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Messages 7261 - 7280 of total 7827 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 29, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
I think the last train was also the first train.

Edit- free neutrino for anyone who's game, don't cheat & rap in to get it!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Dave- Being required to ski sounds rough! Lol

Jim- Thanks for that tale about the Lobster Hatten! Now if you had a picture to go with it, that would be priceless! Am i going to have to steal your slides and hire an aussie to scan them, so that we can finally see some of your images?? Lol

Drew- That quarry is crazy! Quite a few countertops there...

Kieran- Killer solo production bro! Jack of all trades indeed!

Ryan- Last Train To Hicksville! Sweet! Perry will be happy to see that all sparkly!
I wouldn't have left my biner though.. That would have been worth a lap on caboose for sure!
MH2

climber
Apr 29, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Big Mike - Your physical, mental, and whatever-else-there-is recovery truly inspires me. Thanks for getting back to this thread. After the life-changer that got you, it reassures me that there IS something special about climbing and the people who do it.

Or it could be collective insanity.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
Or it could be collective insanity.

Yup! :)

Thanks Andy. I couldn't have done it without all the support and love i received. My Doctors, Physios, Family, Friends, and all the people here on supertopo (many of whom i feel lucky to consider friends) were instrumental in my recovery.

I'm pretty darn stoked right now, to be working on a goal which i made years before my injury!!! I leave for Cali thursday morning!!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Apr 29, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
Right on Mike !

Be sure to have many widgets in the 1" range as well as the usual stuff for your adventure with Weege !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
Good to know! Thanks Jim!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
We got out today with out friends Phil and Chelsea for Sandra's birthday. I got to hang out with them a couple weeks ago too, but never got around to posting photos so here they are.

Phil and Chels were running behind that day, and i didn't really wanna wait, so i headed up to the bluffs to try and find a rope solo which would be beneficial for my jugging technique.

I wandered up to Pixie Corner with digital dexterity in mind, but after looking at it for a minute, i ran into these two austrian dudes who had just finished pixie corner.

They started asking me all kinds of questions and told me they were only here for the day and had a grand total of 4 cams on them..

I offered to climb with them since i didn't have a partner, and we sauntered off towards burgers and fries.

When we got there it was quite busy so we went down to bilbo baggins which i ran a rope up for them.

Both their names were Phil


Yes that's beer can Al soloing on the left.

Phil and Chels showed up just as the austrians had enough and rushed off to hike the chief b4 dark.

Phil leading Bilbo Baggins 5.7


Chelsea belays Phil with the chief hiding in the trees.


I got bored and decided to rope solo this little 5.6 free, in my approach shoes.

Phil Tifo photo

Yes i forgot to wear my helmet. Yes grigri's suck for free self belays.. Lol


Phil jumped on this little 5.7 number after.


After we went over to the Libya Sucks area and i showed Phil and Chelsea the new Jim.s/Peder.o
contributions.

Phil on (anyone know the names?) the left 5.7.


It's pretty barren down there since hydro did their trim.. It's gonna be a desert this summer.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 1, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
Big Mike is in the air as I write this, on an Alaska Airlines 737 from Seattle to Sacretomato. We took him in yesterday afternoon, got him partying with Steve, Mimi, & Wayno, and somehow still managed to get up at 05:00 and get him to the airport.

Norwegian's going to meet him at the other end and (this was theory put forth last night) drive directly to the Leap to grab some pitches before the sun sets. Then onward to do battle with the Nose of El Cap.

Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.

Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
May 1, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
We were watching the shenanigans on The Last Train To Hicksville during SAR HETS training a week ago. That thing looks cleaner now than when I scrubbed it for the FA!
Nice work.

As background, the route is named after an album by Dan Hicks and his Hot Licks.
Being next to Caboose and in keeping with naming routes after tunes and albums, it made sense.
I originally tried to hook and nail it without bolts to prepare for an ascent of the PO.
Bailed, came back years later, et voila.
Chuffing a fatty and listening to the album is quite a bit easier than doing the route.

A little background on Dan and the album
http://www.danhicks.net/lasttrain.htm

Here's a Dan Hicks favourite off another album.
http://youtu.be/j1syKkHq7iE
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 1, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
Hey thanks for posting Chief!


That's funny u were creeping on us while we dogged the hell outta that thing!!

So what kind of beast were you when u did that thing?? I've done a few other routes of yours at the same grade & this thing is a whole other level.

Flingus cling is a good example & feels like a warmup in comparison lol!

There is a move between the 2nd & 3rd bolt on last train that neither Josh or myself could do or even envision & another at the 2nd to last bolt that verified we were in over our heads??!

I'm sure conditions would help & that afternoon sun doesn't make this thing any easier but damn is it cryptic. Great vision, finger strength & footwork too apparently :-)

I'll be back next winter.


Oh cool backstory on the name too, classic stuff!

Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
May 1, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
Ryan,

No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe.
I vaguely recall a hard pull getting to the stepped ramp then an abundance of worthless pockmarks on the finishing bulge.
At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.
It'll be interesting to see if there's any consensus now that it's cleaned up and seeing some traffic.



RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 1, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe

Haha yeah you are probably right. Where do u come up with these anecdotes anyways??! They crack me up every time!

Looking forward to sicking some of the local granite tech masters on this one soon to see what they have to say.

Btw I'm not the one who scrubbed/rebolted it. Kieran's roommate Ty can be thanked for the scrub & whoever upgraded the bristlers remains a mystery. A worthy retro effort for sure, we need more technical classics like this that aren't full on featureless slabs.

Can anyone think of any other routes of this caliber that could use a Reno scrub??

I'm guessing LTTH has not seen a lot of ascents in the past 10-15 but was it repeated much back when u first did it Chief??


At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.


On that note I propose the grade of 11d for Flingus (Jk :-)

Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 2, 2014 - 12:58am PT
Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe.

Guffaw.
Classic.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 2, 2014 - 01:15am PT
If you've finished Scrubbing there take your wire brushes and drill over to Invertigo. Thats a good one and it isn't a Blindman Beckham 12b either.

you gotta have the sixth sense of Ray charles to figure out the crystals on that finishing slab!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 01:38am PT
Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.

Can i post cali pics on here? Lol

see Going back to Cali! Thread Dave!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 2, 2014 - 01:42am PT
Hmmm.... I dunno man. Tottering pillars of mud from the Okanagan is one thing but California?

That seems a little bottom feeder don't you think?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
May 2, 2014 - 02:53am PT
Can't you at least put some of those copper or nickle strips used to keep moss off house roofs along the top of those dripping mossfests up there?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 2, 2014 - 11:24am PT
Those strips make a mess where one isn't needed. Frequent climbing will keep popular routes clean. Those that grow over - should grow over. Killing the hell outta the tiny plants is a bad idea.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 2, 2014 - 11:25am PT
yer right Tam.. now killing giant plants, that is the shizzle!
MH2

climber
May 2, 2014 - 11:39am PT
It was a frustrating evening trying to figure out why Invertigo sounded familiar but was not in any recent guide. Finally this morning I found the '92 guide. All 3 routes at left lower Malemute that go up to a roof and out right should be good. We did at least one of them but not Invertigo.
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