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Messages 41 - 47 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2014 - 12:34am PT
It would be big fun if Woodward and Honnold would chime in and compare notes on the "hardest Grade VI in the world."
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 3, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Anyone get on this thing? Stories of recent ascents? Failures? Bailures?



Around 1984 I swapped leads on the first five pitches with an exceptional face climber/ranger (at the time) from Devils Tower named Lynn Wolfe. When it became my turn to lead the first 5.11 pitch (at the time, P5) I hucked off twice; the second time losing my glasses and getting the wind knocked out of me in a backwards tumbling fall when my foot slid into a bolt; this after maybe 340+ feet of sustained climbing with far too few bolts. We retreated shortly afterwards, and I still consider that one of my climbing high points and finer on-sights, due to the poor/scant conditions of the bolts and the commitment required.

We were both wearing Boreal Fires at the time.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 3, 2014 - 10:40am PT
It would be big fun if Woodward and Honnold would chime in and compare notes on the "hardest Grade VI in the world."


You mean the Dawn Wall?

Kidding, back to HOM,


Actually, I've got some notes for the first few pitches. The first two are killer .10d's, kicked my ass. Then we hit a run-out .10a pitch that was wet and I caught Rubine three times, takin' 50+ whippers. I pulled in handfulls of rope so he wouldn't swing through the belay. But my notes end there.
jonnywoodward

climber
Feb 18, 2018 - 07:32pm PT
Just read through this thread. Brings back some memories. Such a high quality route.

Also saw this quote from Honnold taken from his email (in one of the first page posts) ...

"We rapped from the top of 15, like
it shows on the topo. "

The 165' rappel note at the end of P15 was to show that you could actually bypass a diagonal rap to the Flake in the Sky anchor back when 50m ropes were the longest you could buy, not a mandate to go down before the end.

Too bad. All that effort and he was just one pitch away from doing the 3rd ascent.

jw

PS. Yep, this is clearly still harder than the Dawn. No doubt about it. Neither Caldwell nor Ondra have done it, after all.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Feb 18, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
Apron bump . . . slip sliding away.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Feb 18, 2018 - 11:29pm PT
All the route is waiting for now is an on sight free-solo. Batter up!
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 19, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Bump for hard slab history.
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