Climb cautiously even a weeks after rainfall on sandstone

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carmelo

Sport climber

columbus ohio

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 24, 2011 - 04:10pm PT

Recently I took a trip out to red rock Nevada. A few weeks before our arrival they had some rain fall throughout the canyon. Considering the amount of time that had lapse since the rainy weather we were not concerned. It was the last day of our trip, being hungover and sore we decided to do some sport climbing in a heavily climbed area just below panty wall. I was ascending the second climb of the day, taking my time, and enjoying the view. I was at the last bolt I set my feet grabbed a huge jug with my right hand Which broke instantly apon applying pressure. I yelled "ROCK" then "TAKE" The next thing that went through my mind was an instant replay of the safety check prior to the climb, my brain hit the pause button with a vivid picture of my belayer. Two things stuck out immediately, my belayer had no helmet and was using a ATC instead of the Grigi, that was burried at the bottom of my climbing bag. I heard the rock hit and explode on the ground in between my belayer and another belayer on the route next to me. The rock was about the size of a grape fruit. The other climbers said they see this happen a lot, after a rain people will climb and loosen the rock, unfortunately the climbers who accent the the route long after the rain are the ones that pay for it. Lesson to learned make sure your belayer wears a helmet at all times, use a Grigi, and tap or wiggle suspicious rock before cranking down on it during an ascent even weeks after a rain when climbing on sandstone.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 24, 2011 - 04:17pm PT

Nice heads up Carmelo. Caution should be exercised with all types of rock at all times- look at the massive rock slides in Yosemite, a place renowned for impeccable granite. A Grigri ,however, is not in my future.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Nov 24, 2011 - 04:24pm PT

Everybody who does battle with sandstone knows this.

Rain weakens sandstone!!!!

carmelo

Sport climber

columbus ohio

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 05:40pm PT

Bluering must be one of those people who have been everywhere but the electric chair, and seen everything but the wind. Must be nice being born already knowing everything there to is to know about life. Dork

johnboy

Trad climber

Can't get here from there

Nov 24, 2011 - 06:23pm PT

There are many variables to consider when climbing on sandstone after a moisture has fallen and the short list is,
amount of rain/snow permeated in the different parts of the face and cracks,
density of stone,
time of year,
temps,
amount of sunshine or shade,
wind,
latitude.

When to climb? Depends.

rincon

Trad climber

SoCal

Nov 24, 2011 - 06:30pm PT

A few weeks seems like plenty of time for the rock to dry. Coulda just been a loose hold...not uncommon at RR!

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Nov 24, 2011 - 06:30pm PT

There is really only one thing you need to know when you climb desert sandstone;

YER GONNA DIE!!!

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber

I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!

Nov 24, 2011 - 08:55pm PT

it is from the cold weather.

the kalciamite crystals get elongated into C matrix cleavage,

just wear a crotch warmer, and the holds will hold.

cintune

climber

Midvale School for the Gifted

Nov 24, 2011 - 09:38pm PT

Randisi, where'd you boulder? Most Pa./Appalachian sandstone is more consolidated than the stuff in Nevada, the granules were cemented under the pressures that raised the mountains; in the eastern part of the state it's all quartzite, in the west it's still technically sandstone but way more bullet compared to desert rock.

cintune

climber

Midvale School for the Gifted

Nov 24, 2011 - 09:51pm PT

Yep, but eastern Pa. near Harrisburg. Best bouldering we have is diabase at Governor Stable and Gretna, but quite a few little crags on South Mtn. and in the Susquehanna gorge. The Safe Harbor sport areas are finally open again too, psyched to get down there.

sandstone conglomerate

climber

sharon conglomerate central

Nov 24, 2011 - 10:01pm PT

You ever check out the sandstone at Cooper's Rock outside Morgantown, WV.? another gem with endless possibilities. I've heard it described as gritstone, and it lives up to its name. Climable even when wet, like hanging on an emery board. How about McConnell's Mills? Eastern sandstone has its charms...

cintune

climber

Midvale School for the Gifted

Nov 24, 2011 - 10:20pm PT

Been to McConnels and Ohiopyle, but not Coopers, yet anyway. Always wanted to make a roundtrip to the New and then up there, but gotta find the time.

tornado

climber

lawrence kansas

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:15am PT

screw your grigri. Happy thanksgiving!

YoungGun

climber

North

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:21am PT

A couple of months ago my friend broke off a jug and almost hit me with it. On granite. Could happen anywhere, rain or no rain.

LuckyPink

climber

the last bivy

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:25am PT

yeah.. all rock is wild.

rlf

Trad climber

Josh, CA

Nov 25, 2011 - 08:23am PT

A grigi is not going to save you any better than an ATC. It's the belayer that saves, not the device.

A week or more after rain is usually enough to dry things out. My guess, this is a heavy traffic area. Stuff comes loose.

sandstone conglomerate

climber

sharon conglomerate central

Nov 25, 2011 - 08:39am PT

cintue, coops is worth a week of investigation. Chestnut Ridge campground puts you in walking distance of endless sandstone. Bring extra fingertips because you will wear out the ones you have. Good times. Also, the debauchery of morgantown awaits.