New belay device?: Climbing Technology Alpine Up

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Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic
Banquo

climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:41am PT
Video here:

http://vimeo.com/26650084

Anybody try one of these? Looks like it works well but it looks too big, too heavy and perhaps too complex.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Aug 10, 2011 - 01:49am PT
Link is broken.
jfs

Trad climber
Upper Leftish
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Uhhhh...... a little more K.I.S.S. please...?

I'll stick with my ATC Guide and Reverso. Both do everything that this thing appears to do.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:12am PT
No jfs, that thing makes you lunch at belays. Does your ATC do that?








You just need to find an outlet.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:30am PT
interesting
GrahamJ

climber
In the rain
Aug 10, 2011 - 04:49am PT
The auto-locking rappel feature is pretty cool.
JoeSimo

Trad climber
New York
Aug 10, 2011 - 07:24am PT
anyone seen this thing yet?

http://vimeo.com/26088030
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 10, 2011 - 09:49am PT
Needs more chrome and flash.

















One mans opinion.
















Ain't worth shit:-) Looks sort of like this:
Anyone know why Hewbolts never sold well?
Banquo

climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 11:36am PT
This one seems doofy

http://www.thegearcaster.com/the_gearcaster/2011/07/climbing-shorts-with-built-in-harness.html
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Aug 10, 2011 - 11:47am PT
K- man that's the biggest problem with new climbers ------ they don't seem to know that you need to set up belay stations at the electric outlet. It isn't like the old days when you had to bring a generator along.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Looks intriguing - grigri and reverso in one.

Don't know about the rest of you, but I don't like bringing both a grigri and a tube style rap device on climbs, like on HD Reg.

Wanted the grigri for short-fixing and aid belays, wanted the atc for double rope rapping in case of wx.

I know there are ways to work around either problem and bring only one device - shortfix on cloves; rap one strand with the grigri and use a pull cord - but the piece in the vid seems to bundle it all up in one.

Not sure if it'd match up to the grigri in a self-belay scenario, though... I like how the grigri is closed up tight, nothing to wedge between the ropes and the device.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
As far as climbing is concerned, I think K.I.S.S. pretty much disappeared 30 years ago or so. A rack of nuts and stoppers, a swami belt, the rope for achoring, hips for belaying and carabiner brakes for rapping---that was simple. After that, nah, not so much.

Gri-gri's seem to be pretty universally accepted by now, so why get one's polypropylene-with-embedded-silver-fiber undies in a twist over a gadget that provides a locking belay for twin and half ropes?

A skilled and attentive belayer is a wonderful thing. Any device that can mitigate the effects of deficits in either of those qualities is at least worth a look, in my opinion.
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Aug 10, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
I still use a Sticht plate with 2 eleven mm holes and no spring, but I have to say this thing looks like the bomb! I'd love to try one out.

nick danger
Climberg

Sport climber
Italy
Aug 30, 2011 - 02:41am PT
About this new belay device from Climbing Technology I found the official video:

http://www.youtube.com/user/ClimbingTechnology#p/u/0/r_HjAFtgQME

and more detail on the web site of CT :

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/en-US/alpine-up/details.html

For me it's a great news on the market, because you can do all you want with it, sport climbing route, trad route, autolocking abseil etc.
Once I can by one here in Italy I'll post you the test.
Bobert

Trad climber
boulder, Colorado
Aug 30, 2011 - 11:35am PT
I'd be careful with that thing. I saw something similar on Battlestar Galactica that developed consciousness and started killing people.
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 30, 2011 - 11:47am PT
Its a double rope version of the Click Up http://www.campsaver.com/click-up
Which was a single rope similar to the WC SRC http://storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/MiscBelayPages/MiscBelay659.html

And Mammut came out with the Smart and Alpine Smart recently. I'm sure there are more, just going with what I remember seeing.

All various versions of the same concept, it seems. I have the single rope Mammut Smart and it works great for top roping belays, only so-so for lead belays as it doesn't give slack quickly enough for clipping.

My ATC-guide is the only thing that comes on multi-pitch, though.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 30, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
more IDIOT shyt to further attempt to ROB and DUMB DOWN climbers...

Ah, Ron... I can just picture how you must equip yourself for climbing. Roughly woven wool clothes (or maybe animal skins you tanned yourself), leather sandals, hemp rope that you wove from plants you grew yourself, a few pebbles in your pocket to use as artificial chockstones...

I'll start taking your rants about modern climbers being wusses seriously when I see you giving up your nylon rope. Which, it seems to me, is a whole lot more hi-tech than some metal doodad. And which did more to allow climbers to climb beyond their ability than any of the "IDIOT shyt" you get so exercised about.

(Same for nylon tents, Gore-tex clothing, and sticky rubber)
apogee

climber
Aug 30, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Another silly gadget likely to be relegated to the heap of over-engineered, useless tools. Simple, elegant designs solve problems...complex gadgetry fails.
Ry/Ry

Big Wall climber
Colorado
Apr 18, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
I have both the click up and the alpine up. While at first appearing complicated they are both very easy to use and there is no way you can insert the rope backwards as the devices will work both ways with a safe amount of friction unlike the gri gri and others.

The device has two modes:1 Regular belay where you must have your hand on the brake and the device has minimal friction. 2 the device is in the locked position. The belayer could let go of the brake to perform duties.

When you lock off hard or the leader falls you will see the device slip into its lock position, also an audible click confirms your in the braked position, you can belay lead with the locked mode on but it requires some teqnike like a gri gri. Otherwise unlock and belay as normal.

You may use two ropes from 8mm up to 11mm, belay two people at once much easier than any guide device from BD or PETZL. Rappelling and lowering is simple and secure even with the rope in the device backwards. THE BEST PART OF ALL IS THIS DEVICE TAKES OUT ROPE TWISTS LIKE AN ATC DOES. The SMART, and many other "assisted auto lock" devices twist the rope badly like a figure 8 does.

with a carabiner It weighs less than a gri gri sans carabiner. The way it is engineered the alpine up will never wear out from normal rope wear, but after some years you will burn threw a carabiner.
(I rap with a 7mm retrieval cord and a 9.8mm lead line threw the device at the same time, The device handles both ropes at the same time easily)
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Apr 18, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Interesting - first and only pitch...errr post.

Ry/ry said
"I have both the click up and the alpine up. While at first appearing complicated they are both very easy to use and there is no way you can insert the rope backwards as the devices will work both ways with a safe amount of friction unlike the gri gri and others.

The device has two modes:1 Regular belay where you must have your hand on the brake and the device has minimal friction. 2 the device is in the locked position. The belayer could let go of the brake to perform duties.

When you lock off hard or the leader falls you will see the device slip into its lock position, also an audible click confirms your in the braked position, you can belay lead with the locked mode on but it requires some teqnike like a gri gri. Otherwise unlock and belay as normal.

You may use two ropes from 8mm up to 11mm, belay two people at once much easier than any guide device from BD or PETZL. Rappelling and lowering is simple and secure even with the rope in the device backwards. THE BEST PART OF ALL IS THIS DEVICE TAKES OUT ROPE TWISTS LIKE AN ATC DOES. The SMART, and many other "assisted auto lock" devices twist the rope badly like a figure 8 does.

with a carabiner It weighs less than a gri gri sans carabiner. The way it is engineered the alpine up will never wear out from normal rope wear, but after some years you will burn threw a carabiner.
(I rap with a 7mm retrieval cord and a 9.8mm lead line threw the device at the same time, The device handles both ropes at the same time easily) "
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 19, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
Mari brought one home yesterday, and I was doing my best to refrain from sarcastic comments.

Then, while she was busy in the kitchen, I sneaked into my harness and, with a dining-room chair as a lead climber, started experimenting.

The thing rocks.

Okay, I haven't actually used it on a 53-pitch Himalayan first ascent in the winter, but it is everything one could want in a belay device. Offers both ATC- or tube-style simplicity, as well as autolocking safety, belay-off-the-anchor for two separate followers, and both ATC and autolocking rappel capability.

And, unlike a gri-gri, will work with two ropes from skinny to fat.

I'm gonna get me one this weekend.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jun 19, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
I've used one for more than two years, probably since they first came out in the US. In my opinion, it is the best thing available for belaying on half ropes, where one wants some ability to manage two strands independently. I use mine almost exclusively with 8.5mm Mammut Genesis halves. For halves it is better than the Mammut Alpine Smart and the Edelrid Megajul. There's nothing complicated about it, it just looks scary. It works like an ATC, except with assisted braking. A Grigri is more complicated and far less natural to use as well.

The main downsides are bulk, weight---it is comparable to a Grigri in those departments but of course is more functional for rappelling---and price.

I don't believe the proclaimed rope range, but I don't believe it for any of the devices out there. The middle 2/3 of the claimed range is probably a better estimate of utility, with friction problems at the small end and handling problems at the large end. I suspect that for good handling with single ropes you want to have diameters less than 10mm.

Jim Titt has done some pull tests that suggest the device can strip the sheath. I have neither read, heard, nor experienced any sign of this in the field (I know a handful of users) but it is something to think about.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Dec 13, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
I'd like to hear more experiences with this device though rgold's word was good enough for me to go ahead and order this device today.

Mei's thread got me started looking at this device.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3038217/Would-you-switch-to-autolock-belay-device-for-your-partner

Will report back with my own experience, hopefully soon.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 14, 2017 - 05:16am PT
At this point I've used mine for more than five years, from cragging to longer routes in the Tetons (but always with 8.5mm half ropes).

My earlier opinion stands; it is the best device for half ropes. The UKC site recently reviewed a bunch of assisted-braking gadgets (including the Gri gri) and concluded that the Click Up is the best of the lot for single ropes.

Rappelling isn't perfect in the auto stop mode; in some situations there is a bit too much friction at the start of a rappel and the rope has to be fed into the device; somewhere in midpitch (depending on the layout of the rappel) the device feeds by itself. I also have the feeling that the ropes are twisted a bit more than they would be with an ATC. CT has a work-around to keep the auto stop feature but promote easier feeding, but when I do this I get even more twisting and so don't use that method. I do like the auto stop feature however. It is very convenient and eliminates the need for rigging a prusik backup.

These downsides might be more pronounced with thicker ropes. I doubt anyone would be happy with ropes bigger than 10mm.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Dec 19, 2017 - 10:10am PT
To someone who climbs with half ropes and is looking for an auto block belay device (I think you should and here is why), I have one for sale.

I received my new Climbing Technology Alpine Up (biner included) yesterday in the mail. Did lead belay with it for about 6 laps in the gym this morning. I do like the ATC-like rope feeding motion and its reliable auto block mechanism just like the Click-Up, as well as its versatility, which is better than Click-Up. However, there is noticeably more friction when feeding a regular worn single rope through, esp. in lowering mode with the gym's fat rope. I know I will not be climbing on half ropes any time soon, and the ropes I climb on will rarely be 9mm or less and will rarely be new. For that reason, I think I'll stick with Click-Up for the optimal belay experience.

I have an Edelrid Mega Jul and I just watched the video on Mammut Smart. Both also offer auto blocking assistance for half ropes and are versatile. However, I wouldn't recommend either because they require a thumb be in the thumb loop to lift up the device for fast payout of rope. In my mind, that is a very bad idea for many reasons.

Contact me (on Mountain Project) if you can put it to good use. $75 shipped (2 day USPS Priority mail).
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 19, 2017 - 10:41am PT
I tried my Alpine Up on fat fuzzy gym ropes and didn't even last through one session before switching back to an ATC. But once you are on sub-10mm ropes I think it is fine.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Dec 19, 2017 - 11:48am PT
REVo dude. The Jewel IS CRAP.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Dec 19, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
I've been looking into Revo- please elaborate.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 19, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
It barely come out and its already being recalled.

The final certification process highlighted the need for a design modification to guarantee the REVO’s performance across the widest possible spectrum of rope diameters and whilst we regret that this will delay its release, ultimately we are pleased to be working with a certification body that has helped us to realise our ambition of producing the safest belay device on the market. Wild Country will begin production of the REVO with a new supplier that specialises in precision manufacture to deliver an exceptionally high level of finish to our new innovation. We now aim to deliver the REVO for resale to commence in the winter of this year and rather than committing to a new date we will confirm a new timeline once manufacture is confirmed.

Something I don't get: it has been released, there are people that have them, but "the final certification process" has yet to be completed. Huh?

The fact of the matter is that we are all guinea pigs for new climbing technology; the manufacturers don't have the resources to really test the things out. For this reason, I wouldn't be in any kind of hurry to be one of the early adopters.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
Rgold, where are you finding the recall?
http://www.wildcountry.com/en/product-recalls
I have one and have used it a bit and really like it. Some are complaining about the locking mechanism coming unlocked during use but that doesn't effect function as the locking biner holds the device shut anyway. As I have mentioned in other forums i would bet that future versions of the repo will not have a locking mechanism as it's really just redundant and not needed.
As far as use goes it feeds way faster and smoother than a Grigri. I think for dragging it will be my go to device but for walls or long multi pith the Grigri still has a place. For big wall soloing or any type of solo roped climbing I think the Revo can't be beat as far as smoothness, it blows away my Silent Partner. As always, use back up knots.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
we are all guinea pigs for new climbing technology

That's certainly the case when we turn from simple devices and self-reliance and abdicate personal responsibility to complex mechanical devices.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
I don't think it was recalled, I think rgold's post related to a delay in the release date issued several months ago. It may be that the device has since been released. I'm not positive so don't count on my recollection!
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
for walls or long multi pith the Grigri still has a place
I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace? For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:53pm PT
Healyj, how does using a Grigri or Revo take away from self reliance and personal responsibility ? Should we all be walking or riding bikes everywhere because cars are complex and not simple tools? I don't follow your logic though I think I see what you are trying to say.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 19, 2017 - 02:58pm PT
If that wasn't entirely self-explanatory I'm not sure I'd be of any further assistance in clarifying it.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace. For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.

I don't know about the Click up. If you are comfortable with the Click Up then i would stay with it. I was comparing the Revo to the Grigri and I still feel the Grigri offers more flexibility of use over the Revo on walls or multi pitch. Not to mention the Revo is heavier though not by much. I feel the Grigri is better for big walls because it locks up at faster or easier if you are sitting at a belay for hours on end and your partner takes a whipper while you are making a sandwich or taking a leak. Not saying the Revo won't but it seems like more rope would feed out before it will lock up.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
Okay, thanks for the explanation! It's good to know because I was intrigued to check out a Revo someday when it gets on the market, but I'm not interested in it any more after reading your post.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:06pm PT
If that wasn't entirely self-explanatory I'm not sure I'd be of any further assistance in clarifying it
Don't get crossed eyed from staring down your nose.
I get it, I am a crusty old climber too who started out with a hip belay and still use the hip belay from time to time but I do see a place for these new devices just like I see a place for cams over nuts in many cases.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:14pm PT
I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace? For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.


I'm guessing you may not understand how to do the "new" Grigri quick-feed?
I could see not liking a Grigri if you try to use it like an ATC.
But once you learn to quick feed and use it like most dedicated, experienced sport climbers do (which is to pretty much stand there and throw out rope with the quick-feed), life is good.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
I'm not staring down my nose, but rather at the fact such devices breed incompetence on a mass scale, but carry on...
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Dec 19, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
I'm guessing you may not understand how to do the "new" Grigri quick-feed?
I could see not liking a Grigri if you try to use it like an ATC.
But once you learn to quick feed and use it like most dedicated, experienced sport climbers do (which is to pretty much stand there and throw out rope with the quick-feed), life is good.

I wrote following in the other thread:

No doubt Grigri (now version 2 and soon version Plus) is the MOST popular auto-lock (they call it assist braking) device. To anyone who claim that Grigri equals short roping or even dropping, please allow me to be blunt — open up your mind and be humble. If you don’t learn the skills, Grigri can be everything bad; but if you are willing to spend the time to master the skills, Grigri can provide the best belay experience a leader can ask for. That said, there are a few things I don’t like about it (in comparison with what we have available today):
1) Heavy
2) Moving parts on the device.
3) This is the last straw for me: I find that the bend to the side (required for fast rope payout) might ever slightly introduce a little twist into the rope when feeding through. The effect becomes prominent on full 80m rope cragging, where at the end of the lowering, I have to constantly shake out the kinks.
4) Designed for right handed people (don't matter to me, but I know people who have trouble with it).

This is where Click-Up would shine. Light (My BD ATC Guide 88g; ClickUp 120g, Grigri 2 185g), no moving parts, feeds just like an ATC, and rope goes straight in and out, also works the same whichever hand you prefer for braking. Watch the video on this excellent review piece: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3498

I prefer the feeding motion of both hands with an ATC like device, although I have no problem with Grigri. Simply sharing my great experience with a device that has not caught on in the US. Click-up (made in Italy) has been around for many years and is more popular in Europe from what I heard.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 19, 2017 - 04:13pm PT
I'm not staring down my nose, but rather at the fact such devices breed incompetence on a mass scale,

Yeah, like that rgold guy. Totally incompetent. I hear he was a dependable partner back in the day, but ever since he started using that new-fangled Alpine Up thing, he's become dangerous to rope up with...

Not.

Which is not to say that reliance on a device -- any device -- instead of your brain doesn't lead to danger, but that's a function of the operator, not the device. People who are incompetent with a gri-gri would probably be incompetent with an ATC, or a munter, or a hip belay.

And I'll bet you don't use a hip belay for belaying and a body-wrap for rappelling, right? And hemp ropes. And rough woolen clothing. And leather sandals...

People who complain about new equipment remind me of the old story about Winston Churchill...

“Churchill: "Madam, would you sleep with me for five million pounds?"

Socialite: "My goodness, Mr. Churchill... Well, I suppose... "

Churchill: "Would you sleep with me for five pounds?"

Socialite: "Mr. Churchill, what kind of woman do you think I am?!"

Churchill: "Madam, we've already established that. Now we are haggling about the price”

If you're dumping on the latest generation of climbing technology, but using technology from the previous generation...
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 19, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
Rgold, where are you finding the recall?

The notice I posted was from a post by Jim Titt on MP dated September 7 (I didn't notice that date). See https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113476026/wild-country-revo-now-available-for-preorder?page=4#ForumMessage-113561325

But, here is a notice from a shop in the UK https://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/wild-country-revo-belay-device#product-description

UPDATE 18/12/17: Wild Country have delayed the release of this until further notice. Not expected to be released before March 2018.

And, a batch which apparently only went to Canadian stores was actually recalled according to https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/7judy9/wild_country_revo_recall/:

I just got a call from MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-op) that they are recalling the Revo due to manufacturing issues.

The plastic clip that opens the device can fail under high-loads, and they have had several cases. They also said that it is limited to the batch Canada received.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Dec 19, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
As I understand it, the Revo was released for a short time however Wildcountry was dissatisfied with the rope diameter range. It has gone to a new manufacturer and should be re-released sometime this winter or early spring... I think.

I'm hoping it self feeds a little smoother than the Grigri for self belay however smooth self-feeding could result in a whole host of other issues. I definitely wouldn't rush out and take falls on it.

Correction- not self feeding- pulling slack at a stance.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
I'm hoping it self feeds a little smoother than the Grigri for self belay however smooth self-feeding could result in a whole host of other issues. I definitely wouldn't rush out and take falls on it.

Correction- not self feeding- pulling slack at a stance.

The Revo feeds way better than the Grigri and Silent Partner.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 19, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
People who are incompetent with a gri-gri would probably be incompetent with an ATC, or a munter, or a hip belay.

Except the latter three don't actively breed incompetence.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Dec 19, 2017 - 05:25pm PT
Batrock, walk away from these loony tunes.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 19, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
You are right Jeff, see you tomorrow.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Dec 20, 2017 - 07:57am PT

. . . that said, there are a few things I don’t like about it (in comparison with what we have available today):
1) Heavy
2) Moving parts on the device.
3) This is the last straw for me: I find that the bend to the side (required for fast rope payout) might ever slightly introduce a little twist into the rope when feeding through. The effect becomes prominent on full 80m rope cragging, where at the end of the lowering, I have to constantly shake out the kinks.
4) Designed for right handed people (don't matter to me, but I know people who have trouble with it). . . .

Good points, I can tell you know much more about Grigri than I guessed (as people I've seen not like them don't know how to do quick-feed).

Your point (3) is interesting: I've heard people claim Grigri twists rope; my rope often seems to get twisted whether I use Grigri or not (e.g., from lowering two horizontally spaced, poorly oriented rings), so I never know if the Grigri is to blame!
If so, that could be a good reason to use another device.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 20, 2017 - 08:25am PT
Yikes, and late to the party,

As Rgold has already covered , ymmv, The link has Macro pix of the flaw


https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113909841/wildcountry-revo-first-impressions
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Dec 20, 2017 - 10:07am PT
Except the latter three don't actively breed incompetence.

Agreed, the mis-percieved fail-safe nature breeds complacency. I've seen complete noobs handed a gri-gri, given about 2 minutes of "instruction" and left alone to belay someone with zero further oversight. I've never seen that occur with an ATC or similar.

Gri-gris are great devices, but they really should be for fully competent ATC users ONLY. Learn on an ATC, show competence and attentiveness for a year or two before moving on and only with instruction by someone competent.

I'd also like to see gyms have a some sort of policing on their mis-use, as it is way too common and never called out.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Dec 20, 2017 - 10:19am PT
I'm not staring down my nose, but rather at the fact such devices breed incompetence on a mass scale, but carry on...

Such devices don't do anything, let alone breed....they simply.. are...

That being said my partner's Alpine up of one kind or another has been catching my large self for about 3-4 years now. Slick product IMO.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Dec 20, 2017 - 11:42am PT
I've heard people claim Grigri twists rope; my rope often seems to get twisted whether I use Grigri or not (e.g., from lowering two horizontally spaced, poorly oriented rings), so I never know if the Grigri is to blame!
If so, that could be a good reason to use another device.
I actually never heard that before until I experienced it. When I used a Grigri and a Click-Up at the same crag with the same rope back to back, the difference was telling. Today, I was at the gym. While feeding out rope when my partner down climbed (on toprope, so feeding motion is similar to slow feed for lead belay), I meditated staring at the rope going through the Grigri. With the sheath pattern, it is not difficult to visualize the gradual twist (one round every few feet). That said, I'll continue to use my Grigri at the gym since the rope is short and it's easy to alternate the pull end so twists never stay or accumulate.
couchmaster

climber
Dec 20, 2017 - 11:55am PT
Rgolds spiffy discourse about the Click up over on Mountain Project convinced me I should buy myself one for Christmas. It's been wet and cold here so I haven't gotten it out, but it looks like it may be my preferred belay device for some climbs. NOT long multi-pitch say, but more like going over to Smith to catch friends dogging sport routes and perhaps toproping. I like how well it feeds out.

THANKS RICH!
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Dec 17, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
Bump for the Alpine Up/Click-up...

My main rock partner uses both and has had great success for a number of years.

Just about to order both and am bumping this thread for any other pros/cons or issues people have had.

Particularly if anyone has tried the alpine-up with frozen/gritty/nasty doubles.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 17, 2018 - 04:37pm PT

Supposedly the Bandai Tuttukibak works to take the place of many devices. Anyone tried one?
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