Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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Was that the route Grace Wong was working when she passed or was it son of pan?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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I don't think she was "working" a route, I'm led to believe she was doing some explorary swinging with out a redirect under an edge..
Aislinn, yula and I are gonna hit the 4 "somewhats" today!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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Nice. I see Carmen made the trip too!
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Dec 15, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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Did Nathan Kukathas repeat it? He either did that one or son of pan last year I think.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Nathan and Matt repeated Son of Pan, Paul. Nice work in the Towers too man!
GF, how's about a story on the 1st ascent of Son of Pan? Any details about who added the bolt on the crux pitch?
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Dec 15, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Grace was jugging a line on the Pangranitic wall when the rope cut on an edge. I understand her & her partner were doing exploratory work on the wall.
She was a strong climber and a lovely young woman. She worked at MEC.
I remember the gathering on Psyche Ledge; it wasn't a happy time. I remember Big Jim S being really busted up by her death - the first climbing fatality at Squish I believe.
R I P Grace.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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R I P Grace. Sorry to bring up a touchy subject. I almost deleted my comment and you know how often i do that..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 15, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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Sorry to bring up a touchy subject.
Not touchy Mike. Just kind of sad.
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gf
climber
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Dec 16, 2012 - 03:55am PT
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In the summer of 82 Daryl did a boatload of climbing including the FA of the Negro Lesbian, the first one day ascent of the dyke with Perry, the second ascent of breakfast run (where he fired the crux pitch so fast that one p croft who was watching from the road commented "oh that must be A2")
As August wound down Daryl was keen to finish a Pan Wall project he had started earlier with Peder Ourom, but who was unavail at the time. He recruited me and after repeating and fixing the first couple pitches we repaired to Judd Road for the usual refreshments and entertainment.
Daryl used to have this stunt where every time he went to get (another) beer from the fridge he'd fire a one arm pullup. Well that night he was more focused on the trickery looming the next am rather than the opportunities for circus tricks in the living room. He knew this pitch had all the elements of greatness and he wanted to make sure he put in a worthy effort, one that he could be proud of.
Dary didn't disappoint, he did a first rate job the next day using classical nailing techniques including equalized rurps, with none of the much disdained copperheads that he like other masters of their craft such as burton and sutton, viewed as a hack approach unless absolutely necessary. There was no bolt placed to the left of the crack mid pitch.
The final pitch was mine up a short ladder and then to some further trickery. I'd always thought I'd screwed up and put in an unneeded bolt at one point, but Nathan was kind enough to assure me he didn't think that was the case when they did the 2nd ascent in 2011.
I do hope that subsequent ascentionists chop what i believe is a bolt and a rivet at what was likely a bail point during a repeat attempt; it would restore a great pitch and be a suitable memorial to a good friend.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2012 - 07:33am PT
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Does dawn patrol really get rolling at 3:30am? Damn, that's early buddy! ;)
Awesome post. Thanks for that.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Dec 16, 2012 - 08:28am PT
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Thanks Greg!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 16, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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It was not an edge per se as much as the rope see sawing up and down over a large surface area when jugging. It was also a single 9 mm rope with no second back up unfortunately. So sad.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 16, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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gf
Does 3.55am represent a late night, or an early morning? Neither one registers on my radar. Thanks for a great tale. I looked up Pan Granitic and Son of Pan in McLane's 2005 comprehensive, and in Bourdon's 2012 select, but couldn't find either in either. [Sounds like the "There was a young gay from Khartoum" limerick.] Hopefully it was a bail bolt, and not a chicken bolt. Either way, chop chop!
On the subject of guidebooks, I noted that there were a few three and a half star routes in McLane, not many, but no four star routes. I assume that he is waiting for the ultimate perfect line, a challenge for some future generation. A possible project for BM, and the other young guns posting on this thread????? Perhaps all of the plums are not yet picked.
On the other hand there are lots of four star routes in Bourdon. Does anyone else think that his cover photo has been rotated through 90 degrees? In my experience most trees grow upwards, not sideways. However all that rain in Squish could result in weak roots, and a corresponding sideways tilt.....
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gf
climber
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Dec 16, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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Hi Hamie,
Best to you as solstice etc approaches.
I'm afraid I'll leave the vagaries of star systems alone and let the pitches do the talking. Discerning climbers as we all fancy ourselves to be don't need no stinking guidebook to tell us what to like....
Regarding the time stamp on my post, alas such is the life of perpetual jet lag. My bod has a hard time if it should be working to an asian or canadian clock so I tend to go to bed pretty early and then wake up damm early; sometimes I go back to sleep, other times I just putter away on a bit of work etc. Fortunately this am saw me back sawing logs until 6:15 then it was a five alarm fire to get the gear sorted before big jim came by at 7. We had a banner session with my better half joining us for her first ski this season after badly breaking her pelvis in a bike race last july! No danger of any climbing breaking out, the next few days look like a series of righteous fronts delivering primo fun.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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No danger of any climbing breaking out, the next few days look like a series of righteous fronts delivering primo fun.
The first of those looks like it's about to slam into us in a couple of hours on its way to you.
And it's great to hear that Erin's out on skis. She was on crutches when we saw her at Don's 65th not so long ago.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Dec 16, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Lots of biking still going on in Squampton; just a little more challenging with a coating of slush. Vroooooooom.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 16, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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just a little more challenging with a coating of slush.
We used to buy a box of machine screws and put a hundred or so through our tires from the inside out. Then lay a layer of duct tape over the heads to protect the tubes. Weird as hell the first time you try riding, but sure did make a difference in the wet mud, dirt, leaves, sticks, etc
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gf
climber
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Dec 16, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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We live in hope that hamish will pick his knuckles up off the ground, cast off his bike till spring and stick some planks instead of pedals under his feet...but i wouldn't hold my breath.
Edit -thanks david-e was a bit worked after the session but she skied the trees on holyburn with grace and style -something i still aspire to.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Dec 16, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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Thanks for the big story Herr Foodeater. And also to Harry for the clarification on Grace's accident. Grim business as I recall........( and I don't very well because I had 2 babies at the time that were otherwise occupying my time..... )
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Dec 16, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Nice bit of history gf, cheers. Thanks Fish Boy., it was fun. I'm back up north the first week of jan. Do you and the rest of the motley crew fancy meeting up for a drink? Luke? Mike? Relic? Psyched to get my beaks back into the chief too!
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