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Messages 7641 - 7660 of total 9010 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 22, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
I was a little curious about the actual climbing up on the Sheriff's Badge. I assume it is mostly aid. How much of it is fixed and how much is clean. Do you still need a hammer and any old school metal like a piton? Heads, beaks, hooks, rurps? I'm just a retired old-school heavy-metal fart that wants to know how the kids get it done these days. How many times did you use some kind of cam?

Post up Luke or Kieran, please. You guys owe me that much.

Smoldering in Seattle.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Feb 22, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
Wayno I've been up the badge twice via aid routes, and yes everything is aid if your route goes to the top of Sasquatch Ledge. Some cool free routes also share the space but are only a few pitches long.

Our party on Cowoys hammered about 4 times I think. I didn't hammer anything and did the crux and the roof, but I certainly clipped fixed gear all over the place. There are many fixed heads on pitch two.

Also did the Sherrifs Badge route and once again, I only placed two pieces of gear on the crux pitch. Total clip up. The rest went mostly clean, maybe a dozen fixed pieces and 6 hammered.

I star at that wall everyday from my house, it's super rad!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Feb 23, 2015 - 10:02am PT
Cowboys and Indians A3+
FA Perry Beckham solo
FOD Perry Beckham, Scott Cosgrove

Kieran leading the team into the vertical world. Pitch 1
Kieran leading the team into the vertical world. Pitch 1
Credit: thekidcormier

Me at the end of the expando traverse on p3
Me at the end of the expando traverse on p3
Credit: thekidcormier

Kieran taking over the reigns on p4. <br/>
Kieran taking over the reigns on p4.

Credit: thekidcormier

Some serious dangling through the mighty roof
Some serious dangling through the mighty roof
Credit: thekidcormier

An engaging, exciting and adventurous route on an outrageously steep chunk of rock. The route for he most part follows exfoliating flakes interspersed with wild hooking sections and rivet ladders.

I would estimate 40 hook placement on the 3 pitches led, most of which bolt protected though there were some section protected by equalized fixed head(which I hooked around but equalized with a screamer) some on the hooking on p2 was protected by hand placed pitons and beaks. The last pitch involved hooking around a c1 hand crack I didn't have cams for.

On the "A1" traverse section of pitch 3 I was cam jugging between fixed cams and about 15 feet left of my last protection piece standing on one cam and sussing out another, when I added a bit of weight to my next piece a 3'x2'x6" section of the flake snapped right off hittin me in the left wrist and continuing downward.

I instantly began yelling rock at the top of my lungs. As the rock hit the slab below it exploded in to 3 big pieces 2 of which landed within a meter in either side of a fellow climber who unbeknownst to us was down below. The third chunk of this section of flake grazed this woman's beanie, which was on her helmetless head. Within millimetres of total skull obliteration.

The rest of pitch was stout with some free climbing past some hand place tomahawks, some thinness and underestimation of the difficulty.

Kieran got us through the roof and to the start of the last pitch at a steady pace given the steepness, fatigue and lack of water.

For ultimate efficiency I would have preferred to do each a block of 3 pitches but Kieran wanted the first pitch but not the second so he led p1, p4 and p5. Leaving me with p2, p3 and p6. Making for 3 leader swaps and associated friggery.

Overall a great outing with an excellent partner. Great to get back into saddle being that it was our first wall in over a year.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 23, 2015 - 10:12am PT
Sh#t yeah Luke! Nice pics and climbing all day it sounds like. Holy sh#t on the beanie graze.
RyanD

climber
Feb 23, 2015 - 10:14am PT
Nice stuff Luke but you didn't provide the info that everyone is dying to know.




Who lead the spooning?
Slabby D

Trad climber
B'ham WA
Feb 23, 2015 - 10:27am PT
I always thought climbers took cragging below other climbers in Squish a little too casually. Nice work for February!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 23, 2015 - 10:58am PT
Haha Ryan, I Laughed Quietly to Myself (LQTM) almost LOL'd.

Mike throwing the horns to the Grand
Mike throwing the horns to the Grand
Credit: this just in

Credit: this just in
Ha, the horns again and on post 7666!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 11:04am PT
Is that FFA? First Feburary Ascent. ;)

It's too bad i'm a dumbass and i didn't. Bring my good camera... I found a better spot to shoot from with no wires, so hopefully you guys do the badge route too one of these days, and i can get some sweet close-ups.

Nice work, both of youz. Very proud ascent. Got my wall stoke burning again.

Lol Justin!! I'm always doing the horns lately.. ;)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Feb 23, 2015 - 11:40am PT
Thanks for the TR, Luke !
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Feb 23, 2015 - 11:43am PT
Ditto. Same granite, different world.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 23, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
Awesome! Good job on the climb and the TR, Luke. That pretty much answers my questions. Thanks.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 23, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
Great TR. Thanks !
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 23, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
Yes, great job, and different world.

A question: my knowledge of the names of some of the features there is sadly out of date. Is Sasquatch Ledge the big treed area under the Acrophobes?

Glenn
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
Glenn- not quite. Right at the top of the badge. It's clearly visible at the top of my mid closeup.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 23, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
Does that let you walk/scramble off into the South Gully?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
Yes. The boys rapped into the gully.

BmacD sighting at Penny Lane!
new world order2

climber
Feb 23, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
^^^^Look at that blue-bird sky! I haven't seen one in months!
Know what I'm sayin'? Ahem.....;) Not here. Hi Bruce!

Thanks for posting up the trip report, guys!


brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Feb 23, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
Credit: brownie

anyone know this chickenhead?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Feb 23, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
Local Boys Do Good.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Feb 23, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
nope.
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