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Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Oct 11, 2013 - 02:20am PT
Too Pink to Think 11B far left overgrown crack, Too Blue to Screw , centre route with bolt 12A, furthest right is Too Brown to Frown 11A follows a couple bolts then traverses right and up.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:19am PT
Thanks Rolf I don't have a guidebook these days.


So that's 12a huh? We thought we were on the 11b lol. Second time this week I've been sandbagged. I thought where ancients fear to tread was some other 5.9 when I got on it with big mike the other day. I's like "WTF this is some full on 5.9 right here" a few times on that one. After the sandbagging today we went & tried the hangover, a totally different type of sandbag which felt harder than the first sandbag, a lot of climbing on that little hangover guy there is.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
^^^Enough climbin' on Hangover to make Richard puke on the FA :-D hahahahha


.......then again, he WUZ hungover :-D
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Oct 11, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Me too Ryan, I think its written the other way around in the guide book. I tried Toasted Tits and thought that was quite stout as well...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 12, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
Well yeah Bruce, I can tell its indian summer because I'm takin a forced rest day right now. After 4 days straight of climbing cracks, clipping bolts & wresting pebbles in Squam this week i Feel like I've been on a climbing trip. Only dif is I get to go to work every day after climbing & showers & my own bed are readily available. I'm pooped! Hopefully you guys are takin advantage of these primo conditions too. Fall is my favorite time to climb around here, so pretty & the friction is really starting to get good.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 12, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
there might be some good somethin somethin up in the alpine too what with two foot of snow and then a week of hot sunny days and freezing nights
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Oct 14, 2013 - 04:42am PT
Credit: brownie

the easy side

and a tidbit of an extensive trip into the land of the free..

The sky above me was dark and closer to my face then I was comfortable with. I rolled over in my bivy sack and buried my face in the thermorest, milking the last minutes of fuzzy sleep in the warmth of my cocoon. I stumbled upright stiff from the previous days thrashing up wild chimneys and steep cracks and lit the stove with a woosh of flame before tossing the pot atop and walking into the forest to relieve myself. The overcast skies were low and a blur of white and I wondered at their intentions as I dumped thick coffee from pot to cup to mouth while fiddling with a smoke and shivering off the early morning chill. A familiar face appeared behind a car at the opposite end of the parking lot and I trotted over to greet some old friends that had happened into this little part of the world at such an opportune time. We chatted while I absorbed my coffee and chatted about each others plans for the day and I received a parting gift of some sweet herbs before heading off to the trail head. I wandered up the switchbacks leading into the mountains with calm thoughts and took a few moments to observe the world waking up slowly to greet the quiet grey day. I floated up the path, wandering along logs over a river and crisscrossing steep boulder fields and fallen trees up towards the base of the wall. Steaming with sweat I peeled layers off and tied them high in a tree and out of reach of the goats which frequent the area before sitting back to puff a smoke and study the rock. I heard a voice above me and realized I had not risen as early as I had hoped and that a party of two were just starting the route. I stayed quiet and listened to them discuss the plan for the day as they organized themselves before discreetly alerting them to my presence and joining the belayer on his ledge as a couple dozen miniscule water droplets dribbled from the sky onto my hands, making me wince. I sat on the rock and thought hard about the possibility of just heading back to camp content with a pleasant hike but as I considered this I glanced down to the sloping grass just below my feet and met eyes with a pure white goat chewing his breakfast of alpine grass. He bowed his head to grab another bite before looking at me once more and tilting his head ever so slightly to ask me “what are you waiting for?” I looked back at the clouds once more, calculating their movements, judging their weight, and then called their bluff. I danced past the belayers stance and he wished me a good day as I continued up pleasant corners following the parties rope to join the leader. I gave him a smile as I walked past him and down climbed a few moves before continuing the traverse towards a large ledge as he built an anchor to bring up the second. The ledge was spacious and I sat down to swap my sneakers for the security of my climbing shoes before sliding my hands into the rock and pressing my feet onto the wall. Good holds lead me through a short steep section of questionable rock which I delicately poked and prodded as I moved higher to a small alcove. From here I peered around the corner of my cranny at the traversing crack leading off to the right and blew hot air into my cold hands one at a time whilst studying the terrain. I worked my way onto the face pressing my toes confidently on only the highest quality footholds as I slowly unlocked the sequence move by move until I reached a field of knobs leading to a right facing corner which I delightfully worked through until I stood before the headwall crack which split the mountain through the middle and seemed to glow with some mystical light as though I had just solved some ancient riddle unlocking the doors to some long forgotten treasure. I plunged hands deep into the stone and swore to ignore the convenient nobs peppering the rock before paddling my way upwards into the expanse of granite. As hard as it was to disrupt such fluid motion I forced myself to pause and study my position, peering past my feet to the sloping hills below I caught a glimpse of the tiny white Buddha who still grazed on the sweet grasses and then swept my gaze back to my present situation to study the knobby surface of the vertical world I was submerged in. The splitter crack shot upwards from where I was to where I could not see and I grew curious and eager as to what lay next until I could not wait any longer and shuffled my feet once more, upwards and onwards. A thin section appeared before me and I cranked finger tips into ancient piton scars and pulled my weight over a high foot to reach better holds, swimming into the sky. The crack petered out after a couple hundred feet and I danced over knobs through a small roof as the angle lessened and I became upright once more returning to the realm of man. My hands; now free of their duty, awoke to the cold and I hopped around on top of the mountain with a nasty case of the screamin barfies as I tried to take of my climbing shoes with loudly complaining fingertips. I looked around for a second at the world, now awake and puttering along with the duties a new day brings before darting down the descent gully pretending to be a young mountain goat hopping from precarious stance to precarious stance with delight. I wandered back to the base in time to wish luck to my friends whom I ran into earlier in the morning as they set off on an adventure all their own. I scampered down to the river and found a seat upon a large boulder to enjoy a smoke and observe the vast numbers of people who had appeared from the valley below to search these cliffs for whatever delights they may offer before I cast off back to camp full of wonder and questions wishing I would meet my white haired mountain friend once more.
Fish Finder

Social climber
Oct 14, 2013 - 10:43am PT


Nice writing brownie


Happy Thanksgiving!
MH2

climber
Oct 14, 2013 - 11:11am PT
Good navigating the day, brownie.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 14, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Brownie, Gregg!


Happy thanksgiving!

My belly is making wierd noises this morning.

Nice story Brownie, welcome home!

why u sleeping in a bivy sac? U get kicked outta the car?

Sounds like u solo'd outer space cuz i cant think of any other levy route that woukd be excusable to skip a day of bouldering on-Badasssssssssss!!!


Edit- happy thanksgiving to u too Mh2!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 15, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Bruce - conditions are bomber up high, plums are ripe

Credit: Oplopanax
Zero Gully

Ice lines forming up on Rideout
Ice lines forming up on Rideout
Credit: Oplopanax
Never mind this "winter is coming" BS. Winter (conditions) is here.
quelly

climber
BC
Oct 15, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
<why u sleeping in a bivy sac? U get kicked outta the car?>

...the bivy was self-inflicted, the weenie.

Hi Ryan, hi Brownie, hi Gregg (which profile are you?). I succumbed to the FB for climbers...hooked!
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 15, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
...and ditched for thai food n lukewarm hottubs.


Hi quelly! Come to sunny Squam this weekend yo!
MH2

climber
Oct 15, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Any sightings of Mr. Annapurna south face solo? Heard he was visiting. Squamish keeps coming up in the world.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 15, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
Whattup "quelly"! Post up some pics!!


Gregg posts as fishfinder.


Y'all and ur icicles are nuts, although I like lookin at the photos. Temps are perfect at the pet. No crampons are required, although they would probably help.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 12:17am PT
Quelly- What's up!!


Nice story Brownie! Sounds intense! Glad to hear you got to shred some gnar on your trip.

Nice work Dru! Getting after it early!!


Sandra and i are currently passing through Lytton, after a beautiful Skaha thanksgiving visit.

Here's a couple pics, by the fabulous Phil Tifo from our visit.

Sandra on Granola Bar 5.7


Getting High on Granola!


We also got a chance to hang with Rolf today, which was awesome!

I'll probably get to that, tomorrow.. Hopefully.., lol

Edit- can we drytool at pet?? Lol or would we be summarily shot for such nonsense?....
Fish Finder

Social climber
Oct 16, 2013 - 04:59am PT
Hey quelly,



welcome to the skirmish... umm....I mean Squamish thread

Dont be afraid to join in on some of the stupid american threads


The extended visit after the park closed was fun with you and brownie

and yeah ... like ryand said .." Post up some pics!!"


Sweet action BM and Sandra... peace ,love and granola!





Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 16, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Drytooling at Pet kinda misses the point. Too many natural holds. You need some crag like the Neurotic Climbing Wall hole ladder or Forgotten Wall where you can go chip-to-chip
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 16, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Yes Mike, summarily shot. Some would argue that any dry tooling anywhere kinda misses the point but there's probably another thread around here to talk about that kind of stuff :-)


Skaha looks nice.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Forgotten Wall where you can go chip to chip

Hahahaha... Totally! I'm just kidding of course! Skaha was beautiful. A little cold in the shade, but puffy's were made for a reason. Friction was excellent.
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