Squamish Photos and Stories

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Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Feb 24, 2016 - 04:01pm PT

Quite different in nature from pulling some dirt out of a solid crack.

Mmmm... dirt out of a solid crack.... mmmmmm

K

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Feb 24, 2016 - 10:46pm PT

Oplo
You have some strong opinions. Have you done Europa/CC since it was re-vamped?

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 25, 2016 - 07:27am PT

that climb follows, not a solid wall with some loose stuff, but a fracture zone with loose stuff all the way down. You can't stabilize that with anything short of shotcrete. Trundling off the surface loose stuff just exposes more loose stuff underneath.

This makes Europa sound like the Death Zone, but it really isn't. It's not a splitter crack in a beautiful smooth wall, but we've all climbed plenty of things in the mountains that are far looser/more unstable. And not thought twice about it. Sure, if you really tried, you could probably pull something off and cut the rope, kill your belayer, and fall to your death. But you'd really have to be trying to do that.

I have no idea whether it "should" have been cleaned. That's an argument for the currently active Squamish crew, not a bunch of guys who climbed there generations ago.

But Europa is a really cool route.

Hoser

climber

Vancouver,Rome

Feb 25, 2016 - 08:27am PT

The easiest fix would simply be to make the bolts a little closer together so that they were relatively straightforward to aid (French free?). This would keep the climb within reach of adventurous 5.8 climbers, but still let the 10c climber have her fun.

And that was what was done, in fact it is much easier now than the way it was before.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 25, 2016 - 09:14am PT

I agree with Hoser.

I've done Europa perhaps a dozen times and it is surprisingly solid. A few places the flakes hold each other in and make you worry, but so far so good. The long ramp traverse right is the loosest but has enough room that the looseness can be avoided with a little attention. The upper chimney has some wiggly parts, too.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 25, 2016 - 04:56pm PT

We probably can't answer your question, Tami.

I am so far from being an aid climber that even a bolt ladder gives me serious trouble.

We need a 5'2" 5.8 leader who did the route with the bolt ladder to tell us what it is like, now. I do wonder if someone did the route expecting the bolts and then retreated. A rap line was installed partway across the traversing ramp so that partial ascents could continue during peregrine nesting closures.

domngo

climber

Canada

Feb 25, 2016 - 05:48pm PT

Sorry for the thread drift, but in light of Mr.Cosgrove's passing I was wondering if anyone had any anecdotes to share about Cosgrove & Overlin's ascent of the Grand wall "using only their hands and feet" or the about the variation itself.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 03:39pm PT

Speaking of thread drift... Where are we today?

domngo

climber

Canada

Feb 26, 2016 - 04:07pm PT

looks like the top of mañana. classy - how seepy was the start?

Here's a photo to make this drift a full-on deviation.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Feb 26, 2016 - 05:33pm PT

Oplo

^^^^^^Question^^^^^^

Yes or No?

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 26, 2016 - 09:28pm PT

No idea what climb, but it sure looks like the view from somewhere a few pitches up in the Bulletheads.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 10:07pm PT

Domngo got it. It is indeed the top of Manana crack. To answer your question sir, it was a bit moist but we did Xenolith Dance to get up there instead, and down climbed into the top of Manana from the 1st Xenolith anchor.

Here is another pano from the top.

Ben rapping Manana.

What is your photo domngo? I 'm guessing something in the dihedrals? Millennium Falcon ?

To answer Dru's question from awhile back, that is what happens when you do a pano on a moving rope... ;)

OllieClimbs

Trad climber

Squamish, BC

Feb 27, 2016 - 12:51am PT

Hey Dom is it Wonderful thing about tigger on the fluffy kitten wall?

Oli

brownie

Trad climber

squamish

Feb 27, 2016 - 01:55am PT

too alpiney for tiggers..

edit: probably not squam area at all judging by the white rock, thick black lichen, and double ropes..

to continue this drift though;

anybody know the big daddy in this pic?

bonus points for whoever names all 4 peaks on the ridgeline..

RyanD

climber

Feb 27, 2016 - 09:24am PT

Doms pic looks kinda like the black zawn.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 27, 2016 - 10:11am PT

I make out a wolverine leading Never Say Never.

brownie

Trad climber

squamish

Feb 27, 2016 - 11:12am PT

Apparently I should have been posting in the "Friday Night Posting While Your Drunk" thread because that is most deffinetely Never Say Never and the blocky roof of Hungry Wolf..