Who Did The First Ascents At Big Rock- A Historical Survey

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 9, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
What would be really fun would be to see some more old shots from those days. I never took any that I can remember because we always figured we were must practicing at Big Rock, but English Hanging Gardens, Giant Step, Let it Bleed, Roman Nose and a couple others were quite challenging for us in the old red PAs.

I think I'll start another thread on Rubidoux. That's where a lot of us really got started and most of us are totally in the dark as to when most of the classic lines were first done and by who. We climbed a lot out there in the early 70s with my mentor, Paul Gleason, but we never talked about who did what and were always focusing on what the new stuff was. I'm sure there are people on his list who have great info on the place.

JL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Outstanding Keith!

Thanks for putting that list together.

I just sent Pat Callis an email so hopefully he can contribute.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
Pat said that he didn't do much here but put me in touch with Lee Harrell who will hopefully join in.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Apr 15, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
My son's first trip to Big Rock. I am getting him ready to do Snake Dike next month.
Credit: Batrock
Credit: Batrock
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2012 - 07:43am PT
Great place to learn!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Apr 16, 2012 - 08:13am PT
That would be way cool to hear from Lee Harrell!
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Apr 16, 2012 - 08:46am PT
True that, Phil!
I can still feel the weight of that pack rat running down my pant leg when we erroneously thought the Rat Crack was rated an easy climb back in '64, and ended up free soloing it on our first climbing trip.

Looks like you got a "Tiger" there Batrock!

Mountain Project shows 4 additional distinct lines on the upper "Sundeck" near Mickey Mantel (not shown on Cobb's guide) ranging from .9 to .11a.

Soon after the aforementioned building was razed, I took this photo of what was left of the foundation ca'65
Before the dam, what's left of the foundation to a structure that once...
Before the dam, what's left of the foundation to a structure that once stood at the base of Big Rock. ca '65


We took a group of Dalton Hot Shots out for a day of climbing ca '66. This is just before the crux on the Runny Nose. 5.9
photo not found
Missing photo ID#244819

A view of the top of the Nose. The 5.7 (Phil's colorful pic above) went up to the isolated flake and up; the Roman Nose (5.11?) straight up the blankest section between light and shadow. Not much pro (if any) for quite a while. And the Runny Nose 5.9 went over the small roof. The Sickle 5.11+ was off to the right
photo not found
Missing photo ID#244820

Paul Gleason taking a breather while trying to free the Roman Nose ca'66
Paul Gleason Big Rock ca. 1966 "Roman Nose" 5.11
Paul Gleason Big Rock ca. 1966 "Roman Nose" 5.11
Credit: Keith Leaman



PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Apr 16, 2012 - 09:18am PT
Oct 2011
Oct 2011
Credit: PhilG
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2012 - 09:21am PT
Lee just wrote me and is in the middle of a move right now and will join in as soon as the dust settles.

Sounds like a lot of these routes are his doing so this should be fantastic historically!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Apr 16, 2012 - 09:25am PT
Strong work, Steve!
Really looking forward to his input.
ATS

climber
Mountain Project
Apr 16, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
Roman Nose

John,

Is that the 11- to the left of Giant Step?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2012 - 09:40am PT
Big Ole Bump...
bryceman

Boulder climber
Joshua Tree, California
May 17, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
What about the first para-glider routs off Big Rock? I was there @1990 to see one.

FAIL... Blood everywhere.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 17, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Mona Stahl
Mona Stahl
Credit: StahlBro

My mom on the sharp end early 70's

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 07:00am PT
Ah, yer mother wears climbing boots...

Nice shot!
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
May 18, 2012 - 08:21am PT
Bump for history.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
Harrell soon bump...
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 26, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
Good stuff! Like others I always felt Big Rock was just exercise and a day having fun until we could get to Tahquitz.

Tried the hanging gardens a few times but could not even boulder the start. The first bolt was shite spinner. Then one day I'm out there and see some guy float it.

F-U Moffat! :>

Edit: As a BITD weekend warrior, it always amazes me the way the really skilled people move on the rock. The way Moffat moved was so smooth and effortless. I've seen other climbers do it, but seeing Moffat glide that day was the first time I'd seen that level of elegance.
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Aug 8, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
BUMP
T Hocking

Social climber
Riverside/Redding, Ca
Aug 8, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Interesting thread,
spent some time there in the mid-70's.
What year was the dam built?
I seem to remember that the climbing area was closed while the dam was being built.
Think i have some old pics of the place, will post if i can find them.
Tad

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