Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 116 of total 116 in this topic |
Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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That is über cool!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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no, but would love to know the location!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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Bring it bishes!
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apogee
climber
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Wild-ass guess: Judging by the choss, the moss, and the (relative) proximity to Dinney-land....my guess is somewhere around Malibu Creek...
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Truly bomber.
This is at a crag where Salamanizer also drilled in an old lost arrow piton as a hanger on a desperate route. Sorry I don't have a picture of that...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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Fall on that, I dare you.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Pinnacles!!!!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 12, 2011 - 09:37am PT
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I won't cheat since I talked to Joe about it last night.
But Munge, you and I and Dennis have been there together (we did all of the climbs in this sub-area during October 18 and 19, 1997). Funny thing is I had no memory of this little piece of humor either.
Edit: Actually I think you were there on the 18th, which is the day we did this route.
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part-time communist
climber
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Dec 12, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Eh. I'll throw in some canyoneering anchors for good measure.
If you want to become really good at building anchors, especially in utilizing natural features, start doing canyon first descents.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 12, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Fall on that, I dare you.
Didn't fall on it, but before removing it, out of curiousity, it was viciously bounce-tested, using big jumps and a totally static sling. That thing is definitely bomber.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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RGold I would not doubt it was bomber.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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I bootied this out of Tobin's Dihedral at Dome Rock. It's made of fairly low grade aluminum and the assembly quality is very poor.
It has the word "Gulag" and a logo on the stem.
It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary. You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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"You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?"
There should probably be at least a 50% chance that it might not fail
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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The angle of pull on this rappel looked as if it would have been torquing the nut as the wire was pulled across the direction of the crack. I wonder if the climbers shoved that rock in the crack in hopes it would keep the nut in? For the record, I did not rapp off this.
Are drilled angles really better than bolts in cruddy sandstone? I wonder if I should have at least tied this one off short to protect the crux tower move?
At least the drilled angle inspired some confidence. The star bolt and aluminum hanger on the left seemed suspect.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Shiho
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Dec 12, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 12, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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somebody needs to throw up a pick of the garbage can handle pro on that pinnacles classic "Twinkle toes traverse"
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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LMAO. That looks like a large thumb tack driven through the LA piton.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Dec 12, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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^ I *saw* it the exact same way! hahah
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Brad, it's not ringing any bells, or opening any bottles for that matter.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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Prairie Home Companion?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 12, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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Pinnacles. West Side. Classic but little visited routes.
Edit: we were posting at the same time. Close, very close.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 10:58am PT
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maybe this isn't a popular route...any guesses?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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the most famous placement in southern Washington/northern Oregon! On the SE corner route of Beacon Rock.
http://vimeo.com/32887266
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 13, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Jack Holmgren style bolts, with the epoxy?
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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bingo Clint! we have a winner...
have you been on this route? I'm wondering how many ascents it has seen...
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Dec 13, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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How about this for a rap anchor?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 13, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
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The sort of thing that instills confidence.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Dec 13, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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I had forgotten the trash can lid handle on Twinkle Toes. Thanks for refreshing my memory!
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Dec 14, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 14, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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According to my friend any pro on the Fisher Towers is scary...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 14, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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We have a winner, thanks to Philo's resurrection:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 14, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Damn... this one was just no good...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 14, 2011 - 05:20pm PT
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Hell, I got a pic of a 4 nut stack I can TELL you was bomber ;)
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George R
climber
The Gray Area
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Dec 14, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
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That garage door handle looks like "Twinkle Toes Traverse" at the Pinnacles. My very first lead, BITD! The regular bolt hanger wasn't there then, I just slung the handle and kept climbing.
G
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Dec 15, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Is that Paul Ross? Never met him, but I know people that know him and I've seen some pics of some of his "routes". That guy could climb an overhanging junk yard....oh yeah, he has :-)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 15, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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Jurassic or Cretaceous?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 15, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 15, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
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Repost, but I haven't uploaded pics yet of recent adventures.
This held two 40-50 foot sliders (one for each of us), and then was used as a rap anchor. The pic was taken before the second slider and rap:
I think it was even a self-cleaning anchor, just a little rope flip to get the nut back!
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jeff_m
Social climber
700' up
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Dec 15, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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A climbing-relevant thread? How anti-social...
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Dec 15, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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anyone have pics of the rap anchors off hummingbird spire - or really any of the bridgers? hoo boy
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 19, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Jeff_m,
that last one from Red Rocks? Near Panty Wall, just up and left, before I think someone got out there and revamped the anchors?
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NDF
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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Worked for the railroad 50 years ago, should still be good.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
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Yep Joe, I remember that bolt hanger!
Jack rated the route .11c, hardest in-stance at the Pinns, I believe.
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schaffner
Trad climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Asgard or bust
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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"Bomber" is in the eye of the beholder, as always.
Pick well, ok? Wouldja?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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This will work in a pinch...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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Always a favorite..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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Bomb making
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Asgard or bust
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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Hey Todd......That's a lotta hangers......You ARE hangin' them on the Goods, right?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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I'd go on it....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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perswig
climber
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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We elected to add the red and yellow web; somehow the cord wasn't inspiring.
Dale
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
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it's just the sheath...the core is good....don't be so paranoid...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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Totally bombproof.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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sport climber's special..
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Todd,
Are those beaks aluminum?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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Bomber and ...organized too....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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They are sort of beack-stoppers-hooks-pitons.....a 4-in-one unit;.......made in Bridwell's garage by the master machine-head himself...
.........
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Asgard or bust
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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Stainless, maybe? Curious, is all.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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Bomber........(They held Big Al didn't they...)...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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Tied off Gumby....bomber...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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Those KBs are bomber.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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belaying off of one bolt....(a homemade hanger too...).....bomber......
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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rebar...bomber...(it's backed up with that pin too....)....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Asgard or bust
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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Uh oh. Todd's on a roll.
Go, Todd!!!!!6!!!!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Fully bomber...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
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It ain't gonna fall over...it's bomber...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Oleanano
Mountain climber
Milano - Italy
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Dec 21, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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A small contribute from Italy. Pictures of Bomber Pro pieces from Formica route on the Medale wall - Lecco area - Northern Italy. It's an old aid climbing route from years 70.ies. Enjoy!
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Dec 21, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 02:10am PT
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Not mine but some dudes on the Great sail peak got caught up in this A3ish copperhead seam.
looks like grand fun...
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BillL
Trad climber
NM
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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Bacon pro!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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hahaha
awesome
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Dec 31, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 31, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Jay! No way! did you actually use that? (the cam hooks)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 31, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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This rig was about 40 feet west of the Jardine Corner on the Nose. Someone must have rapped off somewhere on the traverse to Camp IV, couldn't find any anchor and placed and used this. Dolt Tower is a bit down and to the right.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 10, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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Mmmm... bacon! That had me howling out loud!
And a bunch of pics here give me that little pain in my chest just like the moment before weighting something that I'd rather not.
Here's another oldie but goodie:
And here's what you see from the stance (usually I'm not there):
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 11, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Urk! I think I threw up a little.
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jan 16, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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I love a good pin!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 16, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Jul 28, 2012 - 08:20am PT
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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A Fine Day!!
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jul 28, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Domngo,
That bolt hanger, the only way I can imagine breaking that hanger would be a rock fall.
Any details???
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 28, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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Rap anchor
Here's an anchor - none. Bottomless depth hoar. Do pickets work? - no. Deadmen? - no. The plan that if one of us fell off one side, the other would jump off the to the other side.
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
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Jul 29, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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[/url]
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Jul 29, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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Grampa - that photo was taken in April on the south peak east face at Seneca just as you near the top. Unfortunately I'm not sure about the details let alone which route its from, but as its kinda loose up there I wouldn't rule rockfall out.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Big ol' 1/2-inch steel rods with eyelets drilled into soft sandstone for rap anchors - Wadi Rum, Jordan (March 2012)
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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bullfrog
Trad climber
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I always liked this one:
It's cool though because the climbing is easy and you can back it up:
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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^Pinnacles! Old Original
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bullfrog
Trad climber
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^^Right area but wrong climb. Twinkle Toes Traverse. Old Original starts on the opposite side of the formation.
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ELM !
climber
Near Boston
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Grampa
climber
from SoCal
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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Tahquitz Rock Pro, kinda hard to clip in....
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jeff_m
Social climber
700' up
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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3/16" aluminum and the biner don't fit...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Chief, that last one is a beeyoot!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 26, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
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upward driven pins are generally amusing. generally.
i think nutjob won the thread though with that sheared-off rusty stub
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| Messages 1 - 116 of total 116 in this topic |
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