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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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OK
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mrbaksh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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[photoid=220032]
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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Bouldering above Nemo on Estes Creek Rd.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Old skool to the max.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 10:39am PT
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Thanks for Supertopo's morning reading Mountain Project
Very cool Spire in the heart of the Cathedral Spires.
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Jan 1, 2002
Description
Walk around the front of Eyetooth to enter the Chimney on the Southeast side (separating the main mass from the large outer "flake"). Climb easily up to the top of the chimney and belay on the South West Shoulder at the crack leading up and left.Follow the Obvious Crack up and left on to the South West side of the spire. There is a fixed pin in the crack up high if I remember correctly. Move up out of the crack and right onto the south face to clip a big new bolt (better than the scary old nail that used to stick out of the face). The angle eases off on the face and the climbing changes completely. The face is very small crystals which you friction and smear on adn palm a few holds (really cool). Climb up to the beefy 2 bolt anchor and belay. A double rope rappel brings you to the base of the route. Classic Needles must do with good gear, fun climbing and good exposure on one of the coolest spires in the Needles.
Protection
Standard rack, fixed gear.
Eyetooth from the top of first pitch of East Grues...
By Shawn P. Tracy
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.9
Gear Alert
Another classic route. It reminded me of the Sierra Nevada due to it's rock and alpine flavor. We did it as one LONG pitch with double ropes, but I did experience some nasty rope drag on the upper friction face. On the presumably original line, you will achieve the "shoulder" as stated in the above description (more of a ledge and the begining of the nice face), run up a great layback flake (runout above the ledge, traverse left to a fold with a pin in it (manky), continue up and left to knobs, traverse to west side where another old manky pin can be found, then above and right (south face again) to the last face passing two new bomber bolts to the anchor. You can find an RP placement between the two old pins and maybe sling a couple knobs as well. Bring one set of nuts, medium sized cams, a few RPs, and lots of slings (including several shoulder length). Avoid a loose death block about 40 feet up and next to the first layback area (if you end up starting where I did that is...).
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Jul 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 R
On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.
Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.
This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.
eric
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2009
Anyone have beta on the route most people take? We missed the first piton by climbing up the twin crack system to the left of the belay ledge, but felt harder than 5.8. We climbed directly up from below the climber here but on the rappel we saw the first piton we had missed by going the way we did. If most people clip that one, it looks like you would need to start on the huge layback flake to the right of the belay ledge at the top of the gulley. In any case, great route, no matter how you get up. The twin cracks protect reasonably well, but going that way you miss a pin, FWIW. You can do the route with one 60m rope, split into 2 pitches, first pitch ends at the top of the gulley at the belay/rappel horn. However if you get your rope stuck when you pull it on the second pitch you might wish you had 2 ropes.
By Tim McCabe
Feb 1, 2011
Not surprising that the bolts on the summit have loosed up. The rock up there is as I recall very grainy. Almost like the hole top is exfoliated (like there are micro air pockets).
Are the old pins still up top. The old rap off of 2 pins in behind a very exfoliated flake never inspired confidence. I always brought along a big sling for the summit as a backup anchor.
Then I would send everyone else down with the backup in place. I figured if the pins had just held the other guy I could expect to live also.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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More climbing, less politics, yeah!!!
@ionlyski: that last splitter is amazing. Where is that?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What is this "Climing" of which you speak? Isn't this a climbing forum?
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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No pictures to post... and that rat is another reason I don't have any.
Man I hate rats.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Stupid political threads. Kept me awake last night, I sleep better with climbing thoughts in my head...
On Mamquam Mtn., B.C. Labour Day
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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