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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
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Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky 1971
There exists little doubt as to the remarkable contribution of Bob Kamps to the history and heritage of American climbing. Few individuals were as instrumental in pioneering the standards, ethics and style of our generation as Kamps. Bob purely and simply loved to climb. His ability to share this adventure with an untold number of partners over the years was a testament to his generosity and spirit. Simply put it was a joy to climb with Mr Kamps.
Between 1955 and 2005, when Bob passed away, he recorded no less than 3100 climbs. Concerning partners, it would probably be easier to list who didn’t climb with Bob.
When I think of Kamps, the names of Rearick, Powell and Higgins seem synonymous. With these partners Bob would achieve some of his greatest first ascents. Then again we can add Sacherer, Robbins, Fitchen, Pratt, Roper, Herbert and a slew of other well known pioneering souls.
Kamps was particularly fond of Fairview Dome. In 1962, He missed out on the FFA of the Regular Route when Mort haphazardly grabbed a pin. Kamps went on the establish the Great Pumpkin with Ivan Couch in July of 1969 and Lucky Streak with Higgins in July 1970. Both classic routes are illustrative of the traditional style and quality of climbing in that era. Couch and Higgins, both prodigies of Bob, excelled in difficult, high-angle face climbing.
The Great Pumpkin was one of Kamp’s favourite routes and he would climb it no less than 15 times over the ensuing years. The following is one of those ascents, probably the 2nd? when McClinsky, aka Russ McLean, and moi spent an enjoyable afternoon on the Pumpkin with Bob.
Record of Kamp’s ascents of the Great Pumpkin:
“Remembering Bob This August on the Great Pumpkin,” short note from Tom Higgins on Kamps from bobkamps.com which is an excellent site to peruse his climbs and partners over the years.
Bachar note on Great Pumpkin:
Kudos to Haan for all his help in cleaning up these old, moldy, water damaged rat turd infected slides. You get the idea.
Steve Grossman is distributing the wonderful DVD that Bonnie Kamps and Dave Rearick put together on the First Ascent of the Diamond on Long’s Peak in 1960. This is a classic that should be in eveyone’s collection.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1437198/Announcing-Longs-Peak-Diamond-FA-DVD-Kamps-Rearick-1960
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Mimi
climber
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That is some TR, guido.
Thanks to you too, Peter!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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More stellar schit from Guido !!
This is why you're my favorite pioneer, debaucherum, sailor, pirate, climber-dude. Keep it up Joe!!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Great post Guido.
GP is a really stellar route, Looks kind of unlikely from the ground, has some good-value runouts and has a nice mix of face climbing, cracks and flakes.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Wonderful reading and viewing this TR. Loved it! Susan
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Joe’s project to commence the resurrection of his monster image collection began modestly. There were only 300 slides at first, some of them even “half-size” ones shot with a sort-of spy camera sized unit. They pretty much looked horrible, most of them. After all it had been more than fifties years. He was plainly doubtful the task would result in much success and had already tendered the notion that storied youth was, in fact, lost as feared but still being as brave as he could be. He sent hi-res files to me via DVDs from New Zealand. They came in humble volleys.
But at least in the case of this batch last year, all but a couple images were made useful and in many instances completely normal. I loved the adventure and to work on historic climbing stuff was incredibly fun. And Joe and I go back more than four decades. I felt at times, no matter how deluded, that I was erasing the years and the wrinkles and all would be better soon! For me it was cathartic. Joe has a staggering amount more, too; some of it really stunning and worthy of publication. To see those however, you’ll have to beg!
Bonnie’s DVD that Steve Grossman is distributing it really really excellent. Extremely well made, kind, complete, and fascinating, I cannot recommend highly enough!! Very high quality work! Get one from Steve!!
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dr. Woo!
Nice.
Lets round up Russ and do it again this summer?!!
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Swami Jr.
Trad climber
Bath, NY
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thanks for this!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Guidos photos and Peter's Photoshopping - what a wonderful partnership!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Whoa, nice!
Now here's a route that don't take no fancy modern photo whiz-bang trickster-y, stilt-wobblin', wide-lenzin', tilt-skylinin', faux-flexin', Disney-Land-scapin'... Nope, here even butt shots manage to convey the epic quality of a Kamps line.
Just brush off the odd rat turd, stand back while Guido succinctly sets the long-ago stage (including Word from Mr. Long-Ago hisself), and let the Golden Light of memory shine on the Age of Kamps.
Thanks, Guido and Peter.
So cool!
...but I swear that so-called "McClinsky" dude is really one of the Furry Freak Brothers...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Guido: Thanks for more history and Peter: thanks for helping restore those old pics.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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a total bad ass was Kamps..
anyone who has climbed in the meadows needs to pay tribute to a master..
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Never done it. Looks cool.
Maybe this year.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Guido, man, your posts are the best.
Thanks, and keep it up- I look forward to more!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Immediate edit bump:
16 posts?
WTF?
We're talkin about Kamps!
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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even bachar seemed impressed when i told told him i soloed this. old school 5.8. probably one of the scariest things i ever did.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feck, I believe it!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Classic. Hard to believe that Kamps ever looked that, well...not young, just less gray. Still weird not seeing him out at Stoney these days.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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One of Flanders favorite rts. Typically done in his beater 5.10 approach shoes!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Another Great Post Guido! And thanks, Peter, for your help in bringing those images even more to life than they had!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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Great pictures.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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Reading Higgins recent contributions on rgold fine posting brought back fond memories of Mr Kamps.
So Bumpity, bumpity, bump bump...................
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Bumps all over the Great Pumpkin!!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Bump to compliment Ed's wonderful TR on the classic Pumpkin. It was one of Bob's all-time favorites. Kamps we miss you!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jun 10, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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Thanks for the "bump" Guido. I missed your original post.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 11, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Those photos so take me back to my early days, even though my early days weren't until the mid-70's!
Thanks again Guido, NEXT!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Guido, Bonnie Kamps turned me on to this thread. Look out for an email please. That is, if you are able to be mailed thru ST. I'll soon know. If not I can and maybe you will email me. I have a picture question.
Cheers and Joy, Lynne
Edit: Message sent, Guido.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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love the route...
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Sep 10, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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Got a tour of this classic line from my buddy Jay - bad ass face climber that he is. I was hopeful that maybe I could lead the upper pitches some day - I think I'll stick to crack climbing - there are some delicate 5.8+ moves on this route that are WAY past your last bolt - very scary - my hats off to you!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 11, 2015 - 10:00am PT
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I missed this the first time around.
Great stuff, Guido!
(Ed--wearing those Acopas, eh)?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 11, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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with a little help from my re-soling friends, the Acopa Legends live on... not sure how much longer, but I love them for Yosemite climbing
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Sep 11, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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Guido, that first photo you posted, of Kamps ascents of Great Pumpkin - is that a database he kept? How amazingly organized! What is the ID number on the far left in reference to?
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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Sep 11, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
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One of my all time TM/Kamps routes. Of the dozen or so times I have been on this exquisite route, I have never run into anyone on the line nor ever had to wait to rope up.
Can't say as much for that other route down the hill from this one that is at times, worse than the Hollywood Fwy at rush hour.
Thank god that the masses do not do .... old skool Kamps slab.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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Phylp
Here is a wonderful website on Mr Kamps that Bonnie keeps active.
All sorts of historical and hysterical info on Bob who left us with a staggering number of stellar routes to be enjoyed for eternity.
http://bobkamps.com
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 11, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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An excellent climb.
On my "go back again" list.
Very unnerving moves up high, well above a bolt. Just be solid on 5.9 slab and keep your head. Thought provoking.
Even my second didn't like it much.
Imagine Pywiack Dike Route but more runout on the crux (another excellent climb that doesn't get a waiting line these days). However the path on Great Pumpkin is more obvious. I still have my mental image of looking up from the bolt and working out the moves in advance. And that was a Long Time Ago.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 11, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
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Wonderful share Guido . . . great images too!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 10, 2016 - 06:47am PT
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I'd left hints for a my betters to bump this.
I couldn't pick between the great posts, but as a representation of the stoke conveyed :
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 5, 2011 - 10:27am PT
Whoa, nice!
Now here's a route that don't take no fancy modern photo whiz-bang trickster-y, stilt-wobblin', wide-lenzin', tilt-skylinin', faux-flexin', Disney-Land-scapin'... Nope, here even butt shots manage to convey the epic quality of a Kamps line.
Just brush off the odd rat turd, stand back while Guido succinctly sets the long-ago stage (including Word from Mr. Long-Ago hisself), and let the Golden Light of memory shine on the Age of Kamps.
Thanks, Guido and Peter.
So cool!
...but I swear that so-called "McClinsky" dude is really one of the Furry Freak Brothers...
Looking forward to a great Roctober, and a happy Halloween.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 10, 2016 - 07:04am PT
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Nice to see this up front. Just Yesterday I was telling Kamps stories to Moose and TWP up at Donner.
It's probably not that unusual but I first met Bob Kamps way up on the side of Fairview.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 10, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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as I said, love this route
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 10, 2016 - 11:47am PT
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Gots to check out the Kamps website.
Never knew the GP even existed.
Bravo, Peter. Great scrub job on those Guidofacts.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 11, 2016 - 02:49pm PT
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Thnx mfm,
Really !!?? Three! posts? I'm going to keep this on the front page. . .
Till the pump kins come home. . .yooks that'll be November 10th!?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 11, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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Few reasons to post here anymore but Mr. McClinsky is one. I've been so fortunate to have been invited to a couple of his slide shows here in Btown. An unknown badass legend is that one.........
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 12, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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Never did that route, and I LOVE the name!
Guido bump.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Oct 12, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
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Awesome thread. This is the stuff that makes ST such a great place to check out.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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May 29, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
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Thanks Guido for putting this back on the radar! Another one that is still on my to-do list (which is getting a bit moldy in this phase of life with few free weekends, but will be revived in a few years).
Bob's website now redirects to a Facebook page for him.
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