dave on Swept Away was "archetypal" (Dave).
The face tells all.

And yeah Swept Away did feel a bit sporty, especially in this last decade!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 29, 2006 - 08:32pm PT
What about that Last Unicorn on Super Dome.
When I first saw that line I knew you guy's weren't messin' around.

Who did the first: Randy, Dave, Craig?
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Mar 30, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
Who did the first: Randy, Dave, Craig?

Yep. Still have to go out there to replace those old 1/4 inch bolts -- not that it will make the route any less sporty.
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Mar 30, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
Well Mr. Sketchy, maybe we should replace the bolts as part of our repeat acsent? I've still never done the route, always wanted to and would love to do it with ya.

Let's talk..
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
Yes Robs, the Green Arch photo was from the critical day. In my clear print it looks like it is
Tob at the belay and Ricky after falling (?).

On Last Unicorn Randy and Craig and I did the FA of the first pitch and Big Al and (?) did the second pitch.

No comments on the Serpentine photo? It was a day we Alpine Styled the route with 6 climbers on one rope. I was in lead position and Mari is visible in the foreground. I could check my records to see who the others were. I know Mo is in there somewhere and probably Craig and Randy. We did quite a few routes in that style, one of the diciest was The Step. Thank God we didn't try and belay on The Step, eh?
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Mar 30, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
I have a few more classic B&W's that I will post next week, I didn't want to shoot the whole wad at once!

Nobody ever listed the group in the Suicide shot so here it is. Top to bottom...Grammicci, Ricky, The Master (Hensel), KP, Bugle (Tim P.),and Guns just off the edge. I'll try and check to see where we were headed that day. South Face? Woodpecker?...can't say.

If I could scan slides I could really rouse some slander. Thinking of you Tarbuster. What about that night at the Zephyr Club?
Not that there is anything wrong with that!!!
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Mar 30, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
I believe Gib was belaying Tobin in the Bearded Cab shot. I have a vague memory of watching him fall pulling the belayer up, they swung together about six feet off the ground and were "dangling like clackers!"
But, it seems unlikely that Tobin would fall on a route of that difficulty and must have been another party?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 30, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
D-e-e-e-:
You mean the night at the Zephyr Club at an OR show a couple years back?

H,mmm, all I remember is you bugged out after some dancing, like you disappeared: did I have somethin' to do with that, were we like, Broke Back Dancing or Something? Better pull the pics and we'll deal with the slander fall-out...

(I just looked at the last thread, where the mass ascent simulclimb of Weeping Wall is Chronicled: those ascents were madness at its finest; I never got roped in...)
My slide scanner was $3 Bills from Costco... You owe it to us babe, pony up and start scannin'
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Mar 31, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
uh oh. dr F has arrived

well, make yourself useful and start posting up pics. tarbido needs some competition

p.s. -been meaning to tell you, sorry for giving you bunk information on your first bouldering guide
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 1, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
Dr. F,

Being the good physician that you are, you prescribed a medication for several of us (inluding Dr. Sketchy) myself and Ms. E in the Wonderland.

The medication was somewhat stimulating, disorienting and downright disturbing. You and Dr. Sketch led a couple of seemingly scary routes including the Black President and the Big Brown Eye. Ms. E and I were wondering if someone was gonna die that day, but luckily everyone survived.

My question is though, did your medication enhance your leadhead (Sketchy?), or were you as worried as those on the ground?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Apr 1, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
Hey, Craig, how about that great lead you threw down on Hyperion Arch about 50 years ago. That was one of your finest hours as I remember it.

JL
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