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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 21, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Was reading the wonderful thread on "Hoodwink" and the ethics debates of the time. The use of pot on the the FA got me to thinking of pots place in climbing and the fa's of slab climbs of the 70's. And since I regard a lot of those climbs to be some of the greatest mental challenges a climber can face, I wonder about pots place in them. I remember meeting a climber from Tahoe who put up most of my favorite lines there and he said all of them were put up stoned, otherwise he would have been too scared to do them.
I try to do these climbs on site, and have never smoked so I'm usually scared shi*less on them but love the rush of doing it. Not here to judge as I'm sure some climbs were put up strait, others not. There are many here who were there in the day. Your thoughts?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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The Bird (on Hoodwink) might have been stoned on something other than ganja.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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There is an article in an earlier Alpinist that discusses this.
I'd have to be more used to it than I am now, to climb while dosed though.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Also, it makes it easier to just visualize that the nano-scopic mineral that you are stepping up on is actually quite a large foothold, and to focus intently on the immediate area to the exclusion of the sea of blankness in which you are adrift.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
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Performance enhancing substance?
The Olympic committees think so.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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How about beers? I have done onsights in both conditions. Helps a bit, especially to quell the snaileye...
EDIT: I recently had half of my crew, who were belaying me on an onsight, giggling like school-girls because they were shrooming. I do not recommend leading with with a giggling, shrooming belayer.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 21, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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These are a few of my favorite things...
nicely put mongrel.
+1 for the zen state of belief slab requires.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Good point Kalimon....Should read "stoned" instead of pot..please carry on. Too funny mongrel.....
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 21, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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Back in the '70s I used to free-solo all kinds of slabs with the help of some ganja...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Heh, this reminds me a of fun day on the Apron in July '77. The Scumbags (Off White, Guy Andrews, Galen Kirkwood, me, Mike Paul, and I think maybe "Flower" DeBell) were doing a mass assault on Hoppy's Favorite (or was it The Mouth? The one with a full-length 5.9 pitch with one bolt, where your EB's made that marvelous squeaking sound on the polish) and there were I guess 5 or 6 of us climbing in a giant group. We smoked up at every belay, and I do mean EVERY belay. We we loud, young, exuberant, had Apron climbing ruthlessly dialed and were having the time of our lives. A perfect day, back when a single 1/4 inch bolt and a couple of #2 stoppers seemed like a perfectly bomber belay.
A party of two women (a rare sight back then) were on an adjacent route and wordlessly observed our travelling circus for as long as they could stand it, then one of them snapped and yelled over to us "Jesus! They should make you people get licenses before they climb!" Or words to that effect. They were joking of course, and we all howled with laughter. What a great memory.
Good times! I bet Off White has a photo or two of that marvelous debacle in his archives somwhere...
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hossjulia
Social climber
Eastside (of the Tetons)
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Jan 21, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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back in the 70's the pot was a lot weaker....'jus sayin. I never could climb fer sh#t on the stuff, bitd or not.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 22, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Weed is weed........
Good strong buddy of mine used to spin a fatty at the base of many famous routes in RMNP and Edlo up The Naked Edge rating and Vertigo...........
He's still alive, doesn't burn up anymore and still solo's
So go figure........
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 22, 2012 - 08:50am PT
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BITD I used free-solo laps on the Great White Book. I had an old tape deck in a fanny pack with some Jimi Hendrix blasting, toked a couple of doobies at the base, and then carried an open can of beer all the way up the climb. It was always interesting passing other parties. (:
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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My first visit to Yosemite in 1978 was a complete revelation to a naîve young Brit. I can remember clearly (which is more than most of my friends) standing at the bottom of the Apron watching two Americans ready themselves for, I think, Ankles Away (have I got that right?). The leader was sucking vast quantities of something from a small clay pipe and holding it in his lungs... When his eyes were glazed enough, he set off up the pitch like a rocket, hardly noticing any of the moves... but as he neared the belay slowed dramatically until he was stationary, at which point he turned and said to his partner 'guess I shoulda smoked another bowl...' The final couple of moves involved more time than the rest of the pitch, and much shaking.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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good show rox. i liked that, essay.
..' iam your father.."
all good stories, fellas.
i never smoke when climbing.
i don't rarely smoke, period.
all my stoner friends say that im already there.
god sent me here stoned.
i must have paid her well before i departed her company.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:20am PT
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me and mucci and clance were drinking up breakfast beers
in hidden valley camp, bullshittin thru;
a tiny solar charged ghetto-blasting out the classics,
we stroll over to intersection and mucci has
eyes for the flake, only just before we bust
the squat start,
a fella and his dog march up in front of us.
im thinking that he's trying to steel the route right
off our face, and that his partner will soon show.
i mutter quietly to mucci,
"you want me to take him down?"
but josh doesn't reply,
instead he extends introduction and kindness at this man.
i stand quiet and forget all social gratuities,
and dive back into my can,
a minute or two later i realize that we're all chilin
and i completely missed my que for an introduction
so im the endless-nameless fella of the crew, so i rebound,
"hey. my parents never gave me a name at birth. they were
horrible at compromise and they couldn't agree at something
to hang around my neck. so i don't have a name and that's why
i don't have a proper introduction."
the fella, who never was trying to hole-shot our pitch, says,
"well, you are Blond #2."
"thanks", say's i.
he doesn't want one of our coors, cause he has standards.
josh goes up the flake, i follow carrying beers
in the pockets of my women's pants and i proceed to drop
my #3 from about 70' up.
i was my fault. i was and is a droolin' fool.
beers on the summit and new plans hatched..
so around the corner im half way up another pitch and the same
fella raps by. just as im whale humping onto a ledge that
i couldn't quite execute the proper and photogenic heel hook.
he tells me that more and more he relys on this maneuver, in that i'm engaged.
i look down from my stance,
and i realize that i completely garage-saled my shite show
all over the base of this climb.
jackets. spare rack. beer cans. other random-pack-shite.
the guy walks over to josh, and see's my well-worn silent
partner amidst my heap-o-shite and asks to check it out.
josh is wearing my puffy jacket, which actually was my wife's cause
we sport the same digs and i accidently packed hers so josh that why
of all the girly shite stuffed in the pockets.
so i be blonde #2.
and that fella was none other than hip shipoopi.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jan 22, 2012 - 09:27am PT
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Anchors Away, named as such because ...
Yes, I've done Anchors too, but don't remember that much about it. I thought there was also a route named Ankles Away, as a pun on the original, somewhere in the vicinity?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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Anchors Away, if I recall, was so-named because while working on the FA one of the guys was severely injured or bought it while jugging up on a single bolt that failed. Or something to that effect. Some sense of black humor those climbers have...
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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When we were working on Hall of Mirrors, and on other routes about that same time, run-outs to drill stances were measured by how many hits it would take to get it done. We probably could have done without, but the idea never occurred to any of us; it just seemed like the normal way of doing things.
One memorable experiment, which did not work as well as the weed, was when a certain member of the team decided that some crystal meth would be just the thing to take the edge off the long run-outs on a seasonal return to the high point. Ten feet off the first bolt the shaking began, and the over-application of chalk to dry the sweaty palms made the "Steel Wall" pitch(HOM)impossible. I was forced to lead it by a chalk free variation, which was much harder than the normal line. Much wiser, we stuck to Thai Stick for the remainder of the push.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 22, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Regarding the OP - there's really somebody from Bolinas that has NEVER smoked pot? REALLY?? Maybe not first-hand, but I think spending enough time in Bolinas qualifies. Surely you've pulled in your share of second-hand smoke, and I expect you've also had a contact high or two.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 22, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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...run-outs to drill stances were measured by how many hits it would take to get it done..
Totally f*#king awesome
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 22, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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> I thought there was also a route named Ankles Away, as a pun on the original, somewhere in the vicinity?
Ankles Away is at the Needles (Sequoia National Forest).
And yes, the 5.11a crux to p1 of Anchors Away is the last section, reaching the anchors.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jan 22, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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Ah, thanks Clint. I knew I'd heard the name. Must have been Anchors... that the boys were on.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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Willoughby....never smoked in spite of literally being immersed in smoke and the culture. Grew up with my grandparents and watched my grandmother die at 56 in an oxygen tent of lung cancer (recent threads confirm that pot's better then cigi's but back then when I was eleven...). Never smoked anything because of that. I consider myself to be a decent slab climber and love those climbs. But the mentality and the spirit of the day may have been different? My mentor was hardcore about onsite, no frills slab climbing. He was, and still is one of the best I've ever seen and he did it strait. But I'm intrigued by the culture of that time and it's place in climbing. These day, when mass culture seems to sanitize everything, it's nice to know that I can still go to the valley or the meadows, get on something that may not have been climbed in decades past ancient bolts and get a sense of that spirit. By the way, got thrown of a jury because a prosecutor in a pot trial simply did not believe someone from Bolinas had never smoked.....
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jan 22, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Both give you man boobs! LOL
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 22, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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It's called "gynocomastia" and it is referred to as mantitties.
You can get it from reefin early on in your career, or puberty can cause it.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 26, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
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BVB & Flower DeBell all goofy on the Apron
BVB said: Hoppy's Favorite (or was it The Mouth? The one with a full-length 5.9 pitch with one bolt That would be Deep Throat. That 5.9 pitch was great - if you were leading you'd hook fingernails into the micro edges and sweat your way up, but on a TR you'd set your palms flat and stand anywhere. Deep Throat also had a 200' last pitch to the Mouth that we'd do a one bolt belay shuffle to get though. I dunno if I have any shots of that day, but I've posted a couple candidates that are at least from outings cut from the same cloth.
Conga Line: same route, different day
Anchors Away and Sailing Shoes are two separate climbs in the same vicinity. Here's a little stink buggin on p2 of Sailing Shoes
I sure did love hanging out with my buddies on the Apron...
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 27, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Jan 21, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
I doesn't make you better or braver or whatever. Its just a relaxing ritual for contemplation of the brotherhood of the rope and the miracle of the sport.
The Sacraments.
Be sure to never allow a non-smoker to tell you what the hell the experience is or the effects. They don't know because they don't know. Everything else is bullsh#t.
I spent weeks on the Apron. I think it was considered girly BITD. It certainly didn't make me into a wunderkind Apron dancer.
Nobody much seemed impressed but me. Its important to keep sh#t straight. It isn't scary leading long run outs on apron, whats scary is holding 4 ounces as you walk past the kiosk to sell it to the brotherhood in Camp. If you can do the second, you can probably handle the first. You go no real commitment to consequence on the Apron compared to finding yourself busted for too much weed in Camp.
Not that that was really much of a problem most of the time. I never really had neither too much, too many or too serious. That's never happened, and it still didn't. I am hallucinating myself a glamorous past from the depths of a twelve pack of Thunderhead. This in't happening.
How the hell would I know, I grew up in a convent with Pate.
I am his Father.
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Best Roxie post ever!!!!!!
We'd probably be good friends if not for this evil forum!
I'll read this post every time I feel like talking sh#t to or about Roxie before I post.
Honest! Good shot rox.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 27, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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Never warmed up to climbing stoned, just like I’ve never enjoyed the effects of drinking during the day. All that fun was always best for me, after the climbing was over.
However the Apron stories have jolted my memory back to May 1975. Gary Clark & I hooked up with Dave ?Nef?--- who had been climbing in the valley & living out of a VW bus in Camp 4 for a while. Dave was a WSU grad & Washington native.
Dave guided us up The Mouth.
I was fascinated with the concept of 5.9 slab and had a great time following. Gary took a long slider following a traverse (Dave may have been a wee-bit of route) and was pissed-off the rest of the day.
Those were the days. Long run-out leads off single ¼” bolt belays.
It was a few more years, before doubt crept in about the logic of all our eggs in one 1/4" bolt basket-----metaphorically-speaking.
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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Jan 28, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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I never warmed up to it either. Rapping off a route was the scariest thing in the world to me after sitting on a ledge for a while. I never, trusted that I had my brake set up right. I would just freeze on the ledge afraid to step off.
The worst case of this was on the Apron doing the Grunt and attempting the Calf,
It took me years to accept the fact that juju just wasn't for me. The good times associated with the first five minutes just weren't worth the 2 hours of darkness that followed.
I learned the same lesson with alcohol playing softball in the valley. I remember striking out on three consecutive called strikes. By the time I decided to swing the bat the ball was being thrown back to the mound. The Warehhouse team didn't fare well that day.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 28, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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It was Tim Harrison who died on Anchors Away?
I never found out.
It was fer sure 5.11 in EB's, although kind of soft 5.11. No where near as hard as Green Dragon used to be.
I only spent one day of my life on the Apron, and it was wicked fun. Partner and I did every route we could find over 5.9. Lots of really fun stuff if you were schooled in slabs. I grew up climbing a lot in a slabby area.
I bet we did 30 routes. You just don't get flamed on a slab, although your mind can get a little weary.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jan 28, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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The Washington boys and I climbed a slab line on the Sheet that we named Joint Venture.
The route was a collaboration between climbers of differing generations AND involved herbal interactions at regular intervals by one in our party.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 28, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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When in Rome..... (names withheld to protect the innocent:-)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Yes Kevin. What in God's name were they thinking? Climbing is dangerous enough as it is without pouring the gasoline of illegal drugs onto that fire. Sheesh.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Coz, if Green Dragon was 11d it was the easiest 11d on the Apron! What was it in the '87 Meyer's Guide?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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Yeah, Coz did Perfect Master with the Evil Ex in '87 or '88. Fell a couple of times on it then did it top to bottom clean. On a good conditions day, as well. I thought The Token was harder. I did the Token it and fell more than a few times before pulling the rope and doing it top-to-bottom.
No pot here, but way too much Coffee!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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Thanks for largely keeping this on topic.....I'm truly interested in the mentality of climbing these days because while my physical skills are certainly waning, I feel stronger then ever mentally. All of the BITD talk can still be lived today and by all of us later along in years. The interesting thing to me is how out of style slabs have become. I'm over fifty and am climbing slabs better then ever. Modern rubber (and the benefit of gyms to keep us strong) and being more of a mental challenge is something we can all do later in life. Numbers games aren't based so much on physical ability as the mental. All of the apron climbs still exist. Climbs like the BY and Burning Down The House are still physically within our reach. Why is it that we need to lose that focus and lack of go for it attitude later in life. More to lose? Older and wiser? The only time I'm absolutely free is when I'm 20' out lazer beamed in on that moment, making the next move. I remember being in conversation with Gnome after he followed the BY last year and his ambition to be the "oldest" to climb the BY. Why not? I've seen him climb and he certainly has the physical skills and I'm sure he'd say the same about me. It's the mental challenge that seems to be missing in the general climbing populace these days. Slabs can be enjoyed by all ages. That's why I love the stories and how these amazing pieces of art were installed. And mind altering played a part. Just tapping into it naturally is my goal.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 20, 2013 - 02:14am PT
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420 bump
:)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 20, 2013 - 08:03am PT
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BITD (70s) I used to smoke it up, and free solo around Yo-sem-ite and Tu-a-lum-ne with a fanny pack and tape player blasting Jimi Hendrix. When I free-soloed the Great White Book I also liked to carry an open can of beer with me. Anchor's Away was my first 5.11.
Man, I love the Apron
Rawl Drive (?) on Lembert
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 20, 2013 - 08:14am PT
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OK, is 4.20 some rating thing?
No pro, maybe a rope, no rope, we smoked it...
Is it Lembert Dome yet?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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BITD, we named Stoners Stoners because we liked to be on the stone.
Kinda like surfers like to be on the surf.
I had no idea this many climbers were actually climbing under the influence of illegal narcotics.
shocking - how can you guys participate in such a dangerous activity while impaired?
Warbler as Captain Renault in Casablanca: "shocked, shocked!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjbPi00k_ME
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 20, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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"herbal interactions"--*giggle*
"no shit"--man, that's FUBAR, unlike 1/4" bolts
It was Ganja that gotcha in the frame of mind to climb.
I climbed once on hashish, never again.
It wasn't on the Apron slab, however, whose location alone makes all things seen seem to come under the climber's sway, a refreshing, liberating feeling. Pot would logically expand this natural feeling of superiority.
Rather, it was on The Green Strip, a route which is apparently lost to the mists of time, but was or is part of the Open Books left of Yosemite Falls.
I was ill-at-ease and vaguely quasi-queasy/iffy-wiffy on TGS and told myself it was uncool/stupid to feel so helpless/incompetent.
T-SHIRT
It is what it is,
Or is it what it seems it is?
Think of anything but the move,
Or nothing.
Ganja will do that,
So can you.
My certainty was in question, certainty,
Now that I,ve thoughten about it.
5.9 slab, let's go to the bistro.
DITHER & SLITHER
It seems I took too
long,
Thinking too much,
and was
Not reacting smooth. [ly]
EDIT
I've changed my mind.
I could climb and enjoy it.
Hash butter rocks.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Apr 20, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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So if you're getting high in order to ease the stress of harrowing run-outs can this be considered "doping"?
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 20, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 20, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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Talk about six degrees of seperation......
We did a climb on the apron this weekend called "deep throat".
Then I saw that people have been bumping the pot thread and read about an older adventure up the thing.
We were shooting for the mouth but our stuff was on a ledge a pitch up under the route so we didn't do the traverse as we were afraid of not being able to get the stuff and the green guide didn't show a "b" belay at the mouth so we thought we'd finished it. First pitch is no beginners 5.7 either.
Yowza! Wish I was stoned for it! Jaywood got the 5.9 run. He was so into trying to survive that he didn't see the bolt which is off and up right, ran it straight passed the anchors and clipped the bolt to the beginning of the traverse before I reminded him that there was a belay up there somewhere. The technical crux was by far the easiest part of the climb. I'm thinking of buying some old EB's and a ounce before I head over to the Apron again. We get into nothing but trouble over there.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 22, 2018 - 09:21pm PT
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Legal in Canada now, bump!
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Zclipper69
Trad climber
mill valley
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Oct 22, 2018 - 10:31pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 22, 2018 - 10:56pm PT
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Not just for slabbin` 'KARL & NANCYOverlook drive
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Oct 22, 2018 - 11:09pm PT
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To answer the OP's question, yes, I believe that the ethics of the FA require that you also blaze first if you want to claim an onsight.
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 23, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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I named an FA ‘Waiting to Exhale,’ not after the movie, but for my two partners getting baked at the belays. I’d look back and even from around a corner, there were clouds of weed billowing upwards.
 ec
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Oct 23, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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Smoking was not just limited to free climbing. Hard aid climbing is pretty heady stuff, and it is important to keep your focus. More than once I have pulled up the smoke on the trail line and taken a bong hit or two while standing on a tied off blade or RURP. I don't know what people do in the modern age of beaks and heads, but that's how a lot of it went down in the iron age.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 23, 2018 - 12:55pm PT
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What is it about cracks that can't be solved with a little psychic help?
Is it that slabs do not require so much physical effort (in the lower grades, especially)?
Or is it much more FUN to put your mind in cruise control n just do the moves with seeming grace and fluitidy (as Norwegyne might say)?
Ponder this while toking up next time.
And don't use your chalk to get high. It's not gonna work.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Oct 23, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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No slab, but I am twisting der spliff at our 20th hour of movement.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 23, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
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Never liked pot or slab climbing that much but, back in around 73 my girlfriend (who became my second ex wife) showed up in Camp 4. Somehow a bunch of us ended up at the Apron and several, me included, dropped acid. I proceeded, so I am told, to climb a 5.6/7 slab barefoot and naked and sit down at the halfway point.
Those were the 70’s.
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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