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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Dec 28, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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Skinnier rope...........
Less material to chance a hit like that......
As for Avi Danger on Stairway to Heaven in Eureka, Kalimon, Your dead wrong...and lucky.
A very good friend/climbing partner of mine got hit at the base of the route by a slide......
Took him for the 2-300 yard washing machine tumble, under the snow,on top, in the middle........
When it was all over he was lucky to just have a broken Tibula, and be on top of the snow........
The second avi that came down as he tried to scramble out of the way was a smaller one..........
He relaxed back onto the slope........took off his now tattered pack.....
In his words, "the third avalanche I knew would kill me if I didn't move"
He proceeded to hobble across the slope at the base, moving as fast as his broken leg would allow, all the while watching this mass of snow come at him..............
He went as far as he could in the time he had, curled up in a ball and waited for what was to come.............
He felt the air blast........
Like sacks of potatoes hitting his back..........
He felt the ice/snow hitting around....................
Then it was silent...............................
The air was still.............................
The big slide just missed him......................
He looked back across the slope he had been on, the one where he left his pack to get out of the way of the path of the 3rd slide..............
His pack was gone........
That slope above, the one you think you can see for Stairway, you can't, and is a huge deposit zone for snow..................
He's very lucky........and he knows it.................
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:59am PT
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Ice is nice and so is rock...
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 28, 2011 - 09:04am PT
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That rope was a 8.5 thin enough for me.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:03am PT
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the dreamstream
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:06am PT
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Awesome thread, Philo! Lots of beautiful stuff shown here.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 28, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 28, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Dec 28, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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Any of you San Juan climbers ever do the Calling or White Trash in Eureka?
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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I just want to say thanx to all my fellow Cicle-Psychos for posting up such fantastic shots.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 28, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your friend Decko.
As for my being "wrong" . . . when it comes to the white death, there is no right or wrong. I clearly stated that there is larger deposition above the route that cannot be adequately assessed from below and that these factors were considered. Your friend must have been in there right after a storm and probably did not allow time for the snowpack to settle. There were several warm days prior to my ascent that would have contributed to some stabilization. There is no crystal ball when it comes to avalanche forcasting.
What are you trying to say here? Alpinism is not sport climbing . . . there will always be inherent danger and risk. Are we to assume you are saying it is never safe to climb this route due to avalanche danger? With an attitude like that everyone should probably just curl up on the couch and watch f*#king climbing videos.
It is surprising that a cautious guy like you would even suggest ice climbing on a skinny rope. Twin thins are where it is at for serious ice leads . . . or just stay at home and avoid the hazards of climbing entirely.
Yeah Decko, I am lucky . . . rather be lucky than afraid.
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blake
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
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...speaking of San Juan ice, I'm flying in on Jan 1 hoping to climb some classics (including Stairway if conditions are good) before hanging out at the Ouray Ice Fest. I don't know the area at all.
Does anyone have recommendations for a guidebook or other resource to help pick out some routes and learn their whereabouts?
Also, it seems like the SJMG site has a pretty good ice report, but I can't tell if it's current (says it was last updated in September???).
Finally, what's the best San Juan avy forecast resource/website?
Thanks much for any info.
Blake
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blake
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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Sorry, I should have contributed a photo!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
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Blake,
The Colorado Avalanche Information Center, CAIC, does an outstanding job of monitoring and forcasting avalanche/snowpack conditions for the entire state throughout the winter months. This is a crucial resource for anyone venturing into the Colorado backcountry during the winter. They have a website and local public radio stations like KVNF and KOTO religiously broadcast the daily avalanche report. You might also try the Skyward Mountaineering website for actual ice route conditions. It is good that you are doing your homework regarding these important facts.
If you can get a hold of Charlie Fowlers' old "San Juan Ice Climbs" guide, do so. Once in Ouray you will encounter plenty of locals willing to share the knowledge you seek.
Don't let Decko scare you. Be safe and have fun.
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blake
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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Kalimon,
Thanks for the great info. I'm definitely hoping to encounter some locals when I arrive in Ouray. This might sound silly, but where should I look for said locals-with-beta? Ice park? Gear shop (are there any?)? Hot springs?
Yes!
Thanks,
Blake
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Blake,
The locals you want to talk to are working in the bars and restaurants. The town will be a total poser scene during the Festival . . . seek out the low profile, honest-to-goodness hard cores. They probably won't be wearing expensive down jackets.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Dec 29, 2011 - 03:02am PT
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Best use of ice IMO but enjoying the fun vicariously.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 29, 2011 - 08:25am PT
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Thanks to I'm hurtin . . . for showing us some real goods.
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