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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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BM and Ryand. No "special off-width gear" needed on the pinnacle. Our biggest piece was a 3/4 inch standard angle. Have fun.
I only met Guy once, in the Nelson climbing gym. He was very impressive, and already a legend.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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True Mike, it has.
If you need a vg9, let me know, I'll help you out, got a tube too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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Hamie- We didn't have the intensive buildering crash course you guys had! Chimney offwidth rockstars only needed pins ;) I know.. YPLS is an old school route right? The leader should not fall and all that? Well, that move getting into they chimney is hard and none of us made it clean so if that bolt were not there Luke would have pulled a bunch of crappy flakes out of the void before Factor 2'ing on the belay. So I would love a vg9 to stick up in there to avoid that unpleasant eventuality.
Fishboy- Sounds good! Shoot me a text with your schedule next week!
Tricouni- Can you post that James Dean lookin photo of Hamie?
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MH2
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 08:48am PT
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Guy's memory lives. I remember him when I see a lost shoe on the shoulder of the road or when I open up the lost-and-found box at the rec centre and think, "Guy would have loved this."
Even knowing his frugality, one of the mysteries about Guy, for me, is how he managed to save so much money in the year or so he worked after school in the interior (as a hydrologist?) I've always pictured him living in someone's basement so crappy that they paid him to stay there. He phoned me for no obvious reason one night and told me that 'the wheel of life was turning slow.' I think that was his last conventional job, perhaps the first, too.
Not hard to sum up Guy: he kayaked from Vancouver up to Bute Inlet, hiked in to climb Waddington, and returned the way he came. That's the legend I heard.
He and several others skied from Vancouver to Alaska or thereabouts, a trip remarkable for many reasons.
He borrowed his sister's car and took us down to Washington Pass. He scared me by knocking a stack of loose rock down a gully ahead and out of my sight, and by climbing over a fence at a lookout and walking right to the edge of the cliff beyond. His responses to my timidity: "What? Do you not like loose rock?", and, "If this is my day to die, then it is."
There are good Guy Edwards stories on cascadeclimbers.com, I think.
I like the way he corrected some of my misconceptions. You could rely on Guy. He knew how to make things happen to make the most of time.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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Haha more very cool stories.
Hamie, thanks for the gear beta- thats good to know. Just so happens I generally only climb with 3/4 angles, only diff is unlike u guys I don't cheat and drag a hammer around. Just spit on em' & smash em in with my helmut instead:-) that said if i find myself up there i will gladly stuff one in bks bolt hanger if it happens to get in the way.
Ps I don't own an angle, hammer, or helmut but would be fun to get up there & scrape the ankles so yea Big Mike maybe we should head up there & check it out, I can go Monday but am pretty busy the rest of the week. Shoot me an email. Gotta be dry in that beast by now.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Mike Buda went on this spring ski trip with Guy and Ann-Marie to Sphinx Hut back in the day. Some funny stories came out of that trip. I mean Mike was a dirtbag but he was pretty shocked by some of the stuff that went on. Guy had been dating A.M. for a few months at this point and there was a cross-pollination of sketchy techniques for living fast and cheap going on.
One of them (can't remember which) was making a communal dinner and was cutting carrots up without a knife or cutting board by taking bites of the carrot and then spitting the bit-up carrots into the pot.
Mike was rolling his eyes and gagging, and was told "It's OK, we're going to boil it so it'll be sterile."
Mike has a photo from that same ski trip of the pair of them bent over and mooning him. I'm pretty sure that made it into a VOC journal. Mike's comment was "You have to carefully look for the testicles to see which is which."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Should this seem as posthumous slagging, I should say that mostly I don't have any awesome stories of climbing with Guy because he was such a better climber than I that he would get bored if we tried to climb together.
One time Guy, Chad and I went to the Bluffs in January to do some cragging. Chad and I started out the day at Easter Island. I was going to lead it to warm up. In the time I had put my rack and shoes on, Guy soloed up Easter Island, down Out to Lunge, and wandered off out of view. We saw him one or two more times that day then met him back at the car. I think Chad and I climbed about seven pitches on that short winter day. In the car back Guy said he didn't know how many he had climbed, but I am pretty sure it was over forty.
I also remember Guy chiding me one day at Smith Rocks. I was pretty hung over after a party and I'd climbed about two routes the whole day. Guy told me you had to climb at least 5 pitches each day on a road trip to make it worthwhile. I sacked it up the next day and got in eight or nine pitches, making a two-day total of ten, or five per day. When I told Guy this he said "Oh. I think five's too little now. I've upped it to twelve per day!"
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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So what's a vg9? Serious question. Sounds like a veggie burger at a fast food place.
EDIT: Prolly means "Only 9 calories".
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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#9 Valley Giant cam.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Meh, just sack up son and get your chimney on. Screw the hardware trickery.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 27, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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Hamie, the poster above did the FA Silver, Chuck Pratt style.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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you leadin Relic? Get that chickenwing rockin again ;)
Original send style was runout as all f*#k.
Its quite a ways to get to the chockstone from the belay, and a few good moves too. Pulling up into the thing isn't a joke either but at least you can sling the chockstone. Of course Hamie didn't do that either so does that mean it's off limits?
so basically factor 2 potential until you get the chockstone slung. I'll happily forgoe the vg9 if someone else wants to lead it, but I doubt that bolt will get skipped without one..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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The gear off the belay is good, don't know what your talkin about mike...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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Luke- you had confidence in those hollow flakes?
Silver- you are right of course. Problem is, bruce kay put alot of effort into cleaning it, and stuff that doesn't get climbed around here returns to its heavily vegatative state very quickly.
Must every climb be attempted only the way the fa did it? Can thier efforts not be appreciated by lesser mortals? A large cam does no damage to the rock and is a solution to the evil bolt. I will not chop without a clean ascent of the route.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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These guys were awesome silver! They were soloing chimneys everywhere all over the local university and drain pipes. Anything they could climb, no wonder hamie walked the thing in his mountain boots like it was no big deal!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Bruce- Ryand wants to go too heck maybe we can get a fourth. How is your monday? Im supposed to be working but would ditch for this.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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I was tempted to volunteer as a 4th, but then after looking back on Luke's blog I sorta remember hating my life on earth while inside that crack.
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.ca/p/founding-of-squamish-totally-uber.html
The most memorable part was the guttural screams bellowing from Big Mike. I think they evacuated all the neighboring schools when those f bombs came flying out.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Monday? I'm in if I get to lead it :)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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At any rate, If there's a case for a bolted offwidth, Polaris is it I'd say.
Polaris is probably out of my reach now, so can't comment on that, but nobody's whined about the bolts we put in on the OW section on Borderline.
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