Tightrope- Clevenger and Carter's Apron Madness 1975

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Messages 41 - 58 of total 58 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 12, 2018 - 10:04pm PT
Another amazing Apron route of this caliber is Mouth to Perhaps. Big ripper potential on this one as well.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 12, 2018 - 11:10pm PT
I love Apron stories.


Cast off into the ocean of granite with not much more than a zen like focus to save you.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Feb 13, 2018 - 12:34am PT
It's only a two pitch route and I think it was only rated 5.9, but Flakey Foont was a pretty unique Apron climb. Only three bolts total for two pitches, mainly because the slab was just too smooth to stop and drill. So, you just shuffled upwards on time-delay smears. If you moved too slowly you just slid back down to the start. The higher up you went, the consequences of that slide became more and more painful. The technique became known as "foonting."

Several ST threads have discussed various aspects of this climb.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Feb 13, 2018 - 04:10am PT
Man. Flakey Foont was my very first route in the valley. Hello!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 13, 2018 - 08:21am PT
Flakey F. was never 5.9 in the old EBs. More like mid 5.10. And it felt like if you popped, you might go into a skid-tumble for MILES. I remember doing this with Kevin W. and thinking we were basically soloing the whole mo fo. An Apron classic because it was so improbable. Glass.

Other routes I liked over there were Green Monster, Calf with continuation (dime cranking on perfect rock), first 4 pitches of Hall of Mirrors, Mr. Natural, and Apron Jam. Always wanted to try and free Perhaps but never got round to it. We went to the Apron for rest days and never focused on it as prime real estate. First time I climbed Coonyard Pinnacle (in high school shod in PAs), I fell off it.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 13, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
> Green Monster
I don't recognize that Apron climb.
Has it been renamed?
What is it near?
Left of The Calf?

[edit:]
Thanks, henny - I bet he did mean Green Dragon.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 13, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
Not to speak for John, but maybe he meant Green Dragon?

Green Dragon makes for a nice outing when linked with Mr. Natural. Good variety combining the two.

Lucifer's Shoes is also a good link between Sailin' Shoes and Lucifer's Ledge. A little on the hard side but good.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Feb 13, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
Lucifer's Shoes
?

Is that a continuation off the top of the 4th pitch of "Sailin' Shoes"? Know there's something up there, but wasn't sure about where it went or how many pitches there were?
TLP

climber
Feb 13, 2018 - 11:20pm PT
...time-delay smears.

LOL!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Feb 14, 2018 - 01:48am PT
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Green Dragon
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase

pix overdue
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Always having fun!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 14, 2018 - 02:13am PT
Lucifer's Shoes Topo
Lucifer's Shoes Topo
Credit: henny
Roger and I replaced the bolts on this, and one formerly broken bolt on Sailin' Shoes a couple of years ago.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 14, 2018 - 09:12am PT
Yeah. Green Dragon. Felt like Suicide Rock.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Feb 14, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
Roger and I replaced the bolts on this, and one formerly broken bolt on Sailin' Shoes a couple of years ago.

Thanks Clint!

I remember looking up at what was to become "Lucifer's Shoes" in 1978 and realizing it was going to turn out to be 5.12 friction, forgetting about it. Good thing someone with Johnny's skill set tackled it.

That must be some route. Sailin' Shoes, Lucifer's Shoes, plus Lucifer's Ledge. There's a continuation too? Keep you on your toes for quite a while.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Feb 14, 2018 - 03:47pm PT
I am absolutely loving this thread! Happy Valentine's Day..
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 14, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
Historical and hysterical thread!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 14, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
Hey Clint/Roger,

Thanks for replacing the bolts on Lucifer's Shoes!

It was 5.12 friction. The third bolt gave us quite a fight. You were just far enough out that it seemed far enough given the difficulty. Took us a few hours to get it in. Several falls from the stance (haha) trying to get started. It became quite a chore having to do the crux over and over to work on the bolt. At one point JW became desperate enough to try hooking on friction. Right. Predictable result.

Funny how it is, once the hole started it went quickly. JW powered the rest of the pitch in one clean go drilling the remaining bolts and anchor, simply because he didn't want to do the start again. Great effort. Due to hand drilling he tweaked his shoulder in the process and it off/on bothered him for years. We still laugh about it. Sort of. [edit: just talked to JW, he says it still bothers him at times]

Fun route. Yeah, going to the top of Lucifer's Ledge makes it quite a few good pitches.

Edit(s):

Where was the broken bolt on SS? Now that Clint mentions it I vaguely remember something like a broken bolt. Or at least I think I do.

I did Green Dragon maybe 10(?) years ago and the first couple of bolts on P2 were gone. Didn't look like rock fall damage because they were broken slightly below flush to the rock. Any idea about what transpired with those bolts? I found it rather odd, almost had a chop aura to it.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 14, 2018 - 11:46pm PT
Darrell,

I found the details on the replacement in your older thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1837834/Lucifers-Shoes-Apron
Timeline:
 summer 2007: Roger and I fixed ropes down from Lucifer's Ledge. Then Roger replaced all the bolts he could find on reachable routes. (We also pulled many added bolts from Angel's Approach p1).
 after summer 2007: Kelly Rich led up Sailin' Shoes, psyched for the replacement. But he found that the second to last bolt on pitch 3 was missing. Fortunately he just did the moves anyway and finished the pitch.
 July 2012: Howie, James and I fixed ropes down from Lucifer's Ledge.
Roger then replaced all the bolts on Lucifer's Shoes except the first one.
 August 2012: I replaced the first bolt on Lucifer's Shoes, and the missing/broken bolt on Sailin' Shoes p3.

Jim Beyer has done some relatively recent FAs at the Apron, including one (Edge of Token) that is to the right of Sailin' Shoes and also reaches the start of Lucifer's Shoes.
He also did a very hard route that is right of Green Dragon and Scimitar.
His routes are on mountainproject; here is the hardest one:
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112200272/endless-war
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 15, 2018 - 07:31am PT
Thanks Clint.

I forgot you mentioned something in the previous thread and got a little lazy in not looking it up myself to check.

You are an amazing keeper/source of information.
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