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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Glenn, look forward to seeing you!

Ice eh? hmm.. looks interesting...

Awhile ago, Ryan made reference to an afternoon spent at Neat and Cool, with Mr Tifo and Dcp. It was a glorious overcast day, late fall. Crisp but not too cold, we were still climbing in t-ahirts.

Ryan getting hydrated before his ascent of flying circus at my request.



Neat and Cool and the Chief


Electra and Lily loving it.


Ryan cruising the Circus while Tifo belays





There was another party on Fear of Flying and we managed to share the real estate quite cordially. It felt hard for me, but I still remembered every move and managed to crank through it.

After that Dave joined us and we ended up somewhere near Where Ancients Fear To Tread. I was looking for Gross Incompetence but i didn't have a guide, and apparently Ryan never climbs with a guide these days..(lol)


Ryan starts up Ancients








Unknown climber projecting Kangaroo Crack


Upward pano


Ryan spent awhile at the crux, but solved it clean. He also finished up the 11a Crux of Toasted Tits.


Dave belaying Tifo


Dave on WAFTT


Dave didn't finish the climb and Ryan and Tifo both had to peace out, so that left me to take it down. The crux for me was getting out of the horizontal with my hands and onto my feet. Ryan took the draw off the bolt, so I took a couple big penji's trying the move.

After the third one, I decided I needed a different approach, and climbed Geritol to get above the horizontal, and then foot traversed it all the way across. Back no worse for wear.

It was fun. I'm hoping things don't warm up too quick in the morning!

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 11, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Mmm climbing juice. Hope the recovery is going well mike. Sounds like you are climbing so not too bad ehh.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Thanks! No, not too bad.. All in all. Happy to be upright and active! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 11, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Yep, regarding being paralyzed you could say Big Mike is a has been :-)



Cool shots Mike! That was probably the hardest 5.9 I've done lol! Super fun day, it was rad to see u crush the flying circus. My how time flies eh?



Re: the ice climbers



There goes the neighborhood!!!



Here they were just yesterday, back when they were boulderers.



Credit: RyanD



Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 11, 2013 - 01:53am PT
and Ryan and Tifo both had to peace out

HAHAHAHAAHAH .


Glad I have kids so I can translate "peace out" to "leave".



GUFFAW.


GREAT PIX ABOVE.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 11, 2013 - 01:24pm PT


jeez drop those heels, man!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
I got up at 6:30am this morning. I really didn't want to, but it was supposed to get warm this morning, and we needed work on dropping our heels.. ;)

After meeting Luke and Kieran at Luke's, we wandered over to the bluffs to look for smears.

Luke getting pysched for climbing?



Ahh.. Ice climbing!


Kieran lacing em up.


Getting his kick on.


Ice topropers


More in a bit...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Is that Sunice puffy some thrift score find? It looks like something Barry Blanchard woulda worn in 1982
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
I dunno. Either that, or a hand me down from someone. It's definitely out of the 80's!!

Yesterday was pretty fun. I'm pretty bagged today. Especially my shoulders and back..

Kieran gets his reach on.



Does this thing have a name Dru?



Me with the kit on.

Luke Cormier photo

A ferncicle in the corner


Kyle came out and showed us all up. He charged up the smear.


Then he wanted to go try a new rock climb at Krack Rock while Luke climbed, so we headed over there.


Eventually the boys finished up and wandered over to us. They checked out the ice left of Krack Rock but there was quite a bit of water under it which deterred them.

I pointed out the nice formation on the left side of Cabin Boys, so Kieran soloed up there.


After hangdogging my way up the thuggy new 10c corner that Kyle put up, (Endurance just isn`t there yet, and my fingers were freezing.)

We went to go see what the boys were up to. Luke was stoked, after his lap. The start was really thin, so some mandatory dry tooling was involved to get established. "I fell off like four times trying to get on." Luke said.

Kieran got his go next.






My turn was next, and it felt really good this time. Getting established was tricky, but i managed to get on after a couple bails. By the top i felt awesome on my front points and was stepping up easily after one kick..

Luke had to run after my lap and Kyle was more interested in rock so he hit up a couple more pitches on the left side of cabin boys.

Kyle on the Lumpy Why 10b



Gotta love climbing rock and ice on the same day!
MH2

climber
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
And love Squamish Photos and Stories.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Yup - Alice on Ice, cause "Alice" is the summer rock route.
I see the latest hot rigs around Squamish were this Emmett and Finlayson M10 behind Brandywine Falls and Cordy soloed something thin and steep at the Longhouse, maybe just for pics though rather than to a top out?

M10 for your first time with ice tools, that's gotta be interesting.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
This also reminds me that a good way to evaluate someone's thin-ice technique is to check the size of the pile of ice chunks at the base of the climb when they are done ;)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Only a busted leg - thats all!

Bruce it was way more epic then that. Blake fukked himself totally in that fall. IIRC it was a small tree that broke his fall but he broke more than his leg. He escaped without severe head or spinal cord injury but to say he "only busted a leg" is disingenuous. I don't recall him getting back out much at all after that.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Big Mike at the crag in the am hours?!?!

Maybe hell froze over too ;-)

Ice climbing & rock climbing on the same cliff on the same day, that's cool.

Good stuff!


I saw Tim & Jaime the other morning & a few shots of what they were up to @ brandywine. Pretty wild stuff!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Thanks Andy. It's good to be back.

Nice to see you well armed and grinning Mike! I think that is called Alice - a great little strip of ice.

Thanks Bruce! Good word on Soloing too. I was careful to avoid that scenario.

Soo sounds fun, but i still need some gear. We were all using some borrowed gear. Top roping only for me at the moment.

Big Mike at the crag in the am hours?!?!
I know right! Getting up at 6:30 sucked! :)

Here's a few more pics, courtesy of Kieran Brownie.

Big Mike on Alice


There was lots of chunks at the base of this one Dru! ;)

Luke on the CBO smear


Big Mike getting established


Me again.


Topping out
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
... trail breaking on the approaches doesn't look too bad...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Ya Todd. Pretty mellow. It was warm too! like 4 degrees c all day.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
A cool obscurity at Soo Bluffs is Mazola Party. Bring some rock gear as well as screws.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 12, 2013 - 11:40pm PT


Its in the corner up and left, right? Does it form all ice or is it usually more of a mixed route Jim?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Wow, those two lower ones look nice!
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