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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 2, 2013 - 12:46am PT
That's awesome, good work lurker Kyle!
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 2, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Yeah, I took a rather large whip on QuickDraw down below off literally the last move before the anchor, and lost confidence in leading the Planet. We continued up anyways, and there was a party of three there at the base just taking turns leading the first pitch. We hung and shot the sh#t with them for the better part of an hour before Kyle decided that if he didn't attempt it, he'd kick himself for the rest of the day. He did really good on it too, and probably could have done better if '.12a' wasn't so intimidating. He destroyed though, with a full onsight of QuickDraw and then that go at the Planet. By the time he hit the anchors we were in full sun, so I just told him to thread the chains so we could get out of there.
Definitely boosted my confidence watching him do it, and I look forward to getting back up there.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jul 2, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
You're welcome! I wish i didn't have to deal with politics first....

I need to go say hi to Robin anyways.
You can't get away from politics, no good deed goes unpunished!

Now that I am a Penticton local, I am amazed how well community standards outweigh personal bolting styles here. I have even added bolts on some of my new projects, after well directed input from local climbers.

No one owns the stone! As much as I respect Robin and consider him a friend, he creates routes to be climbed by the community, which has a right to expect a minimum standard.

His anchors are constantly being replaced in Skaha, and I would not hesitate to replace what I felt were substandard anchors. His routes are not ground up traditional test pieces! To quote Peter Croft “ It’s sport climbing, it’s not supposed to be dangerous”.

My opinion, “Replace all the suspect anchors first, and then list routes on public forums which use staples as protection.” Beginners, especially those climbing in the heavily trafficked areas, deserve to know what they are getting into, perhaps if the staple routes turn into TR routes there may be pressure to replace them.

I also spoke with Robin and John Howe on this issue, John insists that Robin has never supplied any technical / scientific data on his staple installation. Until I see supporting data, I would not advise anyone to consider them comparable to 3/8” stainless steel expansion bolts. In the past I have supported Robin’s practices out of respect for his contribution to the community, after moving here to Skaha, I think consensus should dictate bolting practices.

There are many climbers that have worked on a political level, volunteered for rescue, and contributed as much as Robin to guarantee our continued safe use and access to Squamish, The Bluffs and Skaha. They deserve as much of a voice as the first ascensionists.

Rolf Rybak
CASBC
Regional Director BC Interior

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 2, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Bang on Rolf on all counts
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 3, 2013 - 02:44am PT


Cambodian tire's finest climbing hardware.
Cambodian tire's finest climbing hardware.
Credit: RyanD

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2013 - 02:55am PT
Something in the bulletheads?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 3, 2013 - 03:37am PT
Nope, so funny though how I thought the staples were endangered the other day & now today they were all over the place!!

I like Rolf's post.

Me n' Kieran were scared of the light after being demoralized by the sun & its energy sapping qualities the past few days. so we did a route named after this feeling called Photophobia up at the Klootch buttress.

It offered some fun steep climbing & wonderful shady conditions for a hot, sunny day.

Brownie took the first pitch, some rambly ledgy climbing led up to a steep corner with nice jamming.

Credit: RyanD

I led the second pitch & linked it with supposed crux third pitch, it started with a steep easy wide crack & led to a steeper corner system which culminates with a transfer into a steeper corner system to a nice ledge belay.

Credit: RyanD


Credit: RyanD


Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

After this Kieran took us up the fourth pitch, a fun corner which he linked with the fifth, a slab with three bolts & possibly the technically hardest moves on the route. It was nice to climb this route in 3 long pitches before rapping off.

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

We still had plenty of daylight to fear so we headed over to the pet wall which was lovely in the afternoon shade. Kieran redpointed the Pheasant & I did the same to elastic man.


Credit: RyanD

There were 2 things that happened at Murrin though that were amazing. First we saw the most sunburnt kid we had ever seen hanging out with his family by the lake, when I say sunburnt, this is a gross understatement. This was next level.

The second was the man we met who accepted the blackwater challenge. Me n a few friends have a running joke where we put an imaginary amount of $$ together every time we are at pet for whoever will make it up blackwater when it is a slimy waterfall. Obviously nobody ever accepts, i think we had the pot @ $45 one time. Well today as a joke these dudes asked what it was & I said "$10 if u send it today", to my amazement one of the dudes sez " I'll give it a burn" lol the whole wall is dry except for blackwater so we negotiate the terms he will get 3 hangs, well obviously he took a lot more than that & a few whippers too but to my amazement he got to the top. F*#king champion, he had never even been on it before!

Credit: RyanD

Credit: RyanD

After that show we headed to the grand wall boulders & got too stoned to climb but bouldered a bit anyway which was interesting then I met up with the wife & dog & headed to brohm for the first swim of the year in the final rays of sun. After that a Tbone was prepared, accompanied by a glass of cheap red someone left at my house to wrap up a most excellent day off in beautiful Squamish where I am currently being devoured by the couch.




Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 3, 2013 - 09:26am PT
One month till I'm in Squamptonia. You guys are keeping the stoke alive!
MH2

climber
Jul 3, 2013 - 10:48am PT
It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!


Ryan, Blackwater must get enough traffic to have killed vegetation on the hand and footholds. Bare rock still has reasonable friction when it's wet. But I never tested that on 5.12 or on rock where the holds might be covered in slimy chalk. Good for that guy!


Also avoiding the sun, last Sunday:

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 4, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
There has been a rockfall on the Apron, from somewhere near the end of the second pitches of Sickle and Over the Rainbow. It may have occurred on July 1st, and at least one perched block remains.

B.C. Parks has closed the area affected, including the trails leading to all climbs on the central Apron, and all climbs from Diedre to Banana Peel - Diedre, White Lightning, Sickle, Over the Rainbow, Sparrow, and Banana Peel, and the routes and variations between them. All are exposed to further rockfall, especially their lower areas. B.C. Parks is apparently assessing the hazard, and appropriate measures.

See http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4535 for more.

squamishclimbing.com
squamishclimbing.com
Credit: Crosby Johnston
Here is a photo of the perched block. It's amazing that little tree stopped it! It's unclear whether the rockfall originated there, just above (between the two overhangs on Sickle), or perhaps from the big ledge at the end of the second pitch. There was a large rockfall from this area in the 1960s.

Apparently it's OK to climb routes on the south Apron, approaching via the Slab Alley trail and the Slab Alley or Pineapple Peel start. That is, the Groove, Slab Alley, Pineapple Peel, and Banana Peel and A Troll's Sonnet, coming into the latter two from the right, and avoiding their first two+ pitches.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 5, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Thanks for the post 'n' link Anders.........


And Ryan that's a hilarious post ! :-)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 6, 2013 - 01:36am PT
Word is death block is now gone from Apron.

No idea if it squashed a Lexus on the highway or if somebody sunk some staples into it and longlined it off...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
It sure is good to see this thread on the front page, again. AND BIG MIKE ON THE ROCK!!!!

Good to be back on the rock! Now about that front page... Lol

Thanks for the post Ryan! Very nice. Looks like fun up there.

We're hanging at murrin today. See if u can figure out where..




MH2

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Pic 2 looks like the far left of Pet. Maybe pic 1 is the far far left? Nicely different perspectives and intriguing photos wherever they are from.

edit: or pic 1 could be the bolted routes left of Betazoid and Beat the Clock?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
Ding ding. Doxycycline, Kyle's first 12a? Red point. The other is not far away.

How are you doing Andy? Been getting out much? The Gunks looked fun!
markr

Trad climber
Jul 8, 2013 - 12:00am PT
The second photo looks like a book from the bible.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 8, 2013 - 12:08am PT
I just paid a visit to Leavenworth for the first time since about 1990. Its still the same.

we did a cool route up on Prussik peak, which is damn near Sierra white granite. We barely made it off alive with all the thunder cells surrounding us. The fall might be better when things are a little cooler.

home boys at Snow lake
home boys at Snow lake
Credit: Bruce Kay

Der Sportsman  - 6 pitches all 4 star
Der Sportsman - 6 pitches all 4 star
Credit: Bruce Kay


The highlight was finally getting a chance to actually climb at Index on the way back. I don't know how many million times we would drive by every Easter or Thanksgiving and the thing was always wetter than squamish. This time it was roasting and we even had to take a mid day river break in order to ensure shade for climbing. anyway it sure lived up to its reputation for best crack climbing anywhere. This would be another good Fall trip.

Breakfast of champions - morning shade
Breakfast of champions - morning shade
Credit: Bruce Kay

the strangely name Thin Fingers .   Afternoon shade.
the strangely name Thin Fingers . Afternoon shade.
Credit: Bruce Kay
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jul 8, 2013 - 12:23am PT
We had some fun up at Levette Lake. The Frasers are great hosts :

Credit: Jim Brennan
MH2

climber
Jul 8, 2013 - 12:26am PT
Well done Bruce! Thanks for putting that here rather than some non-Squamish place I might have missed it.


I've had a few adventures, Mike. Sandbagging myself on Grand Finale was memorable. I often wonder how you are doing. Hope to get a chance to meet up.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 02:03am PT
Awesome Bruce! Thanks for that. Leavenworth and index are definetly on the list at some point. Index looks rad! I gotta come visit you soon and drop your stuff off.

Andy, seems like i could use a rope gun tomorrow. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.
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