Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 7801 - 7820 of total 9004 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 09:01am PT



Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started

Mar 17, 2015 - 06:42am PT
That photo of the NE face of Mt Redoubt brings back some great memories. Climbed it with Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson in 1977 or so. First time I ever used crampons.

Amazing place.

More please! ;)

Sick pic Dru!!!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 17, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
Here's a pic of Jer Frimer recovering his dropped ice axe from an off-route snowpatch 50 m down the east face of Redoubt, just after you transition from the glacier to the upper couloir.

It's always better not to drop your axe while alpine climbing, and this was even before clip leashes, meaning less of an excuse. But I'm sure it's a mistake a lot of people make. If you do, it's good to have it stop within fetching distance instead of vanishing into a slot forevermore.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
Hahaha! Nice Dru! I missed this! Before Jer moved to the flatlands.

Marc Andre posted this nice little article on Facebook.

Marc-Andre Leclerc is not human like the rest of us, he is, in fact, an immortal old world vampire whose existence can be traced back at least 500 years.

http://fringesfolly.com/2015/03/23/whats-up-with-marc-andre-leclerc-an-expose-on-the-hungriest-canadian/
Rolfr

Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Mar 23, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
I have to repost this from the Squamish forum, so people appreciate what a hard ass Gordie was, and still is, now still climbing 5.11 at Skaha in his late 60's/ early 70's?

"Chic Scott's book Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering.

In the Section The Squamish Hard Core p245 about the new group of climbers at the end of the '60s.
Although this was still the era of big aid routes, it was a free climb on the Apron by Smaill and Bennet in 1970 that went a long way toward establishing their reputations. The route was the Grim Reaper, Smaill described how "Exploding crystal tips and pie crust flakes on l-o-n-g shakey lead outs characterize this royal jelly of slab freaks."

For years this test piece went unrepeated. Hugh Burton wrote, "Several parties have attempted it, but no one has yet being able to put together the phenomenally thin unprotected moves on the third pitch. There seems to be some question as to how Gordie actually accomplished this section. The crux, however, is supposedly on the fourth pitch!"
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 23, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
Any pics of Ed Spat were lost with the other thread, so here's some reposts of climbing with Ed and friends in Cheakamus Canyon:

Credit: Jim Brennan

Ed having a good time:
Credit: Jim Brennan

Credit: Jim Brennan

Dr. Strong, genetically altering a rock:

Credit: Jim Brennan

All members happy:

Credit: Jim Brennan
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
Has anyone been on the reaper?? Rumor was it has unfortunately been bolted over in places. Does anyone have a topo from the smail guide? Does it include bolt markings?

Anders offers us this:

Grim Reaper II, 5.10b
N. Bennett and G. Smaill, 1969.

Down and left of Snake's beginning is a steep forested area. From it's top, climb a pitch on flakes and slabs; a crack then leads up and right to an isolated tree above an overhang. Continue up the crack to it's end, drop down, and traverse left to a bush in a corner in the center of the face. The difficult section before the belay has precipitated several wild pendulums. A long difficult and poorly protected pitch follows, ascending directly up the slab above the bush belay to a ledge. The final lead climbs up from the right end of this ledge.

Equipment: a dozen nuts to 2" and a few pins.

A Climber's Guide to the Squamish Chief. Anders Ourum


Edit: nice post Jim. Tell us a story about Ed if you please.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Mar 23, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
He enjoyed eating !
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 23, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
Mike there were no 'topos' in Gordie's guidebook. I've spoken to Neil on the subject as he was on the FA.........but I don't have my notes in front of me.

It was definitely a team effort between the two of them. IIRC Neil took a big fall, was rattled , and Gordie led the big runout.

The Reaper had such a grim reputation that we never tried it back in the day. The "l-o-o-o-n-g shaky runouts" were too much to consider ( despite Peter actually rope soloing the fourth pitch of White Lightning )

You know I'm not sure who did the SA !!!!

The Apron had formidable climbing on it back in the day. There was a dearth of protection and yet people went for it anyway. It was a great place to "cut your teeth" as a climber; even 5.7 could be daunting when your feet were well above your pro.

I heard that bolts had been placed across the Reaper's path - making it possible to bail onto one of them. I'm sorry but I don't have much info on the thing. A terrible shame if , in fact, the original route was compromised by someone wanting to squeeze one in.

I hope to hear from younger climbers about the Grim Reaper.


OH, and Ed Spat was awesome. And yes, that man could EAT !!!!!


My fave Head Splat story involved his making beer.


When he was in grade 7.

It gets better.

His Mum related the story of his beer making at that age at his memorial. We all lost it in laffter.

Ed's beer bottles were 2l pop bottles which, under the pressure of the beer fermenting, stretched. Apparently these plastic bottles are capable of doing that.

But they stretched out to resemble large green bananas and that was terrifying to his Mum and older brother Andy.

I'm not sure what happened after that.



MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Mar 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
The Grim Reaper is still out there but finding it again would be hard. The person who put bolts near it may be the best source since he talked to Neil and Gord before undertaking his project, in an attempt to not compromise the Reaper too much.
kaiser

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 4, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
Look what I found today[photo
Credit: kaiser
id=405041]
So cool
kaiser

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 4, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
Oh and I found this too
Even more cool
Credit: kaiser
kaiser

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 4, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
So funny that I found these books today
and posted these pics one post after some Grim reaper posts!
Sure wish I would have climbed it back when I was brave
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 4, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
kaiser,

If you have the time, it would be great to see the pages of Glenn's Squamish Guide scanned and posted.

That's a book that is a rare thing and we'd love to see it see some daylight.

Thanks !
kaiser

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 4, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
You bet jim
I'll get on it soon
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 5, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
If you have the time, it would be great to see the pages of Glenn's Squamish Guide scanned and posted.

The whole thing has already been scanned and posted at
http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/A_Climber%27s_Guide_to_the_Squamish_Chief_(1967)

And there are a few reflections on how that guide came to be. I'd rather the scans weren't posted here, but feel free to link to the VOC page.

Glenn
kaiser

Trad climber
squamish
Apr 5, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
Copy that Glenn,
I'll keep it to myself, do you recall how many were in circulation?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 5, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
Thanks for the VOC link, Glenn !
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 5, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
Hi Kaiser, Jim, I think it is stated in my new Intro - 300 copies. Don't know how many survive today. I haven't seen one for sale for 15 years.

Glenn
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 5, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
This is the photo which Tim used for his sketch on the cover of Glenn's guide. It shows Tim leaving the Dance Platform, and heading for the Roman Chimneys, on the FA of the U Wall. Yos has the 'red' book, while we have the 'green' book. Rare indeed.

Tim Auger, FA U Wall.
Tim Auger, FA U Wall.
Credit: hamie

Remember that the G Wall and the U Wall both end at the top of the Roman Chimneys, not at the Dance Platform.

"If you bale at Dance,
Then you fail at Dance!"
:) :) H.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 5, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
Which is where the legend of the Mine Field came from :-)

Anybody wish to elaborate ? Or has an insufficient amount of time passed to expose this caper to public scrutiny ?

Messages 7801 - 7820 of total 9004 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews