Ice is Nice.

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Messages 1 - 199 of total 199 in this topic
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 23, 2011 - 11:47am PT
Tis the season after all...



...post em up.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
And it don't mean Jack!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Reilly, love it.


Look at the water flowing under the ice.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
"Off Belay" takes us 'ice' climbing...



Anyone for a 'Knuckle Sandwich' ?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
Sort of ice-ish
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 23, 2011 - 03:21pm PT

Okay, Philo, you and me next week!
Cor

climber
Colorado
Dec 23, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
ice is nice in more ways than one..



philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
Nice pic Cor.
You unheralded hard man.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 23, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 23, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
Cor

climber
Colorado
Dec 23, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Various ice...






philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 10:53am PT
I Scream Bump!
Branch

Trad climber
Alberta
Dec 24, 2011 - 11:10am PT
Been a decent start to the season. Lots of days craggin' and only a few on multipitch. That'll change in January.

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
Whorehouse Hoses from last season.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
tradchick

Trad climber
Vermont
Dec 25, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 01:07am PT
nICE tradchick.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Dec 26, 2011 - 01:23am PT
Anybody not just TR ice on the Taco? :)
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 26, 2011 - 11:39am PT
Exceptional December access conditions!




philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
Hey Kalimon, how is the avalanche danger in Eureka after the last snows?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 26, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
climbrunride

Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
Dec 26, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
A couple weeks ago, the local free paper (The Telegraph) had a cool/scary photo of an avalanche sweeping down over Stairway to Heaven. It looked big and billowy.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 26, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Been wicked busy working, hunting and we have had a very late start to our ice season with many washouts and too much rain to even get out and rock climb. Have not climbed anything in at least six weeks and that was 5 easy rock. Stuffed my face for 2 days and then led all 600ft of the Black Dike directly off the couch. Thin brittle with lots of blowing snow and just barely enough marginal gear for me. lots of places you simply had to climb hard technical moves 20ft over a 10cm screw or a cam in an iced up crack behind a loose block. Pretty awsome but not sure if this will jumpstart my season or give me PTSD ;)
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
Kudos ya couch spud you.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 26, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Stewart Johnson you are posting up some fine pics.

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
http://ourayicepark.com/

Purdy Pick-tures
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
Bump for those of us living in precipitation-deprived climes. Thanks to everyone posting on this thread.

john
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 27, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
Isa @ the 2nd belay.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 27, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
Sunset on the hike out.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 27, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 27, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
Hola Philo!

The Avalanche danger is moderate on the exposures involved with Stairway. Surprisingly there was quite a bit of wind deposition following last weeks storm. This resulted in some soft windslabs that were approximately 6-12" deep on the approach and walk-off descent. Overall the snowpack is thin but there are some basins above the climb that undoubtedly hold more snow than down lower. These conditions were all considered prior to deciding to go for it.

It is funny you should ask this question because as I was putting my crampons on at the base for my ropeless solo, a slide cut loose 200 meters to my (climber's) right and suddenly the whole endeavor was in serious question! Rationalizing that the climb itself was not quite an avalanche path like the one that had just cut loose due to the thermal conditions (it was pretty warm), I proceeded to ascend the route without further incident. There was a fair amount of melt water coming down the right side, so the climbing stayed left and center for the most part on colder brittle ice in the shaded areas and nice wet sticky plastic on the sunnier exposures. Don't be surprised by the steepness of the two 30-40' chandeliered cruxes, WI4+.

Go do it!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 27, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
Oh Man Uber crap!
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Dec 28, 2011 - 12:23am PT
Skinnier rope...........


Less material to chance a hit like that......

As for Avi Danger on Stairway to Heaven in Eureka, Kalimon, Your dead wrong...and lucky.

A very good friend/climbing partner of mine got hit at the base of the route by a slide......

Took him for the 2-300 yard washing machine tumble, under the snow,on top, in the middle........

When it was all over he was lucky to just have a broken Tibula, and be on top of the snow........


The second avi that came down as he tried to scramble out of the way was a smaller one..........

He relaxed back onto the slope........took off his now tattered pack.....

In his words, "the third avalanche I knew would kill me if I didn't move"

He proceeded to hobble across the slope at the base, moving as fast as his broken leg would allow, all the while watching this mass of snow come at him..............















He went as far as he could in the time he had, curled up in a ball and waited for what was to come.............






He felt the air blast........






Like sacks of potatoes hitting his back..........





He felt the ice/snow hitting around....................









Then it was silent...............................











The air was still.............................






The big slide just missed him......................







He looked back across the slope he had been on, the one where he left his pack to get out of the way of the path of the 3rd slide..............




















His pack was gone........










That slope above, the one you think you can see for Stairway, you can't, and is a huge deposit zone for snow..................









He's very lucky........and he knows it.................





Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 01:59am PT
Ice is nice and so is rock...
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:04am PT
That rope was a 8.5 thin enough for me.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:03am PT
the dreamstream
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:06am PT
Awesome thread, Philo! Lots of beautiful stuff shown here.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 28, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Dec 28, 2011 - 04:43pm PT


johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Dec 28, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
Any of you San Juan climbers ever do the Calling or White Trash in Eureka?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
I just want to say thanx to all my fellow Cicle-Psychos for posting up such fantastic shots.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:24pm PT

Sorry to hear about your friend Decko.

As for my being "wrong" . . . when it comes to the white death, there is no right or wrong. I clearly stated that there is larger deposition above the route that cannot be adequately assessed from below and that these factors were considered. Your friend must have been in there right after a storm and probably did not allow time for the snowpack to settle. There were several warm days prior to my ascent that would have contributed to some stabilization. There is no crystal ball when it comes to avalanche forcasting.

What are you trying to say here? Alpinism is not sport climbing . . . there will always be inherent danger and risk. Are we to assume you are saying it is never safe to climb this route due to avalanche danger? With an attitude like that everyone should probably just curl up on the couch and watch f*#king climbing videos.

It is surprising that a cautious guy like you would even suggest ice climbing on a skinny rope. Twin thins are where it is at for serious ice leads . . . or just stay at home and avoid the hazards of climbing entirely.

Yeah Decko, I am lucky . . . rather be lucky than afraid.
blake

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
...speaking of San Juan ice, I'm flying in on Jan 1 hoping to climb some classics (including Stairway if conditions are good) before hanging out at the Ouray Ice Fest. I don't know the area at all.

Does anyone have recommendations for a guidebook or other resource to help pick out some routes and learn their whereabouts?

Also, it seems like the SJMG site has a pretty good ice report, but I can't tell if it's current (says it was last updated in September???).

Finally, what's the best San Juan avy forecast resource/website?

Thanks much for any info.
Blake
blake

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
Sorry, I should have contributed a photo!

Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
Blake,

The Colorado Avalanche Information Center, CAIC, does an outstanding job of monitoring and forcasting avalanche/snowpack conditions for the entire state throughout the winter months. This is a crucial resource for anyone venturing into the Colorado backcountry during the winter. They have a website and local public radio stations like KVNF and KOTO religiously broadcast the daily avalanche report. You might also try the Skyward Mountaineering website for actual ice route conditions. It is good that you are doing your homework regarding these important facts.

If you can get a hold of Charlie Fowlers' old "San Juan Ice Climbs" guide, do so. Once in Ouray you will encounter plenty of locals willing to share the knowledge you seek.

Don't let Decko scare you. Be safe and have fun.
blake

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Kalimon,

Thanks for the great info. I'm definitely hoping to encounter some locals when I arrive in Ouray. This might sound silly, but where should I look for said locals-with-beta? Ice park? Gear shop (are there any?)? Hot springs?

Yes!
Thanks,
Blake
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
Blake,

The locals you want to talk to are working in the bars and restaurants. The town will be a total poser scene during the Festival . . . seek out the low profile, honest-to-goodness hard cores. They probably won't be wearing expensive down jackets.

I'm hurtin . . .

Ice climber
midwest
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:14am PT
I'm hurtin . . .

Ice climber
midwest
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:49am PT
duncan

climber
London, UK
Dec 29, 2011 - 03:02am PT

Best use of ice IMO but enjoying the fun vicariously.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 29, 2011 - 08:25am PT
Thanks to I'm hurtin . . . for showing us some real goods.
I'm hurtin . . .

Ice climber
midwest
Dec 29, 2011 - 10:15am PT
A couple more from the ice mecca.
Conrad

climber
Dec 29, 2011 - 11:18am PT
Phil_B

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Dec 29, 2011 - 11:27am PT
Cleo at Crawford Notch, NH.

We didn't think there was any ice, but Synnott Mtn. Guides found some really fun stuff for us.
Powder

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Dec 29, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
Ice is nice; this thread is not nice - it's AWESOME!

I don't have any cool ice photos like everyone else does, but since I'm replying I think it'd be polite to contribute something... =)

Taken NOT this year...


Taken yesterday...

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 30, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
Cruised out to my local crag after work and soloed a few routs. it was fantasticly yummilicious ;)
Brian

climber
California
Dec 30, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
Ice psyche bump.

Brian

climber
California
Dec 30, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
Looking up into one of the cruxes on Birdbrain...

Brian

climber
California
Dec 30, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
Roadside shenanigans...

T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 31, 2011 - 12:48am PT




T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 31, 2011 - 12:19pm PT

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
I will be at the AAC tent from 11:00 - 1:00 Fri & Sat during the Ice Fest in Ouray. Stop by and say hello if you are in the area. Remember that is the AAC tent not the AARP tent.
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Jan 3, 2012 - 12:08pm PT

tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Jan 3, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Went climbing with the boys a few weeks back.




Shoulda jived instead of shucked


Just as my scratch was healing and I was looking forward to getting back on the ice I went skiing in perfect knee deep powder on Christmas eve with the kids. Everything was going fine until I'm guessing a buried alder stopped all forward motion resulting in a header and bruised sternum and torn/strained ligaments and muscles in my chest.
mstearns

climber
CA
Jan 3, 2012 - 03:03pm PT

Me on Berzerker in Ouray last week.


My gf in the School Room.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
http://www.peaksandplaces.com/brad/KennedysGully/KennedysGully2-11-11-2.html


Grab a roll of TP and watch this video.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 3, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Bump for CO ice pics!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 12:35am PT
WATER, my favorite non-Newtonian fluid.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 4, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Hydrogen bonds are our friends.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 12:41am PT
Kalimon, iffn yer around during the Ice Fest come by the AAC tent between 11:00 & !:00 Friday & Saturday and say howdy.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Oh puke man!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 4, 2012 - 01:01am PT
some great non typical ice shots in this thread!


my own adventure recently on 108...


going up again soon
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
Fortmental, that's the one. Urp! that vid almost tossed my lunch. That is one fortunate dude.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 4, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
Munge,
did you do the left flow? How about sardine creek? And also that one hidden way up in the sunbaked slot? Some question in my mind whether that even exists, didn't have time to check it out.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 4, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
2007 we did the left flow (the one that sits in that cleft). It was really fragile reverser chandeliery stuff and warm so I think we just ran TRs on it. Steep and short. Never seen a WI4 that was short, but if dead vertical and chandeliery count then there was a short section of it.

We looked at a couple of smears up high, but when we got closer they were really low angle. Same?


Solo'd Sardine Falls in 2007 as well (very wet!) WI2 (2+?).


Going up this weekend. Send a pm if you're interested in rallying.



hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside (of the Tetons)
Jan 4, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
whimper, sniff, sniff
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 4, 2012 - 08:53pm PT

Jay Smith on the ames ice hose.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 4, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
Very nice Stewart . . . the premier route, excellent perspective, bad ass dude on lead.

We are blessed with ice around here.

Hey now Philo . . . working up at the job in Mountain Village on Friday and have a truck service appointment in Montrose on Saturday . . . sorry to miss you. Have a great festival.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jan 4, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
Is that a recent photo of the ames ice hose or from another season?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 4, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
maybe 2007? kinda thin w/ stubbies only.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
2007 eh looks fat.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 4, 2012 - 10:33pm PT

back in tahoe, some fun ice now.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 4, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
Ames Ice Hose is prolly my favorite route. How can you not love P2?
Munge: at work this week but will likely head up 13, 14 or 15th if things hold together. The sunbaked slot is not on that aspect. Looks dead south and is just glimpsed from the flat section of road before heading up to the summit.
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 4, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
How about some Alpine? (Both photos by Jeff N)
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Hankster, don't hold back tell us how you really feel.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Camp Bird road earlier today.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
Sweet Alaska stoke.

This is from the only FA I give a rats hind end about. Deep in the Talkeetna Mts...
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Hi bergbryce-

Awesome shot. Yeah!!!!!!

Cheers, Brian
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Jan 4, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 5, 2012 - 12:03am PT
Great shots rwedgee!

Cheers, Brian
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2012 - 12:54am PT
A few more from today.

Brian

climber
California
Jan 5, 2012 - 01:53am PT
Philo,

Is Talisman in? (Or, better, how is it in?) It's the one big tick left on my list for that area, though of course there's always more to do.

Brian
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 5, 2012 - 02:45am PT
Hi Philo-

Great photos and thread!

Thanks for sharing...

Cheers, Brian
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2012 - 09:46am PT
Talisman you queried?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 6, 2012 - 12:05am PT
Jay Smith under the road.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 6, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
Great shot Stewie!

Is that in the ice park?

Brian
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
Ed Hartouni at the Ice Fest
It was a true pleasure to finally meet the smartest man in climbing.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Jan 6, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
It was a true pleasure to finally meet the smartest man in climbing.

So who is it?














Just kidding Ed.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 6, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
It was a great pleasure to meet you philo

Interestingly, this is the fist climbing I've ever done in Colorado
More tomorrow!

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 6, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
"More tomorrow."? Nice try, hairy guy. Start typing.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 6, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
whats fist climbing?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2012 - 10:58am PT
^^^ Less than Wyde ^^^
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 7, 2012 - 11:31am PT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 7, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
Wow! Looks Like Colorado is haveing as poor of a snow year as us easterners.
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Jan 7, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
It has been like 50 degrees here past two days... I raked leaves off my deck in bare feet today. out of control. hate hate hate.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 7, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
Climbed perfect ice yesterday after work and skied the man made @ Okemo today. Pretty decent considering.. Hopeing to climb ice tomorrow. supposed to get cold again after midnight.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jan 7, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Hartouni
Way to go Dude!!
get a haircut!
dammed hippie!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jan 7, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
Hearty Congrats!!! to my friend Nathan Kutcher, who won the comp at the Ice Fest today. Strong guy and underground crusher! Nice going man!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
AKTrad schmoozin with the cuties at the Ice Fest.







On Friday the Ouray school teachers brought the kids for a gander. It was the world's cutest mobile Via Ferrata.




Here are two very hip nine year olds. The ambition of the little dude on the left is to climb the seven summits. Ahhh Youth.




philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2012 - 04:45am PT
And then, it was time to party!




Sorry for the non sequitur segue but sometimes ice climbing can be HOT!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
It's a Beeeeooooutiful day in the neighborhood....



Could you be mine, would you be mine, won't you be my belayer.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 8, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Nice Philo!

Quite a hotbed of honey haired hotties.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 9, 2012 - 02:55am PT


Rastafari Boots?~?~?~



hucklebear

Trad climber
NY
Jan 9, 2012 - 02:59am PT
Ed!
So cool to meet and climb with you today! I have learned so much from your postings.
I will definitely be out to the big rock this year, and would love to rope up.
Have fun on the Ames Ice Hose; looks sick!
Connie
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 9, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
A nice 60m Pillar in Bristol VT. We warmed up on a 100m slab. Nice sunset.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jan 9, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
whitney confines,

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 9, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Great to meet you to Connie
The Ames Ice Hose was great! Just got back, now time for the hot tube!!

A full TR will have to wait until I get back as all I have with me is my blackberry
Conrad

climber
Jan 9, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 9, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
holy falling belay ledge for three!

yikes!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2012 - 07:46am PT
Prideful ascent Ed!
Cheers to you!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 10, 2012 - 09:46am PT
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jan 10, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Cor -

Nice shots from Fitzroy!! Miss it there. :( I miss the ice cream shop in El Chalten too (....and the aspargas, smoked gouda and jamon pizza at Patagonicus)
cleo

Social climber
the canyon below the Ditch!!!!
Jan 10, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
tradman... Bristol, VT? I had never heard of ice there until now! Do tell!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 10, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
Ed, like Philo said, proud ascent, I didn't even know from your posts on here that you were an "ice fiend" BITD that was considered a serious undertaking, along with Skylight and Bird Brain Blvd. Can't wait to see the TR!

Philo!!!!! Fred Beckey's got nuthin on you dood!

Phil, is that one pic on Choppo's Chimney? I belayed Dickerson to the top of that one and then he didn't like the placements at the top (kinda warm that day) and downclimbed it.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Philo!!!!! Fred Beckey's got nuthin on you dood!
Except for about a hundred years of aging and experience. Ha Ha Ha.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Jan 10, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
Munge, I swear, I first thought your picture showed someone slacklining with crampons and boots. Now that would make for an interesting competition at the Ice Festival.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 10, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
Conrad! yikes mang!


Weeg, when was that taken? PHAT ICE



hrm, slacklining with cramps! now that would be sumpthin!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 10, 2012 - 07:20pm PT

Did The Ribbon today last climb of the trip

Home tomorrow
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 10, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Way to go Ed!
Cor

climber
Colorado
Jan 12, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
mooch, yeah i already miss it... hoping to get back down next season...

here is a few from houray.



philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Hey Cor, was that last pic from when your camera broke?
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jan 12, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Dood!......beauty shots...A++++!! We'll be up at Ouray on Presidents Day weekend. Any chance in spotting you and philo then?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
There is always a chance Mooch. Keep us informed of your travel itinerary.
Now that I am healing really want to get back down soon.
Cor

climber
Colorado
Jan 12, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
not sure when i will be down that way.

i do need to make a few trips south, but it
may not be to ouray specifically...

anyway, philo or me will keep you posted if we
are in the area!


Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 13, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Sometimes the ice is only kinda ok...
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
BAAAHHHHHH!
aka Ewe sickness.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Hey Hartouni, where are your pics?
Better yet how about a TR?
Sir Rockalot

Trad climber
Sacramento, Ca
Jan 13, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
Sik photo montage! Anyone up for some N. Sierra ice this weekend (MLK w/e)?? Hit me up! I'm in Sacramento, Ca.
Tim
jtwaring@hotmail.com
802-338-1597
Conrad

climber
Jan 13, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
Friday the 13th. Doug Chabot feeding the rat on Cleopatra's Needle, Hyalite, MT.





philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
Now there is a tilt shift that works.
sempervirens

climber
Jan 13, 2012 - 11:16pm PT




I had a great day today with this ice, took these photos. Have any of you done Frazier Falls?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 16, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
climblight

Mountain climber
Northern NV
Jan 16, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Frazier Falls
http://www.plumasnews.com/mcondon/9012-ice-climbers-tackle-frazier-falls
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 17, 2012 - 06:12pm PT


Dear Ice,
I miss you so.
Were it but that I could take off from work and caress your cold rounded features.
Munge
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 18, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Hyalite is really cool!





Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 18, 2012 - 09:59am PT
hey bergbryce, glad you made it to the snow lake flow.
weve decided to name this sweet climb after our mate Peter Minks. does "blue peter"sound good? cheers stewie
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2012 - 11:06am PT
Beats Blue Balls. LOL
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jan 18, 2012 - 11:14am PT
No great shakes, but even a little ice up on Ebbets pass about 100 ft from the highway.

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Coming up on six months post op and I did my first ice lead since before cervical fusion surgery.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 13, 2012 - 11:11am PT
Good job philo. Wish your recovery to continue!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 13, 2012 - 11:23am PT
Way to prance Philo!!!! You go boy!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 13, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
brought one of my co workers up his first ice climb ever, 3 pitches. P1 WI2, P2 WI3, P3 WI4 :) I figuered I could teach him on the first 2 easy pitches and he is strong and very capable kind of guy so he would be Ok on the last steep pitch. It worked out great and he has a heck of a story to tell those gym climbing wannabees:) Kyle on the 2nd pitch. Kyle topping out on P3
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
hey bergbryce, glad you made it to the snow lake flow.
weve decided to name this sweet climb after our mate Peter Minks. does "blue peter"sound good? cheers stewie

Oh man, I just saw this!!
I think it's a great name and a nice tribute to Peter.
Fun route in a spectacular setting.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 13, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
some might think that Peter is gay with that name? the whole blue thing... must be a better way to incorperate his name with the climb? peter's perils, peter's coular, etc???
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Feb 14, 2012 - 09:38am PT
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Feb 14, 2012 - 09:50am PT
sorry tradman! peter was everything but gay, a shagmaster if you will.
i mean doesnt anymen climb with ladies underthings on anymore?
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Feb 14, 2012 - 10:14am PT
Scott, does Silver Canyon ever form in spring conditions? I looked up at but did not hike up there over winter break, had know idea it was so big. I forgot names but were you climbing at True Value Crag? I talked to someone who hiked up Wolf creek for some other ice climbing?
Cor

climber
Colorado
Feb 14, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Feb 14, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
I don't know how or why it forms. It's has been a strange year like I'm stealing something.

Pray for snow

and

F*#k off you wankers

Minks gay HA Ha Ha
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 14, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Certainly did not mean any disrespect. just thought that was what blue means in this day and age?? thought that the name could be worded differently to avoid that connection?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 15, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
I managed to get on Ice for my first time this weekend at Big White ski resort.. They have a 60 foot ice tower there. I took a couple pics, pretty lame compared to yours tho..

Ice Tower

Me high on the tower
Sandra Topolay photo

My girlfriend

Me kicking steps
Sandra Topolay photo

Anyone ever build something like this?

edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Feb 26, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Some rare Boulder Batholith ice:


Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Feb 26, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 26, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Beloved Cody from a couple of weeks ago......

Main Vein one of the better multi pitch routes in the South Fork, short approach 40 mins, 500' or so of climbing and South Facing. Although this day we had no sun but the first time I climbed it was under beautiful blue skies.


The first pitch can be a little "testy" and not quite the WI3 rating the route holds.......








For the ten years or so I've been climbing in the South Fork this is a beauty of a route. The last 3-4 years have been with my wife who asked on the hike out in the dark with snow falling all around us, "how many times have you hiked to the car in the dark up here"

I told her, "once this is the first time"

I just wished for her sake we had clear blue skies as the view from the top pitch is awesome.
But we've shared a similar view from both sides of the valley together.


SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 26, 2012 - 10:38pm PT

Big smile there--I'm just a little (knot) bit envious!!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 26, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
Decko, great pictures of the Main Vein. I have wanted to do that one for a long time. Been up to it a couple of times but the first pitch has never been in good shape. Had to do with some local ice this weekend.
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
Feb 26, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Wow! Ice overload....I guess I'll have a scotch on the rocks.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Feb 27, 2012 - 12:45am PT
cross post: just added pix of Horsetail Falls near June Lake on the "FLANDERS!!" thread

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1745884&tn=40
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 29, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Gnarly ice..
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
A shot of Scott DeCapio leading The Replicant in obscenely fat conditions!

This route just comes pouring out of a hole in the limestone high on Mt. Rundle to yield one of the Trophy Wall's finest outings. Scott soloed the Sea Of Vapors that same season as it came all the way down at WI 5+!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Mar 10, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Steve great pic of the Replicant, that must have been the 97' season when the Trophy wall got climbed a bunch by less than super hero status ice climbers.

I just returned from the region this week and had a super trip climbing in the meca of frozen vertical water. Trip report to follow but till then here are a couple shots from last week.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
THE ice climbing destination to be sure!

Having recently seen Bruce Hendricks' shots of the FA on The Replicant it is amazing that those guys pulled that route off with about 1/3 actual coverage!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 11, 2012 - 08:26am PT
Me leading the last pitch of Blind Fate Smugglers Notch, VT Yesterday..
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 11, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
NYTimes Magazine... March 11, 2012

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2012/03/11/magazine/ice-climbers.html

ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Mar 11, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
holy sh#t -- someone soloed Vapors?? wow. just ... wow
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Mar 11, 2012 - 06:21pm PT


Compare to last April:

Some discussion and good pics of conditions so far this year for the Trophy Wall:
http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=11281#Post11281

Cheers!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 30, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
1997 was FAT indeed!

Climbing December 1997.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 5, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
Trophy Wall Ice Bump!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 5, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
Shiver me timbers!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 5, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
Climbed some ice today in -11 temps. It would crack in weird ways. Not real reasuring.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 5, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
Ever shivered 'em up in Banff Jim?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 5, 2014 - 07:03pm PT
I have indeed Steve. Going ice climbing tomorrow in Ouray and, hopefully, jumping on Birdbrain Blvd. on Tuesday.
Brian

climber
California
Jan 5, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
Going ice climbing tomorrow in Ouray and, hopefully, jumping on Birdbrain Blvd. on Tuesday

Have fun! I love that route. Best climb I've done in the area (though I've never done the Talisman... Big this winter I hear, so maybe this is the year!).
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 5, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
As the story goes, Alex Lowe found another good pin placement higher on the Sea of Vapors that made it a little less desperate on an early repeat.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 6, 2014 - 12:49am PT
I am not sure if it was the same season. Likely not as the FAers weren't pushing the repeat I bet. LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 15, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
The Terminator was well on it's way during the Banff Festival. We didn't have a chance to drive around and see what else was forming up.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Nov 15, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
tis the season...
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Nov 24, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
Barney Rubble

Trad climber
ALAMEDA
Nov 26, 2017 - 10:12am PT
How about a friendly game of name that climb/area? Let's start with a couple easy ones.






Now for a tricky one, unless (major hint) you're from the Pacific Northwest.


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