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Messages 2381 - 2400 of total 8294 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
LeeBow

Trad climber
Victoria BC
Jun 23, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
Three cheers for BIG ED...

He took me to Squish for my first time. We immediately set out for Slab Alley. The highest off the ground I had ever been was about 70ft. Multi-pitch was pretty intimidating for a chicken like me so as we hiked in I asked "What happens if I get up there and start to freak out and untie or something like that?"

Ed stopped in mid trail "Why? Is this something you're likely to do?"

When we got to the second pitch it was my turn to lead an easy horizontal walk out crack, complete with a couple of bolts and a mighty rating of 5.5

I was scared spitless.

"Can I take a couple of cams to back up those bolts? They look pretty old."
"Yes of course. But really it's pretty easy. If you fall off this you deserve to die"

Good times.

P.S. We did Crystal Burst that trip...the only 5.10 Ed was willing to lead...at every bolt he would clip in then cry out "Eeek, I'm scared."
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jun 24, 2012 - 03:16am PT
Luke and I went went for a ride today, ditching Nathan at the Bluffs with a haul bag full of aid climbing thingies. He was excited to do his first solo aid climb, as the rocks were still kinda soaked from all the liquid sunshine we been swimming in lately. After our ride we biked up the smoke bluff trail to Zombie Roof to go heckle the aid climber.

The haul bag of aid thingies contained zero helmuts. Oh Well.
The haul bag of aid thingies contained zero helmuts. Oh Well.
Credit: Relic

Mountain bikers are dope, see look at Luke.
Mountain bikers are dope, see look at Luke.
Credit: Relic

Standin on sum alien
Standin on sum alien
Credit: Relic

OMG it's bust a free move time
OMG it's bust a free move time
Credit: Relic

Nathan all stoked while we fell asleep droolin on the talus.
Nathan all stoked while we fell asleep droolin on the talus.
Credit: Relic
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jun 24, 2012 - 10:09am PT
Ah forgot mah hammah......
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 24, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Hehehe nice "pose" Luke! That photo is funny.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 24, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Possibly the first recorded ascent of Zombie Roof was by Daryl, IIRC in 1978. He aided across the roof, fixing a nut every metre or so, to enable subsequent free ascents.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jun 24, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
I found that aside from a wide cam, gear after pulling the lip was fairly thin..... at one point I was a little worried. To do that part after the lip on nuts would be hardcore.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 24, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
TheSoloClimbers first aid solo. Nicely done.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jun 25, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Nice work Nathan.

Zombie looks a lot like Bishop's Balcony.
Bishop's Balcony, Yos.
Bishop's Balcony, Yos.
Credit: hamie
While there appears to be a good crack, it was actually a closed seam, with a few shallow pockets. This involved stacking two or three cut-off Cassins and short Leepers for each placement--an uncomfortable and tedious business when hanging from a single strand of climbing rope around the waist. Ouch! A harness would have been nice. As you can see our rock-shoes [Zillertals or Kroenhoffers], which also doubled as approach shoes, were large enough to accomodate a pair of warm wool socks.

I think I read recently that these pockets have now been whacked out enough to take small cams. Not sure if that would feel more secure or not.....

Note to Relic: No 'helmuts' back then, only the occasional Helmut at the ski hill.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jun 25, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Hamish, on such a lovely day to be in front of a warm fire, sipping hot chocolate at the Ahwannee, WHAT THEE HELL ARE YA DOIN PUNDIN PEETONS WHERE HELL FROZE OVER?






You look like yer gonna die, but didn't.





Tenacity...






Oh wait... I thought that was all snow and ice and crap. It's just an old black and white photo. Haha, oops.
gf

climber
Jun 25, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
Hamie -the James Ramesy Ullman of ST!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 25, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Here's another "aiding the roof" shot from the Jurassic Era.

Hamie, you shouldn't complain about wearing socks in your Kroenhoffers. Check out the sock/shoe combo here.

gf

climber
Jun 25, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
thats a lot of slings!
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Jun 25, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Friendly tree belay on Tantalus?
MH2

climber
Jun 25, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Wow! You are a long way from where you were.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 25, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
Wow! You are a long way from where you were.

I am. And I think you are, too.

But that was a fun day. Here's a (kind of dark) picture of Don following the previous pitch, just below the tree. I have no idea why he had to stretch to get that pin out, because he's a lot taller than I am.



I cleaned the last pitch by headlamp. Don had forgotten to bring a headlamp but was unalterably opposed to my totally sensible idea of pulling a bivi. Pretty much a moonless night, so I'd walk a couple of steps then turn and shine my headlamp for him. Repeat over and over again about two million times. All the way down. It was kind of exciting since neither of us had been on top of Tantalus before and had only a vague idea of which way to go to avoid tumbling over hidden cliffs. And there wasn't much of a trail back then anyway.

Edit: About the shoes. I somehow got to the base without my climbing shoes, so did the climb in Adidas running shoes.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 25, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Very cool photos (& moustache) Ghost & Hamie. Always wanted to do the entire T wall. Did the bottom half once & felt like pukin after the ow. Top looks brilliant. Who can chime in on the rumor that PC freed the roof pitch shown in that photo?? Guidebooks seem slightly cryptic about confirming it??
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 25, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
I was the fearless belayer when Peter drilled the bolt variation. It was a perfect high summer day with that great warm breeze you know is up on the walls when you're dying of heat down on the ground.

Anyway, I was lounged out on the broad cedar under the roof when my name got called.

"Were you asleep"?

Uh, why?

"I called your name 3 times" !

A nice afternoon, the free climbing came later.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jun 25, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
Relic: No hot choccies at the Ahwahnee in our budgets. $1.00 a day, including 35 cents for smokes. The snow and ice didn't come til next month.
Here's a pic of Frank Sacherer, Gary Colliver, Penny Carr [FA Moby Dick] and a waitress from the coffee shop, hiking to the base of the lower falls.
New Year's Day, Yos.
New Year's Day, Yos.
Credit: hamie

EDIT: I just remembered that Frank and Gary made the FA of Bishop's Balcony, photo on previous page. Not really Frank's kind of climb!
gf

climber
Jun 25, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
Ghost,

So classic. You in the "all i do is dream about sex" shoes and Don demonstrating yet again the maxim from one of the great wall masters (robbins) to a solid alpine climber (petty) on some stack climb in the UK-petty recounted in One Man's' Mountains when he pulled onto the top, Robbins inspected his paws and announced "In the states they say you can tell a good aid man by his hands". "Lots of scars?" enquired Petty hopefully, "No Scars" was the reply as Robbins gently shook his head.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 25, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
I thought you could tell a good aid man by his shirt:

Credit: Jim Brennan
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