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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 10, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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I remember having to take my glasses off to turn my head around. Sadly, that is no longer the widest constraint.
I resemble that remark! Wait a minute; you can turn your head there?
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 10, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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though maybe trying to make any use of those features is "wrong" beta?
Right beta is whatever helps you send. I do not think for me those tick marks will help. If I was a 120lb euro crimp machine, I probably would use that sh#t and it would work. What works for me is jams in the back, high left foot, stand up high, shuffle hands into the better jam spot and lock yourself in with the right knee, and move up as fast as possible to get into a more secure body jam. I go left side in. This isn't the RIGHT way. I saw people going right side in, stemming and doing better than me. If you are a more advanced climber you can probably skin this cat using multiple different techniques and be totally fine.
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mdanek
Trad climber
California
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Nov 10, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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Any beta how to lead & protect the slot outside?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 10, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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Someone on the previous page has a large photo - #6 camalot.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Nov 10, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Left side in, I just jammed straight on until I can lean back and feel the chimney. I must say I have belayed two folks, one leading and one following who couldn't fit through the slot and had to lie back the outside edge. The leader had a huge run out.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nov 10, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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Interesting.
Getting into the Slot was never a problem the four times I've done the route.
Getting through the damned thing was easy once and the crux of the whole route three times.
I recall right side in was easier.
One of the more memorable trips up was with Kevin one afternoon after doing The Rostrum in the morning.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Nov 10, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Ha ha! +1 for Tami! Just did again for the 5th time last month and both my partner & I did it left side in, we're both californicators though.
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