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Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 27, 2012 - 01:18am PT
The fist crack roof is Quest For Pain. It's right above Heartbreak Hotel.

The sloper rail one is Greg's Basement. A total sandbag...but fun. In the Wendy's World area.
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Aug 27, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
Wow, carrying a full backpack up the Squaw huh? Epic.

You mean an over-the-shoulder DSLR bag. Even worse.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
MH2- Super cool pics! Thanks!

Relic- Looks like Kieran ripped his hand open again eh? Damn..

Did someone say Squaw?
Kyle Koroll Photo

Rumor has it, Psyche Ledge, Saturday September 8, 19:00 ish?
Unsanctioned, unofficial.
No booze, no fire, no mayhem.
Possible dinosaur sightings, war stories, slander and lies.
Unofficially, there's interest in designating the old haunt as historically significant and allowing for for some renovations.
That is if course if we're interested.
What's the odds it rains?

Cool! Who's in?? Sandra and I will be attending, Tami? still coming? Jimb? Anyone else? We can always string up some tarps if it does rain..


You mean an over-the-shoulder DSLR bag. Even worse.


Mad props to MH2 and crew for carrying and putting up with the DSLR non-sense on the big multis. It's hard just bringing my small one much less mh2's honkin lense. My Canon has been staying at home far to often lately in favor of the fast and light mantra.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Annual painting expedition, yesterday. Quiet day on the trail, showers later. Got all the graffiti on the posts and rails, and some of that on the reflective markers. (Unbelievable - graffiti on markers!) Still need to clean off the graffiti on rock (three places), and maybe replace some of the markers, as many are damaged or faded, too.
Painted over graffiti at about 30 locations altogether. From the type of paint and "style" of the graffiti, 80% was from one person. As with the litter pickup, no one notices it's not there - but it ain't, at least for a while.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Anders your Paul Binkert reincarnated.Good work!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
Thanks - Paul Binkert was a close family friend, who I hopefully learned one or two things from.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 30, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
Thanks Anders! U deserve a raise for sure!


Cool photos everyone!


Haha relic are u enjoying taking all the "real" climbers to any sort of boulder problem that could be somehow interpreted as a crack climb?! Quest for pain is a fun one for that & could not have a more fitting name.
MH2

climber
Aug 30, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Would LOVE to see REEFER eaten by rats.


Yes, if Anders can accomplish this miracle we will send details to the Vatican. He is sainted already, though.


That is a really well done photo of the Squaw(Slhanay) above, Mike.


Hope to show on the 8th.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 30, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
Speaking of Mike I now notice in Anders 3rd photo that the tag on the same side of the post as the reflectors says "Mike".





Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 31, 2012 - 01:09am PT
Yo RyanD. Yes it is quite fun watching people rip their hand skin apart to a bloody pulp. I just sit back, far away. We should hook up and go pull on some pebs. I'm getting super close to that crimpy thingy we tried last time, so close.

I am down for some wholesome politically correct rated G activities at Psyche Ledge. Even though I may be already drunk or smashed on acid.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 31, 2012 - 01:31am PT
Hey sounds good Relic I'd like to see u do that thing! sadly I'm going to the sierras next week until October to do some slogging in order to climb 5.easy mountains & frolic in tepid hot springs while eating Mexican food made by actual Mexicans :-( so I don't think I'll have a chance for a good session before then. May just wrestle a few pebbles down there too!
I'll hit u up when I get back & the temps are good in the forest.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Aug 31, 2012 - 03:46am PT
Nice work MH--yet again.

It's 'whom', not 'who'. ha ha.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2012 - 04:05am PT
Nice work Anders!

I managed to get out quite a bit last weekend.. Friday night Kieran and I made a Pillar bid via Apron Strings on the heels of Luke and Nate but they were much faster than us and managed to finish the Grand Wall.

We on the other hand made it to the base of the Split Pillar as darkness was decending upon us and I decided to save it for another day, knowing I had a pretty full day tomorrow.

Saturday morning the alarm went off early, but the snooze button got hit. We still managed to get out pretty early. Sandra and I ran up Banana Peel and Boomstick and made it to the base of The Ultimate Everything for noon.

Sandra at the P2 belay on The Ultimate Everything 10b

It went pretty well, she had a little trouble with the 5.8 jam cracks pitch but that's just because she needs hone her jamming technique.

She cleaned the 10b exit pitch!


Sandra was pretty stoked to get this one under her belt and I was stoked to lead every pitch and get my redpoint.


Sunday I picked up Kyle late.. I was pretty tired from Ultimate.. We took the half ropes and headed up the badge to get on Blazing Saddles.

I led the first pitch for the first time which was pretty cool. I left all the big stuff on the ledge with Kyle and I was wishing I had brought some bigger stuff when running it out after the tree.
Kyle on P1 (10b) of Borderline 11c (10d)

Kyle led the 5.8 to the Terrace and brought me up. When I got there he was spooked. He said "We didn't bring any big gear! That looks really wide! You sure you didn't sandbag me!" ;).... "Chill dude, look at the hand crack! We have lots of mid size gear!"...

Blazing Saddles 10b

I got my redpoint on the first pitch 10a. Which left Kyle with the 10b pitch.

Kyle starting out on the 10b pitch.


Standing on the spooky flake to place.


Getting into the meat of it.



Prepping to rap A Fine Line

Still gotta go back for the red point on the stellar 10b pitch!
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 31, 2012 - 10:07am PT
You are going to Bishop? You basterd! I miss the margarita's, salsa bars, and most of all the hot springs.


Oh and the pebbles ain't to bad down there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
When are you going south ryan?

It was an amazing day today in squamish. Me and kyle got out and did peasant's for our first time and got yelled at by nathan and relic on millenium falcon but we couldn't see them in the shade. Hope lots of you got out too!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 1, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
Yep gonna take off on Thursday, pretty psyched. Not bishop though, too hot there still. Think high country.


Did manage to do a bunch of new pitches in the bluffs today that have been on the list for too long including supervalue, gords block & even a few cool roof cracks up at this little respiration rock place that some hosers did a great job of cleaning up. Wanted to do SDR but didn't know which one it was?? Where's that topo at Luke!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 1, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
Maybe see you guys on Sunday - I took some 13 year olds climbing on Monday, went hiking (graffiti removing) on Wednesday, and hiking again Friday. So today domestic, Sunday climb, Monday pick blueberries.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 2, 2012 - 02:23am PT
Millennium Falcon is a good route. That was my first time on it and it was a blast.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 2, 2012 - 11:14am PT
And where might a Mighty Hiker be located climbing? Apron? Pet Wall? North Gully? Some of us will be around I'm sure to exchange pleasantries. I'm heading to the Norh Wall boulders but will be poking my head out of there to creep on Nathan and his partner who were planning on doing Freeway.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Me and Ben went and did Vector for my first time on thursday afternoon. He graciously let me lead Vector, and the beautiful 10c alternate pitch above it. I onsighted both which I was pretty stoked about.

Ben on Vector 5.8 from the Whirling Dervish/Evergreen State anchor.

I also forgot to mention he joined us on Peasants Route yesterday and took a bunch of nice photos while on ushba. Ill try and get those off him soon but for now,

Kyle on the last pitch (10b) of Peasants Route 5.10c

More later, climbing now.
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