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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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Klimmer! ding ding...you got it.Teotihuacan, Pyramid of the sun (made up name but that's what "they" call it).
I got busted by the police right after this photo...I was off route!
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
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With scorn? Naw, I hope not... But I remember being quite pissed at that somewhat greasy sloper that Darrell describes over left. The one JUST before you can grab the crimpers and can then step onto the stance where we placed the first bolt. Such good holds, in exactly the right places; a truly fine sequence problem.
...still vividly remember turning slightly counter-clockwise during the fall, to watch that I didn't snag the rope between the legs! (I did that once on Rebolting and I didn't want to endure those rope-burns on the legs again.) I do remember your eyes being somewhat saucer-like, once I righted myself. Damned if I'd let that pony throw me a second time!
Back on the stance, it did seem to take me a long time to drill and set that 1/4'' Rawl though. No point in doing another, what?, 40' or 50-footer again!
Later that evening, I discovered that I had two coin-sized bruises on my thigh precisely where two quarters--that had been in my pocket--got caught in the leg-loops of the Whillians harness.
So... Henny... You've dropped a few hints... Exactly WHEN did you guys repeat The Circus? (Hmmm. Long runouts at the Portal. Candlelight, maybe? No Pie ala Mode, perhaps? So, I'm guessing the early Nineties.) KP? Todd?
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
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Gramicci-
I have one or perhaps two of that old Wilts guide.
But I have a yet more rare publication and in fact it is stonemaster stuff to boot!
The first, and I do mean the first commercially available bouldering guide to southern california...
Can You Say who wrote it??
It's about 3" x 4 1/2", funny publisher name too.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Speaking of Largo on Covers... does someone have a pic of that hang and swing gag on Kong boulder?
Trees growing at a strange angle in the background.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 22, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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Robs, sooo you do remember the whipper on Rebolting. That was a nasty rope burn!
Ed, haven’t got a clue. Unless its Vogel? Gil D. didn’t write did he?
Top this, I have the One and Only copy of a guide Johnny Woodard wrote for me of a secret area we had. Gave it to me for my birthday one year.
I wonder if M. is coming back ?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 22, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
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AMAZING!!!!!!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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AWESOME!
thanks bvb! made me laugh just about as hard as the first time I saw it! Largo, just how hard did you push off? quite an accomplishment in itself!
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 03:09pm PT
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Gramicci: "Robs, sooo you do remember the whipper on Rebolting."
NOW I do, ya bastard! :o) I had actually forgotten (repressed) that fall, and this Stonemaster nostalgia fest has gone and dredged-up all this STUFF! (Actually, we should blame this all on Largo.)
Say, wanna go bouldering this weekend at Rubidoux?
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pc
climber
Eastside
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Feb 22, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
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I don't get it. Is it a slab tilted and he's pushing off?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 22, 2006 - 03:12pm PT
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Yes Bob!
Crash pads would've been AMAZINGLY worthless!
-To prevent the righteous rug burn hed've garnered from sliding down that slab had he missed the moe on that tilted gem of a pic!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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pc- count yourself among those who believes the largoenhanced version of reality, tilted 40 (corrected) degrees or so.
Largo has always been nothing but good fun to read if you do not take him too seriously...and he is indeed a great storyteller. He is fond of borrowing ideas though, everything from ideas for Doogie Howser scripts, to titles for books like "Art of Leading" I laugh as I write but really, that is not even remotely close to "Art of Climbing" is it?
My favorite Largo story, well other than two first ascents of the same route:
I go to see Charles at the then humble digs of 5.10 on Lankershim.
Largo shows me "the new fabric for climbing shoes" acting in word and deed as if it were propriatary fabric. He handed me a sample when I looked back and commented immediately, trampoline mesh! great idea to use it in shoes, it will breathe, conform and wear well... Largo... was speechless.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 04:03pm PT
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Yeah. Tilt-foolery™ that is. (I just tried tilting it 40° counter-clockwise, and it STILL looks vertical!) Fifty degrees looks pretty close...
Now, mind you, I'm claiming NO responsibility for this photo. But Photoshop is pretty useful for this kinda stuff.
So, JL, who snapped the shot?
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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More old stuff...like me
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
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I was writing 40 degrees and thought nahh, can't accuse him of that! whoa! thanks for fessing up! hence in my request for the pic, trees growing at odd angle!
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pc
climber
Eastside
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Feb 22, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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Funny stuff. I finally tilted my head and it all came clear ;)
Gives me some great ideas for "hero shots"
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 22, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
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We climbed Flying Circus in May of 1986.........20 years ago this May!!!!....and I don't know of any other ascents.......Hensel, Evans, Floyd, Fry, Gordon.............it was rad.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 22, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
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Mike,
you are correct, bingo, ladies and gentlemen Graham-micci is right again.
Only a lawyer would say that he couldn't say.
Mike, if you are a keeper of old guidebooks, you can have a bunch of mine... there is still a boxfull of old stuff from a bucnh of areas in wales and other wierdness sitting at the Harness Factory waiting for me to get the stuff out of there.
It might be 45 degrees.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 22, 2006 - 06:34pm PT
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books, sure I'll take them, I did a lot of climbing in Wales.
Robs, All this talk of Rubidoux has shredded my tips. I could maybe meet you sorta half way at stoney???
We should talk largo into it
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 22, 2006 - 06:59pm PT
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Robs,
I believe Brian Rennie was the shooter for a bunch of stuff in that Black Mtn Sequence which bvb propped up for us.
Probably the cover as well?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 22, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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every pic in "pumping granite" was shot by BR.
and bachar, i always thought this was one of the more defining pics of you. shitty scan, but it's a classic snap.
edit: if you want, i can photoshop out the rope. heh.
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