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Messages 7901 - 7920 of total 8002 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Relic

Social climber
Weenie
Sep 2, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
I just read the Honnold interview Tami. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/newswire-alex-honnold-university-wall-squamish

He says theres rests and stems all over Uwall. No big deal right? Hehe. I don't remember pitch one as being very restful, more like im gonna hurl all over you belayer, lets get the fuk off this thing now! I still think its the best quality pitch in the Universe.
cintune

climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
Sep 2, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/newswire-alex-honnold-university-wall-squamish

It's like the hardman version of Astroman.

Best line ever.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 2, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Scott Cosgrove pees on the UWall solo on the FaceBook post of the Honnold interview.

Coz writes: "Seems like a solid solo compared to others he's done. Not sure about the constant spray about his soloing. The U wall was a test piece 30 years ago. Climbing it without a rope a willingness to aspect risk. No great achievement in my book. We use too keep are soloing on the down low BITD as we thought it was a poor example."

I really disagree with Coz. For starters in this day & age of social media, it's pretty much impossible to not have some kind of reportage on the solo. Indeed , 30 years ago, such a significant event would be later related in Climbing Magazine or Mountain or ...

I also don't see that Honnold is spraying. Coz doesn't accuse Honnold of spraying but, rather, the rest of us spraying about it. Well, I think that significant ascent is worthwhile sprayin' about ... if you have to call it "spray".

I don't. Although if I was Honnold's mum, I would NOT be happy with his soloing.

I don't believe it's a poor example either. It is just a guy climbing what he wants to climb. Others are talking about it because that's what we do. We talk about things. We did 30 years ago. We talked about the cutting edge climbs - solo or not.

My 2c vapid or otherwise :-)
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 2, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
In response to massive public demand, well two requests from Tami and Glenn Woodward, [ha ha, I think he meant Glenn Wayward :)] here are a couple of shots from long ago. The picture quality is poor, as cameras and film had only just been invented, but not yet perfected.

The clean-cut version. Ivy Sepulchre, Llanberris. Note the sling over flake for pro, and the guidebook in the back pocket.

Credit: hamie

The beatnik version. Harrison's Rocks.

Credit: hamie

Sorry about the continued thread drift.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 2, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
Awesome !!!! Thanks for the post Hamie !!! :-)

Let's go with Glenn Woodwood for now HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 3, 2014 - 06:31am PT
Let's go with Glenn Woodwood for now HAHAHAHAHA!!!!

Given his current project, maybe it should be Glenn Wordsmith.
MH2

climber
Sep 3, 2014 - 06:41am PT
Fun drift.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 3, 2014 - 11:01am PT
Re Alex Honnold's free solo of U Wall (and some comments upthread).

Alex seems to have remained pretty low key about his effort and in the context of the Alpinist interview and IMHO can't be accused of "spraying".

Are we guilty of sensationalizing his effort?
Maybe.

It's all a matter of perspective.

Maybe to Alex, it's not that big a deal.
By all accounts, something carefully planned, premeditated and carried out in a controlled manner.
In the greater context of his soloing trajectory, maybe not as hard or outrageous as other things he's done, Moonlight Buttress for one.

From my perspective, U Wall is one of the best routes in Squamish and The Big Kahuna around these parts.
Leading the whole thing free was a career high point and the notion of being up there without a rope then or now, nigh unfathomable and essentially, life in another dimension.

Alex's solo will long be regarded as historically significant to Squamish climbing as Croft's solo of Astroman was to Yosemite climbing.
A definitive paradigm shift.

Alex commented that he wished more people were soloing at this level to "share the psyche".

To the best of my knowledge, only three people have 3rd classed Astroman, not many more the Rostrum, both routes mere fluff compared to what Alex is doing of recent.
I suspect it'll be a long while before someone else hikes the Crucifix, the CH on Sentinel, Freeway or the Northern Lights.

Until then, (and it may be a while) Alex is in a league of his own, physically and psychologically.

Respect.

PB



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
Yes Perry. He's in a class of his own for certain!

Fun drift indeed. Thanks for egging Hamie on Glenn!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
That Harrison Rocks photo - is that a Brylcreem Joe Brown helmet?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 3, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
Yeah, it's the early "Littledab'llduya" model. Birds luv'd it. A big improvement over stuffing a sock under your toque.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 4, 2014 - 08:53am PT
Hamie, great photos! Thanks.

Honnold's ascent of U-Wall is something that I never, never would have believed to be possible. Amazing. Does anyone know if he did the Shadow?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 4, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Tricouni,

No, Alex didn't 3rd class the Shadow.
That's still almost unthinkable, even for Alex.

PB
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
Seriously.. How could you feel secure on the shadow????!!!!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 4, 2014 - 12:21pm PT

Seriously.. How could you feel secure on the shadow????!!!!

Beats me. I felt insecure there, even on aid...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
Lol Glenn! I bet!!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Sep 4, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
How secure does the Phoenix feel? I can't imagine doing that without a rope either (for that matter I couldn't do it with a rope).
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 9, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
I found an old photo of Perry
Credit: pinckbrown
pinckbrown

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 9, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
With brown hair
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
Classic pic!

Thanks Pinckbrown!

What pitch is this? I'm guessing moving to montana?
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