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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 08:57pm PT
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It sure was Tami! There are some pretty big boulders under the badge! It must have been devastation! When did the main chunk fall off? I remember reading a historical account about the whole valley shaking but i can't remember what year it was!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Relic and I went for a run up the Apron today. Our plan was to check out Kris Wild's new north Apron route, but Mh2 and his partner Sierra beat us to it. We considered waiting for them, but weren't uber stoked on climbing over Kris's fixed lines which are still in place since he's not done scrubbing yet. We decided to do Calculus instead which is always fun and got it done in good time.
Kris's route looks really fun though! I can't wait to try it! Looks it would be a fun ushba with all the lines still in!!
I took a few shots on route, but we were moving so fast my phone got all foggy and this pano at the top was the only one that came out decent.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 11, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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Really nice to see you and Relic out, Mike.
Sierra and I enjoyed the Kris Wild route but my faulty memory was partly to blame. I was pretty sure he had announced that part of the route was open, but clearly that was the upper part, not the lower. The fixed lines, the dirt, and the basic understanding that routes are better cleaned starting from the top and working down were not enough to straighten me out.
edit:
a faster party above us
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 11, 2017 - 08:03am PT
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Nice pictures ,
The double standard on this site is evident
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Thanks Andy! Awesome pics!! Sorry to out you! I kinda opened my big mouth there didn't I.. Hopefully Kris is cool with it.
Gnome, it was just a joke bud. I dunno what happened between you guys on another thread, but I think that would be the place to discuss it. We like to try and keep this thread on topic if we can. Thanks in advance for your co-operation on this matter.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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^^^^ Kanuckians dew the weerdest shite! Wuz he gonna ride that thang down?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 20, 2017 - 08:18pm PT
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It's a holiday weekend, right? And the weather forecast was excellent, right?
So, how is it that late on Saturday morning we had the entire Grand Wall area to ourselves?
Yeah, we're up in Squampton again. But, because we didn't get what you could call an early start, we almost nixed the idea of going up to the base of the Grand. And when we got to the parking lot, things were even worse. We rolled through the entire mega-parking area and found not one space. Four million people were there ahead of us.
But just as we reached the exit from the furthest lot, someone pulled out. We debated not bothering. But most of the people we'd seen looked like backside trail hikers, so we thought, "Well, we're here, so let's head up and maybe there'll be some climb without a five-party lineup."
All four million must have been hiking the backside trail, cuz when we reached the base of the wall we were alone. So we hiked over to Arrowroot, with which Mari has a vendetta. As we were roping up, four people arrived, and set up for Rutabaga. Nice folks. One of them led Rutabaga while Mari led Arrowroot (and aced it), but he cleaned his gear on rappel and they all left. So we climbed Rutabaga as well, in total peace.
The only other people we saw were a couple on Millenium Falcon. No noise at all from the Exasperator area.
So wtf? It's been a shitty spring on the Coast, and everyone from Whistler to Seattle is overloaded with climbing energy, so why did we have the most popular crag within a thousand miles almost to ourselves?
Where were you all?
No pictures from the climbing part of the day. But Mari did lead it clean, and I dragged my ancient bones up it without falling on TR. And then we went out to the spit and watched the kite boarders getting major air, and then hunted out one of the new breweries. If you haven't already tried it, check out Backcountry Brewing. Beer as good as you can get in Seattle (that is, beer better than anything you can get anywhere else in BC).
Kite-boarding shot first, then the brewery:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2017 - 09:45pm PT
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Nice shot Eric! It's way more fun to climb then walk around! Lol
Lol Reilly! You would totally do that wouldn't you!
Dave- I dunno bud! Maybe everyone is in the midst of moving like me!! Gimme a ring next time you guys are up! I visited the Backcountry brewery for my first time last night! The double IPA was a favourite to be certain!
I'm headed to the island at the moment to go check out some basalt at Crest Creek. The weather is excellent so i'm stoked to get to play some in it! Climbing has taken a backseat these days to getting my affairs in order, but i hope to rectify that shortly!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 21, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
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Just a brief note to follow up on the strange absence of climbers we reported yesterday -- today was more of the same. Or should it be less of the same?
Whatever, for the second day of a gorgeous weekend, we visited a popular area and saw almost no one.
Our plan was to climb in the morning, and then head home to Seattle (Monday isn't a holiday there. For some reason they don't care about Victoria's birthday). So, after breakfast we headed south, figuring we'd stop at the Papoose. And, like yesterday, the parking lots were fully packed. We drove around for a while and finally found a spot, but we were thinking we'd be facing crowds on all the climbs.
Nope. I don't know where the hordes were headed, but it wasn't to the Papoose. There were only two other parties on the whole crag.
Has everyone who climbed at Squamish given up and gone into mountain biking, kite boarding or real estate? What is going on?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 21, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
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Dija check the Bluffs? Apron ? Murrin ?
None of the above. Although the few times we drove past the Apron on the weekend, I did look up and only ever saw a couple of parties.
Did every Squamish regular go somewhere else for the long weekend?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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Cool story Tami! What month were you cleaning arrowroot? Feburary?
Dave, just enjoy it while it lasts buddy! The hoards are out there, but the traffic for the Chief hike, probably put people off the Grand Wall area, and the gondola is resposible for the gong show parking you experienced at the Papoose. Good news is, the climbing is excellent if you can get parking!!
Nice to see you here Jim!
Good to hear you are getting out Anders! We should all get together soon!!
My day at Crest creek was enjoyable. We are currently at the Ridge Roadhouse in Gold River, the only internet source around!!
More later.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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Interesting Tami! What's the beta on caving up there?
Crest Creek was fun. I was treated to a gorgeous sunset on the way over Saturday night.
The crags themselves were basalt formations with a few incipient cracks and a lot of moderate sport routes.
Great bandit camping was abundant near by and a dip in the lake after climbing yesterday proved very refreshing.
We are currently waiting for the ferry and I am about to settle in to Bruce Kay's new masterpiece. "Autonomy Mastery and Purpose; in the avalanche patch."
Hope everyone else had a fantastic weekend in the sun!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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Thanks for the mention of Bruce's new book, Mike. Didn't know about it previously, and bought the ebook just now after a quick search.
Am looking forward to reading it!
http://avalanchepatch.com
What a travesty that BKay is no longer visible on the Taco.... unless he's ... well, I won't say.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
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Thanks for the inspiration Jim! I long to get up there!! It looks amazing! Tell us a story from your time up there!!
Kulun_Shan You are welcome. I miss Bruce's input here as well. I told him he should return, but his interest was lacking after his ousting.
Fair enough Tami! I'm well aware of the cost of posting here. After posting photos of Mercy Street, the next weekend it had a lineup at it's base!!
Fortunately most of our routes require traffic to stay clean, so it is a necessary evil.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 23, 2017 - 12:03am PT
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No climbers likely means everyone is bouldering? Or in the gym?
Jim B, I have to disagree with you. There is no comparison between Royal Arches and the regular route on Snowpatch. Snowpatch is 19-20 pitches after an involved approach, rated 5.8, requires a series of rappels down the far side of the peak, and some snow and ice skills to get back to the hut. Royal Arches has been soloed car to car in a couple of hours, or less.
Here is Doug H. from Cranbrook, reading the summit record, while being watched closely by a pink flamingo. There were flamingos on several Bugaboo summits.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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May 24, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 24, 2017 - 10:02am PT
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My niece just got a soccer scholarship to Quest and will be starting there in the fall, maybe I'll finally make it up there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
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Snowpatch sure looks fun!!
Congratulations Niaomi! You've done us all proud!
So sorry to hear about Jesse. I still can't believe it's true! That's some crazy stuff!! It's like a real life troll!! (Fitting considering JJ's affinity for such things..)
I've got some pics of him i'll post up soon in his memory. Truly a sad state of affairs! I hope it is resolved soon!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
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Here's some eye candy for y'all from my favorite new post work solo!!
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