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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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I have one of those hex nuts with extra holes in it, but I always called it a Colorado Nut, not a Clog. It is presently on display at the AZ Hiking Shack. Below shows Holubar 1969 Catalog which lists it as a Colorado Nut.
Rock on! Marty
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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Thanks everyone! Great thread. I love the old catalogs, and stories to match!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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Was Holubar one of the handful of Colorado Nut accounts in 1970-71?
Hopefully local will chime back in. No Clog hex that I ever saw commercially available was so drilled. I think Holubar might have been switching product lines at this time and glitched.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 31, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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When I came to Holubar in fall 1970, they still had some Clog hexes in stock (hence the catalog). As those were sold out, they were re-ordering from Colorado Nut Co. Since the NutCo guys were my friends, I encouraged this shift and told customers they were better.
Three selling points I recall were (1) the Colorado nuts used the same size hex stock as Clog but were cut slightly longer, so their long and short axes covered a larger range of sizes; (2) even the smallest Colorado nuts had tapered ends, which the early Clogs did not; and (3) Bill & Paul soon started polishing them, which gave a nice look -- I think there was a theory that would reduce wear on slings.
The I-beams were fun too. A crack had to be just right to fit a 3" or 4" I-beam, otherwise they inspired no confidence. But the 1.75" I-beam, which looked really odd, seemed to fit cracks like a super-sized MOAC.
Actually, selling nuts in 1970 was not so much this nut vs. that one, but nuts vs. pitons.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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Alpenbump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Holu-Bump...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
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First Bump in a long time...
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Hardshell
Trad climber
Ketchum Idaho
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I've got one in my climbing gear time capsule from 1965/66---classic old gear trip down memory lane.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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Scan and post the hardware pages if you would be so kind.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Page 6: Kronhofers!
Shoe choice of mine and others for early climbs (60's, 70's) at Tahquitz, Yosemite and Tuolumne. Still hard to believe the level of face climbing difficulty we did in these shoes, well into 5.10, at first with no modification to the wrinkle pattern soles. Later, we resoled with smooth neoprene, good for edging but very poor for friction. Another modification: a bit of epoxy between the welt and upper and covered with hardware store rubber cement to prevent the edge from rolling, and O heck a little on the toe for cracks. Some quite incredible self delusions got us up things.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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Cats Paw Rubber or Green Dot on the resole?
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Hardshell
Trad climber
Ketchum Idaho
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scan and post the hardware pages....?? will have to get back to you on that...my IT guy has gone to college.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2018 - 08:54pm PT
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I just found these two great gear pages from the 1954-55 catalog.
The right hand page shows some of the earliest pitons made by the blacksmith Bob Bruning that started working for the Holubars once they bought some property where he had been working. Bob used tool steel so these pitons were not the equivalent of the alloy pitons made by John Salathé but they are notable as early American made none the less. Bob Culp passed this information on to me.
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