Crack climbing- getting started.

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chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Dec 8, 2011 - 05:22pm PT

Here is Supercrack in about '86. Looking a lot fresher to me.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2011 - 04:29pm PT

I am doing a crack climbing clinic for Chilean guides tomorrow in San Pedro de Atacama. One thing I know for sure....I won't get rained out.

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber

Central Valley, CA

Dec 9, 2011 - 05:09pm PT

Here's a video of me climbing the 5.9 crack at our gym here in Fresno. Shot with the GoPro Hero 2. The crux is the section from the yellow/black L shaped tape to the lip. The crack here is flared outwards and overhung. The moves are a little delicate.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Dec 9, 2011 - 06:10pm PT

Hey Donini - is the venue you're climbing at near San Pedro outside of the little desert hamlet of Socaire?

In a deep trough they call the Quebrada de Serpiente, or maybe it was Ojos de Serpiente? Neat volcanic rock, with a mix of pocketed steep faces and splitter cracks running down both sides of the ravine?

Lucky enough to spend a week there in '04... what a spot.

Post up pics of your spot if you can.

Keith Leaman

Trad climber

Seattle

Dec 10, 2011 - 06:06pm PT

Donini,
Most of the images for climbing in San Pedro de Atacama that I found on the net look like bolted sport routes. Hope you post some pix from your trip!!

philo

Trad climber

Somewhere halfway over the rainbow

Dec 10, 2011 - 06:17pm PT

Nice photography but I was also taken by the change to SC. It has really gotten bull-nosed and polished since the 70s. I guess I am spoiled by the less crowded pre-cam days. A whole lot fewer folks were jammin' their paws in those cracks before spring loaded "Crack Jummars" made the routes available to the great unwashed proletariat. A still beautiful crack but very much different than the early years.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Dec 11, 2011 - 11:53am PT

There's always room for refinement Riley. I've been at this and climbed cracks longer than most posters here(including you, Rad) have been alive, and I'm still, every day, refining crack techniques I don't 'get'. Isn't that the point of this? You Bhuddists have your definitions, but we taosists 'know' that we are on a road that can't be known... That's why we do it.