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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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It would be a "problem" if you popped off on the crux and hit the "boulder" at the base. :)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.
Sometime in late 1960s, somebody (sorry, can't remember) and I started up one of the dihedrals near Western Dihedral. We got, oh, 3 pitches up it. Rain came and we never went back. That was to be TCN. Is it possible that it's now Freeway? (I have trouble keeping the routes there straight in my mind)?
Did anyone ever find any old slings, pins, maybe ropes in that area?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Did Tantalus crack last summer & have not been so stoked to onsight a 10a in a while.........a wee bit harder than say the first pitch of exasperator that one is.
An epic pitch.
My guidebook calls wild turkey 11a? Have to check that one out this summer.
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MH2
climber
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I've posted a similar picture before, but here is a look at Tantalus/Yosemite crack.
Also Left Side of Yosemite Pinnacle!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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MH2 Nice shot of YPLS. If anyone is heading up there this year, please take a small folding saw, and remove the three scraggly trees which are visible. They are new, and spoil the profile.
Jim. Glad to hear that you enjoyed YPLS so much. Definitely a fun climb.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, nice photos - although Tom Evans might have something to say about the climber's (lack of) bright coloured clothing!
I once saw Steve Sutton lead Yosemite Pinnacle in about ten minutes, with his only protection fairly low down. It was quite something.
Didn't Fred et al, on the FA, climb cracks to the right, and pendulum in? Something like that, anyway - must look it up.
IIRC, Freeway starts up the first bit of Getting Down in the Brown, or just right of it, and branches off within a pitch or two. The next big corner to the left is Western Dihedral, and the next one is Illusion, which ends at Trichome Ledge, where Clean Corner begins. Even Scrubber might think twice about cleaning some of those out.
And yes, YPLS is something of a workout.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Tricouni- Is it possible that it is deadend dihedral that you speak of? left of western dihedral?
Hamie- What can you tell us about your expedition of crap crags BITGOD? I am making a point of doing "Europa" this season so I can see what the deal is for myself.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Big Mike, Yes, it's definitely possible, perhaps very likely. I'm pretty sure it's left of Western Dihedral. Big, obvious left-facing corner, dirty at the bottom, then getting clean. Next time I'm up there I'll have a look.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm pretty sure it's left of Western Dihedral. Big, obvious left-facing corner, dirty at the bottom, then getting clean.
I went up there once with Steve Loomer. I won the toss and led the first pitch of whichever of those dihedrals we wound up at the base of. It was a decent day, but it had been raining in the days before, and what I had to dig out of the crack for every placement was muddy and gross, and every single piece of it rained down directly on Loomer. He'd worn whites that day, but they didn't stay white for long, and he required that we bail once he cleaned the pitch.
No idea which of the dihedrals it was, but I'm sure it's a cool free climb now.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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No idea which of the dihedrals it was, but I'm sure it's a cool free climb now.
You didn't find any old, old gear, did you?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Re Freeway,
I had imagined this line for some time and had probably convinced more than a few people to look at it through binos before it's first ascent. We did a lot of that back then and some of us still do.
I had been hanging out in California with George Manson, Tom Gibson, Greg Cameron Rob Rohn and their peripheral orbiters prior to them showing up in Squamish. Tom and Rob were keen on something new and I suggested the line that eventually became Freeway. They invited me along but I think I was busy at the time with a budding romance and a cool line on the Sheriff's Badge. Tom and Rob persevered and climbed the route pretty much as imagined and used some 80' of aid. Dean and Randy (Tall Guys in Tights or Northern Lights?) later set to work and eliminated and bypassed the aid and the result was an enduring classic.
George, Tom, Greg and Rob brought incredible new energy to Squamish and inspired many of us to start looking at the free potential on big steep lines regarded primarily as aid climbs. They climbed the Merci Me connection to the base of the Pillar with some aid and convinced me it would go free with a few pins and a couple bolts, so I did. Greg established an entirely new paradigm with his on sight ropeless first free ascent of Pipeline (aka Pipeloads).
Beyond being one of the finest routes in the known universe, I suggest Freeway is important in that it was one of the first big walls in Squamish to be approached as a free route on the first ascent. It represents a pivotal time in Squamish climbing history and credit must be given to the late great General George Manson and his crew for their inspiring efforts.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Chief- Thanks for that. Nice work on convincing Greg to go solo pipeloads :)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Big Mike,
Can't take any credit for suggesting that the Grug from Cameroon solo Pipeline!
I distinctly remember blowing hootch with him later that day and his sheepish admission to us as to what he'd done.
We were flabbergasted and completely agog at the mere thought.
Inconceivable!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2012 - 02:42am PT
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Perry was the one who talked up Pipeline. He had known about my Lost Arrow Chimney solo. I remember him showing us the climb from still some distance away the evening before I climbed it. I can't remember much else but setting out the next morning by myself and doing it. Those sawed-off pipes were plentiful (at least 4 of them), and I vaguely remember having a hard time getting around at least one of them.
Perry had suggested the FFA name be called Pipeloads. I sort of agreed, but apparently nothing came of it. I had no idea that this climb would become a classic.
Chief- Re-reading this, I guess you are right but it certainly seems like you inspired him to climb it.
Maybe Glenn can tell us a tale from the FA?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The latest mind blowing paradigm shift in Squamish climbing in my opinion was Alex Honnold's free solo of the Northern Lights. I think I had the same reaction you had to Grug when I heard that. Oh ya, and Freeway... He soloed that too.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Big Mike Not a lot to say about the FA of Crap Crags/Europa. The climb was Dick's idea, and beforehand I had no idea where it went or how long it was etc. For some perspective, it was the 17th or 18th route at Sq, and after the Grand it was only the second 'full height' route which did not follow a gully or buttress.
Some days it is better to be lucky than good. We did the climb in February, when the days are short. We had no bivvy gear, no flashlights and only a single 120' rope. It's said that if you carry the Ten Essentials, then you will definitely need them all. If the climb had not 'gone' we were truly fooked! Our only hope of staying warm would have been to set one of the ledges on fire. Dick would have liked that. Me too.
Jeff Mottershead and his friends did an incredible amount of work, and I'm still not sure how it all turned out. He is now a friend of mine, and we have climbed together at Waterline. I do not believe in re-naming a climb under any circumstances, but of course in 1962 we had no idea that Sq would become a world famous destination. Apparently KM was a factor in changing the name to Europa. If it had been up to me, I would have chosen a new name which reflected on the local population, such as 'Warrior' or 'Shaman'.
I have been thinking about a 50th anniversary ascent with Jeff, but am prolly too lazy to drive to the coast. I'll be very interested to hear what you think, and expect to see LOTS of photos.
EDIT Tried to upload a photo, but the link is broken tonight. Will try again tomorrow.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Thanks for the story on Freeway Perry. Good stuff all around here :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I guess Pipeline would be another mandatory tick on the road to being a 5.10 climber??
Awesome photos MH2!
Europa was an ok route, definitely not the "easiest" full height route on the chief as it was supposed to be but it had some decent climbing on a few sections. It seemed like in some spots they had removed vegetation that was at least a few feet deep! Maybe a bit too ambitious of a cleaning project IMO but it's clean enough to climb for the moment so get up there before the mud grows back.
Hey Luke i haven't been on here much this week but i just saw that lil slide edit of you & Henkel, pretty cool & funny coincidence how you boys all met, we'll all have to go craggin soon when his shoulder & the weather is better.
Enjoy the sun today everyone, i'm off to pet wall to get my ass kicked as per usual!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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BK,
I think you have the story pretty much right.
George and three others literally disappeared on their way to the Cassin and their bodies never found. George was a great climber, force of nature and a natural leader and it was hard to avoid being caught up in whatever he thought was important.
I found this excerpt from a piece on Bon Echo.
"George Manson was a charismatic and powerful figure" and "the leader of a new generation"
"In July of 1980, Manson and three companions, Al Chase, Sean Lewis and Dave Caroll disappeared on Mount McKinley while climbing the Cassin Ridge. It had tremendous repercussions for the Toronto climbing community."
Respect
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