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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 23, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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Wedberg - Nice pics.
When I looked at that ice on Tuesday-Dec20 in the afternoon, the wind was blowing and the air temp was pushing 40. The ice looked like it had seen a lot of sun and seemed pretty thin on the steep headwall.
Well done and congratulations!
Bill
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:23am PT
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Thanks Bill,
The route gets morning sun at around 8-ish. The 22nd was definitely more windy than the 19th when Trevor and I climbed Drug Dome. The wind stayed with us for the entire time we were on the route. The air temperature remained cold and the ice never showed signs of water dripping. The sun leaves the route by early afternoon.
The photo galleries are almost done uploading now as I type this. You can view the rest of the photos here:
Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Kurt Wedberg's Photos
Tuolumne Ice December 22, 2011, Trevor Anthes's Photos
Thanks again Bill. Perhaps I'll see you out there one of these days!!
Kurt
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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good job wedburg, nice
18 degrees here in e.p.
i've been helf expecting someone to be on silver strand the last couple days, maybe today???
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Wedberg
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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good job wedberg, nice Thanks man... it was a fun climb. Thanks for all your pics of these various formations that are in right now.
Trevor is having trouble finding the history of this route we just climbed. Do you or anybody else out there know anything? Who did the FA? What year? Any cool stories about it?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 23, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Posting from LatteDa in Lee Vining. Just came over from the Valley. South rim of the Valley, all waterfalls are formed up as u can see from pics above. Ice skating on Tenaya lake on 6" of ice. Good ice in Lee Vining Cyn. Several parties climbing. Yours truly testing out the new Black Prophet tools I got from TYeary on the left side falls below the dam. Easy access right now. Pictures to follow when I get home n unload the camera.
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JamesG
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Dec 23, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Man, I need to get out on some of this ice, anyone up for 1-2-12? I've done mostly snow slogs so steep ice will be new for me.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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cooler the last couple days, so everything is building fatter!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 23, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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E and I did the upper Sentinal falls this morning. It was 3 fun pitches probably 600' worth of blue ice. First pitch WI4 second WI3 and the third a 2. A little wet but not to bad. We were hoping for a bigger prize like the Strand but we didn't feel like it was quite ready. We bagged the Drug Dome route and upper Sentinal going home with 5 pitches of ice neither of us had done before. I am driving home content.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Spider, hopped on that stuff below the dam yesterday. Fun stuff and you can't beat the approach
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 23, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Say good bye to the Ice
just a prediction
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 06:41am PT
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Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?
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rdh
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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Anyone: where did yabo's tooth get it's name?
Yabo had this f*#ked-up tooth that he could pull out of its socket (and then put back into) with his tongue.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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at least this one will be good for a couple months
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks for the story Fos.
Kurt I looked at that Thursday I think... isn't it right where "Fuel Rod" is located?
Nice score!
Thanks for all the post from everyone.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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As promised, photos from Friday:
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superbum
Ice climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Yea, McTwist...Matt and I both have recieved yer photos! thanks again!
And nice job, Trevor and Kurt!! Matt and I looked at that, but didn't have time for a "close look..." maybe next week??? :)
So psyched for my next days off!!!!!
vic
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perswig
climber
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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SS, bent-shaft Shrikes in the 2nd pic?
My first 'real' WI tools. Poor technique still led to sore knuckles.
Dale
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big piner
Mountain climber
Big Pine, CA
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Dec 24, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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McTwisted -- thanks for the great photos!!! Climbing the white line on Drug Dome with Vic was fun, and to have you capture a few images was the coolest gift ever. You are the Santa I never had.
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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since there's a few more ice climbers now than back when i used to climb ice, i just wanted to let you guys know that the ice climbs in the valley area that survive the warm snaps are usually upper sentinal and white fang (they are both much more stable than the ice down lower in the valley. both are up high and in the shade, and a pretty quick approach now with the glacier point road open. theres some pretty good info from tommy's post on the upper sentinal back a few posts, i'm not sure if my beta to him was correct for these conditions but you can almost walk down to the base of the 3-4 pitches if you take the ramp down (to the east of the climb), we had snow years ago when i did it so did perhaps one rappel to get to the bottom of the ramp.
also if your looking for some mellow wi3- (2 pitch) to play on, consider white fang, sue and i lead the main route and t.r. ed another nearby, but there was one route way left (shown in photo) and one way right, that is hidden by buttress. probably in the same range of difficulty, that may have never been climbed. i dont know anyone thats ever been out there, except chapman and rudy tried to find it years ago and got turned around in the woods. to get there park at the taft point trailhead, walk to taft, then west following the rim, to ice (1.1mi. to taft then west less than mile??? to ice) big trees to rap in to bottom, around 200'???.
you can lead or do everything on t.r. with big tree anchors. the ice can be seen by walking more west around to the top of the buttress that can be seen in the pic, to the west of ice
white fang can be seen from the pullout near the entrance to manure pile, and upper sentinal best from pullout before rixons
this would be a great weekend destination to do both climbs, and if a guy really wanted to get the heart pumping you could go down to the yabo tooth too !(hee hee)
also for you eastside guys looking for another 2 pitch route, sue and i (when we lived at tpr in the winter) did this cool wi3 back at cascade lake (at the base of north peak). go to north side of saddlebag, hike to cascade lake and you will see beautiful east facing blue ice, when we did it there was a great big ice cave half way up the route to belay in
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