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Messages 1461 - 1480 of total 8294 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 17, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
I was going to post some stupid sh#t about the Smoke Bluffs, but when I saw the Public Image photo I decided to just turn around and crawl out through the space under the door.

Kon and I wandered out onto Astro Ledge one day to see what all the North Wall fuss was about. Pretty much peed my pants in fear looking up at those climbs, and scurried back home.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
That Public image shot is rad! Heard it has been recleaned in the past year or so as well as the anchors replaced.


Funny story re: Beers are not enough Bruce, nothing so fun as smearing mud in the rain. Pretty cool that was the first line on the wall, looking forward to climbing it in its new state.


Hamish, is it true that all those Pet wall classics were rap bolted? I have always wondered about the history of that cliff as it is probably my favorite single pitch crag around & always assumed that based on the distance between bolts on many of the sport climbs that they were done ground up. Must have been some serious work to develop that place, anyone have any "before" photos of pet wall???

Thanks for the tales & pics everyone!

Ps I used to mountain bike for years, it was fun as hell but definitely not a dirtbag sport! Bikes are money pits! One summer about 7 or 8 yrs ago while my rear shock was away on warranty I was lucky enough to get into climbing, long story short I did not get my shock back for almost 3 months at which point The bike park was closed & i realized that I hadn't spent a cent on broken climbing gear, sold my bike & that was it. Cant say i miss it too much, however I must confess that with the golden age of Squamish trail building happening right now it would be fun to have a x-country bike to work the cardio & adrenaline on rainy days, can't see it ever replacing climbing though. Climbing is just so......hard. 29" rims sound fun....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
That's funny Ryand. I was a mountain biker at first too. My girlfriend at the time wanted me to go climbing with her, and took me in sneakers which sucked.
Then after realizing a hard tail was not as much fun in the park as well as breaking tons of expensive parts i gave into the darkside also and never looked back. I've got snowboarding and sledding to get my speed fix on.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Public Image - full disclosure :

Randy Atkinson and myself rap bolted the upper chimney stations and the overhanging off width pitch protection by hand drilling after taking all necessary safety measures at Indica Point. It was the wildest first descent I have ever done. Climbed the North North Arete then 3 late afternoon raps from Indica Point down to land on Astro ledge in the dark with no headlamps. My drill was a home made unit my grandfather created on the lathe in his garage for me. It used two set screws to hold a modified metal drilling bit in place. I still have the manky thing. Then they did the first ascent without me. I was fine with not having to go back and climb it as I knew first hand how totally terrifying and heinously exposed the overhanging off width pitch was.

Kill me now for being a rap bolter...
MH2

climber
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
That Public Image picture is scary. No swami or knee pads for that guy. His right arm seems to be fully extended inside the crack but I can't quite see what its doing.

Beers Are Not Enough is a gem. Of the dozens of times I'd been to Pet Wall it never crossed my mind but last year I actually saw it, as if for the first time, and there it was in the guidebook, too!

The start was hard.

hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
Rule #1-Never assume anything.Don't ask me how those routes were established; I wasn't in on any of them. They are World Class pitches in my opinion and I had some great experiences leading many of them.

Rule #2, unless you're a trustfunder, stay away from the bikepark. Who needs all those crowds anyway? World class stuff right here in Squampton, B.C.. And Goldbridge, Pemberton, Whistler(non-hill), North-Shore,Rossland, Nelson, and probably any other town in B.C. with a forest out the back. Best part about that sport.... you don't need the one big rock. Any old chunk of B.C. will do. Just add volunteer labour.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
How many times did I belay you on the ultra run out No Name road Hamish?

It was one of your favourites.
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 17, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Mucho. I'd actually lived on No Name Rd. and I think the Chief established one of the best face pitches in Squamish when he put that route together. Five Star.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:19am PT
Thumbs up as well for Cruel Shoes. Perry has made great contributions. His ability to see what's obvious and fun through what looks at first like munge is somethin' else.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:27am PT
I agree, one of the best face climbs out there no name rd is, although I never had the chance to do it when it was a RP battle. A bit of everything on that one, long, perfect rock, beautiful top out- so classic!

Hamish, I would be so humbled if you could provide me a ticklist of 5 squamish climbs to do this summer that you would consider must-dos for the many aspiring hard man on this thread who had the misfortune of being born & brought into climbing during a time which being a pussy was the standard & accepted ethic- aka the supertoprope era. Grade & style irrelevant, just the 5 that you remember from BITD that you think are 5 stars. Yes, let the sandbagging begin. Much thanks in advance. Same goes for any of you Squamish OG's that have a top 5 that you think could teach the new guard a thing or two and would help us all harden up a bit!

Edit: Re: rule #1- I forgot that the only fair place to make assumptions around here is on the gondola thread! Thanks for keeping me in check. Assume = (make an)ASS (out of) U (and) ME. Due to mine & the many other assumptions happening there i need a break from that thread! This place is way more fun! Re: Rule #2, I did all kinds of mtn biking, seeing as I lived in Whis @ the time, the bike park was the easiest & most available drug for most days, not too busy back then either. If I had a trust fund I would still be there with 29" rims & 12" of travel on the front & back!
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Squamish Old Guys. I love it. Boy it sure happened fast. One minute you're living in a cave at the base of the Chief, still 6 years till you get to go to the bar with ALL the other climbers. Next minute you're cranking the woodstove up to 90 degrees and reading Squamish Old Guy on your laptop, wondering if you have enough stuff to make your kid's lunch in the morning. Crazy.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:40am PT
Good one !

I know this is addressed to Hamish first, but I'll take a shot. In ascending order (haha):

- Brunser Overhang
- Perspective
- Sentry Box (regular and the stout direct)
- Left Side, Split Pillar.
- Second Pitch, Alaska Highway
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:51am PT
Right side of the pillar is pretty classic. :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 18, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Hahaha Hamish! The acronym O.G. Stands for original gangster! If you are unaware of that term however then I suppose your definition will do, thanks for the laughs!


bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Apr 18, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Sack it up for Merci Me bro

Bellygood in the rain without the chain

Hooking pitch on Humpty Dumpty
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 18, 2012 - 01:07am PT
Ohhhh Agonal, definitely fell off that one. You are right Bruce, may be the best pitch down there. Thanks for the responses OG's!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2012 - 01:43am PT
OG= Original Gangsters!!! Thanks for comin out!

edit I know ryand said it too.

Milk Run is sweet so is the Pillar (right) gotta do both in style this year. Agonal looks pretty awesome.

So does right wing! Looked down it last year after we did birds.
gf

climber
Apr 18, 2012 - 04:50am PT
Deano
Bring on the north walls shots!
Please...
then we'll hope to lure the young bucks into posting up what they've been up to there recently.
Re mtn biking -don't talk it up folks- MH has stated in his lawyerly fashion that he'd run us out of town and the horse we rode in on if we even think of doing this bastard child of outdoor recreation in a provincial park -opps sorry this last rant belongs on the gondola thread.
gf

climber
Apr 18, 2012 - 09:04am PT
Bruce, you are too right-clothes make the man, those were bad outfits then and they look bad now-but that said those n wall routes have stood the test of time and thats' one thing that never goes out of style.
Can't wait to hear about the paul cordy route -sounds killer-might be an incentive for a guest appearance?

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 18, 2012 - 09:07am PT
How can you have a list of great Squamish must-dos that does not include a slab route?

I don't know which one you'd choose, but surely there should be one.

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