Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2012 - 12:37am PT
|
Speaking of WS. He's a young turk with a respect for ethics and style. It is good to see a younger generation that is creating a New Golden age of climbing.
Time to pass the torch Tacos, and recognize and smile at the future , besides that, the dude is funny and irreverent.
May we all take ourselves less seriously and with humour.
Tami you need to find a character for Will, perhaps something on the lines of that crazy squirrel from Ice Age.
|
|
Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
|
Ms Knight "you need to find a character for Will".
Pardon my gusto, you don't NEED to do anything.
My mouth tends to run off after a good day climbing and an evening drinking Gentleman Jack. I'll watch my word usage in future. I apologize.
|
|
Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
|
While I'm about a 100 posts late to the "Should we retrobolt the aid lines" seque I feel inclined to add my opinion being one of the handful of troglodites in Squamish who still bumbles around in etriers from time to time.
My opinion being "No, you should not". While they may recieve little traffic in this era, the walls of Squamish still offer incredible stone, amazing exposure and sustained levels of commitment for the few who do still bother. A fat bolt in the middle of an expanding flake would radically change the nature of one of the most ubiquitous features of the Grand Wall lines.
If those lines will go free let it be by the climber willing to step up and engage the rock in its current, committing state. Will Stanhope set the bar for such style on Cannabis Wall (5.13R ?) that hopefully will be emulated and respected by the leading climbers to come.
As for Ten Years After the first corner pitch (with pins) is not particularly expanding. It is the short pitch after that, that will really test ones ability to climb expando flakes (free or aid) and is extremely thin to boot. There is a very vertical, very blank section thereafter that might prevent an all free ascent regardless.
|
|
micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
|
I agree, Will's ascent of Cannabis Wall did indeed set a bar, and was highly inspirational. I was remember when his write up about it was published in 'Gripped'. When I read the terms; 5.13, slab, holdless, and runout, in the same paragraph I nearly puked in a bucket.
Anyways, sorry to bring up 'ethical, political' type issues in the thread. I sometimes feel that I should not be permitted behind a keyboard. Regardless, I got the answers I was expecting and agree with wholeheartedly, and I appreciate all the input :)
Happy climbing!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2012 - 02:47am PT
|
|
|
bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
|
Whats the preferred shoes for Squamish these days ? I have a pair of TC Pros and a pair of Anasazi Blancos. Both fitted on the comfy side. I noticed Sonnie wears the Anasazi Verdes, and young William the Blanco's which have different rubber than the Verdes ?
Marc - bravo on seeking input and best wishes for future successes done in the gold standard of style set by the likes of Hamish f, Stanhope & company ...
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
|
Marc- No need to apologize. I want this to be a place of open discussion too, makes things more interesting, as long everyone doesn't just start yelling at each other like all the other threads here..
Preferred shoes? I dunno about the hardmen but I see alot of Mythos, and Muira's around.. I got a pair of Verdes I use for harder stuff..
|
|
Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
|
Anasazi Verde for slabs, smearing and my crack shoe, my all rounder when I need help from my shoes to compensate for my skill. Absolutely my choice for unpopular hard slab routes and bouldering.
Also in my quiver is a pair of Anasazi Blancos for edging routes, didn't use them much at Squamish, but they seem to work well here on JT face climbs. Even though Will wears them, they don't make me a better climber!
Third and my favourites for Squamish steep sport, when I am climbing well, are my last pair of coveted Sportiva Barracudas. Great at Chek, Pet, Rouges, etc.
I have been accused of being the Imelda Marcos of the climbing shoe world, and own way too many shoes, sadly I have never found a pair of magical shoes to make me climb better.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
|
3 words Bruce. Rocky Mountain Altitude.
|
|
bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:58am PT
|
mtn biking is way too dangerous for me - no way hozea
good answers Rolf - see you in JT !
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 02:53am PT
|
Caught a couple hardcores on the wall today...
Which wall is it?
Luke and Fish were supposed to be on Negro Lesbian but it was looking a little bit icy.
Speaking of ice, anyone ever climb the Opal Wall smears?
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 10:20am PT
|
Fair enough Bruce; I always have to try. Have a great time in j.t. Climb illusion dweller for me.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
|
No guesses?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
|
Cannabis Wall, Doh!
Must be snowy up there today.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
|
Reports say, yes it is.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
|
Ice climbing on the Black Dyke anyone?
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Feb 29, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
|
Hmmmm... I think I see why the Upper Black Dyke always has so much loose rock.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
The natural evolution of "mixed climbing" at Squamish will be ice tools and rock shoes at the Pet Wall, in the summer. Lots of routes set already, no pesky heavy clothing or icicles to worry abut.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 01:46am PT
|
Bruce, if you haven't been to the bar in Hyder you ain't been hyderized yet. Make sure you do.. It's something to be experienced. They give you a card and everything :) Preferably on the way home from sledding.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Re: Squamish shoe
It's all about what fits your feet but my favourite(s) is:
Muira lace for cracks & if your shoes are going to be on for a while
Muira velcro for hard & steep single pitch(or hard & slabby) & bouldering, they jam good too if not too small. All rounder for sure.
Testarossa's for hard slab/Pet wall
Had a pair of anasazi's, thought they were pretty good until i noticed everyone who wears them crushes, and has stinky, deformed feet. Not a club i am looking to join, just not my thing -even if i could climb one grade harder in them i would rather the italian comfort!
Rolfr if you like barracudas check out the katana lace, not the best fit for my foot but i liked them a lot, sadly they only lasted me one day since i did dancing in the light with them in august like an idiot & they de-lammed :-(
it was worth it, probably would have sh!t myself without new shoes on that one........
never had mythos, they look comfy.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!