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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Nov 28, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
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If you knock out your belayer, or the rock fall smashes into his/her brake arm- then the grigri will in fact save your ass. Disputing this is laughable.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 28, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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I tend to agree that the use of a grigri is safer, adds another layer of protection with its autolocking capability. I don't use a grigri much, but sometimes it is the wise choice, and lower offs when you're sport climbing are so much smoother and easier on your hands if you are the belayer.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 28, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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...and tap or wiggle suspicious rock before cranking down on it during an ascent...
RR rock isn't as solid as midwest or SE sandstone, learning to judge the quality of holds and to move gently on them is an imperative for climbing there or you'll constantly be pulling holds. The rain isn't an issue after about 24-48 hours other than being a part of the natural weathering processes out there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 28, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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There have been fatalities at Red Rocks in the past couple of years, due to holds breaking on easy pitches which were runout. So your experience was not the first or the worst. Still scary, though.
As you stated, you can often "test" holds by hitting them with the heel of your hand, or prying on them (gently at first) with your fingers to see if they flex.
Often you can still use them if they flex just a little, but of course you will be looking for other holds as well. Standing on them can be worse.
One of the keys on a crag with breakable rock is to have the belayer off to the side, and out of the direct path of rockfall.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 28, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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Seems like you end up placing gear behind some relatively fragile features while at Red Rocks as well. I would think rain would weaken these significantly as well.
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