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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 5, 2003 - 12:36am PT
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I thought you Yosemite-types might get a kick outta this:
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 12:40am PT
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Here's where it came from:
http://www.tinyurl.com/6vpk
Hardman Knott
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Now that is a dynamic belay!
Go get 'em!
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Jay
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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You mean that's a belay? JL should include this example in the next edition of How to Look Like an Idiot. I'm not usually one to make fun of people, but these guys really do belong in the Special X-Games.
The only thing the guy on lead needs now is an ice axe. I mean damn, are those really screamers 2 feet off the ground? My God what a comedy scene! Let me guess; they were practicing a part for Vertical Limit 2 right?
The funniest part about is the clown on lead is like 265lbs, and from the looks of it 80% cheese. He might squeeze right through whatever webbing is holding him together... if he ever actually takes a fall.
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dillweed
climber
CA
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ok. I shouldn't have been so mean the first time, so now I can try the new editing feature. That is a funny photograph, but at least they are having fun outdoors.
(I still think the dynamic belay comment was totally funny though!)
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
prescott az
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 02:05pm PT
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Now now we have all made fools of ourselves in the past. Be Nice!
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Ammon McNeely
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 02:13pm PT
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Ok, at first I thought this pic was staged and actually laughed (sorry).
BUT, after examining it further and reading the posts, I had to reevaluate my opinion.
Hey, these guys are learning. I don't think they deserve to be publicly ridiculed on the net like this.
Since it's here, I think everyone should learn from this pic.
The dynamic belay, yes...... but guys, don't pick the most popular route in Indian Cove to practice aid.
Cheers, Ammon
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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I'm w/ Ammon on taking pity after you've had your laugh. Clearly they are just trying to get things figured out.
But, c'mon...If you can climb 10c, surely you can find a better place to climb than the Short wall in Indian Cove? It's like heading over to Lazy Bum/Bummer and getting urked that gumbies like me are TRing it.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 03:07pm PT
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Ammon wrote:
"BUT, after examining it further and reading the posts, I had to reevaluate my opinion.
Hey, these guys are learning. I don't think they deserve to be publicly ridiculed on the net like this."
A little perspective -- for those who might have missed it:
Crotch Robbins wrote: (on rec.climbing)
"And, yes, we've all been there, but hopefully we already had
the basics of belaying down, and we didn't take ourselves so seriously.
Several times I watched the smaller guy clip in to a high piece before
moving on to it, and thought he might appreciate some friendly advice
about not clipping until the piece is below you. His response "I
already tested it." I never saw the dude bounce more than an inch in
his steps, and most of the testing was done by yanking (wanking?) with
his hand"...
-----------------------------------------------
As I see it, (HK) the selfishness of hogging a 3-star 10c
fingercrack free-climb on a busy weekend *to practice aid*
seems ready-made to engender them to a less-than
favorable response, to say the least.
If they are not able see the humor of the situation, then I
sincerely worry for their future, and may God help them...
Hardman Knott
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steelmnkey
climber
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To me, practicing aid on Right V didn't seem so funny/scary as that belay setup. You can say what you want about most everything else in the photo, but even if they're just beginners, that is a useless belay, which should be one of the very first things they learned when they laced up boots for the first time. Assuming they've been roped free climbing for any stretch of time, I'm curious what's kept them alive to this point if they've been belaying like that? Sheesh!
Thought the Liebgott thing was pretty funny...
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Juniper
climber
Auberry, California
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What on earth? This is real? At first I didn't think it was so funny, but what are they thinking here??
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Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 04:38pm PT
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I wish I could find a picture of some kid on a bike w/ training wheels so that we could all ridicule the little brat for not being able to ride a bike (yet).
(what a little idiot- look at him smile like he thinks he's cool or something...)
I am of the opinion that posting pictures of other climbers on the web for the sole purpose of laughing at them is just as ridiculous as that belay (after all, would you want to be standing right under that guy?).
Maybe the belayer walked back there to get a water bottle or something out of the haul bag. It's only a 2-3 foot fall from there on to flat sandy ground, and who's to say that a good belay would keep him of the ground if his gear blew at that point anyway? And if the guy that originally put that up had mentioned something to them about clipping, you would think that the belay position had already come up... that shot almost has got to be out of context.
As far as learning the bold craft of aid climbing right there in front of the whole world, how is that any more or less considerate than 1)a group of outward bound climbers (or any other group) all toproping a series of climbs and thus taking over the cliff 2)some guy w/ his kids showing them how to belay or hand jamb 3)hang-dogging some popular sport route or single pitch valley classic on a busy weekend day. It's nothing you have never seen before, so what?
At least those guys are "climbing" outside.
And I'll bet those two climb more often than they post online.
Say- you'd better watch out Ammon- they might be asking if it's ok to pass before you know it!
=)
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
prescott az
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2003 - 08:00pm PT
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Lets move on from this folks. There are more interesting topics to write about when your bored sitting at home.
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hillsyde one
Mountain climber
not a place where i can climb @ this moment
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where in the hell did you get that damn picture of me anyways?!?!
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nathan
climber
SLT
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Matt Wrote:
>>I am of the opinion that posting pictures of other climbers on the web for the sole purpose of laughing at them is just as ridiculous as that belay
Tell that to those folks in "playball.avi". These days, you do stupid things in public, you takes yer chances.
>>Maybe the belayer walked back there to get a water bottle or something out of the haul bag.
No. They were in SoCal. He was obviously going for grapes.
Oh, and you don't teach a kid to ride a bicycle with training wheels. That's totally useless. And if you teach a kid to rap/belay ect., find a cliff out of the public eye so no one will call CPS when they hear you screaming. *Then* you can take Jr. to a real crag and not get in everybody's way.
These guys are my new wallpaper.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Bump
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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I think the old idea of passing a "catch" test by throwing a heavy sack off a cliff and having the person on belay catch the thing would set a lot of these people straight. Experience is a great teacher.
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couchmaster
climber
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Nice thread revival Kev:-) This classic belay photo was first posted in 2003 and still frontpage space available for comment. 19th post here. Lots more folks posting on ST now it appears.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Without changing the positions of where these 2 'climbers' are
standing and hanging what additions to their belay setup
would flip the situation from bad to a-ok?
First would be a anchor tether from the belayer to an SUV's trailer hitch parked right behind him.
We can't tell if the 1st pro on the wall will hold an upward
pull and if it will stay in place during all the jingy sh#t
happening as the 'climber' goes higher. So fix that also.
A chair for the belayer.
And of course #beer. And an ice chest. Several tall boy empties
scattered around on the ground. All good.
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