Hall of Mirrors

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2014 - 12:34am PT
It would be big fun if Woodward and Honnold would chime in and compare notes on the "hardest Grade VI in the world."
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 3, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Anyone get on this thing? Stories of recent ascents? Failures? Bailures?



Around 1984 I swapped leads on the first five pitches with an exceptional face climber/ranger (at the time) from Devils Tower named Lynn Wolfe. When it became my turn to lead the first 5.11 pitch (at the time, P5) I hucked off twice; the second time losing my glasses and getting the wind knocked out of me in a backwards tumbling fall when my foot slid into a bolt; this after maybe 340+ feet of sustained climbing with far too few bolts. We retreated shortly afterwards, and I still consider that one of my climbing high points and finer on-sights, due to the poor/scant conditions of the bolts and the commitment required.

We were both wearing Boreal Fires at the time.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 3, 2014 - 10:40am PT
It would be big fun if Woodward and Honnold would chime in and compare notes on the "hardest Grade VI in the world."


You mean the Dawn Wall?

Kidding, back to HOM,


Actually, I've got some notes for the first few pitches. The first two are killer .10d's, kicked my ass. Then we hit a run-out .10a pitch that was wet and I caught Rubine three times, takin' 50+ whippers. I pulled in handfulls of rope so he wouldn't swing through the belay. But my notes end there.
jonnywoodward

climber
Feb 18, 2018 - 07:32pm PT
Just read through this thread. Brings back some memories. Such a high quality route.

Also saw this quote from Honnold taken from his email (in one of the first page posts) ...

"We rapped from the top of 15, like
it shows on the topo. "

The 165' rappel note at the end of P15 was to show that you could actually bypass a diagonal rap to the Flake in the Sky anchor back when 50m ropes were the longest you could buy, not a mandate to go down before the end.

Too bad. All that effort and he was just one pitch away from doing the 3rd ascent.

jw

PS. Yep, this is clearly still harder than the Dawn. No doubt about it. Neither Caldwell nor Ondra have done it, after all.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Feb 18, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
Apron bump . . . slip sliding away.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Feb 18, 2018 - 11:29pm PT
All the route is waiting for now is an on sight free-solo. Batter up!
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 19, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Bump for hard slab history.
D2R2

Sport climber
Earth
Feb 19, 2018 - 02:04pm PT
"We rapped from the top of 15, like
it shows on the topo. "

The 165' rappel note at the end of P15 was to show that you could actually bypass a diagonal rap to the Flake in the Sky anchor back when 50m ropes were the longest you could buy, not a mandate to go down before the end.

Too bad. All that effort and he was just one pitch away from doing the 3rd ascent.

DOH!
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Mar 1, 2018 - 10:38pm PT
Credit: BG
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 2, 2018 - 08:39am PT
Free soloed Misty Beethoven BITD but I seriously doubt that anyone will take on the rest of Hall of Mirrors on sight!
But you never know...
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Mar 2, 2018 - 11:50am PT
Free soloing both pitches of "Misty Beethoven" sounds like quite a feat (feet) as it is. One little piece of dirt and you'd be skating back down to the base.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 2, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
Did not Honnold on-site all but the last pitch of Mirrors? And if so, is he not the only one to do so? Which could possibly mean who cares if he didn't do the last pitch which Woodward downgraded to 10d? I'd say the kid's a pretty fair slab climber......
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 2, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
Wonderful photo, BobG. Really captures the runouts and the relative blankness of the Apron.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 2, 2018 - 07:11pm PT
I soloed it right after doing it with a rope and felt quite solid. All the rules of climbing don't apply to the Apron and I felt that the fall was reasonably survivable at the time. Coulda' been glacial polish Geek Skiing at its finest!
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Mar 2, 2018 - 07:26pm PT
The 16th pitch was downrated from 5.13a to 5.11c.

Bet those Contacts were very good on smears, but were too floppy for the edges on the upper pitches of the route.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 2, 2018 - 09:51pm PT
Bruce....you are right...hard for me to tell what was where on topo....but 11.c? No problem. Just defending what is a truly clean ascent (?) from being poo pooed because he didn' t climb last pitch......
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Mar 2, 2018 - 10:19pm PT
Stop wherever you feel like it and rap. It's all good.

Think that Alex Honnold climbed the first 9 pitches through the 5.12c crux the first day. Then, went back and re-led the first 9 and continued on up to the top of the 15th the second day. Don't know any of the particulars beyond that. If you can do the Unfinished 9th, everything is feasible after that.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 3, 2018 - 06:50am PT
I always found that hard friction was uncomfortable on the feet.
What does it feel like to do pitch after pitch of continuous extreme friction?
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Mar 3, 2018 - 09:28am PT
My only HOM story is a recent one (of sorts) and comes from this last fall (2017) in the Valley.

Had just finished packing up for a project me and Clint have been playing with and I see Honnold walking by the Awahnee parking lot with some friends...so I (being the shy flower I am) say "Hey Alex" and walk over to say hi and try to pimp him a little on this or that without being too shameless a fanboi etc....

Alex asks what am I up to and I say "Oh, me and Clint have some damn project, we gotta hike North Dome gulley this morning...ugh"....

And Alex says..."CLINT??? CLINT CUMMINS????"

And I say, yea he's over there back at the truck....

Alex says oh I gotta thank him for rebolting Hall of Mirrors so Alex runs over there to say hi to Clint and thank him for his and Roger Brown's efforts rebolting the anchors and much of the route with SS hardware.

Alex and Clint are good ones both. :D
jonnywoodward

climber
Mar 3, 2018 - 11:04am PT
Steve- that is quite mad. I felt totally sketchy on both those first pitches - seriously.

Regarding soloing the rest you just need a rubber suit and when you slip you go spread-eagle and you'll stop on the next bump.
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