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Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Dec 30, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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Nemesis is modern grade V....only 3rd pitch and depending if you take it all the way out and do a hanging belay way up there.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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From a CO perspective the 1975 photo looks positively fat! The current conditions not so much . . . however it does look doable In Mr. McTwisted's images if you are willing to accept the risks.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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What I was trying to say (finishing up my previous post) was the post storm cold snap allowed just enough ice to form filling in the upper "headwall". This is one of the steeper sections and where I took my fall. Still can't believe I wasn't injured. It was hollow, thin, and running with water. You can just make out two parallel ribs of ice in this section. I climbed the left one. Spooky climbing past the fracture point. Had we not managed on this attempt we would have been out of luck. It didn't ice up again until the winter of 78/79 when it was mega thick and bomber. I just had to do it again!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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You are right Kalimon--a lot of what you see in this photo was fat. The pitch Kev led off the snow ledge (our second bivy was off to the right) was the best ice of the whole climb. Absolutely bomber and not too steep. The headwall was another matter. The last two pitches were quite good as well. The first pitch (not pictured) was quite thin. The middle steep section (also not pictured) had some hollow rottenish ice as well.
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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Dec 31, 2015 - 06:00am PT
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This route would be soloed
On a regular basis if it was in
The Rockies
Currently I'm in Belieze
And headed home
Someone please break the trail
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Kevin, PM sent. If you didn't get it, email xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
The supertopo PM service is sh#t and does not work most of the time.
Stewart, when are you coming?
PS: supposedly someone is climbing it today, so the trail should be broken. :)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 31, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Party on the Widows Tears right now 1/3 way up .....
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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Yehhaaawww!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Dec 31, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
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12/31/15
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fosburg
climber
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Dec 31, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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Thanks for the great photos Dan!
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WBraun
climber
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Lot's of ice to be climbed right now.
It's everywhere here right NOW.
Instead the stupor topo people are talking about the past .....
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NorCalHutch
Ice climber
NorCal
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Some pictures from yesterday. It was great to meet you Mike and Sarah and thanks for sharing the climb!
Something epic going down on the Tears this morning....
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nice!
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Stewart Johnson
Social climber
lake forest
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Thanks for the info !
85 degrees here in Belize...
Nice to see the ice back in!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I sent an email about this thread to some bad ass CO mixed and ice climbers, suggesting that they make a trip to Yo. Does anyone know when it will warm up and melt?
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