Who Did The First Ascents At Big Rock- A Historical Survey

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 115 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 28, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Following this thread with interest, Steve.
By-the-way, I came across a copy of Pat Merrill's topo. I could scan it, if anyone is interested.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Post that topo up Phil!

And raid your slide box for any Big Rock shots.

Lee showed up when there were only two routes so this should be really fun filling in the blanks.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jul 28, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
I bet The Trough is real greezy now days,
was slick in the early 70's.
Hope the old bolts have been upgraded as well.
Thanks for the memory bump Steve!
Tad
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 28, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
'like' thread bump
Lee Harrell

Social climber
Santa Fe, NM
Sep 5, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Since I am inclined to be less than proficient with "threads" i will give Steve Grossman a call and he can pick and choose what he wants to put in. Suffice it to say I guess I was one of the first people to actually climb at Big Rock. The SAR folks from Riverside used to play there but it consisted almost entirely of lowering people down the face in a stokes--I never saw one of them doing anything from the ground up except the central "gully." I learned about the place when I went over to Riverside to buy something at a climbing store--I believe it was "Highland Outfitters." There were a couple of young fellas who I talked with and they told me about these horrific walls which were very difficult or maybe impossible--obviously I had to see such things. I went there one time with them and I guess they had enough of it so I had to find other folks to climb with. When I first went there much of the rock had a good covering of moss on it--clearly no one had been up it and when it rained it good pretty snotty. I know the first climb I did, after going up the obvious gully and a flake to the left of it--which I did solo--no one to go with and pretty easy anyway, was the route which went up to the arching roof about 100 or so feet left of the gully. I put in a bolt to belay from or to protect the roof part--the moves were reasonably hard but what made it tricky was the damn moss. I actually backed off the first time since there was water running down it and I saw no reason to be silly. In addition my wife was belaying me from the ground and there was no way she could get up it . We only went there during the winter between trips to the desert. There were moderate boulders around and we used those to keep our skills up. About this time I ran into Phil Gleason who was on a "Hot Shot" fire crew and who was interested in climbing--he brought along his brother Phil, Keith Leamon, Jim Barker and others. I was the "old man" and somehow we all clicked, our house in Claremont kinda became the central place. I will try to get info to Steve G. and see if I have any photos to send along.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Sep 5, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
Thanks for posting, Lee! Remember the "Ring Climb"? Such an excellent boulder problem, now underground~Three slightly indented ring shapes, one above the other becoming progressively more perfectly circular. The mantle into the last red-orange ring - being about 16" in diameter - and a little higher off the ground than many would like. Here's Phil on the steep polished slab back in 1965.

On a recent trip there I believe I spotted the top foot or so sticking up above grade. I still recall many evenings at your place in Claremont. Pat's dinners and your classical guitar. Good times!

Hey Phil...scan Merrill's topo.
Phil Gleason gripping the second of three rings on the 'Ring Climb' ca...
Phil Gleason gripping the second of three rings on the 'Ring Climb' ca 1965.
Credit: KL
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Sep 5, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
Thanks Lee!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Yes, thanks Lee for posting! Your story brought back recollections of the feel and smell of that noble rock back then.

Keith: I have some days off coming up, I'll try to get that topo scanned.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:28am PT
Credit: edit:Peter Haan
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Credit: edit; Peter Haan
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Credit: edit; Peter Haan
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Credit: edit; Peter Haan
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Sep 6, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Peter,
Thanks for cleaning up those relic photos!
Nice work,
Tad
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Welcome Lee!

Thanks for pulling up a chair here at the ST campfire. A rare treat to go all the way back to the beginning of route development here and see what comes of the discussion.

Don't edit your writing on my account. LOL The ST is far more reliable than my memory so consider this thread a journal and fill er up!

How many of the routes on the topo in the OP are yours do you think?

Hopefully Phil will provide some more grist with that old topo.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Sep 11, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
Keith, Steve, Lee and anyone else interested: below is the scanned Topo. It was a large piece of paper so I scanned it in two images. As it mentions in the text, it not an "original" but a copy of an original. I'm not sure I agree with all of the ratings!
Phil

Credit: PhilG

Credit: PhilG
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Bump!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Sep 13, 2013 - 10:33am PT
Historical bump.
DonC

climber
CA
Sep 13, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Phil - I remember that Topo. English Hanging Gardens at 5.9?? I recall the Giant Step moves to be pretty tricky also for 5.10. Left Flake at 5.8 seems high, a few others done't seem right either.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Nice topo Phil!

Is this the first one that anyone put out?

What is Pat Merrill's story?

DonC- How many routes existed at Big Rock when you first visited to climb there?
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Sep 13, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
Steve,
As far as I can recollect, this was the first Topo. There might have been a route list compiled prior to Pat's topo. Lee might have a better idea. As he said, his house was the climbing center for the group. If anyone had a different, earlier guide, he would have seen it.
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