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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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That is über cool!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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no, but would love to know the location!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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Bring it bishes!
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apogee
climber
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Wild-ass guess: Judging by the choss, the moss, and the (relative) proximity to Dinney-land....my guess is somewhere around Malibu Creek...
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Truly bomber.
This is at a crag where Salamanizer also drilled in an old lost arrow piton as a hanger on a desperate route. Sorry I don't have a picture of that...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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Fall on that, I dare you.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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Pinnacles!!!!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 12, 2011 - 09:37am PT
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I won't cheat since I talked to Joe about it last night.
But Munge, you and I and Dennis have been there together (we did all of the climbs in this sub-area during October 18 and 19, 1997). Funny thing is I had no memory of this little piece of humor either.
Edit: Actually I think you were there on the 18th, which is the day we did this route.
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part-time communist
climber
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Dec 12, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Eh. I'll throw in some canyoneering anchors for good measure.
If you want to become really good at building anchors, especially in utilizing natural features, start doing canyon first descents.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 12, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Fall on that, I dare you.
Didn't fall on it, but before removing it, out of curiousity, it was viciously bounce-tested, using big jumps and a totally static sling. That thing is definitely bomber.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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RGold I would not doubt it was bomber.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 12, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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I bootied this out of Tobin's Dihedral at Dome Rock. It's made of fairly low grade aluminum and the assembly quality is very poor.
It has the word "Gulag" and a logo on the stem.
It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Dec 12, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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It was tied off with a small loop of tat and a biner, kind of looked like someone bailed off it. Scary. You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Dec 12, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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"You wouldn't leave a good piece behind, would you?"
There should probably be at least a 50% chance that it might not fail
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 12, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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The angle of pull on this rappel looked as if it would have been torquing the nut as the wire was pulled across the direction of the crack. I wonder if the climbers shoved that rock in the crack in hopes it would keep the nut in? For the record, I did not rapp off this.
Are drilled angles really better than bolts in cruddy sandstone? I wonder if I should have at least tied this one off short to protect the crux tower move?
At least the drilled angle inspired some confidence. The star bolt and aluminum hanger on the left seemed suspect.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Shiho
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Dec 12, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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