Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 280 of total 280 in this topic |
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2011 - 11:45am PT
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Just saynKayyham Spire Wild Man TraverseTulgy Wood 10a,10a, and 9+ (hehe).
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Hilt
Social climber
Utah
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It is a sweet idea but... Campfire conversations are never just about climbing.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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No fire just the internet.
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mrbaksh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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i second that
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Hast to be one of the best 3+'s on the planet.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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There's enough "info" out there to kill any sense of mystery already.
More stories, yes.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Does this photo kill the mystery.
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Hilt
Social climber
Utah
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Climbing good!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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There you go Hilt it feels good doesn't it.If we have taken the mystery out of climbing with info on this forum just think what we have done to religion and politics.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Good try guys and gals but this is a climbing thread and thus will be short lived.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Getting to be that time of year
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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It will never happen with an attituede like that Jim.
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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couple of my friends :-)
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Goatboy Smellz: FA of "Dog Day Aftercrack" (5.7+)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Borrowed from someone that got a killer pic!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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If that bucket has in it what I think might be in it, that's not a good place to be hanging out, lid or no lid.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Where are you bound?
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Naw, he was safe, steelmnkey. That's a treats bucket.
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Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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good idea! screw political crap
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Bloody Fingers at COR last Nov 15.
Lots of climbing season left, except-----it is snowing there tonight.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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OK
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mrbaksh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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[photoid=220032]
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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Bouldering above Nemo on Estes Creek Rd.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Old skool to the max.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 10:39am PT
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Thanks for Supertopo's morning reading Mountain Project
Very cool Spire in the heart of the Cathedral Spires.
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Jan 1, 2002
Description
Walk around the front of Eyetooth to enter the Chimney on the Southeast side (separating the main mass from the large outer "flake"). Climb easily up to the top of the chimney and belay on the South West Shoulder at the crack leading up and left.Follow the Obvious Crack up and left on to the South West side of the spire. There is a fixed pin in the crack up high if I remember correctly. Move up out of the crack and right onto the south face to clip a big new bolt (better than the scary old nail that used to stick out of the face). The angle eases off on the face and the climbing changes completely. The face is very small crystals which you friction and smear on adn palm a few holds (really cool). Climb up to the beefy 2 bolt anchor and belay. A double rope rappel brings you to the base of the route. Classic Needles must do with good gear, fun climbing and good exposure on one of the coolest spires in the Needles.
Protection
Standard rack, fixed gear.
Eyetooth from the top of first pitch of East Grues...
By Shawn P. Tracy
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.9
Gear Alert
Another classic route. It reminded me of the Sierra Nevada due to it's rock and alpine flavor. We did it as one LONG pitch with double ropes, but I did experience some nasty rope drag on the upper friction face. On the presumably original line, you will achieve the "shoulder" as stated in the above description (more of a ledge and the begining of the nice face), run up a great layback flake (runout above the ledge, traverse left to a fold with a pin in it (manky), continue up and left to knobs, traverse to west side where another old manky pin can be found, then above and right (south face again) to the last face passing two new bomber bolts to the anchor. You can find an RP placement between the two old pins and maybe sling a couple knobs as well. Bring one set of nuts, medium sized cams, a few RPs, and lots of slings (including several shoulder length). Avoid a loose death block about 40 feet up and next to the first layback area (if you end up starting where I did that is...).
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Jul 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 R
On the SW (Tusk) side of Eyetooth, a nice 5.6 (?) crack leads up to the ledge, and can set a belay there. Full rack.
Anchor bolt on the right is loose. Not just the hanger but the bolt itself wobbles.
This is a scary lead, the pins (especially the first) do not inspire confidence. My partner and I agreed that if the first pin was removed it might leave room for a nice alien placement.
eric
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 2, 2009
Anyone have beta on the route most people take? We missed the first piton by climbing up the twin crack system to the left of the belay ledge, but felt harder than 5.8. We climbed directly up from below the climber here but on the rappel we saw the first piton we had missed by going the way we did. If most people clip that one, it looks like you would need to start on the huge layback flake to the right of the belay ledge at the top of the gulley. In any case, great route, no matter how you get up. The twin cracks protect reasonably well, but going that way you miss a pin, FWIW. You can do the route with one 60m rope, split into 2 pitches, first pitch ends at the top of the gulley at the belay/rappel horn. However if you get your rope stuck when you pull it on the second pitch you might wish you had 2 ropes.
By Tim McCabe
Feb 1, 2011
Not surprising that the bolts on the summit have loosed up. The rock up there is as I recall very grainy. Almost like the hole top is exfoliated (like there are micro air pockets).
Are the old pins still up top. The old rap off of 2 pins in behind a very exfoliated flake never inspired confidence. I always brought along a big sling for the summit as a backup anchor.
Then I would send everyone else down with the backup in place. I figured if the pins had just held the other guy I could expect to live also.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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More climbing, less politics, yeah!!!
@ionlyski: that last splitter is amazing. Where is that?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What is this "Climing" of which you speak? Isn't this a climbing forum?
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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No pictures to post... and that rat is another reason I don't have any.
Man I hate rats.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Stupid political threads. Kept me awake last night, I sleep better with climbing thoughts in my head...
On Mamquam Mtn., B.C. Labour Day
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dude, go eat some meds.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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photo by Mungeclimber
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nature
climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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bump!
and...
TFPU !
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mike M, did they think you were dead?
I've got a pic like that somewhere...
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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where is it? Nature
Is that at the Cirque of the Unclimables? Taking a stab, but the weather looks too nice, and no bug nets in sight.
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nature
climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
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where is it? Nature
Vampire Spires. Looks better than it is (not kidding) - break in the mid-summer weather.
Though to claify:
Hampi Boulders, India
Red Rocks
Vampire Spires
Indian Creek
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
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Rock jox supertopo is what it is If I want to see more climbing content I can want it.
Took a good budy up Devil's Tower for the first time on his 30th birthday today what did you climb.The vultures were circling because Donini is probably right that no climbing thread will last on this site.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Ice on SPH a couple years back. Such a good weekend. Maybe this weekend!?
great color on that one bvb!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Was that Plumb Line on Elephant Rock, Alexey?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Good Idea... I've been trying with my Squamish Photos and Stories thread.
Here are a couple images i posted over there.
Kyle on Center Street
Luke on Grandaddy Overhang
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 09:50am PT
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Just looking at the list of first ascentionists of routes on the rock in this picture some of them include: Jim Black, Pete Delannoy, Steve Levin, Jim Waugh, Steve Wunsch, John Bragg, the Conn's, Kevin Bein, Paul Piana, John Gill, Bob Kamps, the Powell's, Fritz Wiessner, Bill House, Lawrence Coveney, Rich Goldstone, Paul Muehl, and Barbara Devine. I know there are at least a few of you guys on here. Got any good stories.
Oh yeah Donini told me he did a FA on Bartizan but it is not in the book. I can't remember who he said he was with but they were both guides at Exum and had just left the Tower as they had gotten tooled and did not take to it too well.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 10:02am PT
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Hey Jim here is a closer view in case your vision isn't any better than your memory these days. Darrin told me you had been slipping a bit when we climbed the tower the other day(this was while he was grabbing gear and pulling on it on a 5.9 on his 30th birthday, KIDS THESE DAYS). The two pitch stuff is on the left of the picture and you can see a nice crack going over a small roof toward the top. This is the right side of Bartizan.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Big Mike, Looks like Hurtin is ripping his rotator cuff (kinda how i felt early this season, doh!)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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Kor topping out the Salathe. Very early ascent. Possibly my most Fav climbing photo ever. Says it all, really.
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Alpinist63
Mountain climber
Schleck-Country
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Hi Mike,
here's an ''after-mosquito-picture'' of our climbing trip this summer...., Ben on the rurp pitch of tribal rite.
see you !
Jacques
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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bump...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
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Wow wow wow, one of the best threads I've seen. Cheers to the OP for starting it.
Great shot of Bearded Cabbage.
Jim Brennan your photos are always good material for daydreaming.
Bonus to see the Hobbit Hole.
Nutjob I remember that day crystal clearly.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Some days you climb a lot some days you work on your rest-day-type activities.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Oct 11, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Oct 11, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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Saugy- Kyle always makes funny faces when he's pulling hard.. Best one i've ever captured tho :)
Me on Upper Echelon
Photo courtesy Py Leblanc
Local guide on Who's Your Daddy
Photo Luke Cormier
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 11, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
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I'm sick today so my mission is bumping climbing threads.
Kyle on Finger, Fist and Hand
The Chief
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 11, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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Today is 11/10/11. Isn't that cool?
I just thought I'd throw that out, and give a good thread a bump.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 11, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Oct 11, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 11, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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Luke on Kangaroo Corner
Kyle on Big Barn Door
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Oct 11, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 12, 2011 - 05:20am PT
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Too tired to make the trip report now, but just got pics uploaded and sending out a teaser:
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Oct 12, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Almost that time....
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Oct 12, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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BUMP for climbing
if this was a virtual campfire, this is the conversation i'd listen to and take part in
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Gear in East Gruesome. Eyetooth in the background.WooHoo!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 13, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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Gogarth! The Radness!
Where's East Gruesome?
What went up then came down, quickly when the thunder started. (not Gogarth)
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 14, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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bump...
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bparry
Trad climber
New Haven, CT
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Oct 14, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
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Black Velvet routes in January.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Oct 14, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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Here Here. I'm camping and crapping in the park next to ST with my bongos and my spleefs to let those dirty not-climbing-related posters know exactly, er i guess well next to nothing...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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Reilly, East Gruesome is a spire in the 4-5 Gulley in the Cathedral Spires in Custer State Park in Wyoming East. Bob Kamps said it was the toughest summit that the ledgendary Conn's made in the needles.
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Oct 14, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Oct 20, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Climbing bump.
Occupy wallstreet 1630 posts
Occupy supertopo with climbing 124 posts. It's quality not quantity right?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Where are you bound?
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Oct 20, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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They(the 'Tards) just have a higher hot air quotient.
Eff them all.
Haha! gym monkeys even!!!
Miss you a lot, Mike.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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Donini wrote: Good try guys and gals but this is a climbing thread and thus will be short lived.
I was just about to write that Donini was right when you guys posted. Lack of getting out is getting me depressed.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Oct 20, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
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Which way did that route go?
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mud
Trad climber
CO
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Oct 20, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Where are you bound?
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Oct 20, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
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Slick Rock... McCall, Idaho
There it is...I dunno why they call it slick. It has awesome friction, actually.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
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I didn't know that base jumping rigs were made of such light materials - the one the hotwife is wearing seems awful skimpy. Even the one that Dean uses for free-base is a bit bulkier.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
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Oh Hankster...
Well played!
Cheers
LS
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Oct 21, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Oct 23, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
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@ionlyski: that last splitter is amazing. Where is that?
YoungGun,
Sorry, I've been out for awhile. The zig zag crack I think you asked about is Anunaki at Indian Creek. It's a short route by IC standards but it's pretty overhung. It's on the Optimator wall.
Arne
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2011 - 05:42am PT
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Mike! don't dispair.. I am determined not to let this thread die either! Just been a little busy.. Got a couple freshies for you this time!
The Wave, Skaha
Eryily Hanging Out 11a, Great White Wall
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Thanks Big Mike, but I do not dispair over climbing not being posted much on a climbing site kinda more find humor in it. Dispair derives from not actually climbing enough. One day in three weeks, oh the horror. By the way you have been posting up a lot of great stuff lately. I gotta get to Squammish someday, but not sure they will let me in.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 29, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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Skaha
Great White
Wings of Desire
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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Mike- I feel your pain, I had quite a long drought before my Skaha trip and will be limited to plastic very soon. My increase in posting is directly related to a decrease in climbing :)
Thanks for the compliment. Your images of the black hills have inspired me to visit there too! If you ever do make it north again drop me a line I'd be happy to tie in with you.
Luke on Birds Of Prey, Squaw aka whatever the new pc name is.
Going through my photos today I found some images from my trip to the New!
Labour Day 10c, Bridge Area, New River Gorge
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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BUMP!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Days of Future Passed?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Endgame.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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It's almost that time of year in the deep south....
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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bump. occupy it.
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cms
climber
toyota, tacoma
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Nov 11, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Nov 12, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 14, 2011 - 03:45am PT
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MH2 Nice pirate! Is that cream of white mice maybe?
My buddy Kyle on Snake 5.9, The Apron, Squamish
Luke Cormier Photo
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MH2
climber
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Nov 14, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
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Yes Big Mike, Cream of White Mice. Since it was busy that was the day we discovered that Bullethead East had been cleaned up. It was a more than fair trade, with the minor drawback that we were better equipped for bolts than cracks.
A good picture of Snake, too!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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My buddy Regie on a bad ass lead of the first pitch of of the Goldstone Kamps on Spire 4 in the Cathedral Spires in the Needles of the Black Hills of South Dakota. It had some really slimey really stout 5.8 section that rarely gets lead. I got the gravey of a full pitch of 5.7 with some very fun old school offwidthing on bomber rock. This is probably one of the longest routes in the Needles that does not Traverse.Nice view on top.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Nov 17, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Gotta love the pirate shots!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 17, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
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MH2- Bullethead east is a gem indeed. Dirty Harry did lots of good work there this past spring.
Me on p3 Bullethead East
Nina Hagen Photo
Tami- You bring up a excellent point.
KM says "Scramble up through the bush on a rough trail, about 50m left of Slot Machine to the base of a rocky gully. This was the original start, deep in the challengingly wet and adventurous chasm (.9). A better alternative is to walk 20m down to the left and around the corner until it is possible to pull up a steep cedar grove."
Is this correct? Did you guys start on the right? The bolted part looks to be mostly on the new start. Are you saying you guys didn't place any bolts at all? It is possible RB did some work on CWM this spring when he was cleaning some of his projects in the area.
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Skeptimistic
Mountain climber
La Mancha
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Nov 17, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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Hmm... Now why did I give up my R&I subscription? Oh yeah, because I can find things like this on ST!!
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MH2
climber
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Nov 17, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
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Things have changed, Tami. New bolts, new stations, a missing tree, staples - most of the evidence points in one direction.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 17, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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love canada...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 17, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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whoah-- look at how clean the bulletheads look.
nice to see white folks (other than academics or lawyers) with a work ethic.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 29, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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Forgive me this re-post from my thread.
But I thought this thread deserved a bump.
Edit: Squamish Buttress 10c pitch. Me on the sharp end. Luke is also hanging from the anchors on one of the Heatwave cracks on the upper right.
Photo: Nina Hagen
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Sorry Locker. Mike Cowper is my name if you were not aware yet. :)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
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Mike, how is the climbing weather up there this time of year. We have been getting some 50 degree days up here occasionally.
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leasure
Trad climber
Reno
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Dec 14, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Bump
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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Mike, it's been pretty cold in the valley but dry and the friction is excellent I hear. I managed to get up Blackcomb mountain twice last week and do some climbing in the enjoyably inverted temps in the alpine.
The first day was only +5c to +10c at most but the second day was a stunner and temps soared on the rock in the glorius sun to almost +20 at one point. Climbing in t-shirts and base layers.
Kyle on Blister in the Sun 5.9
Unusual conditions for so late in the year, but we do typically see this cold high pressure system push up the coast at some point early in the new year so i guess it's just early this year.
It was a treat for sure.
You'll Go Blind 5.9
Climber:Kyle
For more photos from this day check out Squamish Photos and Stories
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&msg=1693781#msg1693781
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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Yeah, sounds like Vancover may have to be put on the Visit List. Tami, uhh.... where is that other thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
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Tami- Nah you gotta have a pass to get up there anyways, so as long as it isn't avy closure it's good to go. We hiked from crystal chair the first day, and the second day was pretty much fully lift accessed with glacier chair open so only a short hike up spankys was required.
Mike- Definetly worth a visit!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 16, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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Pump. (Photo+Bump=Pump)
Kyle on Gangbang, Skaha.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 16, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Climb and Punishment, Smoke Bluffs
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 16, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Angel's Crest
Photo: Luke Cormier
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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 16, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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A photo essay of one of my favorite days of ice climbing of all time. It starts out with a 2000 foot decent in to a canyon on the Clarks Fork river. You then walk a half mile down stream along ice shelfs over the river then climb the 4 pitch route up the other side. You then have to rap the route and climb out of the canyon. You can even do another pitch on the other side on the way out.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Dec 19, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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nice 'n icey!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 19, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Big Mike, that granite in your 'Climb and Punishment' photo looks absolutely flawless. God damn do I have to get up there soon...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 19, 2011 - 05:45pm PT
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Sac- Nice photo! I gotta come check out the sunshine coast this summer!
Mike- Looks like a fun ice day. Nice pics.
Angel's Crest 10b/c Squamish Chief
Luke Cormier Photo
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 19, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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Can't believe mid Dec I need to be more concerned with getting out and climbing before the ice melts than staying warm while climbing.
I'm thinking in another year or two I'll have a resident rope gun in the house.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 19, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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le bruce- The granite in these parts is of excellent quality.. The Smoke Bluffs offer many many crack opportunities. Plenty of larger objectives to be had around here as well!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 19, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
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speaking of basalt, here are some shots from an October trip to Frenchman's Coulee with my kids
Mike, where on the Clark Fork is that 4 pitch icefall? It looks great!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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I believe it is 41 miles from cody over dead indian pass. There is a spring going down hill from the highway to the bottom of the canyon then walk down stream for about 15 minutes and it is on the opposite side of the canyon. I don't think you see it until you are almost at the start of the route. I am not sure the milage is right but it is maybe 5 miles past the suspension bridge by the campground the road goes up hill and then levels out there is a large plowed pullout right by the spring.
Frenchmans looks cool.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 20, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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That ice looks fun Mike
Yes Frenchmans saved me. Spent a lot of time there while in school at UofI
Here's a shot of the Mucci Man getting a little air while doing the sport thing on Runnel Vision
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Dec 20, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Dec 20, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
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West Crack DAFF Dome:
South Crack SPD:
Sons of Yesterday, last pitch:
Central Pillar:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Devil Man!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 21, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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Gom Jabbar 13b, Chek
Climber:Josh
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 21, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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Center Street 10c, Smoke Bluffs
Climber: Kyle
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 26, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Christmas Bump!
Kangaroo Corner 11a, Little Smoke Bluffs
Climber Luke
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 27, 2011 - 11:01am PT
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Quarryman 5.8
Little Smoke Bluffs
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Whipper!!
Ok.. small one
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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woops!
cool shot
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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Thanks Munge..
Man made ice tower at Big White
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Feb 15, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Feb 15, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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Ellingwood Ledges, Crestone Needle
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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I'm always in for some more climbing photos. Heres a bunch, most have been posted here before but I figured I'd just help load up this thread too.
John Borland Hatcher Pass, AK
Dave Arnett on a midnight stroll up a 5.6 in Yosemite. We were returning just as the rangers were coming back to tow our car. We were parked in the wrong spot.
A few parties on some unknown big stone.
Dave Arnett on the Arches pendulum.
Dave Arnett Crusing After Six
Anonymous climber on a route at Swan Slabs.
Dane Ketner and Justin Loyka at Maple Canyon
Justin Loyka on more of that Maple Canyon rock.
Huck on The Owl
Gotta love that red rock.
Out of all the pictures I have taken on Ancient Art I think this one is my favorite. Dane Ketner and Huck.
Dane stemming after the North Chimney on Castleton.
Dane runs it out barefoot on the Kings Hand. This route was no fun. He had to downclimb from about 5 ft higher.
A crack in the desert. Steve O. on the climb.
How could you not like this?!
Olcay Caf in Juneau, AK
This is my mom climbing in Malta.
Todra Gorge, Morocco
Dane Ketner at Hatcher Pass, AK
Wiener Lake (AKA 88-Mile) Kyle Arzt climbing.
Marcin Ksok finishing a new route in the Arrigetch Peaks, AK
T-Crack at Gibralter, Santa Barbara - Marc Muench on the climb.
Mike Knarzer on The Windows route, Sedona, AZ
John and Tracy Borland on the same route.
Shasta Miller on The Spires, Mexico
John Borland climbing 4 routes at once at Red River Gorge.
Patrick at Verdon Gorge, France
Christopher L. in the Czech Republic
A couple climbers finishing...something...in Wales, Great Britain
Hlubocepy - within the city limits of Prague, Czech Republic
sooo....that should do it for now. Sorry for all the pics. When I occupy something, I bring a big tent.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Wales just fell down the list a bit.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Its on the mountain to the right of Mt. Snowdon.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Wales just fell down the list a bit.
That's really funny.
I'm putting together a guidebook of classic gulleys and technical scree. That looks like a candidate!
Seriously though, thanks to the poster for all those great pics.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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Gonna climb some rock this weekend.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:01am PT
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Nice pics Kelsey!
Kyle on Clandestine Affair
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hotlum
climber
Oregon
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Feb 16, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Me on Early Morning Job 5.9, Spanky's Wall
Kyle Koroll Photo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
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Mushroom 5.9
Luke Cormier Photo
Keep Occupying!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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Just because Donini said it would never last.
Kyle on Washington Bullets 10c
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Apr 25, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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bump for the crags, kick arse thread
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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Nice pics Gobi!!
Aislinn on Make it Monkey 5.10+
Mike Cowper Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Luke whips on Jangling Balls Wall 11b
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 25, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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And jangle they did is my bet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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yes sir! A couple of times in fact.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 25, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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take 2
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Sunset on University Wall
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 03:12am PT
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Kieran on Lost Horizon 10c (Squamish)
Dave on Black Widow (Skaha)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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Kyle on Thorax Complaint 10c
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Way to keep up the stoke Mike.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Following your example Mike!
Ryan on Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side 10b
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 28, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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Zombie Roof 13a
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 28, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sep 13, 2012 - 04:04am PT
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Ya buildering!
Kyle on Mercy Street 10b
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Sep 13, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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Checkout my blog.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Bump
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Prow-Props, briham. Very nice first shot. Recent?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Thanks mouse. That was from June, such a great route!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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One of the coolest routes we climbed on our trip last week at The Creek. Kinda all alone on the far left side of Cliffs of Insanity gets very little traffic cause its a whole 15min walk in the wrong direction from the 4* routes.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Thanks tork. Need to go there soon, a little different than soyo eh?
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Tork,
there's a good chance I'll be at the the Cliffs of Insanity during Thanksgiving. What are the sizes on that crack?
Especially that tasty-looking section up higher....
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robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
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More climbing, less politics!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Ya Justin, very different but both are so goooooooooooood. Gota say I miss the Creek a lot already.
Gonzo, 97% hands and big hands. Lots of #3 Camalots.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Keep up the occupation! The resistance lives on!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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And some panos from da iphone
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jan 22, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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A lot of lame threads right now.....BUMP!!!!!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jan 22, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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mhay
climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 22, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Mithral Dihedral
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 22, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
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bump
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Jan 22, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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bump for some great shots !
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 22, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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There's just something about a nice piece of rock.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Bump for big Mike who single handedly kept this thread alive for quite sometime.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jun 10, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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BUMP!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Bump..... There has been a serious lack of climbing threads lately :(
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ag.Fox
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Bump for less politics - MORE CLIMBING!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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WML I guess 20 below is good for something.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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Mike,
Where are those sweet-looking dihedrals in that 2nd photo of your first post? Tulgey Wood route...that looks amazingly fun.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 11, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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L that's on Devil's Tower. One of my first 5.9 leads. Incredibly coo! .My brother's cabin is 10 miles away. Come out this summer and we'll do a mass ascent! We can do show tunes!!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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Knew it had to be the Tower...just looked a bit funky from this angle.
Mass ascent with SHOW TUNES??? I'm all over dat! (I've always wanted to climb that puppy!)
But summer? I thought the reason they call it Devil's Tower twas cause it's hotter 'n hell in the summer. No?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 11, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Good point, May or late August/ September maybe.
However, it's on the West face, and you can beat the sun by starting early!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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L, Jay hit the nail on the head, of course he would know. That is one tough 5.9, I think they give it a +. I would add a full number grade to it though. Much tougher than the first two pitches combined which are rated 5.10. The first picture is on a really sweet pire in the needles with some really good wide on it at a much more reasonalbe grade. Sept and Oct are really good as can be November and December many years.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 11, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Thanks Mike.
I figured Jaybro was sandbaggin' me...all he really cares about is SHOW TUNES! ;-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 11, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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MH2, is it my eyes or is there a paucity of pro in that shot? Did he climb
that flare sans sustenance?
Briham and MikeM, nice shots!
You too, Cosmic, but maybe a little less butt next time, mkay? ;-)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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I still say we need to talk nature into doing a sushifest in the Black Hills. I can think of some very good locations, my back yard, Devils Tower, Poverty gultch, sylvan lake picnic area, Needles Eye Tunnel, Spearfish Canyon...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Also Mike, my brothers cabin/50 acres by Devils tower!
Aka the armbar ranch!
It just screams for sushi!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
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I'm in now just get nature signed up.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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May 10, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
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BUMP
someone put up some pics.....please....
I need a stoke while stuck here at my desk.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
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We actually pestered nature about the concept of a DeTo Sushifest last week at the IC Sushifest he seemed positive about it!!
I think the colonel(frank Sanders)'s place is where we want to be! Occupy devil's Tower Lodge!
Note the banner ad under which I am typing!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:49am PT
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Take back the taco
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BigFeet
Trad climber
Texas
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:51am PT
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bump
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:55am PT
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Time to get ST back on route.....
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BigFeet
Trad climber
Texas
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Sep 30, 2014 - 06:00am PT
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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BUMP
Roger cruising pitch 2 of Mideast Crisis clean.
Looking back at Roger on the pitch 10 anchor of Mideast Crisis
BIG exposure, high angle dangling on pitch 10 of Mideast Crisis
STEEEEPPP!!!
Yes aid climbing counts too :P
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Holden on The Vampire, Tahquitz
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Bump for captions.
You are killing me with great pics without any info. I recognize a few (like the sweet Mideast Crisis shots), but it kills me to see a nice line and no name to go look it up with.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Bump for captions.
You are killing me with great pics without any info. I recognize a few (like the sweet Mideast Crisis shots), but it kills me to see a nice line and no name to go look it up with.
Captions added ;)
and thanks!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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Haven't been on this one for a while. Great shots in the last page or two.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 19, 2015 - 10:43am PT
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captions
I think these two from Mouse's killer post are the end of p3 and view up to p4 of the Freeblast. (These two link together pretty well)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Dec 10, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
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BUMP!!!!!!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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^sweet sidewindin'^
out there in the Mancos Shale....waitin' the FFA, ha!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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ST has its ups and its downs, like any living entity.Yes, the politics and the bickering over climate, etc., all detract from the climbing content, but this is what it is like in real life, too.
What a sufferfest for some of you...
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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x15x15: what's the story behind that last pic of yours? looks a lot nuts...
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Climbing info RE: shoes and foot health and just plain avoidance of all things political!!
Be careful how tight you wear your shoes!
My left foot is a 9.5us and my right is a 7.75us. I always fit my shoes somewhere between the two and after 15yrs of that I now have a Morton's neuroma situation with my left foot. I discovered it 10 or so years ago via skiing; I thought it was just my tele boots but later that year in the summer while climbing and cycling it hit me as well. I now have insoles that help but do not totally remedy the situation. The real sucky part is as the day goes on it gets worse, hella worse. This frikkin sucks as I have always been pulled to the longer climbs, longer rides and a fun day of skiing at teh area or BC. So, now I have to stop and remove the boot/shoe and massage the area to loosen it up and almost always pop 800mg of ibu(I hate this more than anything, well almost!). It gets spendy outfitting all of my footwear with expensive insoles and getting shells punched out, etc. Anyway, be careful with shoe sizing and take care of those feet!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2017 - 09:03am PT
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Funny my left foot is at least a half size larger than my right. I was in Estes around Christmas and someone had mismatched a pair of mythos which left them with two odd sizes, but luckily enough for me they fit exactly for my and I got them at a good discount because they were mismatched. Never had the right sizes on both feet before.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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That's nice eh mike! My best luck with shoes has been mythos due to the stretch and then just tossing cycling sock in the right foot.
Enjoy them while they last!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Bonus Mike!
obligatory photo
me on the Squamish Butress.
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