Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
|
if you have to ask,
maybe (edit: probably) you also don't know enough to be properly placing bolts....
Bosch with Hilti bits.
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
|
Yeah, that advice is a bit late. I already put up a bunch of crappy routes. Some with bolts, some without. If I have to lug a big heavy roto hammer around I will probably put in even fewer bolts so maybe me buyin a drill will be an improvement for the climbing world.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
|
Screw it, i kind of like wierdly bolted obscure crags. Why not?
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
|
DES! we still gotta finish that high peaks project!
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
|
Sal,
Most definitely. I think that qualifies as both crappy and weirdly bolted. it was a fun day though.
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
|
my feet still hurt. im such a pansy, that last bolt was the most scared ive been in years.
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 12:38am PT
|
Good times, off the couch. You were out there on loose, mossy, crud. Next time I am bringing my harness.
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 12:41am PT
|
Warbler, thank you for the tip. I will keep an eye out for one of those. that is about my price range.
I'm gonna be dangerous....
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 12:46am PT
|
haha forgot the harness thing, but as i recall i forgot mine for the column years ago, as well as my helmet! seems like im always off the couch. gotta work on that.
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 12:48am PT
|
ran 3 miles today and did a couple planks. Look out!
|
|
salad
climber
Escondido
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 01:27am PT
|
did 8 yesterday and had to cancel skating tonight cause my legs are toast.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 01:43am PT
|
> Yeah, that advice is a bit late. I already put up a bunch of crappy routes.
I believe I joined in on several of those!
Mr. Mud, are you gonna powerdrill on lead?
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 02:35am PT
|
Clint, yep you were there with the best crappy ones and I think we have at least one to finish.
yeah, on lead. I may be slipping but I still cannot get into rap bolting. Unless it is to replace bolts. Then I figure what ever it takes to get it right. I suppose it should not matter, but well whatever.
Good to hear from you. I hope to actually climb a couple of times this year.
How many secret projects do you have going? :)
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 02:46am PT
|
Sal,
8 miles, your still a beast. Just started running a couple of weeks ago. Still trying to build up the knee by running on the treadmill so it is a bit mind numbing. Will try out the trails behind work in couple of weeks just to see how the leg holds up. Feels good to be back in the gym. Could barely walk after the 2nd week.
|
|
JimT
climber
Munich
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 02:53am PT
|
For some reason, while a quality build, the Metabo I bought is the slowest thing I´ve ever used. The numbers are good but it just doesn´t seem to get into the rock properly and is now relegated to building work.
This may be due to the hardness of the rock, in marble which is very hard to drill it was piss, in coarse granite good, in fine granite again piss.
When people ask about drills they always forget to tell us, rap drilling or lead drilling. For rap drilling the big Bosch, the big Makita and the Hilti´s (Hitachi also have a good reputation but I´ve never used one) are good but for lead bolting overhanging routes they are arm killers and nearly impossible to use one handed. For roofs and overhanging lead bolting you need to go down to something like a 14V Makita which is what I use. Or you go for the middle ground with a typical 18V drill at about 3 kg which does neither particularly well.
And for all the claimed advantages of Li-ion the batteries are still sh#t, the lifespan is very short compared with Ni-cads (I´m still on an original Bosch Ni-cad in a Bulldog after maybe 10,000 holes and 11 years) whereas my big Makita Li-ion is on it´s second battery after 3 years and a tenth of the work.
For rap bolting being light doesn´t really matter anyway, in fact it makes the drilling slower and harder on your hands as the inertia of the drill is less. All that hammer action comes from somewhere and it is you!
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2011 - 03:08am PT
|
JimT,
good input thank you. I was looking at the small roto drills and wondering how they would do. I guess you answered my question. I used a bosch on a slab and was wondering how the sam hill people use those on steep routes. They are a tad heavy. It looks like the answer is to cheat and use a smaller hammer. Most likely takes longer, but faster than by hand plus it leaves one hand to hang on with.
again, thank you
|
|
jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 03:19am PT
|
i like my de-walt drill a lot its drilled hundreds of holes and is still very happy
i think i coulda got 50 holes on one battery in this pile... not that it would needed that many but...
|
|
jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 03:21am PT
|
de walt all the way!!!
shit but i guess i prolly shoulda just slung that tree
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 03:58am PT
|
> I think we have at least one to finish.
Yeah, after a little thought I remember it! I wonder if the holds are still there.
One good trick for powerdrilling on lead is to move the batteries off the drill, and connect with an "extension cord".
That way you don't have to lift the battery weight up over your head.
My friend Joel has his Bosch set up that way, and you could probably even arrange to borrow it if you want to check it out.
It has also been explained here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/603971/Bosch-Bulldog-Convertiing-to-SLA-batteries-step-by-step
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2011 - 06:24am PT
|
Mudslinger. no offense intended. just comeing off a bad experience where a friend of mine bought a bosch this summer and placed 100 bolts. of those hundred he managed 2 1/2 pitch routs that are ok and one that is pretty decent. the rest of them are a total eyesore or just rediclously stupid... leaves me a bit nervous whenever someone buys a drill..
the light bosch is 6.6lbs and i took the front handle off to lose a bit more weight. do not know much about the makitas but assume they are good? one trick is to have the drill on a tag line and pull it up when you need to drill. the whole thing where you do have to push on the drill makes it harder to drill from some stances that you could have hand drilled from.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!