bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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I'm always on a beach in my mind... flying too
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nice, Klaus!
Joseph, the aid climbing is limited to pitches 3, 4, 11, and 12. Everything else goes free. But, that’s not to say that there isn’t any free climbing on the aid pitches… The upper part of pitch 3 and pitch 4 are basically rivet ladders, with a few hook moves. There are probably less than a half dozen hook moves on the entire route; there are no bat-hook holes. It’s pretty much a free route with a little bit of drilling and nailing to connect the free sections. There is also some nailing on some of the free pitches. I only led pitches 4, 11, 12, and the beginning of pitch 8. Klaus is the free climber.
Sorry Jake, the orange jug contains Gatorade with no extras. I’ve got a beer stashed somewhere in that pile of stuff, though…
Yeah, Mike. We had a lot of fun on that route.
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Klaus was trying to create his triangle of sluts up there! Wait this belongs in coiler slander fest.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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DREAMY - thanx Bryan. Are there big bolts for the free climbing? How close to Autobahn? Crux free - edges, smearing or dikes? Gettin CHARGED!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bryan, Thanks - looks like a great route. Surprised it doesn't see more traffic in cooler weather...
Klaus, who's the hottie?
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klaus
Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
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...more traffic? Uh, I don't think it gets any traffic. Has not had a 2nd ascent as far as I know. Same with Lost Again. Here is where Cataclysmic Megasheer goes. I apologize in advance for the "substandard" photo.
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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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Are those 3 dikes left or your route part of any routes? They look pretty pronounced in this photo!
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klaus
Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
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that would be Autobahn & Fast Lane. Also in the photo is Dreamscape and my 6 pitch attempt Road Rage.
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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the 3 dike triangle... I was unable to find any pics to go with klaus's goal.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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The hell with those other routes! Who's the hottie?
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klaus
Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
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Miss Klaus 2000
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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What, if anything, goes up in this neighborhood?
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klaus
Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
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This isn't Half Dome but I think there is not even a single established route here, correct me if I'm wrong. I'm currently trying to round up a couple of dykes here in SF to carry all the necessary OE to the base, while I stroll on in with my 1/4" kit.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Wow, that is a hell of a rock fall slope! Lots of big stuff. Would have been impressive to see that face delaminate. Looks like it may have happened in just two or three events.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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healyje wrote:
>What, if anything, goes up in this neighborhood?
Autobahn, Fast Lane. -- see Klaus' answer in his 11:40am post above. Just look at the topo in your trusty copy of Meyers/Reid, Reid, etc. The upper half of your green line looks like it's on Autobahn. But I could be wrong; I haven't been up there.
Thanks for sharing the nice photos, Klaus.
Compare with Chris McNamara's photo of the SW face; Autobahn and Klaus' route are on the far right margin, I believe:
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Hmmm. Looks vaguely familiar. West of Starr King? Cashner and I got 4 pitches up central line in 1990. After two horrendous 1/4 inch horror shows attempt ended on big loose flake in near darkness with much 5.11 to go. I think Chapman and Worral later established an 8 pitch 5.10 to the left. Could be mistaken though.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I once hiked up to the South Face and scoped those dikes and walked all around that face and thought: That's the future. It's one of my greatest disappointments that I never organized a group to really have at that face. If I could ever have gotten Darrel Hensil, Kevin Powell and Rick Accomazzo together (all skilled at on-the-lead, high angle slab climbing/bolting) and a big stack of quarter inch bolts, we might have been able to do some nice stuff on that face. Those dikes are fantastic to look at. A skilled team with enough time and the right prep. could possibly do a stack of routes on that wall. But it'd be a ton of work and you'd be taking some king sized whippers in the process. On really hard, bolt protected open faces, you're lucky to do two pitches a day--which involves at least a dozen bolts hand drilled on the lead.
JL
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Roger Brown
climber
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Mar 11, 2006 - 06:16pm PT
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I was up there replacing the 37 FA bolts above the arch last summer. I'm to lite to climb it and was doing it on rappel when I found a two bolt anchor fifty feet or so to the east of the Tri-clops. It had some way old webbing on it. The bolts were 5/16 so at the time I just assumed Walt and Dave placed them after hitting a dead end when they were putting up Southern Belle. This thread has re-kindled my curiousity. Anyone know anything about this anchor?
Roger
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Klaus -
Aldude's partly right - the dome's west of Starr King. Walkabout, the route Chappy and I did, starts on an easy right leaning ramp centered btw the two tall central pines in your photo, then continues up and right toward a long thin roof that leans hard to the left up where the wall lays back. 7 pitches, one at easy 11, two bolts placed. I've described it in other posts here.
It's a good one - choice rock, obvious line, stellar setting. You just gotta hike out there. We found it better to approach from Glacier Point on the Illouette Falls trail than from Mono Meadows. Many top notch new possibilities left to do.
Cataclysmic Megasheer looks excellent - I had my eye on that, scoped it well, and you guys did what I was thinking was best to access the dikes. The aid gave me pause, but I'm sure it was well worth it. Great effort. It must be crazy good up there.
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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What is that mysterious dome (not Half Dome) photographed by Klaus? As AlDude and the Warbler note, it's slightly west of Starr King. In addition to the routes they mention, I know of at least 4 other lines on it, ranging from 5.9 to 12d. They were established from 1984 through perhaps the mid '90's. At one point, I thought Galen Rowell had climbed on it as well, but in an Indian Rock conversation much later, he told me he hadn't climbed on any of the similar domes in the Illouette Creek drainage. We called that dome Dome Baez in 1984, when we established Diamonds and Rust (left side of dome as pictured; 10c chickenheads) and some 5.9 all gear line reminiscent of The Surprise on the right side. I can't remember at that point if the AlDude/Warbler lines had been done, although I remember seeing signs of their passage in later years, when we established a short 11d route and a 12d line not as far to the left.
I think I established roughly 60 pitches on the multitude of domes in this drainage, and Dome Baez is certainly not the best of the 9 domes out there. The rock on some of the other formations was very reminiscent to me of the stone on the back side of Half Dome around Autobahn or the east side of Watkins--- that delicious gold varnished stuff crossed by great dikes and spotted with chickenheads that is arguably some of the nicest quality stone in the entire park. I was always surprised that so much amazing stone so close to so many climbers was so unvisited. With the exception of the few parties doing the standard Starr King route or headed out to Mt Clark (and going right through the heart of the area), I think virtually no one visits. 60 pitches doesn't even scratch the surface of the opportunities out there. And there's even some great bouldering blocks as well. Cheers...
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