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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 29, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
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This here is the continuing saga of Old Dads trying to stave-off impending symptoms of Alzheimer's disease. (Memory is such a tragic thing, I think.)
The original Stonemaster Stories thread by John (Largo) Long started here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850&f=0&b=0 (208)
JL: Anyone out there with old (before, say, 1975) Stonemaster stories, I'd love to hear them as I'm slowly trying to put something together. Hearing other perspectives might help trigger some long lost memories. The Stonemasters were always as much a frame of mind as anything else, but what folks remember--especially in terms of anecdotes, or what they thought the Stonemasters actually were, or stood for--might help give some little shape to what feels like a very amorphous subject.
Stonemaster Stories (Part II) can be retraced here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0 (171)
Stonemaster Stories Part III can be retraced here (Many nice photos in this part):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=155821&f=0&b=0 (129)
It was requested to continue onward here from Part III. It was getting
too long again (very rapidly actually). Stonemaster Stories Part IV:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157408&f=0&b=0 (125)
We continue onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part V):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=161148&f=0&b=0 (150)
We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 6):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782&f=0&b=0 (126)
We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 7):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=169730&f=0&b=0 (119)
Dave Evans (a.k.a., de eee) last posted three or four black and white photos from back in the day, and said,
Here are a couple more for identification! Sorry about the fuzziness on the last one, I'm borrowing a scanner soon.
and later:
One more since Jim Wilson called me last night and reminded me of the time he led The Trough (at Bigrock) without hands and we all followed in the same style!!
And I'd still like to know who's in that shot of the Green Arch, or when it was taken... de eee?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
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And while we're talking about de eee, here's a color image of the Legend shamelessly stolen from the pages of Mountain 83--one of the first full articles about climbing at JT. Dated, Jan/Feb 1982.
Caption: Dave Evans leading on the first ascent of Swept Away (5.11a). Evans is getting prepared to drill a protection bolt on the second pitch. Photo: Vogel collection.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2006 - 01:14pm PT
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Dave Evans:
That Proud effort on Swept Away and the Acid Traverse out on the Super Dome; you got some cool Josh Plums!
Those are two of my Faves.
Nice B&W's in the prior thread too-
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 29, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
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Note the matching bandana and pants.....very stylish!
Keep the pic's rolling.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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The face says it all. Not only was the stance marginal, but I was using both hands to focus and shoot the picture while supposedly hip belaying at the hanging belay. DE sucked it up and drilled the bolt; a truely great effort.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:15pm PT
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'Nice!
That's a "Core" Anecdote Rokjox...
L. Sketch: Thats' for sure, you look at that shot on 'Swept and think/visualize all of what you just said...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:42pm PT
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we did that route in the sun on a fairly warm day, and as i recall just clippin' that bolt felt sporty!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
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That's always been one of my favorite climbing photos.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
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Rokjox,
By core I mean seminal or archetypal representaion.
That's a vivid image of Dale's fanatacism and draws a great picture of the shared enthusiasm of the times.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 29, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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Interestingly, the exact word that popped into my head while viewing the image of Dave on Swept Away was "archetypal" (Dave).
The face tells all.
And yeah Swept Away did feel a bit sporty, especially in this last decade!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 29, 2006 - 08:32pm PT
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What about that Last Unicorn on Super Dome.
When I first saw that line I knew you guy's weren't messin' around.
Who did the first: Randy, Dave, Craig?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 30, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
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Who did the first: Randy, Dave, Craig?
Yep. Still have to go out there to replace those old 1/4 inch bolts -- not that it will make the route any less sporty.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 30, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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Well Mr. Sketchy, maybe we should replace the bolts as part of our repeat acsent? I've still never done the route, always wanted to and would love to do it with ya.
Let's talk..
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 30, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
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Yes Robs, the Green Arch photo was from the critical day. In my clear print it looks like it is
Tob at the belay and Ricky after falling (?).
On Last Unicorn Randy and Craig and I did the FA of the first pitch and Big Al and (?) did the second pitch.
No comments on the Serpentine photo? It was a day we Alpine Styled the route with 6 climbers on one rope. I was in lead position and Mari is visible in the foreground. I could check my records to see who the others were. I know Mo is in there somewhere and probably Craig and Randy. We did quite a few routes in that style, one of the diciest was The Step. Thank God we didn't try and belay on The Step, eh?
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 30, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
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I have a few more classic B&W's that I will post next week, I didn't want to shoot the whole wad at once!
Nobody ever listed the group in the Suicide shot so here it is. Top to bottom...Grammicci, Ricky, The Master (Hensel), KP, Bugle (Tim P.),and Guns just off the edge. I'll try and check to see where we were headed that day. South Face? Woodpecker?...can't say.
If I could scan slides I could really rouse some slander. Thinking of you Tarbuster. What about that night at the Zephyr Club?
Not that there is anything wrong with that!!!
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 30, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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I believe Gib was belaying Tobin in the Bearded Cab shot. I have a vague memory of watching him fall pulling the belayer up, they swung together about six feet off the ground and were "dangling like clackers!"
But, it seems unlikely that Tobin would fall on a route of that difficulty and must have been another party?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 30, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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D-e-e-e-:
You mean the night at the Zephyr Club at an OR show a couple years back?
H,mmm, all I remember is you bugged out after some dancing, like you disappeared: did I have somethin' to do with that, were we like, Broke Back Dancing or Something? Better pull the pics and we'll deal with the slander fall-out...
(I just looked at the last thread, where the mass ascent simulclimb of Weeping Wall is Chronicled: those ascents were madness at its finest; I never got roped in...)
My slide scanner was $3 Bills from Costco... You owe it to us babe, pony up and start scannin'
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Dr. F,
Being the good physician that you are, you prescribed a medication for several of us (inluding Dr. Sketchy) myself and Ms. E in the Wonderland.
The medication was somewhat stimulating, disorienting and downright disturbing. You and Dr. Sketch led a couple of seemingly scary routes including the Black President and the Big Brown Eye. Ms. E and I were wondering if someone was gonna die that day, but luckily everyone survived.
My question is though, did your medication enhance your leadhead (Sketchy?), or were you as worried as those on the ground?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Hey, Craig, how about that great lead you threw down on Hyperion Arch about 50 years ago. That was one of your finest hours as I remember it.
JL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Stonemasters-
Can you all please help with saving Santee Boulders and preserving the climbing history? It is such a wonderful resource to the community. I know you all have history at this great location. Thank you.
See this thread:
"Saving Santee Boulders and it's History . . ."
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=174560
Klimmer
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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And Craig, I don't have a problem with your adding a lower first bolt to Such A Savage to prevent anyone from getting hurt.
But, let's make sure it goes in on the lead.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Time for a photo... Found this one among the archives, on the stylish little facet called "Quarter Pebble" at Rubidoux. With its cute little one-handers.
And speaking of stylish, not only did we wear the short shorts, but (apparently) the Real Men could also wear pink! Nice pantaloons, Ricky. And, that's either Bartlett, or maybe Troy? Or?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2006 - 10:02am PT
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One more at the "Quarter Pebble", this time showing the rare views of Mt. San Jacinto (and sometimes Tahquitz) that could be had on the clear days...
And how many times can you remember when you couldn't even see your car at the base of Rubidoux because of the smog?
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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You guys have on some old Boreal boots! mid 80's vintage
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HighGravity
climber
Riverside, CA
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The only problem is all the paint on there now, to "cover" the graffiti.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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How about those shoes?
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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??
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Craig, regarding new bolts on old classics, you must agree that special things (like bold leads) are best untampered with and undamaged by new users.
As Royal and Yvon so elequently taught us in our youth, let's not lower the climb to the lowest "common denominator." If we buy into the mentality of making everything safe anmd easy for everyone, we'll see paved roads in every wilderness and bolt lines up every spiritual trad route.
Get back to your roots man, get a little scared and it might be good for ya.
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Murf
climber
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Dr. F,
One day I might actually get the sack to see what that insane FA guy was up to, maybe find out how common I am or am not. If I absolutely had to climb The Edge/TF, I can TR it safely *at any time*.
For what its worth, I enjoyed the deep breath I took about halfway up to the first bolt of Such a Savage. If it was left just as you and Hashbro did it orginally, I think that would be a good thing as well.
Cheers,
Murf
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Fellers,
As far as what may or may not have happened in the past, I believe that a psychic "statute of limitations" exists (consult. RV?). We must let go and chalk it all up to good fun, and we're still friends.
Besides, where would all the good slander have come from if this sh#t hadn't happened?
Dr. F, it's obvious that you are simply trying to be controversial, which is sometimes yer nature.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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who was it that dubbed the good doctor "rookie of the year" back in '76 or '77? Largo?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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The run-out up to the first bolt on Such a Savage in no longer mandatory....there is a Gaine's variation, that goes up left of Such a Savage, and you can traverse in to Such a Savage from this variation....and it is well protected.....I think this is the way many parties go now-a-days........AND Such a Savage is still an AWESOME route (probably the best on the So. Astrodome....my favorite , anyways....)....AND you can STILL go the run-out original way........complete with it's pine needles, tree sap, and slippery dangerous run-out...............We need to go back and add a bolt to Zorba, don't we ?.....Tobin wasn't the only one who did "psycho" run outs......THAT one freaked me out.......maybe Murf would enjoy this potentially ankle breaking climb too?......sure got Dr. F 's adrenelin flowing, and made my heart skip a beat or 3...............How did we survive our youth???......Awesome lead, by the way, Dr. F..........)
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Hey Dr. F, wasn't that Boogleman that went for it on Zorba?????
Hmm.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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D E E....it's wasn't Chuckles on the F A of Zorba....it was Dr. F. and myself....and the reason Dr. F. ran it out was'nt because he "couldn't stop and drill"..(Dr. F. has forgotten after all of these years......MY mind still remembers the whole situation, and JUST what went down.....I was there..)...it was because, at the crux, it was so difficult, that Dr. F. took most of the rack off, to lighten up.........he took off all the trad gear, and just went up with a hammer, bolt kit, and a few bolts........the now lighter in weight Dr. F immediately sends the 5.11 section no problem, climbs WAY up, finally gets to a stance to drill.......I'll be go to hell......he has the hammer, bolts,.....but danm......left the drill with the trad gear.......can't down climb the run-out and the 5.11 section......time to suck the balls up and mad-dog it to the top.........it was an insane run-out......done not because he was trying to be rad....it was done because he had no other choice.....(I suppose he could have down climbed and jumped off the 5.11 section and only broke both of his ankles......that was his other option)........in the end, he made it, and I followed, and I couldn't believe how hard and run out it was......................it blew my mind..............(Now I wonder if the hallucinigens he took before the climb had anything to do with him forgetting the drill????one never knows.............)....Better go hop on Zorba, and have the FULL Dr. F. experience before some conservative light-weight gym geek retros the thing into vanilla pudding........and don't even THINK about doing the climb WITHOUT the hallucinigens.....or you will not have the same experience as the first ascentionist...........it would be a total waste of time any other way.........(Ready to step up to the plate, Murf??)......Once again....awesome lead, Dr. F......one of the best I ever saw you do.................(And the colors must have been incredible too........)
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Careful DE, Craig might get upset then go home and kick his turtle. By the way I think I took the butt shot photo of you and RV on Swept Away. Steve tapes and I happened to be wondering around Echo and you guys asked me to take a photo for you. I think that was the first climbing photo I ever took. At the time we thought you guys were climbing gods, you guys played up on that regailing us with tales FAs and 5.11s. RV especialy.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Let the slander begin!
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Like Largo always said, "Never let the truth get in the way of a good story"
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Murf
climber
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Todd - It's doubtful that any sort "medicine" will get me onto Zorba. I'm weak sauce, I know. Retro bolting it will make sure I don't get on Zorba, I'd be on something else, wouldn't I?
In any case, I'm out of my depth in these waters...
Continue on Stonemaster's...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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Craig said, "Why can't we just put in a bolt every 8-12 feet."
Oh, dear. Don't let Henny hear you say that about The Edge, man. (I refer you way, way up-thread, and you should also take a look at The Edge elsewhere in this Forum.)
Speaking of slippery slopes... Yer on one, Dr. F., and it ain't slopin' upwards. (Devil's Advocate: Nah. People shouldn't have to face a potential 16- or 24-footer. My God! Why not put the bolts even closer, so that people can "enjoy" the route with a maximum of 8' of fall? Huh? Sure. Bolt up the Edge, every four feet. But you don't have to clip the bolts!)
Please don't feed the troll.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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My Baja trip is postponed so the party IS ON!
Yes lets sport bolt everything AND make The RADS slow, lowest common denominator!
Just kidding.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Tapes, does that mean you don't consider us climbing gods anymore? I'm crushed.
OK Murf, lets power up the drill -- Zorba here we come.
Craig, DE (and Marge) are coming...Dave had some silly idea about a motorcycle trip in Baja getting in the way...he has since come to his senses.
Maybe he figured out -- be there or be slandered.
DPH (remember those initials on those homemade hangers) just called to confirm too.
Craig, if you're nice, I'll bring a new guide for you....
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Sketchy, it's be there AND be slandered.
And BRAVO on the guide!! It is a magnificent tome. Your greatest effort ever, thanks so much, inspiration has returned.
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Sorry Randy, now your just a climbing mortal. By the way a moto ride in Baja is never silly. This was last saturday! 100 miles of riding deserted beaches and we didn't see anyone else. When was the last time you could say that about Josh or just about any climbing area for that matter.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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That's what I'm talkin' about!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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A lot of people really stepped up to the plate to make these new series of guides possible; anything that is right about it (them) is because of people like DE, TG, Dimes (and a lot of other people --some on this forum)..... and even the gracious Dr.F were kind enough to help clear things up.
Not to say riding moto-cycles is silly, just missing this to ride moto-cycles is. The beaches will always be there, this is a one off.
BTW, there are a number of places I've been over the last couple years in Josh where you never see anyone and the climbing is too good to believe.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Never seen another sole when out at this formation and the climbing is pretty sweet too:
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Speaking of Last Unicorn, I remember when we first stumbled across this formation, to our addled brains, it looked about the size of the South Face of Half Dome. Upon closer inspection, it experienced a classic case Incredible Shrinking Josh Syndrome (ISJS).
Check out Route D. The traversing gap between the 1st "x" and 2nd "x" is the famed DE runnout.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i notice in your pic last unicorn is up to 11a now? i think it was 10d last time i checked (mid-80's)?? you're disappointing me, sketch. josh is alla bout sandbags, dontcha know??
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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How odd, cuz Dr. Sketchy is one of the top sandbaggers of all time!
"Let the slander begin".....
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todd-gordon
climber
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Maybe Tapes thought D E E and crew were climbing gods when he first met them... but Tapes was stronger and bolder then most climbers of the day......when I climbed with Tapes, he did the rad leads and I took the top-rope.....(Damn... another person to add to my list I was a sub-man for.....)
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todd-gordon
climber
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If Dr. F. wants to add a bolt or two to his OWN first ascents to make them so they are not ankle breakers.... good on him.....HIS call...(Not yours.....)....now about bolting The Edge.....I don't think so........Unless Tobin were still with us and HE decided that is what he would like the route to morph to.......good on HIM.....(Sorry.. aint' gonna happen...)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i got my crowbar sharpened and i'm ready to fulcrum any interloper steel right outta tha sacred monzonite.
if i had to hang it out there, then by god so will these punk gym-rat sport-climber weenie roast wannabes.
the 70's are dead. long live the '70's.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Hey Wonderly, good to see the photos from Baja! Man I got some OLD slides of you on a Cook Bro's bike out at josh, riding trials in the CG. Take care bro!
Peace
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Ron, If you have shots of Dave on his bike -- doing trials stuff all over HVCG -- post up. I doubt I'm the only one who would like to see these.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Tapes, good to see ya on line dude...
Quiz question: How do you spell sandbagger? R-A-N-D-Y V-O-G-E-L
Yes, RV is the absolute, and final, definition of the word. I know of no other way to say it.
DE, what could you have been thinking? You will be talked about, whether you're there or not. At least if you're there you'll have some kind of chance to defend yourself. Won't help much, but at least you'll have a chance...
I have a suggestion/request. The ethical debate (or troll?) about retro bolting is hardly in the spirit of this thread, and if allowed to continue here it will detract from the experience (at least from my perspective). If someone feels that the debate should be pursued perhaps they could start a seperate thread for the topic. Thanks...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Largo: Dude, I just know you're lurking out there somewhere... Post us a story. I'm craving a fix. Way, way back you promised us a story about Piasano Overhang that I still haven't seen. So get that uni-wheel turning and post up... Or was that promise akin to the infamous Gramicci promise of an "Exhibit R" post. Which, by the way, I'm also still waiting for... Gramicci???? Promises, promises...
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Henman,
Thanks for concurring on the defination of a sandbagger (spelled RV).
As far as Dr. F and his provocation regarding retrobolting, I suspect his brain chemistry is a bit imbalanced these days with too much time spent in the horizontal postion and nowhere near enough time in the vertical. Hopefully that will change after mid April.
"Let the slander begin"....
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Well this lurker finaly came out of the closet. It took me like three weeks to get through the entire thread. I have to say that it was very entertaining. I've got a personal Largo story since that is sort of how this tread started.
One day at Josh maybe in 79 there was a TR hanging on the Left Ski Track. I don't remeber who led it but John was there among others. I was hanging around hoping for scraps when big John tells me to give it a go. Now at the time I had never done a 5.11 so the pressure was on. John was belaying me with one hand on the rope what we used to call a "Largo belay". I'm up there hanging on for dear life ready to give up, but no, John starts yelling at me to GO GO GO. In the face of this I couldn't just give up and was able to scrape my way through the crux. I wonder how many others have been yelled up a climb by big John over the years. I bet most on this thread have had a similar experience with him.
By the way I think DE's trip has folded due to flaky partners, so expect to see him soon.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Through the wonder of the internet I find that Sibylle is alive, well, writing and climbing.
http://funclimbsaroundtheworld.com/
I encouraged her to post here. Maybe one of you can persuade her. DE, I was told it was you and Sibylle I saw topping out on Keeler in late July or early August 1977.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Thanks Dave, I think I'll post a Largo story also, now that you have, and the slander has begun.
Back in 1977, 1978 or(something) I was bouldering in around camp 4 with largo and a few other locals and this young fellow walks up and announces to John that he has some strong herb he'd donate to the group. John immediately volunteers to roll one up and we all scurry over to Bridwell's tent for the procedure.
Bridwell is home, and we all make space for ourselves onm the dirt floor. John grab's a porn mag off a pile of periodicals and begins to break up a huge bud out of the young climbers little bag. Once Largo had rolled the massive splif, he announces he will do the honors and light the thing up.
At that moment, Largo takes the large pile of unused herb on the porn and tosses the entire load into the soil outside of the tent.
The young newby looks on in amazement, his $20 dollar bag gone, as we all get wasted and head back to the boulders. Largo has never been a man to worry about small amounts of anything!
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Yes John, it was the end of the second week of July '77, second free ascent. Did we talk to you that day? Seems like I remember snow flurries as we hit the summit of Whitney on the way down? I've never forgiven myself for not having a camera that day. Murph's shots of The Red Dihedral reminded me.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Dave, did Largo give you some bad beta (otherwise known as a sandbag)?
Nothing unusual about that!
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Yup, snow flurries in the afternoon. I've got a shot of Ed standing by the tent in his cagoule looking worried. But it cleared up and we had four days of spectacular weather. I don't think we met your guys. I would remember that. But we were there to do the same thing and someone told us it was you and Sib who were up there when we arrived.
Had no idea yours was the second ascent. That makes us the third. Rowell's article in Outside was about a year old at that time. We didn't have a topo, or anything else. Just knew that it went up the left side. We third classed Whitney East Face to acclimate. Next day we did Day Needle, free, not traversing off to the left, but going up the way that Burns and Porcella later went, up a steep, fluted face. The next day we did Keeler, but not in a day. We bivvied on that shoulder above the 4th/5.easy pitches, one long one below the Red Dihedral. Incredible sunrise. One of my all time great climbing memories. I gotta get me a scanner.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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ok people. let there be peace in mississippi. group hug?
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Jeff-Yes I used to wear cutom made climbing tennis shoes. My foot wouldn't fit in EBs. I went to a local shoe repairman and selected some generic black rubber from his collection and had him put that on the bottom of running shoes. They worked well but wore out fast, I think I would get about 4 Josh weekends out of each resole. I'm still waiting for those royalty checks from Charles.
Hashbro-I'm sure I was sandbaged but there wasn't much beta flowing just a lot of Ho Mans and keep going from John. I was pretty stoked when it was over.
One other thing, I remember that most of us called you "Stonemasters" "The Hotties" most of the time. Though in todays lingo that would have only applied to Little Linnie.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
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And bvb said, "let there be peace in mississippi."
Or at least peace in the Alabamas:
Robert Bolton, esq., not too long ago. The King of Slander™.
And Vanbelle also said, "group hug?"
Are you outa your mind?! Imagine the possibilities, should a photo of that ever surface!
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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John, we were actually going in to do the big face on Mt. Hale which we knew even less about (less than zero?). About half way into the hike I had a revelation that Keeler probably wasn't any harder than Hale AND a shorter hike. So, mid hike we switched plans to Keeler (which had been a dream of mine since the cover shot on Ascent mag.) and set up camp at the tarn at the base at 12,000'+. We acclimatized by spending the next day reading and ..uh.. other stuff. It took us 9 hrs. to climb the 18 pitches, 15 of which I led. I botched it slightly nearing the top and ended up missing the spectacular inverted flying buttress ledge where the classic cover photo was taken.
Richard Harrison and Jay Smith did it a week or so later.
I had been in to Keeler with Robs Muir a couple years earlier. On that occasion we tried an FA starting on the right side. I wasn't ready for that type of outing at the time so Robs and I only did a pitch or two before I convinced him to bail.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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Actually, Dave, it wasn't an FA attempt on Keeler... As I remember it, our goal was a repeat of the Direct East Face (which, at that time, had only been done in Winter). We hauled the MASSIVE big wall rack up to the base, and were nearly gassed just to get the tent pitched that night. (It probably didn't help that you had imbibed some interesting pharmacologicals that day, or that we were lugging 70+ lb. packs at 12,000' having just driven from sea level.) And, since neither of us had been up there before, we didn't know the approach. (Remember walking DIRECTLY up the watershed until we got to the second water crossing that the modern trail now intercepts?)
I recall fixing one pitch, and you woke-up the following AM quite mountain sick. We cleaned the wall, and I took that opportunity to solo the East Face on Whitney before we walked out. T'was my first time on that summit. Still had to walk out with the huge pig though...
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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DE, re: Keeler. Ed Connor and I were on a roll. We met in the Valley, where I had already been climbing for five or six weeks. We went to Tuolumne and climbed for a week or two, then spent a couple of days at Pine Creek, Pratt's Crack, etc, and the Smokestack. After that we figured we were ready for Keeler.
That picture on the cover of the '72 (?) Ascent inspired a lot of us! I have a slide of that I used in my slide show. (Giving credit to Rowell, of course!) And it was not at all obvious how to get to that ledge from below. When you get to the big ledge covered with debris (P 16?), if you look up and right at the skyline, you'll see a faint rail leading out right. Improbable as hell, but easy when you get to it. Around the corner is that famous ledge with 1700' of exposure, and a clean hand crack or two leading up from there. Nice!
But our shot of the ledge is anticlimactic: by the time we got there, it was in the shade. We wanted to free the Direct on Whitney too, but ran out of food, and motivation.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Yes Robs, and that trail was not as well defined as it is now. It was a BRUTAL bushwack.
Although there were no pharmacologicals, it was a thick paste derived from a northern Mexican cactus.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2006 - 07:35pm PT
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Back in the Day, Gramicci got quite hooked (for a time) juggling. For a while there, Ski Mart was filled with young punks throwing three, four and (eventually) five objects of various sizes across the room. (It fit pretty-well with our other diversions, such as the hacky-sack and the slackwire.) And Largo and I can tell stories about tossing sharp kitchen knives back and forth down on Balboa Pennisula. Circus freaks, all.
Had we really worked at it, we could have maybe gotten as dialed as this guy... Check this out:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4776181634656145640 (Flash required. Sorry.)
This guy is well and truly in the Zone!
(Plus, his choice of music neatly ties this all back into the Stonemaster Pre-1975 discussion. And, of course, there's the hook back to de eee and I humping loads up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek... Boy, you're going to carry that weight, carry that weight a long time. See... It all fits.)
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2006 - 09:35am PT
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OK, de eee. I stand corrected. ...should have said psychopharmacologicals.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Poaching routes.....(Snagging someone else's project , idea, line, or climb before they finish, start, complete or get a change to complete)......it CAN be irritating.....but not as irratating as getting your routes chopped........BUT actually.....both of these events don't happen that often, and, fortunately......climbs are like streetcars.....wait long enough and another one comes by sooner or later......move on to the millions of other unclimbed routes, and let the punks stew in their own spew........route poachers and bolt chopper are mostly lazy and find someone else to bother quickly....
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TC
Social climber
No matter where you go, there you are.
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Dr. F
Let'r rip. It's all part of the never ending story. You're not slandering and purging is a good thing.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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thread drift: I've been a lurker in this long-assed thread since it began. But since Largo started this rig, I suspect he needs a few more shots of him on here.
The Man
The Mission
Ho Man, the Dude
sorry for the large size, I'll shrink em now
I reduced em at photobucket but it doesn't seem to take effect to fast. Hmmm might have to redo the shots
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Since we are baring our souls here...
Here's what I recollect about old Guns' (aka Dr.F, Kinfeblade, Crag, Monty Montego, etc.) beef -- poaching. Having spotted a new line on the Astro Domes, I head out with DE, Guns and Hashbro to check it out. Think DE drills the 1st bolt, its late and we leave.
DE and I return next week or so and finish the rig (Figures On A Landscape -- aka Monkey On My Back [another story]), sans Crag and Spencer. Spencer (as per his personality) takes it all in stride; Knifeblade however seems more than just a little bent.
Crag and Stahls mention some new crags (the Bighorn Dome area) which they had scoped out. I went out with someone else and started up Poaching Bighorn, late in day. Get up near top of corner, run out of light, leave a stopper and bail. Crag apparently still PO'd returns and climbs the thing bagging stopper. [Seems I bagged a stopper on Paradise Lost on MCR that Crag left as a bail that year -- which seems poetic in some way]
I'm not happy (Poaching Bighorn is a classic), but frankly, after 25+ years, who gives a damn. Apparently someone does.
The Poodle Smasher area is not involved in this little "drama" at all (totally different time frame), but apparently these things get all muddled up when they stew for years.
We were all young and full of piss, vinegar and youthful angst (I was no picnic). In more recent times, I'm in it for the fun, new friends, old friends, try to live and let live and can only hope that others feel the same way -- most do.
Now that we have dispensed with that sordid tale...
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Houser and I were looking at putting routes up on the back of N. Astrodome. Houser isn't around the next weekend but Laeger is, so we go bag 'Lead us not into temptation' which is exactly what Herb did to me. On the walk back out we pass what is to become 'An eye for an eye, a route for a route' and Herb comments on wanting to do it. Well Dave and I have been looking at it too so the next weekend Dave is around but Herb isn't so we go put it up and Dave picks a particularly apt name. It's all in fun for us though, nobody got bent from any of those shenanigans. There were so many lines to put up that it was all good.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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damn. never realized you guys were such drama queens back then. me and my posse, we just lurked around bagging 5.12's, highball B1's, and smoking loads.
so....which one of you guy is wearing the tiara? heh. heh.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Dr. F, I urge you to take a very deep breath or BVB will ask all of us what tiara we are wearing.
These events you mention were far too long ago for me to remember , and besides which I personally don't care. Go ahead, steal my route, just don't make me live in Orange county again.
Shall we have a group hug now?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Now back to your regularly scheduled reality...
I'm off to Mussypotamia -- just your normal drug addled crowd over there.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Whew! Thanks Mike, things were getting tense!
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Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?
Trad climber
Pollack Pines
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Dec 17, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
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I heard that a group of ex-stonemasters had started a new website. The rumors flying by suggested the site was sorta "alternative."
Is this true?
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Dec 17, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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There’s no alternative to Super Topo but feel free visit and join. Everybody has a story and we want to hear it. We’ve been collecting some good ones
The Stonemaster Site
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:16am PT
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bumping this thread so folks post here instead of the recently bumped part 6
Post up masterstoners!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 24, 2008 - 03:46am PT
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When are the shorts coming out?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 16, 2013 - 01:15am PT
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bump
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Leeper
Sport climber
San Diego
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Feb 27, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
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I started climbing in 1956 in the mission gorge area. I was just reading over some of the posts and saw some old friends names.
I just wanted to post that Thomas Compare passed away January, 2014. He was living in Seattle. He put on the very first Great western bouldering championships when he owned A Striving After Wind climbing store in P.B. he also had several first ascents in the 70's as well. I do not know if he is remembered or not, but he was part of the climbing scene in that time frame.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Oh, I remember Tom, though he was more legendary elder than member of our unruly bunch a decade younger than he was. I bought my first "real" harness at A Striving After Wind, a green seat belt webbing swami that was a step up from the old bowline on a coil. I'm sorry to hear of his passing, seems a little early to me. Never Intended was a brutally hard TR at the Gorge, and though Waiting For Bruce only gets one star on Mountain Project, I thought it was more entertaining than that. I think we came up there later the same day Tom put that one up and got to do an early repeat.
Edited to add a photo (cause everyone loves a photo) of Your Lead circa 1977, a fair representation of those days, crackly memory included as special effect. Compare's Waiting for Bruce is just to the left.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Feb 27, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
Dec 17, 2007 - 11:04am PT
There’s no alternative to Super Topo but feel free visit and join. Everybody has a story and we want to hear it. We’ve been collecting some good ones
The Stonemaster Site
$78 bucks for pants?
$28 for a t-shirt?
That is obnoxious.
Bring back the $30 Gramicci shorts and maybe I'll buy climbing specific clothes again.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
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Its small output domestic clothing production, of course its not priced like low quality goods sewn by underage workers in oppressive regime countries, which is what you have come to consider normal. It's not obnoxious, its just the facts. Have you ever tried to make a living sewing clothing? I have, and there's a reason I'm a general contractor now.
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Leeper
Sport climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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Joshua Johnson:
I climbed in the Mission Gorge area twice at different times. The first time was in the late 50’s around 1956 to 1960. I found an old climbing guide that Werner Landry published in 1973 and it had a lot of names that I remembering from the 50’s. I was very young and could not join the Serra Club climbing section but they let me hang around and climb with tem. I grew up in Coronado and there were several climber living there at that time. They would let me catch a ride out to the Gorge when ever they had a climbing get together. They let me take the then required climbing test to be a member of the group. The test climb was on the Stairs a 5.3, I had to climb it as a lead and install pitons that would be tested by one of the members who would climb and clean the route.
Now remember the best shoe we used were old basket ball high tops a size or tow small. They worked ok back then. Some of the guys had fancy climbing boots as well.
One of the most remediable get together was the weeks end we all got together in Coronado at Bud Bernard’s shop that was then down by the old ferry landing. We spent the entire weekend making pitons and angles for the first accent of Half Dome that Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick and Royal Robins were planning (1957). It was Omar Conger who showed me how to use the forge and shape the pitons. What a great time for a troubled teenager. I remember shaping a piton that had a lot like a spoon and Jerry looked at it and told me to make a bunch more just like it. So my only claim to fame is that I may have some old hand made pitons still in place on Half Dooms front face. Back then we made almost all of or own gear.
I came back to the gorge in the 70’s, I was just hiking up to sit and remember things from the past and ran into Marty Warner and his friends. We talked about my old times for awhile and they invited me to give it a go again. So I came into a much changed world of climbing. I really liked the no piton use rule and I began to make my own chocks and nuts. We used to go to Tahquitz and or Joshua Tree almost every weekend it was fun climbing in both of those spots. I think that I stopped climbing when Thomas left for Seattle to find a different style of life and Marty left for Arizona to work and climb. I know that he did a lot of first accents, but I can not find any record of him. In those days we just climbed with out regard for first or 100th accent. I know that I did several first accent, but who cares it was all about the climb.
I have gone on way to long, so I will just finish up with this page of words all started because I lost a very good friend and climbing partner and was just in a remembering mood. I can only wish for all you young climbers to find as much friendships and good times as I remember, when you are 74 years old.
Belay Off
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Leeper
Sport climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
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Off White:
Thanks for remembering Thomas, I do not think that there are to many folks left in the area who would remember him. He worked very hard to make his climbing shop a success, but there were two other big sporting goods stores that also carried climbing gear. Stanley Anderson down town and the A16 El Cajon store. That is a really great picture I like that it is in black and white it sets an old time mood.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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I have gone on way to long
No, I don't think so.
I find posts like that great reading, so much better than the standard nonsense on this site. There are many of us who are interested in exactly this sort of thing. After all, the past did influence what the present is. Those of us who have an interest in the history of climbing also like hearing the experiences and observations of those before us.
I would love to see a picture of one of the spoon shaped pins. Great stuff to hear about. I can relate to that in a small way, I remember spending time in my shop class making my own passive gear. Funny how there are some aspects of the climbing experience that seem to completely transcend any given generation.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
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Leeper, I'm with Henny, you haven't gone on too long at all. This sort of real historical connection to the folks who were actually there is the most important piece of Supertopo for me, capturing first hand reports from ephemeral essentially underground history is difficult, and this site is a repository for a lot of that. Thank you so much for your posts, and I can only wish I'd met you back when I lived down there and got your stories in person.
The Stairs was in my experience the first lead for anyone at the Gorge, and I had a peculiar Ny-Chock nylon nut on webbing, sort of like a larger peck nut made out of black plastic, that was the perfect piece to place as you moved around the arete to the left on that route. Memory is fuzzy, but I think its likely that was my first lead too, circa early 1974.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 28, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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Leeper.... thank you for posting up that story.
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